Herb Gravy for a Brined Turkey

Pan juices from a brined turkey are full of salt, so if you use them in a traditional gravy recipe, your gravy is likely to come out far too salty. This gravy, which is based on a plain turkey broth and just a small amount of pan juices, can be used for any dry- or wet-brined bird.
For more gravy recipes visit The Guide to Thanksgiving Dinner.

For the turkey broth

• 
  
  Turkey neck, gizzard, tail, and heart
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, cut into 2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 small carrot, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 celery stalk, cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  2 large sprigs each fresh thyme and parsley
  
  


• 
  
  10 black peppercorns
  
  

For the gravy

• 
  
  Drippings from a roasted brined turkey
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chopped fresh sage (save the stems)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme (save the stems)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Make the broth

Chop the turkey neck into 3 or 4 pieces with a cleaver. Chop the gizzard in half. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the neck, gizzard, tail, and heart (do not use the liver) along with the onion. Stir to coat with oil, cover, and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. The meat will begin releasing lots of juice.


Add 4 cups cold water and the carrot, celery, herbs, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cover, and reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Simmer until the broth is flavorful, 30 to 40 minutes. Strain the broth and set aside until the fat rises to the top. Skim off and discard the fat. Use the broth immediately or cool and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

Make the gravy

Heat the giblet broth until hot. Pour the drippings from the roasting pan into a heatproof measuring cup or fat separator. Allow the fat to rise to the top and then spoon 4 Tbs. back into the roasting pan. Separate and discard the remaining fat from the pan juices. Season the giblet broth with the pan juices, adding only enough to make the broth very flavorful but not too salty. If necessary, add water until you have 4 cups of liquid.


Place the roasting pan over two burners set on medium heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan and use a flat whisk or wooden spoon to combine it with the fat. Cook for about 2 minutes.


To keep lumps from forming in the gravy, slowly pour about 1/2 cup of the broth mixture into the pan while whisking vigorously to disperse the flour evenly into the liquid. The liquid should thicken quickly and get gluey. As soon as it thickens, add another 1/2 cup or so of broth while whisking. Repeat until the gravy starts looking more like a smooth sauce than glue. At this point, you can whisk in the remaining broth and bring the gravy to a simmer. Add the reserved herb stems and simmer for about 5minutes to develop the flavors. Strain the gravy through a medium sieve, add the sage, thyme, and lemon juice, and season to taste with pepper.

Jellied Cranberry-Orange Sauce

With delicate notes of orange and clove and a bright, sweet-tart cranberry flavor, this ruby-red sauce puts the canned stuff to shame.

• 
  
  12 oz. (3 cups) cranberries, rinsed and picked over
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3 strips orange zest (each 1/2 x 3 inches)
  
  


• 
  
  1 whole clove
  
  

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the ingredients with 1 cup of water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the berries are mostly broken down and the liquid has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

While it’s still hot, force the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula. Be sure to scrape the mixture from the bottom of the strainer. Whisk well and then transfer to a 2-cup bowl or mold. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap once cool.

To unmold, invert the bowl onto a small serving plate and shake it side to side until the sauce slips onto the plate.

Queen Bee Mojito

Camper English uses honey to flavor this combination of three classic cocktails in one glass: the Air Mail (rum, honey, citrus, and Champagne), the Champagne Cocktail, and the Mojito.
Look for the classic mojito recipe as well as dozens more classic cocktails on our Drinks & Entertaining page.

• 
  
  1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) honey syrup
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  4 large mint leaves; plus sprigs for garnish
  
  


• 
  
  1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) aged dark rum, such as Matusalem Classico or Cruzan Single Barrel
  
  


• 
  
  1 dash Angostura bitters
  
  


• 
  
  1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) chilled sparkling dry wine, such as Chandon California Brut Classic
  
  

Put the honey syrup, lime juice, and mint in a chilled cocktail shaker. Press (don’t pulverize) the mint with a muddler or wooden spoon until fragrant. Add the rum and bitters and fill the shaker with ice. Put the lid on the shaker and make sure you have a tight seal. Shake as hard as you can for about 10 seconds and then strain into a chilled small coupe. Add the sparkling wine and garnish with a mint sprig.

To make honey syrup

Combine equal parts of your favorite honey and boiling water and stir to dissolve. Let cool completely before using. Store in the refrigerator between uses for up to 1 month.

Easy Pizza Sauce

• 
  
  1 28-oz. can whole peeled plum tomatoes
  
  

Pulse the tomatoes in a food processor until almost smooth. Transfer to a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to maintain the simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until very thick and reduced to about 2 cups, about 40 minutes.

