Food 2: Dairy & Eggs

Showing posts with label Dairy & Eggs. Show all posts

Monday, December 9, 2013

Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar

This hearty grain and lentil salad travels well, making it great for a weekday lunch.

2-1/2 cups brown rice

Kosher salt

1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

1/3 cup cider vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup diced apples (1/2-inch dice)

1 cup halved seedless grapes

1 cup sliced celery (1/4-inch-thick slices)

1 cup cooked brown lentils

1 cup diced Cheddar

3/4 cup chopped toasted almonds

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Rinse the rice under cold water and drain. Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add 3/4 tsp. salt. Add the rice, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water as necessary to keep the rice covered, until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and rinse the rice with cold water to stop the cooking.

Transfer the rice to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil, and toss lightly to coat. Spread the rice on the baking sheet and cool completely at room temperature or in the refrigerator.

Put the vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup of oil. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar or oil as needed.

Put the cooked and cooled rice in a large serving bowl and toss to break up any clumps. Add the apples, grapes, celery, lentils, Cheddar, almonds, parsley, and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper, and serve.

Cucumber and Herb Salad with Crumbled Feta

This simplified spin on a classic Greek salad omits the tomatoes and olives and lets the cucumbers carry the bright flavor of fresh herbs, red wine vinegar, and savory feta.

1-1/2 lb. cucumbers, halved lengthwise and seeded

1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill

2 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup crumbled feta

Tip:

Look for farm-fresh or English cucumbers, which have a tender, slightly earthy-tasting peel that's tasty left on; regular supermarket cukes usually have a waxy skin that's best removed.

Cut each seeded cucumber half in half lengthwise again, then cut the quartered cucumbers crosswise into 1/2-inch chunks. In a large bowl, toss the cucumbers with the onion, mint, dill, vinegar, and oregano. Season with salt and pepper to taste, drizzle with the olive oil and toss again. Sprinkle the feta over the top and serve.

Mushroom Salad with Lemon, Thyme, and Parmigiano

Make this delicious yet simple salad just before serving, since the longer the mushrooms marinate, the more liquid they’ll release. Pair with roast chicken or broiled steak.

1 large lemon

2 Tbs. minced shallot (about 1 small)

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh thyme

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb. button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced 1/4 inch thick

Scant 1/2 cup shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano (use a vegetable peeler)

Finely grate 1 tsp. zest from the lemon and then squeeze 2 Tbs. of juice. In a large serving bowl, mix the zest and juice with the shallot, parsley, thyme, nutmeg, 1-1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Whisk in the olive oil. Add the mushrooms and stir gently to coat. Let the salad marinate for 10 minutes.

Just before serving, stir the mushrooms again, season to taste with salt and pepper, and scatter the Parmigiano on top.

Classic Buttermilk Cornbread

This recipe take style cues from both Southern cornbread (baking in a hot, greased skillet), and Northern-style recipes (added flour and sugar). Since traditional cornbread can be dry, making a cornmeal mush and adding a little sour cream to the buttermilk go a long way toward a moist, tender crumb.
Leftover cornbread makes a flavorful and versatile base for stuffing. Use our Recipe Maker to create your own stuffing, flavored with anything from mushrooms and pine nuts to dried cranberries and sausage.
For more holiday-worthy sides visit The Guide to Thanksgiving Dinner.

9 oz. (1-3/4 cups) medium-grind stone-ground yellow cornmeal, such as Bob’s Red Mill

2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 Tbs. granulated sugar

2 tsp. baking powder

3/4 tsp. table salt

1/2 tsp. baking soda

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup sour cream

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into a few pieces

Position a rack in the center of the oven and put a 9- to 10-inch cast-iron skillet or a 9-inch heavy-duty square or round metal baking pan (not nonstick) on the rack. Heat the oven to 425°F.

In a small saucepan, bring 1/2 cup water to a boil over high heat. In a large bowl, combine 1/2 cup of the cornmeal and the boiling water. Stir to blend—the mixture should become a thick mush.

In a medium bowl, whisk the remaining 1-1/4 cups cornmeal with the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda to blend.

Add the buttermilk, sour cream, and eggs to the cornmeal mush and whisk to blend.

