Creamed Corn with Shallots

Forget canned or frozen creamed corn. Once you try this version, made with fresh corn, shallots, butter, and cream, you’ll never go back. Remove as much of the flavorful corn “milk” from the cob as possible for the best flavor.

• 
  
  5 ears fresh corn
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup minced shallots
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Slice the kernels from the corn to yield 3 cups (don’t cut too deeply; you want only the tender tips of the kernels). Put the kernels in a medium bowl and reserve the cobs. Working with one cob at a time, stand it on its end in the bowl and scrape the back of the knife down the sides to release the corn “milk.”

Melt the butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until softened, 1 minute. Add the corn, cream, and 1/2 tsp. salt and simmer gently, stirring often, until the cream has thickened, about 4 minutes. Stir in the nutmeg, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

Carrot Mash with Orange and Mint

This brightly colored mash has a tantalizing flavor that’s ideal with rich lamb dishes. A touch of hot sauce keeps the sweetness of the orange in check.

• 
  
  2 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. finely grated orange zest; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, such as Tabasco, to taste
  
  

Put the carrots in a 4-quart saucepan with enough cool water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add 1 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a gentle boil until the carrots can be easily pierced with a fork, about 25 minutes.

Drain well in a colander, letting the steam rise for a few minutes. Meanwhile, heat the butter, cream, oil, mint, orange zest, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a dash of hot sauce in the saucepan over low heat until the butter is melted.

For a rustic texture, return the carrots to the pan and mash with a potato masher to the consistency you like.

For a smooth texture (shown), purée the carrots in a food processor until smooth and then add them to the pan, stirring well to combine.

Season to taste with more orange zest, salt, or hot sauce before serving.

Spicy Glazed Onions

Sweet little onions get a kick from cayenne and make an elegant accompaniment to roast beef. Cipollini onions are ideal here because they’re small enough to serve whole but big enough that peeling them isn’t a chore. Pearl onions are a good though slightly more-labor-intensive substitution if cipollini aren’t available.Web extra: View an audio slideshow to hear the sound of the glaze as it crackles, indicating that it’s time to lower the heat.

• 
  
  1 lb. cipollini or pearl onions, ends trimmed, with some root end left intact
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. honey
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch to tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. white wine vinegar; more to taste
  
  

Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Bring a 4- to 5-quart pot of water to a rolling boil and add the onions. Cook for 1 minute, drain, and transfer to the bowl of ice water. Swish the onions around until they’re chilled. Remove them from the water and peel; the skins should come off easily when you rub them with your fingers, though some may need a paring knife.

Put the onions in an 8-inch-wide, 3- to 4-quart saucepan and arrange snugly. Add the butter, honey, cayenne, 1/2 tsp. salt, and enough water to just cover the onions (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat.

Cook over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze and the onions are tender, about 10 minutes. (If the glaze is done before the onions, add about 1/2 cup water and continue to cook. If the onions are done first, remove them and continue to boil the liquid until syrupy.)

Lower the heat to medium low, add the white wine vinegar and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and serve. (The glazed onions can be kept warm, covered, for about 20 minutes.)

Korean Bean Sprouts (Kong Namul)

One of several banchan, or side dishes that round out a Korean barbecue menu, these crunchy sprouts are imbued with nutty flavor from sesame oil and roasted sesame seeds. You can find soybean sprouts in the produce section of Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets. It’s a bit tedious to trim the straggly ends, but well worth the effort in both appearance and taste.

• 
  
  4 oz. fresh soybean sprouts, stringy root ends trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1 small scallion, both white and green parts, very thinly sliced (1-1/2 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium clove garlic, minced (1 tsp.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. roasted sesame seeds
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  

Mix all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan with 1/4 cup water and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the sprouts are wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and let cool to room temperature before serving.

Green Lentils with Green Beans and Cilantro

For vegetarians, these refreshing lentils, accompanied perhaps by a yogurt relish and a bread, Indian or crusty Western, could make an entire meal. For non-vegetarians, meats or fish curries may be added.