Pea Sauce with Fresh Mint

Fresh or frozen peas and fresh mint turn into a creamy (but cream-free) sauce for simply cooked meats. This sauce is especially good with grilled or roasted lamb chops, or flaky white fish.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped leek (white and some light-green parts, from 1/2 medium leek)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups fresh or frozen peas
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the leek and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Stir in the peas, return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until the peas are just tender, 2 to 3 minutes.


Pour the pea mixture into a blender. Add the mint and 3/4 tsp. salt and purée until smooth.


Drizzle each portion of sauce with some of the remaining olive oil upon serving. (The sauce may be made and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead.)

Creamy Corn Sauce

A simple purée of simmerd summer corn in broth makes for a creamy (but cream-free) sauce for meat, chicken, and fish. This sunny sauce is especially good with grilled chicken, salmon, or shellfish.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small yellow onion, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1 sprig fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups fresh corn kernels (from about 4 ears of corn)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Heat the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Stir in the wine, bring to a boil, and cook until the wine is reduced by about half, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the broth and thyme sprig and bring to a boil. Add the corn and simmer over medium-low heat until the corn is tender, about 15 minutes. Discard the thyme sprig.


Purée the corn mixture in a blender until smooth. Return the purée to the pan and stir in the butter, chopped thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and a pinch of pepper.

Raw Fresh Tomato Sauce

In this quick sauce, hot olive oil and salt are added to diced fresh tomatoes and herbs. Be sure to do this just before tossing with cooked pasta, since the scalding oil releases the flavor of the herbs, and the salt can draw too much liquid from the tomatoes if added too soon. A raw sauce is best paired with spaghetti or spaghettini; thicker, heavier pasta shapes are not a good match.  

• 
  
  3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Fine sea salt
  
  

Cut a 1/4-inch slice from the tops of the tomatoes. Peel the tomatoes with a vegetable peeler, using a zig-zag motion, halve them crosswise, and remove and discard the seeds. Cut the tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the basil and oregano.

Just before serving, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a 1-quart saucepan until shimmering hot (but not smoking); pour over the tomato mixture, add 2 tsp. salt, and mix well. Toss with cooked pasta and serve.

Duxelles

Duxelles is a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots, and sometimes herbs that is cooked slowly in butter until it becomes thick. The Duxelles here is used as a filling for Potato Pancakes (Latkes).

• 
  
  6 oz. white button mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and discarded, caps cleaned and thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Tip:

Mushrooms are 90% water; the long, slow cooking of duxelles will evaporate the water and concentrate the mushroom flavor. Save any leftover duxelles in the freezer—it’s great in omelets, stuffed under the skin of a roasted chicken, or stuffed in baby squash or cherry tomatoes.

Put the mushrooms and shallots in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Pulse until finely chopped. The mushrooms and shallots should be in about 1/8-inch pieces—don’t overprocess.

Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the mushroom mixture, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring. When the mushrooms begin to release their moisture, turn the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the duxelles look dry, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool.

Cooked Fresh Tomato Sauce

This sauce goes well with the smooth texture of spaghetti and penne. When I add something chunky to it, I pair it with fusilli or another shape with nooks and crannies.

• 
  
  3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  Fine sea salt
  
  

Peel the tomatoes and coarsely chop them.

Put 4 Tbs. of the olive oil, the parsley, and garlic in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When the garlic and parsley begin to sizzle, add the tomatoes and 1-3/4 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down and are thick and saucy, 35 to 70 minutes, depending on how much liquid the tomatoes release. Toss with cooked pasta and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil and serve.

The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months. When you’re ready to use it, reheat and toss with cooked pasta and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil.

Creamy Chile Sauce

Chipotle chiles pack some heat, but it’s tamed by sour cream.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup diced fresh poblano chile
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 tsp. minced chipotle in adobo
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup sour cream or crème fraîche
  
  

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, poblano, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to sizzle, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the heat down to low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, and cinnamon and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and let cool for a few minutes. Add the chipotle and process until smooth.

Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the lime juice and sour cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lime juice.

Fire-Roasted Pepper Relish

This recipe calls for both parsley and cilantro but feel free to use other herbs like sliced chives or chopped basil.

• 
  
  3 red or orange bell peppers
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup pitted Niçoise or Kalamata olives, halved
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, very roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh cilantro, very roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. capers, rinsed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. minced jalapeño or serrano
  
  


• 
  
  Finely grated zest of 1 lemon plus a squeeze of lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Prepare a hot gas or charcoal grill fire. Cut the tops and bottoms from the peppers and cut the peppers into 3 or 4 flat pieces, discarding the tops, seeds, and ribs. Grill the pepper sides and bottoms skin side down until blistered and charred all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Put the peppers in a bowl and cover with a plate. Let sit until cool enough to handle. Peel the charred skin and discard. Don’t be too concerned if flecks of skin remain attached. Cut the peppers into bite-size pieces or wide strips.