When the oven and pan are fully heated (after about 20 minutes), add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and mix with a wooden spoon until just blended. Do not overmix.

Remove the hot pan from the oven and add the butter pieces, tilting the pan to swirl the butter around until it’s melted and the pan is well coated. (The butter may brown; that’s fine.) Immediately pour the melted butter over the mixed batter and stir to combine—a half-dozen strokes with a wooden spoon should be plenty. Scrape into the hot pan.

Bake until the cornbread pulls away from the sides of the pan and is golden on top, 18 to 20 minutes. Immediately turn the bread out onto a rack. Cool for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Burrata with Heirloom Tomatoes

This variation on a Caprese salad is a Di Bruno Bros. classic. Serve it with grilled bread, olives, and Prosecco for a light appetizer or a summery lunch. It’s easily doubled or halved.

1 lb. heirloom tomatoes cut into bite-size pieces (or about 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes)

8 basil leaves, sliced into ribbons

3/4 cup balsamic vinegar

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 burrata, about 12 oz. each

1 loaf rustic Italian bread, cut in thick slices and grilled or toasted

Toss the tomatoes with the basil and balsamic. While they sit, make a quick garlic oil—just heat the olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat for about a minute, then add the minced garlic. You don’t want it to brown, so as soon as the garlic begins to sizzle, remove the pan from the burner.

Pour the hot garlic oil over the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the tomato mixture on four plates, and slice the burrata vertically in half. There’s cream inside, so make sure you do this on a cutting board or plate. Arrange the halved burrata on top of the tomatoes. Serve with thick slices of grilled or toasted bread.

Asparagus and Mascarpone Gratin with Parmesan Breadcrumbs

This simple yet decadent dish is easy enough to make on a weeknight but special enough (and easily doubled) for a weekend dinner party. Look for mascarpone, an Italian-style cream cheese, in the cheese section of most supermarkets.

1 lb. asparagus, trimmed of tough woody stems and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 small yellow onion, finely diced

1-1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

5 oz. mascarpone

1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. In a 2-quart gratin dish, toss the asparagus with the onion, 1/2 Tbs. of the olive oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Broil until crisp-tender, about 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, toss the breadcrumbs with the Parmigiano-Reggiano, remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, and 1/8 tsp. pepper.

Dollop the mascarpone in little spoonfuls over the asparagus, sprinkle with the nutmeg, and top with the breadcrumb mixture. Broil until bubbly and golden-brown, about 2 minutes more. Serve.

Marinated Tomatoes with Pickled Red Onions & Gorgonzola

1-1/2 cups red-wine vinegar

Kosher salt

1 small red onion (about 6 oz.), peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced crosswise

1/4 cup thinly sliced chives

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

2 lb. ripe tomatoes, preferably heirlooms of various colors (3 or 4 medium-large)

3 oz. Gorgonzola dolce or other blue cheese, crumbled (3/4 cup)

In a medium bowl, stir the red-wine vinegar with 1-1/2 tsp. salt until it has dissolved. Add the onion. If the vinegar doesn't cover the onion, add water to cover. Let sit for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the chives, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Core and cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise and then cut each half lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Put the tomatoes in a wide serving bowl. Pour the vinaigrette over the tomatoes and marinate them for 15 minutes.

Drain the onions, pressing them lightly to squeeze out any extra vinegar. Rinse the onions quickly and then lightly squeeze again. Add the onions to the tomatoes and toss. Season to taste with salt and pepper, top with the Gorgonzola, and serve.

Couscous with Corn and Blue Cheese

In this one-pot side dish, couscous is cooked with fresh corn to soak up its sweet flavor. A touch of cayenne and crumbled blue cheese add heat and tang.

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 tsp. coarsely chopped fresh thyme

2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3 to 4 medium ears)

1 cup sliced scallions (white and green parts)

Kosher salt

1 cup couscous

Pinch of cayenne

2 Tbs. crumbled blue cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in the thyme and cook until fragrant, a few seconds. Add the corn, scallions, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the scallions are softened, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup couscous, stir, and then add 1 cup of boiling water and the cayenne and stir again.

Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork,
stir in 2 Tbs. crumbled blue cheese, and season to taste with salt and
pepper. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Orzo & Grilled Vegetable Salad with Feta, Olives & Oregano

Kosher salt

8 oz. orzo (1-1/4 cups)

Vegetable oil for the grill

2 small Italian eggplants (about 3/4 lb. total), sliced into 1/2-inch-thick rounds

1 medium red bell pepper, quartered, stemmed, and seeded

1/3 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar

1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

1/2 small red onion, cut into small dice (about 2/3 cup)

1/2 cup crumbled feta (2-1/2 oz.)

1/2 cup pitted, coarsely chopped Kalamata olives

3 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano

In a 4-qt. saucepan, bring about 2 qt. water and 1 Tbs. salt to a boil over high heat. Add the orzo and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 8 minutes (or according to package directions). Drain but don’t rinse the pasta and pour it onto a rimmed baking sheet to cool evenly and quickly.

Heat a gas grill with all burners on high. Clean and oil the grate. Toss the eggplant and bell pepper with 2 Tbs. of the olive oil and a generous sprinkling of salt. Lay the vegetables on the grill and cook, with the grill covered, turning once, until cooked through and grill-marked, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board. Allow the vegetables to cool slightly and then cut them into small dice.

In a liquid measuring cup, whisk the vinegar with the mustard and a generous pinch of salt. Slowly whisk in the remaining 1/3 cup olive oil.

When ready to serve, combine the orzo, grilled vegetables, onion, feta, olives, and oregano in a medium bowl. Pour on the dressing, toss well, and serve.

Bacon and Smoked Paprika Deviled Eggs

This bacon-and-egg combination is a sophisticated take on a classic appetizer. The bacon adds flavor as well as texture to the filling, and you can dial the hot sauce up or down for just the right amount of heat. The recipe can easily be doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.

4 large eggs

3 Tbs. mayonnaise

1 Tbs. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Hot pepper sauce, to taste

2 slices cooked bacon, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Smoked paprika, for garnish

Prepare an ice water bath. Arrange the eggs in a single layer in a steamer basket set over boiling water. Cover the steamer with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes more.

Plunge the eggs into the ice bath. Working with one egg at a time, crack
the shell by rolling it on a flat surface. Under a stream of cold
running water, peel the shell.

Let the eggs come to room temperature.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks, transfer them to a small bowl, and mash them with the back of a spoon.

Add the mayonnaise, parsley, and hot pepper sauce and continue to mash until smooth. Stir in the bacon and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pipe or spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites. When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little smoked paprika.

Matzo Brei with Fresh Chives

Matzo brei is a simple dish of eggs, butter, and matzo (an unleavened cracker-like bread). Although typically served during Passover, it makes a delicious anytime meal. If using salted matzo, halve the amount of salt in the recipe.

4 pieces unsalted matzo (about 4 oz.)

5 large eggs, beaten

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a small saucepan, bring 1-1/4 cups of water to a boil. In a large bowl, crumble the matzo into 1-inch (or smaller) pieces and pour the boiling water over them. Let sit until the matzo softens but doesn’t turn to mush, about 20 seconds. Using a large slotted spoon, press the matzo against the bowl and pour off any excess liquid (there may not be any). Stir in the eggs, chives, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam starts to subside, add the matzo mixture. Use a heatproof spatula to gently scramble and break up the eggs, cooking until they are softly set, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Creamy Scrambled Eggs

These eggs get their creamy texture from constant stirring over low heat, not from milk or water. While adding either may help feed more people with fewer eggs, it doesn’t necessarily yield creamier results

3 large eggs

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

1 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a small bowl, whisk the eggs with 1/8 tsp. salt and a small pinch of pepper until thoroughly combined and uniform in color.

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, melt the butter over low heat and then add the eggs. Using chopsticks, a heatproof silicone spatula, or a wooden spoon, constantly stir the eggs while shaking the pan. Push the cooked portion from the edges toward the center of the pan and let the raw portion run from the center toward the edges. Break up any large bits as you go along. Cook the eggs until they’re moist but no longer runny and have formed small, creamy curds, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately.

Broccoli and Ham Quiche

The chunky filling of ham, broccoli, and Gruyère practically makes this quiche a one-dish meal.

