Food 2: Italian

Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts

Monday, December 9, 2013

Fennel Layered with Potatoes & Breadcrumbs (Tortiera di Finocchi e Patate)

Take care to make the potato slices equally thin so they cook evenly. A mandoline or other vegetable slicer makes the job easier, but you can also do it by hand with a sharp knife.

2 lb. yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Gold

1 large fennel bulb, trimmed (3/4 to 1 lb. after trimming)

1 cup firmly packed fresh breadcrumbs

1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino (preferably Tuscan) or Parmigiano-Reggiano

3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish

2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Tip:

To make fresh breadcrumbs, use a dense, day-old French or Italian country-style loaf. Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and process in a food processor until fine.

Peel the potatoes and slice them as thinly as possible, between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick (use a mandoline if you have one). Put the sliced potatoes in a large bowl of cold water to keep them from browning.

Cut the fennel in half lengthwise. Slice the halved fennel crosswise as thinly as possible, between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick. You should have about 4 cups.

In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, and garlic. Mix well with your hands, making sure the garlic is evenly distributed.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400ºF.

Lightly oil the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking dish.

Without draining the potatoes, use your hands to lift out about one-third of the slices and arrange them in the bottom of the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. (The water clinging to them will generate steam as they bake.) Season with 1/2 tsp. of the salt and a couple of grinds of the pepper. Sprinkle the potatoes evenly with 1/4 cup of the breadcrumb mixture. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the oil. Top the potatoes with half of the sliced fennel, spreading it evenly. Sprinkle the fennel with 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/4 cup of the breadcrumb mixture, and 1 Tbs. of the oil. Repeat this layering process, ending with a top layer of potatoes. Season the top layer with the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt and some more pepper. Top with the remaining breadcrumb mixture and the final 2 Tbs. oil.

Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes (be sure the aluminum foil is sealed tightly all around the baking dish, or there won’t be enough steam to cook the potatoes). Uncover and continue baking until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork and the top is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Let rest at least 10 minutes before serving. The tortiera is as good warm as it is hot.

Grilled Tomatoes with Saba and Sea Salt

Saba is a syrupy condiment from Italy made from reduced unfermented grape juice. Balsamic vinegar is a good substitution if reduced until slightly syrupy.

8 small tomatoes (3 to 4 oz. each) cored and halved crosswise

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. saba

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the cut sides of the tomatoes with the olive oil. Grill the tomatoes cut side down until charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a platter, cut side up. Drizzle the tomatoes with the saba and sprinkle with salt to taste. Serve immediately.

Tuscan Kale with Shallots and Crisp Salami

The salty, sweet, and spicy ingredients in this recipe support the earthy flavor of the kale beautifully. Briefly boiling the kale first means that it’s cooked perfectly before it gets a quick toss with the aromatic ingredients in the pan.
Watch a quick video tip from our Test Kitchen to learn how to trim the kale.

2 tsp. honey

1 tsp. sherry vinegar

Kosher salt

14 oz. Tuscan kale (also called cavolo nero, black, dinosaur, and Lacinato kale)

2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 large or 4 small shallots (about 4 oz.), sliced into thin rings

2 oz. thinly sliced Genoa salami, cut into thin strips (1/8 to 1/4 inch wide)

1 Tbs. unsalted butter, well softened

In a small bowl, whisk the honey and vinegar. Set aside.

Fill a 5- to 6-quart pot about three-quarters full with water. Add 1 Tbs. salt and bring to a boil over high heat.

To trim the kale, grab each stem with one hand and rip the two leafy sides away from it with the other hand. Discard the stems. Rip the leaves into 3 or 4 pieces. Add the kale to the boiling water and cook until just tender, 4 to 7 minutes. Drain and spread it out on a rimmed baking sheet lined with a clean dishtowel to steam and release excess moisture, 10 to 15 minutes.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot rings and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the shallots to a plate. Increase the heat to medium high, add the salami strips and cook, stirring and breaking them up into smaller bits, until crisp, about 2 minutes. Transfer the salami to a plate.

Add the kale to the pan and toss with the fat until the kale is just heated through (do not cook it for long or it will begin to weep moisture). Off the heat, add the honey mixture and toss well. Add the reserved shallots and the butter and toss until the butter is melted. Season to taste with salt. Transfer the kale to a serving platter. Garnish with the salami. Serve immediately.

Olive-Oil-Braised Fennel with Lemon

This makes a tasty side dish for mussels or grilled shrimp. You can eat the thinly sliced pieces of lemon, which become as caramelized and soft as the fennel.