• 
  
  1-1/2 cups green lentils
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup 3/4-inch green bean segments
  
  


• 
  
  1 well-packed cup finely chopped cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive or canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground asafetida
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. whole cumin seeds
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium shallot, peeled and cut into fine slivers
  
  


• 
  
  A few wedges of lemon, if desired
  
  

Put the lentils and 4-1/4 cups water in a medium pan and bring to a boil. Cover partially, turn heat to low, and simmer very gently for 20 minutes. Add the salt, cayenne, green beans, and cilantro. Stir to mix and bring to a boil again. Cover partially and simmer very gently for another 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

Pour the oil into a small frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the asafetida and cumin seeds. Let the seeds sizzle for 10 seconds. Add the shallots. Stir and fry them on medium heat until they turn reddish. Now pour the entire contents of the frying pan into the pan with the lentils. Stir to mix.

Offer lemon wedges at the table.

Smoked Cheddar Polenta

Fresh corn adds texture to this classic ground-corn dish. Polenta leftovers make a great second-day meal—use them as a bed for sautéed vegetables.

• 
  
  1 large ear corn, shucked and snapped in half
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup polenta (not quick cooking)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. extra sharp white cheddar, coarsely grated (1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. smoked cheddar, coarsely grated (1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  Chicken broth, as needed (optional)
  
  

Position an oven rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Using the coarse holes of a box grater, grate the corn directly into an oven-safe, 2- to 3-quart, heavy-duty saucepan. Add the milk and water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Slowly sprinkle in the polenta, whisking constantly (do not add quickly and all at once or it will become lumpy), until the mixture just begins to thicken, about 2 minutes. Cover pan tightly with a double layer of foil or a tight fitting lid, place in the oven, and bake for 45 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and whisk in the cheeses and butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The polenta should have the consistency of soft mashed potatoes. If not, adjust with more milk or chicken broth. Keep warm until ready to serve.

Brown Rice with Walnuts and Golden Raisins

Whole grains have gone from hippy to hip in just a few years. And that’s a good thing, because whole grains—from brown rice and whole-wheat pasta to quinoa, bulgur, and barley—have double benefits: fiber and antioxidants. The toasted walnuts and raisins in this dish add texture and substance to an otherwise basic brown rice.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 small yellow onion, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup brown rice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. golden raisins
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup walnuts, toasted and finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Heat the oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat in the oil. Add 1-1/4 cups water and 1/2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until all the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 35 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 5 minutes before fluffing with a fork.


Meanwhile, put the raisins in a small bowl and add enough boiling water to cover. Allow them to plump for 10 minutes; then drain.


Stir the raisins, walnuts, and parsley into the cooked rice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Celery Root and Rutabaga Mash

It’s hard to believe that this elegant purée begins with two of autumn’s most humble-looking roots. This mash would be excellent with roast chicken or turkey or even red-wine-braised short ribs.

• 
  
  1 lb. celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup whole milk; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 small clove garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 pinch celery seed
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground white pepper
  
  

Put the celery root and rutabaga in a 4-quart saucepan with enough cool water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add 1 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a gentle boil, skimming off any white foam that rises, until the vegetables can be easily pierced with a fork, about 25 minutes.

Drain in a colander, letting the steam rise off for a few minutes. Meanwhile, heat the milk, butter, garlic, celery seed, and 1tsp. salt in the saucepan over low heat until the butter is melted.

For a rustic texture, return the celery root and rutabaga to the pan and mash with a potato masher to the consistency you like.

For a smooth texture, purée the celery root and rutabaga in a food processor until smooth, about 5 minutes, and then add them to the pan, stirring well to combine.

Season to taste with salt and white pepper and thin with additional milk, if necessary, before serving.

Triple-Sesame Jasmine Rice

This rice gets three hits of sesame flavor: from toasted sesame oil and black and white sesame seeds, which also add subtle texture. It makes a perfect accompaniment to any dish with an Asian spin, especially salmon or other seafood dishes.

• 
  
  1 cup jasmine rice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. black sesame seeds
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. toasted white sesame seeds
  
  

In a large sieve, rinse the rice under cold running water and drain. In a 2-quart saucepan, combine 1-1/2 cups of water with the rice, sesame oil, butter, and 3/4 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; stir once. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes.