For the crust

4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tsp. granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

4-1/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 9 pieces

1 large egg yolk

2 Tbs. cold whole or 2% milk

For the filling

8 large egg yolks

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup grated Gruyère

1/2 cup bite-size broccoli florets, steamed

1/2 cup diced ham

Make and blind bake the crust

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the flour is no longer bright white, the dough holds together when you press a clump with your fingers, and there are still flakes of butter the size of pecan halves throughout, about 1 minute. (Alternatively, use a pastry cutter or your fingers to work the butter into the dry ingredients until there are pea-size pieces of butter throughout.)

In a small bowl, whisk the yolk and milk, then add it all at once to the flour mixture. Mix on low speed (or with a fork) until the dough barely comes together, 15 to 30 seconds in the mixer, longer by hand. The dough will look shaggy at this point.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and gather it into a mound. Starting at the top of the mound and using the heel of your hand, smear a section of the dough away from you, sliding it down the side and along the work surface until most of the butter pieces are smeared into the dough. Repeat with the remaining dough in sections.

With a bench knife, gather the dough together, flatten it into a disk about 1 inch thick, and wrap it in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

On a well-floured work surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 12-inch-wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it over a 9- to 10-inch quiche dish, or a 9- to 9-1/2-inch pie plate. Without stretching it, press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the dish. Use scissors or a paring knife to trim the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch overhang.

If using a quiche dish, fold the overhang into the dish and press the sides up to create an edge that’s about 1/4 inch above the rim of the dish. If using a pie plate, fold the overhang under itself and flatten it slightly to completely cover the rim of the pie plate. Crimp decoratively.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to relax before baking.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 350°F.

Crumple a 12-inch square of parchment, flatten it, then line the crust with it. Fill the crust to the top with dried beans, gently pressing them against the sides. Bake on the hot baking sheet until the edge is a deep golden-brown and the bottom no longer looks raw (carefully pull back the parchment to check; if using a glass pie plate, you can see if the underside is golden), 40 to 45 minutes; protect the edge with a pie shield or ring of foil if it’s getting too dark. Remove the parchment and beans (and pie shield if necessary) and cool on a rack to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Make the filling and bake the quiche

In a medium bowl or large liquid measure, whisk together the yolks, cream, milk, thyme, nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Put the blind-baked crust on the rimmed baking sheet and scatter the Gruyère, broccoli, and ham over the bottom, being sure they are evenly distributed. Whisk the custard and slowly pour it into the crust, taking care not to shuffle the add-ins around too much.

Cover the edge of the crust with a pie shield or a ring of foil to keep it from browning too much. Carefully transfer the quiche on the baking sheet to the oven and bake at 325°F until the custard feels set to the touch in the center, 45 to 55 minutes. It should be golden-brown and slightly puffed and should not slosh when you jiggle it.

Let cool on a rack for at least 45 minutes, then slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Or, for the best-looking slices, cool the quiche completely, then refrigerate, slice when cold, and reheat.

Olive and Sun-Dried Tomato Quiche

Tangy feta cheese, briny olives and sun-dried tomatoes give a Greek flavor profile to the iconic French quiche.

For the crust

4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tsp. granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

4-1/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 9 pieces

1 large egg yolk

2 Tbs. cold whole or 2% milk

For the filling

8 large egg yolks

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup crumbled feta

1/4 cup pitted, slivered black olives

1/4 cup drained and chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

Make and blind bake the crust

With a bench knife, gather the dough together, flatten it into a disk about 1 inch thick, and wrap it in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to relax before baking.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 350°F.

Make the filling and bake the quiche

In a medium bowl or large liquid measure, whisk together the yolks, cream, milk, rosemary, nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Put the blind-baked crust on the rimmed baking sheet and scatter the feta, olives, and sun-dried tomatoes over the bottom, being sure they are evenly distributed. Whisk the custard and slowly pour it into the crust, taking care not to shuffle the add-ins around too much.

Deviled Eggs with Crabmeat and Cayenne

Here, the classic deviled egg filling is made even tastier with sweet crab, sherry, Worcestershire sauce and a hit of cayenne. Set these kicked-up nibbles on a platter at your next party and watch them disappear. Luckily for your guests, the recipe is easily doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.

