Food 2: Herbs

Showing posts with label Herbs. Show all posts

Monday, December 9, 2013

Slow Sautéed Carrots with Turnips, Kale, and Parsley-Mint Sauce

These colorful vegetables caramelize in the pan, releasing steam that makes everything tender and moist. A quick, Spanish-inspired sauce adds a final flourish of flavor.

4-1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh parsley

1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh mint

1 Tbs. finely chopped pitted Spanish green olives

2 tsp. rinsed, drained, and finely chopped capers

1-1/2 tsp. sherry vinegar

1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

1/4 tsp. ground cumin

1/4 tsp. granulated sugar

Freshly ground black pepper

1-1/4 lb. medium carrots, peeled and cut into medium dice (about 3-1/2 cups)

10 oz. purple-topped turnips (about 2 medium), scrubbed, trimmed, unpeeled, cut into medium dice (about 2 cups)

Kosher salt

5 small shallots (about 5 oz.), stems trimmed but kept intact, cut lengthwise into 6 wedges each

2 oz. Tuscan kale, stemmed, leaves halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick

Combine 1-/2 Tbs. of the olive oil with the parsley, mint, olives, capers, sherry vinegar, lemon zest, cumin, sugar, and several grinds of pepper in a small bowl. Mix well and set aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, turnips, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Toss well to coat the vegetables with the oil. (The pan will look crowded.)

Reduce the heat to medium, cover partially, and cook, stirring and flipping every 3 to 4 minutes with a spatula, for about 10 minutes. Add the shallots and 1/4 tsp. salt and stir well. Cover partially and continue to cook, stirring every 1 to 2 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and well-browned, 18 to 20 minutes. Reduce the heat if the vegetables brown too quickly.

Reduce the heat to medium low and add the kale, gently mixing until wilted. Stir in the parsley-mint sauce to taste, and remove the pan from the heat. Season to taste with more salt and pepper, and serve.

Raw Fresh Tomato Sauce

In this quick sauce, hot olive oil and salt are added to diced fresh tomatoes and herbs. Be sure to do this just before tossing with cooked pasta, since the scalding oil releases the flavor of the herbs, and the salt can draw too much liquid from the tomatoes if added too soon. A raw sauce is best paired with spaghetti or spaghettini; thicker, heavier pasta shapes are not a good match.

3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored

2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil

2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

Cut a 1/4-inch slice from the tops of the tomatoes. Peel the tomatoes with a vegetable peeler, using a zig-zag motion, halve them crosswise, and remove and discard the seeds. Cut the tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the basil and oregano.

Just before serving, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a 1-quart saucepan until shimmering hot (but not smoking); pour over the tomato mixture, add 2 tsp. salt, and mix well. Toss with cooked pasta and serve.

Pork Tenderloin with Sage & Marsala Sauce

This may look like a special-occasion roast, but it’s actually perfect for a weeknight, and while the fried sage leaves are optional, do try them. They make an unusual crisp garnish and add visual appeal to this simple but elegant dish.

For the fried sage leaves (optional):

12 to 16 large, whole sage leaves, thoroughly washed and dried, stems left on

Olive oil, for frying

Kosher salt

For the pork:

1 large pork tenderloin (1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb.), trimmed and cut in half crosswise

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp. pink peppercorns, crushed (optional)

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup sweet Marsala

1 Tbs. chopped fresh sage leaves

Make the fried sage leaves, if using:

Pour enough olive oil in a heavy skillet to cover the bottom by about 1/8 inch and heat over medium heat until the oil shimmers. Add the sage leaves in a single layer and fry until brittle but still a bright green color with no browning, 15 to 30 seconds. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels and sprinkle with salt.

Cook the pork:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Season the pork tenderloin with the salt and pepper and rub it evenly with the pink peppercorns, if using.

Heat 1 Tbs. of the butter and the oil in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Put the pork in the pan and sear it until golden brown on all sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 140°F, 10 to 15 minutes. Move the pork to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil.

Pour off and discard most of the fat left in the skillet. Set the skillet over medium-high heat and add the Marsala. Bring to a vigorous simmer, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits. Simmer until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Off the heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and the chopped sage. Swirl or stir the sauce until the butter melts.

Slice the pork into 12 pieces, arrange them on a platter, and pour the hot pan sauce over the meat. Garnish with the fried sage leaves, if using.

Cooked Fresh Tomato Sauce

This sauce goes well with the smooth texture of spaghetti and penne. When I add something chunky to it, I pair it with fusilli or another shape with nooks and crannies.

3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)

Fine sea salt

Peel the tomatoes and coarsely chop them.

Put 4 Tbs. of the olive oil, the parsley, and garlic in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When the garlic and parsley begin to sizzle, add the tomatoes and 1-3/4 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down and are thick and saucy, 35 to 70 minutes, depending on how much liquid the tomatoes release. Toss with cooked pasta and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil and serve.