Put a clean dishtowel under the lid, and let stand off the heat, covered, for 5 minutes. Add the black and white sesame seeds, fluff with a fork, and serve.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 
  
  7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups minced shallots
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Jellied Cranberry-Orange Sauce

With delicate notes of orange and clove and a bright, sweet-tart cranberry flavor, this ruby-red sauce puts the canned stuff to shame.

• 
  
  12 oz. (3 cups) cranberries, rinsed and picked over
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3 strips orange zest (each 1/2 x 3 inches)
  
  


• 
  
  1 whole clove
  
  

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the ingredients with 1 cup of water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the berries are mostly broken down and the liquid has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

While it’s still hot, force the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula. Be sure to scrape the mixture from the bottom of the strainer. Whisk well and then transfer to a 2-cup bowl or mold. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap once cool.

To unmold, invert the bowl onto a small serving plate and shake it side to side until the sauce slips onto the plate.

Ember-Roasted Salt Potatoes with Scallion Cream

The salt potato is a wonder to behold. Those who think that they have experienced the true essence of earthy starchiness that is the potato but have not tried this method are in for a surprise. The secret is to not be afraid of the salt. A true salt potato is boiled in water salted in a ratio of 1 pound salt for every 4 pounds of potatoes. Yes, that is a lot of salt. It’s so much salt that it crystallizes on the skins of the cooked potatoes, making them look like something dug up on a paleontological excavation. But, boy, do they taste great. In this recipe the salt content is reduced and the potatoes are then further subjected to the withering heat and smoke of an aromatic fire. The result? An addictive melding of salty, crunchy, fluffy, flaky goodness.

• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. new potatoes (red or white)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 bunch scallions, trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sour cream
  
  

Place the potatoes in a pan just large enough to hold them and provide a little headroom. Cover them with cold water and add the salt. Cook over medium heat until the potatoes are fork tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and let them cool slightly.

Set the potatoes in the embers of a dying fire and cover the grill. Cook until the skins are blistered and the potatoes are heated through, about 20 minutes. Remove them from the coals and brush off any ash. Cut them in half and arrange them on a platter.

Combine the scallions and sour cream with a pinch of salt in a food processor. Purée until the mixture is smooth. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary, but consider the salt content of the potatoes!

Serve the potatoes either warm or at room temperature with the sour cream sauce.

Miso-Honey-Glazed Turnips

These turnips may not look like much, but one bite will make you say “wow.” The savory miso combined with sweet honey and peppery turnips is pure magic. Web extra: View an audio slideshow to hear the sound of the glaze as it crackles, indicating that it’s time to lower the heat.

• 
  
  1 lb. trimmed and peeled turnips, cut into 1-inch wedges (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. white miso
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. honey
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Put the turnips in an 8-inch-wide, 3- to 4-quart saucepan and arrange snugly. Add butter, miso, honey, 1/2 tsp. salt, and enough water to just cover the turnips (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat.

Cook over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until most of the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze and the turnips are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. (If the glaze is done before the turnips, add about 1/2 cup water and continue to cook. If the turnips are done first, remove them and boil the liquid until syrupy.)

Lower the heat to medium and toss to coat the turnips with the glaze. Season to taste with salt and serve. (The glazed turnips can be kept warm, covered, for about 20 minutes.)

Caramel Potatoes

It may seem odd to cook potatoes in caramel, but they’re incredibly delicious, and Christmas dinner at our house wouldn’t be the same without them. The secret to this recipe is letting the potatoes simmer slowly and gently in the caramel, turning them every now and again, to coat them layer by layer.

• 
  
  4-1/2 lb. baby potatoes (about 1 inch in diameter)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  
  

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 8-quart pot, add cool water to cover and 1/4 cup salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a baking sheet to cool slightly, about 20 minutes. Peel.

Put the sugar in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and let it melt, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, about 6 minutes; it will be a medium amber color. Stir in the butter and 1/2 tsp. salt until the foam from the butter begins to subside, 1 to 2 minutes. The butter and caramel will be separate at this point.