Put the pepper pieces in a medium bowl and add the remaining ingredients, stirring well and seasoning to taste with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Pickled Mushrooms with Garlic and Herbs

Use as many varieties of mushrooms as you can find for the best flavor and texture.

• 
  
  6 cups mixed mushrooms (such as maitake, enoki, oyster, cremini, shiitake, and royal trumpet), washed, trimmed, and if large, halved or separated into smaller sections
  
  


• 
  
  4 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  10 whole peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, slivered
  
  


• 
  
  1 small dried hot red chile (about 2 inches long)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Immerse a quart-size canning jar, lid, and band in the water and boil for 10 minutes to sterilize. With tongs, transfer to a clean dishtowel to drain.


Boil the mushrooms in the water until tender, 10 minutes. Drain and pack them into the jar along with the thyme sprigs.


In a small saucepan, bring the vinegar, oil, sugar, peppercorns, bay leaf, garlic, chile, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1/2 cup water to a boil over medium heat. Pour the mixture over the mushrooms until it reaches the top of the jar. Screw on the lid, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate for 3 days before using. The mushrooms will keep in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks.

Pickled Fennel with Mustard and Peppercorns

Tangy pickled fennel is a good match for fish and seafood. It’s also great with roasted lean meats like chicken and pork.

• 
  
  1/2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. whole black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  1 (1-lb.) fennel bulb, trimmed, cored, and thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Immerse two wide-mouth pint-size canning jars, lids, and bands in the water and boil for 10 minutes to sterilize. With tongs, transfer to a clean dishtowel to drain.


Toast the mustard seeds and peppercorns in a small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Grind to a medium-coarse texture in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Pack the fennel into the jars, layering it with the spice mixture.


In a medium saucepan, bring the vinegar, sugar, oil, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1/2 cup water to a boil over medium heat. Pour the liquid over the fennel until it reaches the top of the jars. Screw on the lids, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate for 3 days before using. The fennel will keep in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks.

Balsamic-Glazed Grilled Sweet Onions

Sweet, smoky, tangy, and herbal—a lot of flavors come together in this rustic dish.

• 
  
  2 lb. sweet onions (such as Vidalia, Walla Walla, Maui, or Texas Sweet)
  
  


• 
  
  Olive oil for grilling
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup balsamic vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed pink peppercorns (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  

Peel and trim the onions. Cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Insert a toothpick or poultry lacer horizontally halfway into each slice to hold the onion rings together.

Prepare a medium-low charcoal fire or heat a gas grill on medium low for 10 minutes. Brush the grill grate clean and wipe it with a paper towel dipped in oil. Brush both sides of the onion slices with olive oil and grill, covered, turning every 10 minutes, until very soft and well browned on the outside, 35 to 40 minutes total. (A little blackening is OK, but try not to char the onions.) Stack the onions on a large sheet of foil and wrap loosely. Set aside while you make the glaze.

Pour the balsamic vinegar into a small saucepan and add the thyme leaves, pink peppercorns (if using), and salt. Boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat until the vinegar has reduced to about 1/4 cup and has a syrupy texture, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool briefly and season to taste with salt, if necessary.

Transfer the onions to a dish. Remove the toothpicks and any extremely charred layers, if necessary. If the balsamic glaze has thickened, reheat it gently until pourable. Pour the glaze over the onions and brush to distribute it evenly. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Classic Pico de Gallo

Pico de gallo is a zesty Mexican salsa made with fresh tomatoes, onions, and chiles.

• 
  
  4 cups seeded and diced fresh tomatoes (3 large tomatoes)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup small-diced white or sweet onion (1 medium onion)
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 serrano chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Combine the tomatoes, onion, lime juice, serranos, cilantro, and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix well, cover, and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Season to taste with more salt if necessary. If not using right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days. Strain before using.

Spicy Mango Salsa

This tangy salsa’s heat comes from fiery habaneros, available in most supermarkets; if you can’t find them, go with jalapeños instead. When working with the chiles, it is a good idea to wear gloves, or wash your hands and knife thoroughly after touching them. The bright color and sweetness of the mango in the salsa isn’t overpowered by the onion and red pepper, which are quickly seared over high heat to mellow their flavor and texture. The salsa goes great with grilled chicken, steaks, or a full-flavored fish like salmon or tuna.

• 
  
  1/4 cup canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium red onion, finely diced (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1-1/4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 mangos (about 1-1/2 lbs.), pitted and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1 habanero (or 1 to 2 jalapeños), stemmed, seeded, and very finely diced (about 1 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  

Heat the oil in a medium (10-inch) skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion and red pepper; sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables just start to brown and soften a bit, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large plate to cool. Once cool, transfer to a medium bowl and toss with the mangos, cilantro, habanero, and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season the salsa with the remaining Tbs. of lime juice and salt if needed, and serve.