4 large eggs

3 Tbs. mayonnaise

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. dry sherry

1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

Big pinch cayenne

2 oz. crabmeat picked over and shredded (scant 1/4 cup)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh lemon juice, to taste

Paprika for sprinkling (optional)

Plunge the eggs into the ice bath. Working with one egg at a time, crack
the shell by rolling it on a flat surface. Under a stream of cold
running water, peel the shell.

Let the eggs come to room temperature.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks, transfer them to a small bowl, and mash them with the back of a spoon.

Add the mayonnaise, mustard, sherry, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne and continue to mash until smooth. Gently stir in the crabmeat and season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Pipe or spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites. When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little paprika, if you wish.

Carrot Cake Roulade with Pineapple Cream Cheese

Carrot cake gets a new spin when the cream cheese icing becomes a luscious filling punctuated by juicy pieces of pineapple. Though fresh is best, you can use pineapple canned in its own juice.

For the filling

8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature

4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened

4 oz. (1 cup) confectioners’ sugar

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

2 cups finely chopped fresh pineapple (about 2/3 of a pineapple), drained in a sieve

For the cake

Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan

3-3/8 oz. (3/4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus 2 Tbs. for the pan

1-1/2 cups coarsely chopped carrots (from about 3 medium carrots)

1-1/2 tsp. finely grated orange zest

3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. baking soda

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 tsp. ground ginger

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

5 large eggs, separated, whites at room temperature

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar

To finish

2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar

1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

Make the filling

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese and butter on medium speed, scraping the bowl as needed, until well combined and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually sift in the confectioners’ sugar, beating and scraping until well combined. Add the vanilla and mix to blend. Reserve the pineapple separately.

Make the cake

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter an 18x13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Line the pan with parchment. Butter the parchment and sprinkle the 2 Tbs. of flour over it, shaking the pan for even coverage and knocking out the excess.

Put the carrots in a 1-quart saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well. Purée in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl, add the orange zest, and cool to room temperature

In a small bowl, sift together the 3/4 cup flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, ginger, pepper, and cloves. Add the salt and stir to combine.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks, brown sugar, and granulated sugar on medium-low speed until combined. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the carrot purée and mix on low speed, scraping down the sides as necessary, until just combined. In three additions, add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed, and scraping the bowl as needed, until just combined. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

In a clean stand mixer bowl, with a clean whisk, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until medium peaks form, about 2 minutes. Fold one-third of the beaten whites into the carrot mixture to lighten it. Gently fold in the remaining whites until the batter is evenly colored, with no streaks of white. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, gently spreading it with an offset spatula.

Bake, rotating the pan about halfway through, until golden-brown, set to the touch, and beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan, 16 to 18 minutes. Immediately loosen the cake from the sides of the pan with a paring knife. Sift the confectioners’ sugar evenly over the cake.

While the cake is still hot, lay a clean, unscented, lint-free kitchen towel over it. If the towel is long, extend one end about 1-1/2 inches beyond a short side of the cake and don’t worry about the other end. Invert a large rack or cutting board over the towel. Holding both the baking sheet and the rack with protected hands, invert the cake. Remove the baking sheet and parchment.

Using both hands and starting from the short end with the shortest towel overhang, roll the cake and the towel up together. Let cool for 30 minutes.

Carefully unroll the cake; it should look wavy and both ends should curl. (It’s OK if there are some small cracks.) Let cool completely, 10 to 15 minutes.

Using an offset spatula, spread the filling over the cake to within 1-1/2 inches of the far short edge and to within 1/2 inch of the other edges. Distribute the pineapple over the cream cheese mixture. Be sure to coax the filling into the interior of the closer curled end so that when the cake is sliced there will be filling in the center of the spiral

Reroll the cake without the towel this time. The filling may squish out of the ends a bit, which is fine.

Finish the cake

With a serrated knife and a sawing motion, trim the ends of the cake. Using 2 large spatulas, transfer the cake to a serving platter.

Combine the confectioners’ sugar and the cinnamon. Just before serving, use a fine sieve to generously dust the top of the roulade with the sugar. Slice the cake with the serrated knife and serve.