The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months. When you’re ready to use it, reheat and toss with cooked pasta and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil.

Tangy Rosemary and Tomato Sauce

Fresh rosemary adds its piny perfume to this intensely flavored tomato sauce.

1 Tbs. olive oil

1/4 cup minced shallot

1/4 cup minced carrot

1/4 cup minced celery

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. tomato paste

1/2 cup sherry vinegar

1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce

3-1/2 cups unsalted or lower-salt beef stock or broth; more as needed

1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 2 Tbs. cool water

1/4 cup drained capers, rinsed and chopped

2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, carrot, celery, and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are beginning to brown around the edges, about 6 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium low, add the tomato paste, and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste has thickened and is a few shades darker, another 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar, turn the heat up to high, and boil gently until thick again, about 4 minutes. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce. Add the stock and the rosemary, bring to a boil, and boil gently until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups, about 25 minutes.

Whisk in half of the cornstarch slurry and simmer, whisking, for a minute. For a thicker sauce, whisk in a bit more of the slurry; if the sauce is too thick, add a little more stock. (If making the sauce ahead, take it off the heat, let cool, and refrigerate for up to 1 day; reheat gently.) Whisk in the capers, parsley, and butter until incorporated and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Raw Fresh Tomato Sauce

3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored

2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil

2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

Grilled Chicken Livers with Lemon Sauce

I’ve converted more than one liver hater with this simple preparation, typical of Lazio.

1 lb. (500
grams) chicken livers, trimmed

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Pepper

4 Tbs. (60 grams) butter

Juice of 2 lemons

4 sprigs Italian parsley, minced

Soak four 6- to 8-inch/15- to 20-centimeter wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.

Light the grill/barbecue and let the coals or wood get very hot (if using a gas grill, heat to at least 600ºF/315ºC).

Divide the livers equally among the 4 skewers, then brush them with the oil and season them generously with salt and pepper.

Grill/barbecue the livers, turning once, until well browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan and mix in the lemon juice and parsley. When the livers are cooked, brush the lemon sauce over them thoroughly.

Quick Marinara with Toasted Garlic and Rosemary

There’s no need to open a jar of sauce when you can whisk this homemade creation together in the time it takes to cook a pot of pasta. This is a large batch, so use the extra as a base for stews, pizzas, and sautés. It will also keep in the freezer for at least three months.

Two 28-oz. cans plum tomatoes with their juices (6 cups) (preferably San Marzano)

3 Tbs. olive oil

3 medium cloves garlic, chopped

1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. granulated sugar (optional)

Strain off and discard 1/2 cup of the tomatoes’ juices (this will give the sauce a thicker consistency).Heat the oil and garlic in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat until the garlic sizzles steadily and turns golden brown in places, about 3 minutes. Add the rosemary and red pepper flakes; reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and their remaining juices, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer, cover with the lid ajar, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, so the flavors meld and the sauce reduces slightly. Using an immersion blender or working in batches in a regular blender, purée the sauce. Taste the sauce and season with more salt, pepper, or red pepper flakes if needed. If too acidic, add the sugar. Serve immediately or let cool to room temperature and refrigerate for up to one week, or freeze in zip-top bags or airtight containers.

Chocolate-Peppermint Thumbprints

For the Cookies:

5-1/4 oz. (1 cup plus 2-1/2 Tbs.) unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 oz. (1/4 cup) Dutch-processed cocoa

6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 oz. (1/2 cup) confectioners' sugar, sifted

1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1/4 tsp. table salt

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

For the Mint Filling:

4 oz. (3/4 cup) chopped semisweet chocolate (or chocolate chips)

1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces

Scant 1/4 tsp. pure peppermint extract

Make the cookies:

Sift the flour and cocoa together into a medium bowl. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the vanilla and salt; continue beating until blended and smooth, about 1 minute more. Add the flour-cocoa mixture and mix on low speed until a soft dough forms, about 1 minute. Chill the dough in the refrigerator until firm enough to roll into balls, 40 to 60 minutes.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners.

Using your palms, roll heaping teaspoonfuls of the dough into 1-inch balls. Arrange them 2 inches apart on the lined sheets. With a lightly floured thumb or index fingertip, press straight down into the middle of each ball almost to the cookie sheet to make a deep well. (Or use the end of a thick-handled wooden spoon.)

Bake one sheet at a time until the tops of the cookies look dry, 8 to 9 minutes. Gently redefine the indentations with the end of a wooden spoon. Let the cookies cool on the sheet for 5 minutes and then let them cool completely on racks.