Add the potatoes and stir once to coat. The caramel will seize and become stringy, but that’s OK. Use the spatula to push any hard bits of caramel to the bottom of the skillet so they can melt again; as the potatoes cook, the caramel will smooth out into a homogenous sauce. Adjust the heat to keep the caramel at a simmer and cook, occasionally turning the potatoes, until the caramel thickens and begins to coat them, about 20 minutes. Gently and constantly turn the potatoes until they are coated layer by layer with the caramel, 5 to 10 minutes more; there will still be a thin layer of caramel in the bottom of the skillet. Remove any potatoes that fall apart as you stir. Serve the potatoes with the caramel.

Broccolini with Olives and Capers

Broccolini is a more delicate version of its larger cousin, broccoli (which is just fine to use in this recipe if you can’t find broccolini). The entire stalk is edible, and there’s no need to trim it. 

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium bunches broccolini (2 to 2-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped pitted kalamata olives
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped capers (rinse only if salt-packed)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the broccolini and stir to separate the stems. When the water returns to a boil, adjust the heat to a simmer and cook until crisp tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain well. (The broccolini may be prepared to this point up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated.)


Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until softened, about 1 minute, taking care not to let it get any color. Add the olives and capers and cook for 1 minute more. Add the broccolini and toss to coat. If the broccolini was cooked ahead, keep tossing until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Orzo with Brown Butter and Parmesan

This little black dress of a side dish pairs with practically anything—grilled meat, roasted chicken, sautéed vegetables. Like rice pilaf, the orzo is browned in butter before broth is added, which gives it a rich, nutty flavor.

• 
  
  1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup orzo
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  Thinly sliced fresh chives (optional)
  
  

In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, bring the chicken broth and 1/2 cup water to a simmer over medium-high heat.

In a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan, cook the butter over medium heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until the butter turns goldenbrown and smells nutty, about 2 minutes. Add the orzo and stir with a wooden spoon to coat well. Cook until the orzo just begins to turn a light golden color, about 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine and stir until absorbed, about 1 minute. Add the simmering broth mixture, stir, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the orzo is just tender, about 12 minutes; the mixture may still be wet but will set up.

Stir the orzo, season to taste with salt and a generous amount of pepper, and mix in the Parmigiano. Cover and let rest 5 minutes. Add the chives (if using) and serve.

Shrimp Cocktail Martini

Pairing the flavors of a shrimp cocktail with herbaceous gin and dry vermouth yields a playful, surprisingly delicious—dare we say, ingenious?—martini. You’ll have leftover pickled shrimp and tomatoes to make a tasty first course: Simply toss with about 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil and serve with crusty bread.

For the pickled shrimp and tomatoes:

• 
  
  2 cups cherry tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups Champagne vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  4 large sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. prepared horseradish
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium lemon, peel and white pith removed, sliced crosswise into 6 pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. extra-large shrimp (26 to 30 per lb., preferably wild-caught), peeled and deveined with tails left intact
  
  

For the cocktails:

• 
  
  12 fl. oz. gin (1-1/2 cups), preferably Bluecoat
  
  


• 
  
  6 fl. oz. dry vermouth (3/4 cup), preferably Dolin dry
  
  

Make the pickled shrimp and tomatoes:

Bring a 4-quart saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Score the bottom of each tomato with a small X. Blanch the tomatoes in the boiling water until you see the skin near the scoring lift, 30 to 60 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to the ice water to cool. Remove the tomatoes from the ice water and peel. Reserve the ice water, adding more ice if the first batch has melted.

In a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, bring 1-1/2 cups water and the vinegar, sugar, thyme, horseradish, coriander, pepper flakes, lemon, and 1/2 tsp. salt to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer. Add the shrimp first, then the peeled tomatoes. Cook, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are pink and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Plunge the bottom of the saucepan into the ice water and let sit, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are cool enough to touch, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a container and refrigerate, uncovered, until cold, about 2 hours. Cover.

Make the cocktails:

Strain the shrimp and tomato mixture through a medium-mesh sieve set over a 1-quart measuring cup.