Tangy Rosemary and Tomato Sauce

Fresh rosemary adds its piny perfume to this intensely flavored tomato sauce.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup minced shallot
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup minced carrot
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup minced celery
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sherry vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 cups unsalted or lower-salt beef stock or broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 2 Tbs. cool water
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup drained capers, rinsed and chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Heat the oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, carrot, celery, and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are beginning to brown around the edges, about 6 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium low, add the tomato paste, and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste has thickened and is a few shades darker, another 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar, turn the heat up to high, and boil gently until thick again, about 4 minutes. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce. Add the stock and the rosemary, bring to a boil, and boil gently until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups, about 25 minutes.

Whisk in half of the cornstarch slurry and simmer, whisking, for a minute. For a thicker sauce, whisk in a bit more of the slurry; if the sauce is too thick, add a little more stock. (If making the sauce ahead, take it off the heat, let cool, and refrigerate for up to 1 day; reheat gently.) Whisk in the capers, parsley, and butter until incorporated and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cucumber & Yogurt Sauce

This flavor-packed sauce is the perfect condiment for the Middle Eastern Turkey Burgers.

• 
  
  1/2 cup peeled, seeded, and finely diced English cucumber
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped red onion
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup plain whole-milk or lowfat yogurt, preferably Greek
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of cayenne or Aleppo pepper; more to taste
  
  

Combine the cucumber, onion, and 1 tsp. salt in a bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least 20 minutes. Drain off the liquid and rinse to remove excess salt. Drain well and taste a few pieces; if it’s too salty, rinse and drain again. In a small bowl, combine the cucumber and onion with the yogurt, cilantro, sugar, and cayenne or Aleppo pepper. Let sit for 30 minutes for the flavors to develop. Season to taste with salt and cayenne.

Raw Fresh Tomato Sauce

In this quick sauce, hot olive oil and salt are added to diced fresh tomatoes and herbs. Be sure to do this just before tossing with cooked pasta, since the scalding oil releases the flavor of the herbs, and the salt can draw too much liquid from the tomatoes if added too soon. A raw sauce is best paired with spaghetti or spaghettini; thicker, heavier pasta shapes are not a good match.  

• 
  
  3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Fine sea salt
  
  

Cut a 1/4-inch slice from the tops of the tomatoes. Peel the tomatoes with a vegetable peeler, using a zig-zag motion, halve them crosswise, and remove and discard the seeds. Cut the tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the basil and oregano.

Just before serving, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a 1-quart saucepan until shimmering hot (but not smoking); pour over the tomato mixture, add 2 tsp. salt, and mix well. Toss with cooked pasta and serve.

Slow-Cooker Bolognese Sauce with Pancetta, Porcini, and Rosemary

This rich, complex sauce smells and tastes like fall—with its earthy mushrooms, smoky pancetta, and sweet woodsy rosemary. Serve it over pasta, ideally pappardelle, and freeze any extra (you'll have a lot of sauce). This recipe uses a smaller quantity of milk than is traditional, since milk can curdle in the slow cooker. Be sure to use high-quality pancetta and feel free to vary the kind of mushroom.

• 
  
  1⁄4 cup dried porcini or other wild mushrooms
  
  


• 
  
  3 slices white bread
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  Scant 3 lb. ground beef chuck or meatloaf mix, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  15 grinds black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 lb. pancetta, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely chopped porcini mushrooms (about 5 large)
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups finely chopped carrots (about 4 medium)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely chopped celery (about 4 stalks)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely chopped red onions (about 1 small)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup tomato paste (about 5 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
  
  


• 
  
  3⁄4 cup canned diced tomatoes, with juice
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken stock
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. pappardelle pasta, cooked according to the package directions
  
  

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Add the dried mushrooms to a small bowl and cover with very hot water; let sit for 15 minutes, then drain and finely chop. In a large bowl, mash the bread and milk together until a smooth paste forms. Gently knead in the beef, salt, and pepper, and mix well.

Add the butter to a medium-size, heavy saucepan and heat over medium-high heat. When melted, add the pancetta and sauté until browned, about 8 minutes. Pour off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add the meat mixture, and cook until browned, about 10 minutes. Add the fresh porcini and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the dried mushrooms, carrots, celery, onions, garlic, and nutmeg. Sauté until the vegetables are slightly softened and aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and flour, and cook until the flour is no longer visible, no more than 1 minute. With the pan off the heat, carefully add the wine. Then return the pan to high heat and stir well, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release any food bits. Cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes and stock, and cook for another minute. Pour into the slow cooker.

Cover the slow cooker and cook on low until the meat has cooked through and the sauce is aromatic and very flavorful, about 6 hours. Spoon the fat off the surface, stir in the rosemary, break up the meat more with a fork, and serve with pasta.