Make the filling:

Put the chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set in a wide skillet of almost simmering water. Stir with a heatproof spatula until almost melted, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir until melted and smooth, about 30 seconds more. Stir in the mint extract. Let the filling cool, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened and a bit warmer than room temperature, 30 to 40 minutes. Spoon the filling into a small pastry bag with a small plain tip. (Or use a small plastic bag and cut a tiny bit off a bottom corner of the bag.) Pipe the filling into the center of each cookie. Cool completely before serving or storing. The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for 4 to 5 days.

Individual Toasted Coconut & Lemongrass Bread Puddings

Several textures play well together here: The rich custard and soft bread are perfect foils for the crisp, toasty coconut.

1 cup unsweetened dried shredded coconut

6 cups 1/2-inch-cubed white sandwich bread, preferably Pepperidge Farm Hearty White (about 8 slices)

2 cups half-and-half

13-1/2- or 14-oz. can coconut milk

3 stalks fresh lemongrass, trimmed of root ends and tops, leaving 4-inch-long sections, thinly sliced crosswise

Kosher salt

6 large eggs

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 Tbs. softened unsalted butter for the ramekins

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Spread the coconut in a thin layer on a large rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven, stirring twice, until dark brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Put the bread cubes on the same baking sheet, spread in a single layer, and bake, stirring halfway through, until a pale golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes total. Let the bread cool on the baking sheet. (Turn the oven off.)

Meanwhile, in a 2- or 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the half-and-half, coconut milk, 2/3 cup of the toasted coconut, the lemongrass, and a pinch of salt to a simmer. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 45 minutes. Pour through a coarse strainer set over a medium glass measuring cup or bowl, pressing hard on the solids to extract as much of the liquid as possible.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Slowly pour in the warm half-and-half mixture, whisking constantly. Toss in the bread and push it down with a spoon to submerge it. Let stand for 30 minutes, or until the bread is softened. Butter eight 8-fl.-oz. ramekins. Divide the bread mixture evenly among the buttered ramekins and pour any remaining custard over the top of each.

Heat the oven to 325°F. Have ready a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to accommodate the ramekins. Put on a kettle of water to boil for the water bath.

Set the ramekins in the roasting pan and put it in the oven. Carefully pour enough boiling water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custard is set, 30 to 35 minutes. (To check, cut into a pudding with a paring knife and peek into the center—the custard shouldn’t be runny.) Carefully remove the ramekins from the pan and let them cool slightly on a wire rack.

Sprinkle the puddings with the remaining 1/3 cup toasted coconut and serve.

Tangy Rosemary and Tomato Sauce

Fresh rosemary adds its piny perfume to this intensely flavored tomato sauce.

1 Tbs. olive oil

1/4 cup minced shallot

1/4 cup minced carrot

1/4 cup minced celery

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. tomato paste

1/2 cup sherry vinegar

1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce

3-1/2 cups unsalted or lower-salt beef stock or broth; more as needed

1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 2 Tbs. cool water

1/4 cup drained capers, rinsed and chopped

2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

Minty Herb-Feta Sauce

A little bit of feta makes this fresh herb sauce richer and adds some tangy flavor, too.

1 cup (1 oz.) packed fresh mint

1 cup (1 oz.) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup (1/2 oz.) packed fresh cilantro

1/2 cup pine nuts

1 medium clove garlic, smashed

2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Kosher salt

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup (1 oz.) crumbled feta

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more as needed

Pulse the mint, parsley, cilantro, pine nuts, garlic, lemon zest, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a food processor into a coarse purée. While pulsing, add the oil through the feed tube and pulse until combined. Add the feta and lemon juice and pulse a few more times; you want tiny bits of feta visible. Season to taste with more salt or lemon juice.

Horseradish-Dill Sauce

Horseradish cream is a classic pairing with beef. In this version, fresh dill contributes some sassy flavor while a hard-cooked egg adds richness and texture. Save any leftovers for roast beef sandwiches.

5 whole scallions, sliced

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup prepared horseradish, drained

2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce; more as needed

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more as needed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup sour cream or crème fraîche

1 hard-cooked large egg, finely chopped

Pulse the scallions and dill in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the olive oil, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and pulse until just blended.

Transfer to a bowl, stir in the sour cream, and then fold in the egg. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, lemon juice, or Worcestershire.

Grilled Chicken Livers with Lemon Sauce

I’ve converted more than one liver hater with this simple preparation, typical of Lazio.

1 lb. (500
grams) chicken livers, trimmed

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Pepper

4 Tbs. (60 grams) butter

Juice of 2 lemons

4 sprigs Italian parsley, minced

Soak four 6- to 8-inch/15- to 20-centimeter wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.

Light the grill/barbecue and let the coals or wood get very hot (if using a gas grill, heat to at least 600ºF/315ºC).

Divide the livers equally among the 4 skewers, then brush them with the oil and season them generously with salt and pepper.