3-1/2 lb. fennel (about 2 large bulbs), tops removed, halved and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick wedges (fronds reserved for garnish; optional)

3 1/4-inch-thick lemon slices, cut into quarters

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Arrange the fennel wedges in an overlapping single layer in a 10x15-inch baking dish. Nestle the lemon pieces peel side up among the fennel. Drizzle with the olive oil and 1 Tbs. water, and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil.

Braise the fennel in the oven until completely tender when pierced with a fork, 1 to 1-1/4 hours. Uncover the dish and continue to braise until the fennel is browned at the edges and there is no liquid left in the pan, about 20 minutes more. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with the fronds (if using).

Warm Pasta Salad with Grilled Tomatoes, Zucchini & Pecorino

1-1/2 lb. ripe plum tomatoes (about 8), cored and halved lengthwise

1-1/4 lb. small zucchini (about 4), trimmed and halved lengthwise

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

4 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

2 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more as needed

6 oz. Pecorino Romano, shaved with a vegetable peeler (about 2 cups)

1 lb. dried penne

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives

2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

Prepare a medium fire on a gas grill or a medium-hot charcoal fire. In a large bowl, toss the tomatoes and zucchini with 2 Tbs. of the oil, 2 tsp. of the thyme, and the salt and pepper.

Set the vegetables cut side down on the grill and cook without moving them until they have good grill marks, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip and cook until browned and tender, 6 to 8 more minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool for a couple of minutes. Coarsely chop, return them to the same large bowl along with 1-1/2 cups of the pecorino, and toss. Let sit for up to a couple of hours at room temperature.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring often, until just al dente, about 11 minutes. Drain well and toss with the tomato mixture, 3 Tbs. of the chives, the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil and the balsamic vinegar. Season generously with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 Tbs. chives, 2 tsp. thyme, and 1/2 cup pecorino, and serve.

Rainbow Chard with Pine Nuts, Parmesan, and Basil

This easy sauté makes delicious use of the ingredients that go into pesto. Before you start, watch the Test Kitchen's video to get a few quick tips on trimming chard.

13 to 14 oz. Rainbow chard (about 1 large bunch)

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. pine nuts

Kosher salt

1 Tbs. minced garlic

1 Tbs. cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh basil leaves (8 to 10 large)

Pull or cut the stems from the chard leaves. Cut or rip the leaves into 2- to 3-inch pieces and wash and dry them well. Rinse the stems and slice them crosswise 1/4 inch thick.

In a 12-inch nonstick stir-fry pan or skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the pine nuts to a plate, leaving behind as much oil as possible.

Return the pan to medium-high heat, add the chard stems and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until shrunken and beginning to brown lightly, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add the chard leaves and 1/4 tsp. salt. Toss with tongs until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. (If using a skillet, you may need to add the chard in batches, letting the first batch wilt before adding more.) Remove the pan from the heat, add the cold butter pieces and stir just until the butter has melted.

Using tongs, immediately transfer about half of the leaves and stems to a serving plate and arrange. Sprinkle on half of the Parmigiano, basil, and pine nuts. Layer on the remaining leaves, stems, and pan juices, and garnish with the remaining cheese, basil, and pine nuts. Serve immediately.

Burrata with Heirloom Tomatoes

This variation on a Caprese salad is a Di Bruno Bros. classic. Serve it with grilled bread, olives, and Prosecco for a light appetizer or a summery lunch. It’s easily doubled or halved.

1 lb. heirloom tomatoes cut into bite-size pieces (or about 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes)

8 basil leaves, sliced into ribbons

3/4 cup balsamic vinegar

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 burrata, about 12 oz. each

1 loaf rustic Italian bread, cut in thick slices and grilled or toasted

Toss the tomatoes with the basil and balsamic. While they sit, make a quick garlic oil—just heat the olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat for about a minute, then add the minced garlic. You don’t want it to brown, so as soon as the garlic begins to sizzle, remove the pan from the burner.

Pour the hot garlic oil over the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the tomato mixture on four plates, and slice the burrata vertically in half. There’s cream inside, so make sure you do this on a cutting board or plate. Arrange the halved burrata on top of the tomatoes. Serve with thick slices of grilled or toasted bread.

Rice Pilaf with Sage, Parmigiano & Prosciutto

I love to serve this with roast chicken, along with asparagus or fava beans.

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 lb. very thinly sliced prosciutto (about 5 slices), cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips

4 Tbs. unsalted butter

3 Tbs. chopped fresh sage

4 large cloves garlic, minced (2 Tbs.)