Devilish Eggs

These deviled eggs have an indulgent filling boldly flavored with all the classic tongue-tingling tastes: mustard, hot sauce, and a spike of horseradish. They are garnished old-school style with a sprinkle of paprika, giving you everything you expect from traditional deviled eggs. The only unexpected thing is that these are good for you, thanks to my secret ingredient, silken tofu, which is so creamy and rich it lets you use less egg yolk and mayonnaise. Don't tell your guests and they'll never know. Just ask my husband, a self-proclaimed deviled egg connoisseur, who couldn't stop eating them.

1 dozen large eggs

2/3 cup silken tofu, drained

1 Tbs. mayonnaise

1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

1/2 tsp. hot pepper sauce, plus more to taste

2 tsp. prepared horseradish

2 Tbs. chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 tsp. paprika

Place the eggs in a large saucepan and cover with water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 9 minutes. Remove the eggs from the water and run under cold water for about 1 minute, until cool enough to touch. Peel the eggs under cold running water. Pat them dry.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Scoop out the yolks and discard 6 of them. Set aside the whites. Place the remaining yolks in a medium bowl and mash with the tofu, mayonnaise, mustard, hot sauce, horseradish, and chives. Season with salt and pepper.

Spoon the yolk mixture into the corner of a plastic bag and snip off the end. Pipe the yolk mixture into the egg whites. Arrange on a platter and sprinkle with paprika and chives.

Peas with Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs

When faced with a cup of just-shucked fresh peas, try this simple, light dinner, cooking them with minced shallot, sage, and lemon, then spooning them over baked ricotta with crispy bread crumbs.

Olive oil

1 cup high-quality ricotta cheese, such as hand-dipped full-fat ricotta

2 to 3 Tbs. fresh bread crumbs

4 tsp. butter

2 large shallots or 1/2 small onion, finely diced (about 1/3 cup)

5 small sage leaves, minced (about 1-1/2 tsp.)

1-1/2 lbs. pod peas, shucked (about 1 cup)

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Chunk of Parmesan cheese, for grating

Heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a small baking dish; a round Spanish earthenware dish about 6 inches across is perfect for this amount.

If your ricotta is wet and milky, drain it first by putting it in a colander and pressing out the excess liquid. Pack the ricotta into the dish, drizzle a little olive oil over the surface, and bake 20 minutes or until the cheese has begun to set and brown on top. Cover the surface with the bread crumbs and continue to bake until the bread crumbs are browned and crisp, another 10 minutes. (The amount of time it takes for ricotta cheese to bake until set can vary tremendously, so it may well take longer than the times given here, especially if it wasn’t drained.)

When the cheese is finished baking, heat the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. When the butter foams, add the shallots and sage and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the peas, 1/2 cup water, and the lemon zest. Simmer until the peas are bright green and tender; the time will vary, but it should be 3 to 5 minutes. Whatever you do, don’t let them turn gray. Season with salt and a little freshly ground pepper, not too much.

Divide the ricotta between 2 plates. Spoon the peas over the cheese. Grate some Parmesan over all and enjoy while warm.

Peas with Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs

Crêpe Cake with Coffee Cream and Hazelnut Praline

A stack of crêpes layered with two sweet fillings—one creamy, one crunchy—becomes a luscious, sophisticated cake. It needs to chill before serving, so plan to make it ahead.

For the praline:

Vegetable oil, for the pan

1/2 cup granulated sugar

5 oz. (1 cup) whole blanched or skinned toasted hazelnuts

Kosher salt

For the fillings:

2 Tbs. instant espresso powder

1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche

1 lb. (2 cups) mascarpone, at room temperature

3 oz. (3/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar

For assembly:

14 8-inch crêpes at room temperature

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Make the praline:

Lightly oil a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet. Put the sugar and 1/4 cup water in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan or sauté pan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, 1 to 2 minutes. Let the mixture continue to cook without stirring until it’s a medium amber color, about 5 minutes more.

Carefully add the hazelnuts—don’t let the hot caramel splash you. Continue to cook, swirling the pan gently to coat the nuts, until the caramel is deep amber, 1 to 2 minutes more. Carefully pour the praline onto the prepared baking sheet and let cool completely.