Grill/barbecue the livers, turning once, until well browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan and mix in the lemon juice and parsley. When the livers are cooked, brush the lemon sauce over them thoroughly.

Raw Fresh Tomato Sauce

3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored

2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil

2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

Green Beans with Parsley and Sesame Tahini Sauce

Instead of tossing your green beans with this lemony tahini sauce, drizzle it on top. This way, the sauce won’t dull the beans’ color.

1 lb. green beans, trimmed

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs. tahini

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 minced medium clove garlic

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a boil
over high heat and cook the green beans until crisp-tender, about
3 minutes; drain and cool under cold running water.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and
salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the green
beans with the dressing, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.

Poached Flounder with Mint Beurre Blanc

This classic shallow-poached fish is served with a minty French butter sauce. It’s delicious with a simple rice pilaf and tender green spring vegetables like peas or baby spinach.

6 skinless flounder fillets (1-1/2 lb. total)

1/2 tsp. ground ginger

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3-1/2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh spearmint or ginger mint leaves

1/4 cup minced shallots

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 Tbs. heavy cream

2 oz. (4 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 slices

1 Tbs. thinly sliced chives

Lay the fish fillets skinned side up on a cutting board. Slice each fillet in half lengthwise to make 12 strips. In a small bowl mix the ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over all the fish and then sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the chopped mint. Roll each strip into a coil, starting with the fatter end and aligning the roll along the cut edge. Secure with a toothpick, pushing it into the thin end and through the other side.

Sprinkle the shallots over the bottom of a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan. Arrange the fish coils cut edge down in the pan. Pour in the wine and 1/3 cup water. Turn the heat to medium high and bring the liquid to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover, and poach the fish until cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fish to a warm plate. Tent with foil while finishing the sauce.

Increase the heat to high and boil the liquid until it’s reduced to about 3 Tbs. (It should just barely cover the bottom of the pan.) Add the cream and boil for 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in 2 slices of the cold butter, the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. mint, and the chives. When the butter is almost melted, add another slice and whisk until mostly melted. Repeat with the remaining butter, 1 slice at a time. (Take care not to overheat the sauce or it will separate.) Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove the toothpicks from each piece of fish. Serve the fish (3 pieces per serving) drizzled with the sauce.

Creamy Lemon and Herb Sauce

Pulverizing the herbs makes their flavor stronger, a good thing for a cold sauce where flavors can be muted.

1/2 cup (1/2 oz.) coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 cup (1/2 oz.) coarsely chopped fresh dill

3 whole scallions, sliced

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more as needed

8 oz. (1 cup) sour cream or crème fraÎche

Pulse the cilantro, dill, scallions, lemon zest, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. of pepper in a food processor until finely chopped. With the motor running, pour the olive oil and lemon juice through the feed tube and pulse until the mixture has a pesto-like consistency. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the sour cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lemon juice.

Mint and Pine Nut Pesto with Gemelli and Asparagus

The combination of mint, scallions, and asparagus makes this dish perfect for spring. You could also spread this pesto on top of chicken breasts or a firm-fleshed fish (anything from cod to salmon would work) and roast, or use it as a spread on sandwiches or crostini.

For the pesto

6 scallions (dark and light green parts only), trimmed and thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

1/3 cup firmly packed fresh mint, chopped

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the pasta

1 lb. gemelli

3/4 lb. asparagus, ends snapped off, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice, more to taste

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Make the pesto

Put the scallions, Parmigiano, pine nuts, and mint in a food processor and process until finely chopped. With the processor on, pour the oil down the feed tube in a steady stream, so the mixture thins into a slightly loose paste. Add more oil if needed. Add 1/2 tsp. salt and 3/4 tsp. pepper and pulse once more.

Make the pasta

Bring a large (6-quart) pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly tender, about 2 minutes less than the package timing. Add the asparagus and cook with the pasta until both are tender, about 2 minutes more. Drain well and toss with the pesto and lemon juice. Add more lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve sprinkled with black pepper and the Parmigiano.

Chimichurri Sauce for Beef Tenderloin

Based on an Argentine sauce for grilled meats, this zingy condiment, originally developed to accompany a Sear-Roasted Beef Tenderloin, brightens up any wintertime roast.

1/4 cup coarsely chopped shallot

2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more as needed

Kosher salt

1 cup (1 oz.) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 cup (1 oz.) packed fresh basil

1 Tbs. fresh oregano

2 small cloves garlic, lightly crushed

1 tsp. whole black peppercorns, cracked; more, freshly ground

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Put the shallot, vinegar, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a small bowl and let sit for about 30 minutes. Transfer to a food processor, add the parsley, basil, oregano, garlic, and peppercorns and pulse a few times into a coarse purée. While pulsing, add the oil through the feed tube and pulse until combined. Season to taste with salt, freshly ground black pepper, or vinegar.