3 large shallots, thinly sliced (1 scant cup)

1-1/2 cups long-grain white rice

1 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed

1 cup dry white wine

1-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth

2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, coarsely grated on the large holes of a box grater (about 2/3 cup)

Tip:

Crisping the prosciutto in olive oil before sautéing the aromatics and toasting the rice infuses the oil and everything that subsequently cooks in it, adding more flavor.

In a 3-qt. heavy-based saucepan with a tight lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Cook half the prosciutto in the hot oil, stirring occasionally, until browned and crispy, 1 to 2 min. With tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the prosciutto to a paper towel to drain. Repeat with the remaining prosciutto.

Add 2 Tbs. of the butter to the pan and reduce the heat to low. When the butter has melted, add 2 Tbs. of the sage and cook for a few seconds, and then add the garlic and shallots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are soft but not browned, about 5 min. Add the rice and salt and stir well to coat each grain with oil. Toast for a full 5 min., stirring regularly to keep the grains separated and to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan (the rice may turn opaque before 5 minutes is up, but keep going).

Tip:

Fluff the rice by slipping the tines of a fork down into the rice alongside the edge of the pan. Gently lift and toss the rice toward the center of the pan. Continue this process as you work your way around the perimeter. Then add your finishing-touch ingredients and gently fold them in with the fork, using a similar gentle fluffing motion.

Add the wine, stir well, and cook over medium heat until the wine is mostly reduced, about 3 min. Add the chicken broth, stir once, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 min. Remove the pan from the heat and let sit, still covered, for 5 min.

Once the pilaf has rested, remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. Cut the remaining 2 Tbs. butter into several pieces and, using the fork, gently fold it into the rice with the remaining 1 Tbs. sage, the Parmigiano, and the cooked prosciutto. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth

Kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1-1/4 cups minced shallots

2 tsp. minced garlic

7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)

12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)

1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)

Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Italian Green Beans with Tomatoes and Balsamic

This is a speedy version of slow-cooked Italian green beans, elegant in its simplicity. Sauté the haricots verts quickly to preserve their delicate texture, then toss them with a sauce of plum tomatoes and balsamic vinegar.

Kosher salt

3/4 lb. haricots verts, trimmed

2 Tbs. olive oil

2 medium cloves garlic, smashed

2 large plum tomatoes, roughly chopped and puréed in a food processor

1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

Shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano,for garnish (optional)

Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until bright green and just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge in a large bowl of ice water. Let cool for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and set aside

Heat the oil in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and vinegar, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook, stirring until the mixture reduces by half, about 2 minutes. Add the beans to the pan and cook until warmed through and coated with the tomato mixture, about 1 minute. Taste the beans and season with salt and pepper if needed; garnish with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano if desired. Serve immediately.

Broccoli with Spicy Gremolata

Traditional gremolata (garlic, parsley, and lemon zest) is given a spicy twist with the addition of crushed red pepper flakes.

1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

3 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest

1 Tbs. minced garlic

1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes; more to taste

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 lb. fresh broccoli, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch florets

In a large bowl, combine the parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, zest, garlic, pepper flakes, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add half of the broccoli and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon or strainer, transfer the broccoli to a colander, rinse with cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again. Repeat with the remaining broccoli. Add the broccoli to the gremolata and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a serving bowl.

Fregola with Wild Mushrooms, Sherry & Cream

If you can’t find chanterelles, hedgehogs, or porcini mushrooms, substitute cremini. This pasta is delicious with seared duck breast or roast pork.

3/4 lb. wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, hedgehogs, porcini, or a mix

1-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1-1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

2 medium shallots (4 oz.), finely diced

1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme

3 Tbs. dry sherry

1 cup heavy cream

Freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1-1/4 cups fregola sarda

About 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for sprinkling

Gently clean the mushrooms with a damp cloth or mushroom brush to remove any dirt or debris and use a paring knife to remove any dark spots or tough stem ends. If the mushrooms appear sandy, dip them quickly into a large basin of water and drain. Leave small, bite-size mushrooms whole; cut larger mushrooms into 1-1/2-inch pieces.

Set a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat and add 1/2 Tbs. of the butter and 1/2 Tbs. of the oil. Swirl the pan to melt the butter and add half of the mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are cooked through and golden brown, about 6 minutes; the cooking time will vary, though, depending on the type of mushroom and its water content. (Avoid stirring the mushrooms too frequently, or they won’t brown well.) Transfer the mushrooms to a plate. Add another 1/2 Tbs. butter and 1/2 Tbs. oil to the pan and cook the remaining mushrooms. Combine all of the cooked mushrooms. When they’re cool enough to handle, chop them coarsely.