Break the praline into pieces by smacking it on the counter or cracking it with a rolling pin. Put the pieces in a food processor, add 1/2 tsp. salt, and pulse to form a coarse powder. If you end up with a few large pieces but the rest is the right texture, remove them, dump out the powder and process again. Set aside.

Make the fillings:

In a small bowl, stir the espresso powder into 1 Tbs. of the crème fraîche until dissolved.

In a large bowl, whisk the mascarpone and the confectioners’ sugar until blended.

In a medium bowl with an electric hand mixer, beat the remaining crème fraîche on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. With a rubber spatula or big spoon, gently fold half the whipped crème fraîche into the mascarpone mixture until smooth, then fold in the second half.

Put 1-1/2 cups of the mascarpone mixture in a bowl. Gently fold in 1-1/4 cups of the praline powder. Gently fold the espresso-cream into the remaining mascarpone mixture.

Assemble the crêpe cake:

Lay 1 of the crêpes on a flat cake plate or platter that’s at least 9 inches in diameter. Spread a generous 1/4 cup of the espresso filling evenly over the crêpe, leaving a 1/4-inch border. Lay a second crêpe on top. Spread a generous 1/4 cup of the praline filling evenly over the crêpe, leaving the same border. Continue alternating the espresso and praline fillings until you’ve used all the crêpes. To avoid a “domed” cake, make the depth of the cream around the edges of the crêpes a touch deeper than in the centers, and when you add a new crêpe, lightly press down on the center of it with your fingers. Finish with a thin, even layer of the praline cream.

Carefully wrap the cake in plastic and chill for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours. The fillings will set up slightly, making the cake easier to slice.

Remove the cake from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup praline powder on top and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Greek Yogurt Parfaits with Slow-Cooked Apricot Preserves and Toasted Pistachios

These beautiful treats are delicious for breakfast, a snack, or dessert (for the latter, use vanilla yogurt). If you’ve been intimidated to make your own preserves, this super-easy recipe is the perfect place to start. It requires very little active time and, since apricots have such thin skins, there’s no need to peel the fruit. Since you’ll have about 3-1⁄2 cups of rich reddish orange preserves left over, use it as a topping for ice cream, French toast, or toast; stir it into oatmeal; or put it in pretty glass jars and offer it as gifts.

For the apricot preserves

2 large, juicy lemons, preferably organic

2-1⁄2 lb. slightly firm fresh apricots

3-1⁄2 cups granulated sugar

Pinch kosher salt

4-1⁄2 Tbs.pectin powder, such as Ball Classic Pectin (not low sugar)

For the parfaits

6 cups Greek yogurt

3⁄4 cup shelled unsalted
pistachios, tossed in a dry sauté pan with 1⁄8 tsp. salt over medium
heat for about 2 minutes (and chopped, if desired)

Make the apricot preserves

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Place a small plate in the freezer. With a vegetable peeler, gently peel the yellow zest from one of the lemons. Place on a small piece of cheesecloth and, using twine, tie into a bag. Add to the slow cooker. Squeeze 1⁄4 cup juice from the lemons into a strainer set over a small bowl (you’ll probably use about 1-1⁄2 lemons); discard the solids. Add the juice to the slow cooker.

Use your hands to split open each apricot; discard the pit. Once you’ve repeated with all of the apricots, coarsely chop the pile with a chef’s knife. Toss into a large bowl and use a potato masher to mash. Measure out 4 cups and add to the slow cooker, along with the sugar and salt. Stir well. Cover the slow cooker and cook the mixture on low heat for about 4 hours, until the fruit is broken down.

Pour into a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the pectin and boil for about 9 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pectin has dissolved and the preserves have thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and test whether the preserves have set by spooning a drop onto the chilled plate and tilting the plate. If the preserves are thick and run just a tiny bit, they’re done; if not, boil for another minute, then retest. The goal is slightly runny preserves, which are perfect for a parfait. Using a funnel, carefully transfer the hot preserves into clean glass jars. Let them stand until cool, then place in the refrigerator. The preserves will last for 2 to 3 weeks.

Make the parfaits

Into each of six parfait glasses or glass cups, spoon 1⁄2 cup Greek yogurt, then 2 Tbs. apricot preserves, then 1 Tbs. nuts. Repeat the layering and serve immediately.