For each cocktail, fill a mixing glass three-quarters full with ice. Add 2 fl. oz. (1/4 cup) gin, 1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) vermouth, and 4 fl. oz. (1/2 cup) of the shrimp pickling liquid. With a long-handled spoon, stir until well chilled, 25 to 30 rotations. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Skewer 1 pickled shrimp and 1 tomato on a toothpick and add it to the drink. Repeat to make 5 more drinks.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 
  
  7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups minced shallots
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Cardamom-Scented Rice Pudding

Many cultures have a traditional rice pudding, and this version from India is ultrarich and creamy, thanks to its unusual cooking method: The milk is reduced and thickened before the rice is added. Cinnamon, cardamom, and jaggery (raw cane or palm sugar) add wonderful aromatic notes; brown sugar is a good substitute for the jaggery, if you can’t find it. Because this dish is so rich, servings should be small.

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  3-1/2 oz. (1/2 cup) kalijira rice
  
  


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  8 cups whole milk; more if needed
  
  


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  2 3-inch cinnamon sticks, broken in half
  
  


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  8 green cardamom pods
  
  


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  Kosher salt
  
  


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  6 Tbs. packed grated dark Indian jaggery; more to taste
  
  


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  Toasted, flaked unsweetened coconut, for garnish (optional)
  
  

Put the rice in a bowl and fill with cold water. Swish the rice with your fingers to release excess starch, then pour off the water. Repeat 2 or 3 more times until the water is less cloudy. Drain and set aside.

Pour the milk into a heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, tie the cinnamon sticks and cardamom pods in a piece of cheesecloth.

When the milk begins to boil, lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and add the spice pouch. Cook, stirring frequently, until the milk has reduced to 5 cups, about 45 minutes.

Add the rice and a pinch of salt and continue to cook, stirring gently and frequently, until the rice is very soft (but not mushy) and the pudding has started to thicken, 25 to 40 minutes. Remove the spice pouch.

Add the jaggery and stir until dissolved. Season to taste with more jaggery and salt, if necessary. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, at room temperature for 30 minutes to thicken; it should be thick enough to pour slowly from a spoon. If a skin forms, stir it back into the pudding. Serve warm, garnished with the toasted coconut, if using.

Wonton Soup

Shredded romaine adds fresh flavor and a little crunch to this Chinese restaurant classic. Look for wonton wrappers in the produce section of the market. For ideas on using leftover wrappers, see the wonton ingredient profile.

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  2 quarts lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


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  3 Tbs. soy sauce
  
  


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  1 3-inch piece fresh ginger, 1 inch finely grated (1 tsp.) and 2 inches thinly sliced
  
  


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  1/4 lb. lean ground pork
  
  


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  2 large scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (green and white parts kept separate)
  
  


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  1/2 Tbs. Shaoxing (Chinese rice wine) or dry sherry
  
  


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  1/2 tsp. cornstarch
  
  


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  1/8 tsp. Asian sesame oil; more as needed
  
  


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  20 square wonton wrappers
  
  


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  2 romaine lettuce heart leaves, halved lengthwise and very thinly sliced crosswise
  
  

In a 4-quart saucepan, bring the chicken broth, 2 Tbs. of the soy sauce, and the sliced ginger to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and let the ginger steep while you make the wontons.

Combine the pork, the remaining 1 Tbs. soy sauce, the grated ginger, scallion whites, rice wine, cornstarch, and sesame oil in a medium bowl and mix gently by hand.

Arrange the wonton wrappers on a clean work surface and put 1 tsp. of the pork mixture in the center of each.

Fill a small bowl with warm water. Dip your finger into the water and run it along the edges of a wonton wrapper. Fold the wrapper diagonally over the filling, pressing out any air, to make a triangle. Press the edges firmly together. Moisten the two points on the long side of the triangle and pinch them together over the filling to seal. (The finished wonton should look like a pope’s hat.) Repeat with the remaining wrappers.

Remove the ginger from the broth with a slotted spoon. Raise the heat to a lively simmer, add the wontons one at a time (so they don’t stick together), and cook until the pork is done, 5 to 8 minutes. (To check, pull one wonton out and cut it open to make sure the pork is cooked through.)

With the slotted spoon, divide the won tons among 4 soup bowls. Divide the lettuce among the bowls. Season the broth to taste with 1 or 2 drops of sesame oil and divide evenly among the soup bowls. Sprinkle with the scallion greens and serve.