Return the pan to medium-high heat. (It’s not necessary to wash the pan unless it’s scorched.) Add the remaining 1/2 Tbs. butter and 1/2 Tbs. oil. Swirl the pan to melt the butter and add the shallots, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are tender and golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add the sherry and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan, until the sherry has evaporated, about 1 minute. Return the mushrooms to the pan, add the cream, season with salt and a generous amount of black pepper, and cook until the cream has thickened slightly, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in the parsley and keep warm.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the fregola to the boiling water and cook until al dente, 10 to 14 minutes. Drain and immediately toss the fregola with the mushroom mixture. Season to taste with more salt and pepper if necessary. Transfer to a platter or individual plates, sprinkle with the Parmigiano, and serve.

Sautéed Broccoli Raab with Balsamic Vinegar

Mildly bitter broccoli raab is tempered with sweet balsamic vinegar, garlic, anchovies, and a touch of hot chile. Even if you think you don’t like anchovies, don’t leave them out—their flavor blends into the background and gives the dish a savory edge that is absolutely delicious.

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt

2 large bunches broccoli raab (2-1/2 lb.), thick stems trimmed, leaves and florets rinsed well

4 medium cloves garlic, lightly crushed and peeled

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, boil the vinegar over medium-high heat until reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Have a large bowl of ice water ready. Blanch the broccoli raab in the boiling water for 3 minutes (the water needn’t return to a boil). Drain it and transfer to the ice water to cool. Drain well and gently squeeze the broccoli raab to remove excess water.

Heat the garlic and oil in a large skillet over medium heat until the garlic begins to turn golden, 2 minutes; remove and discard the garlic. Add the anchovies, mashing them with the back of a wooden spoon until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the broccoli raab and cook, stirring often, until tender and heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Drizzle with the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a platter and serve.

Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel

Radicchio, fennel, cannellini beans, pine nuts, and artichoke hearts give this grain salad an Italian accent, and make it hearty enough to be a meatless main dish. It packs well, making it ideal for picnics or weekday lunches.

3 cups semi-pearled farro

Kosher salt

1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

1/2 cup chopped black olives

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup oil-packed artichoke hearts

1 cup diced fennel (1/2-inch dice)

1 cup shredded radicchio

1 cup cooked cannellini beans

3/4 cup toasted pine nuts

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

Rinse the farro under cold water and drain. Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add 3/4 tsp. salt. Add the farro, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water as necessary to keep the farro covered, until tender, about 30 to 35 minutes. Drain and rinse the farro with cold water to stop the cooking.

Transfer the farro to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil, and toss lightly to coat. Spread the farro on the baking sheet and cool completely at room temperature or in the refrigerator.

Put the vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil. Whisk in the lemon zest and black olives Taste and season with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar or olive oil as needed.

Put the cooked and cooled farro in a large serving bowl and toss to break up any clumps. Add the artichokes, fennel, radicchio, cannellini, pine nuts, basil, and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper. Serve or refrigerate for up to 1 day. If making ahead, let sit at room temperature so it’s not refrigerator-cold and season with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper before serving.

Tomatoes and Burrata with Tapenade

Burrata (a fresh Italian cheese similar to mozzarella but with a creamy center) is a luscious addition to this updated Caprese salad. If you can’t find it, use fresh mozzarella.

12 oz. burrata, cut into 1/2-inch thick slices

3 medium ripe beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch thick slices

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 large basil leaves, torn into pieces

4 tsp. tapenade (store bought or homemade)

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Arrange the burrata on a platter, alternating with the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Scatter the torn basil leaves over all and dollop with the tapenade. Drizzle with the oil and serve.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth

Kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1-1/4 cups minced shallots

2 tsp. minced garlic

7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)

12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)

1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)

Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Asparagus Ravioli with Brown Butter Sauce

Wonton wrappers are a quick alternative to homemade pasta for ravioli. The rich brown butter, bright lemon zest, and crunchy almond garnish perfectly complement the creamy asparagus filling.

Sea salt

1 lb. thick asparagus, trimmed, spears cut into 1-inch pieces, tips reserved

6 Tbs. mascarpone

1/3 cup whole milk ricotta

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving

1 tsp. anchovy paste

1/2 tsp. minced garlic

Pinch cayenne

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

36 wonton wrappers

4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter

1/2 cup blanched almonds, chopped

Finely grated lemon zest to taste

Bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a medium bowl of ice water. Boil the asparagus tips until tender but still bright green, about 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer to the ice water. When cool, transfer with the slotted spoon to a small bowl and set aside. Cook and cool the asparagus spears in the same manner; dry them on paper towels. In a food processor (or by hand), chop 1-1/2 cups of the spears very finely and transfer to a medium bowl. Add the remaining spears to the tips.

Add the mascarpone, ricotta, Parmigiano, anchovy paste, garlic, and cayenne to the chopped asparagus; mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Arrange 18 wonton wrappers on a work surface. Put 1 level Tbs. of the asparagus filling in the center of each wrapper. Using a pastry brush, moisten the edges of each with water. Top each with another wrapper and press the edges firmly to seal, expelling any air bubbles as you seal. If you don’t plan to cook the ravioli immediately, cover them with a damp cloth.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat and add the almonds, shaking the pan. Cook until the butter turns light brown, about 6 minutes, and then immediately transfer to a small bowl.

Add the ravioli to the boiling water. When they rise to the surface, after about 1 minute, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to warm plates or pasta bowls. Spoon the brown butter mixture over the ravioli. Top with the reserved asparagus pieces, a grinding of pepper, a sprinkle of Parmigiano, and a little lemon zest, and serve.

Easy Pizza Sauce

1 28-oz. can whole peeled plum tomatoes

Pulse the tomatoes in a food processor until almost smooth. Transfer to a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to maintain the simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until very thick and reduced to about 2 cups, about 40 minutes.

Spring Risotto with Ramps, Asparagus, and Morels

Ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the fleeting pleasures of early spring. Their pungent, almost spicy garlicky-onion flavor mellows a bit with cooking, and this creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle to show them off, paired with two other spring vegetable stars, morels and asparagus.

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 cup trimmed and roughly chopped ramps

2 cups asparagus pieces (1 inch)

7 cups homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups chopped onion

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 cups short-grain risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup dried morels, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch slices (strain and reserve the soaking liquid)

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a medium sauté pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the ramps and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring the broth almost to a boil in a large pot. Reduce the heat to very low; the broth should stay hot but not simmer.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least 10 inches wide or in a similar-sized Dutch oven. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook slowly, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is completely gone and the onion is soft and glistening but not browned, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. Toasted rice should still be white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it.

Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir the mushrooms and their soaking liquid into the rice, and cook, stirring, until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

Ladle in 1-1/2 to 2 cups broth to barely cover the rice and stir constantly. Add another 1/2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is dry enough that your stirring spoon leaves a trail showing the bottom of the pot, ladle in another cup of broth, again stirring until it’s all absorbed. Continue adding broth in 1-cup increments, always stirring, until the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually 12 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid.

When the risotto is a few minutes away from al dente, stir in the sautéed ramps and asparagus.

After you’ve added 5 cups of liquid, (16 to 20 minutes from the first liquid addition), taste the rice to determine if it’s al dente and pleasantly creamy. If it is, remove it immediately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorporating more broth. Gently stir in the cheese and parsley and serve immediately.

Asparagus, Ham and Mushroom Strata

Looking for the perfect make-ahead for Easter brunch? You can assemble the strata, which is like an Italian quiche, but instead of a pastry crust, leftover bread forms the egg custard base, up to two days before brunch and bake it just before serving. Trim the bread's crust for a neat and pretty dish, or leave it intact for a heartier texture.

2 Tbs. unsalted butter, more for the pan

1 lb asparagus, ends snapped off, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3-1/2 oz. oyster mushrooms (or shiitake or white mushrooms), stemmed and thinly sliced

6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, white and green parts separated (1/2 cup green, 2 Tbs. white)

9 large eggs, beaten

2-3/4 cups milk (preferably whole)

1 large loaf (about 1 lb.) rustic white bread (like ciabatta), cut into 1-inch cubes

8 oz. thinly sliced deli ham, cut into 1-inch strips

3 cups grated extra sharp Cheddar (about 8 oz.)

Melt the butter in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spears start to brown and soften, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and scallion whites and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and cook through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for a couple of minutes.

Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs with the milk and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Spread half the bread in a single layer on the bottom of the baking dish. Top with half the egg mixture and then cover with half the ham, cheese, and asparagus mixture, and sprinkle with half the scallion greens. Repeat with the remaining bread, custard, ham, cheese, asparagus mixture, and scallions. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing down so the bread is completely submerged in the egg mixture, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days before baking.

Put a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Let the strata sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Bake until the custard sets and the top browns, about 30 minutes. Loosely cover with foil and bake for another 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, cut into square pieces, and serve.