Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber

Mango, ginger, cilantro and rice vinegar give a Southeast Asian twist to this rice salad. The spicy-and-cool flavor profile makes it a perfect partner for Tandoori Chicken Legs or Spicy Thai Shrimp Kebabs.

• 
  
   2-1/2
  cups basmati rice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher
  salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs.
  extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups diced mango (1/2-inch dice)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups diced peeled cucumber (1/2-inch dice)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and stems
  
  

Rinse the rice under cold water and drain. Bring 7 cups of water
to a boil in
a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add 3/4 tsp. salt. Add the rice, reduce the heat to a
simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water
as necessary to keep the rice covered, until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and rinse the
rice with cold water to stop the cooking.

Transfer the rice to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the
oil, and toss lightly to coat. Spread the rice on the baking sheet and cool completely at
room temperature or in the refrigerator.

Put the vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup of
olive oil. Whisk in the sesame oil and ginger. Taste and season with salt,
pepper, and additional vinegar or olive oils needed.

Put the cooked and cooled rice in a large serving bowl and toss to
break up any clumps. Add the mango, cucumber, scallions, cilantro, and 1/2 cup
vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, pepper, and serve.

Green Papaya Salad

There are many versions of this spicy north-eastern Thai vegetable salad that is traditionally made, crushed and dressed in a wooden pestle and mortar. Green papaya salad is always eaten with rice: steamed sticky rice or occasionally jasmine rice dressed with coconut cream and sugar. A stall selling grilled pork or sweet pork can usually be found nearby--it is the perfect companion.

• 
  
  3 garlic cloves, peeled
  
  


• 
  
  Good pinch of salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. roasted peanuts, coarsely crushed
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. dried prawns, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  2 slices or small wedges of lime (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  6 cherry tomatoes, quartered
  
  


• 
  
  2 snake beans, cut into 1 cm (1/2 in.) lengths
  
  


• 
  
  4-6 bird’s eye chiles (scuds), to taste
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups shredded green papaya, from about 1 small papaya
  
  


• 
  
  3-4 Tbs. shaved palm sugar, to taste
  
  


• 
  
  2-3 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  2-3 Tbs. lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. tamarind water
  
  


• 
  
  Steamed rice and raw vegetables, to serve
  
  

Using a pestle and mortar, pound the garlic with the salt then add the peanuts and dried prawns and pound to a coarse paste. Add the lime (if using), bruising it with the pestle, then add the cherry tomatoes and beans to the mortar and carefully work everything together. Next add the bird’s eye chiles, barely crushing them. The more they are pounded, the hotter the dish--and how hot you want it is up to you. Add them earlier if you’re after revenge.


Finally, add the green papaya and lightly bruise with the pestle, while turning and tossing the mixture with a large spoon held in your other hand. Season the salad with palm sugar, fish sauce, lime juice and tamarind water. It should taste sweet, sour, hot and salty.


Place about 1 cup of steamed rice on each plate. Spoon over the green papaya salad and eat with fresh raw vegetables, such as cabbage, green beans and betel leaves.

Spicy Slaw with Radicchio & Green Mango

If you like crunchy slaw, serve this right away. If you prefer a softer cabbage texture, let the slaw rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

• 
  
  2-1/2 Tbs. rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups thinly sliced radicchio (about one-half head)
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups thinly sliced Savoy cabbage (about one-quarter head)
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups thinly sliced red cabbage (about one-quarter small head)
  
  


• 
  
  1 heaping cup matchstick-cut green (unripe) mango (about one-half mango)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium scallions (white and light-green parts only), thinly sliced on the diagonal
  
  

In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, mayonnaise, olive oil, soy sauce, sugar, ginger, and serrano. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put the radicchio, both types of cabbage, mango, and scallions in a large bowl. Add the dressing and toss. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Carrot Cake Roulade with Pineapple Cream Cheese

Carrot cake gets a new spin when the cream cheese icing becomes a luscious filling punctuated by juicy pieces of pineapple. Though fresh is best, you can use pineapple canned in its own juice.

For the filling

• 
  
  8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1 cup) confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups finely chopped fresh pineapple (about 2/3 of a pineapple), drained in a sieve
  
  

For the cake

• 
  
  Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  3-3/8 oz. (3/4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus 2 Tbs. for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups coarsely chopped carrots (from about 3 medium carrots)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. baking soda
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  5 large eggs, separated, whites at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
  
  

To finish

• 
  
  2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  

Make the filling

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese and butter on medium speed, scraping the bowl as needed, until well combined and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually sift in the confectioners’ sugar, beating and scraping until well combined. Add the vanilla and mix to blend. Reserve the pineapple separately.

Make the cake

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter an 18x13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Line the pan with parchment. Butter the parchment and sprinkle the 2 Tbs. of flour over it, shaking the pan for even coverage and knocking out the excess.

Put the carrots in a 1-quart saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well. Purée in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl, add the orange zest, and cool to room temperature

In a small bowl, sift together the 3/4 cup flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, ginger, pepper, and cloves. Add the salt and stir to combine.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks, brown sugar, and granulated sugar on medium-low speed until combined. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the carrot purée and mix on low speed, scraping down the sides as necessary, until just combined. In three additions, add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed, and scraping the bowl as needed, until just combined. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

In a clean stand mixer bowl, with a clean whisk, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until medium peaks form, about 2 minutes. Fold one-third of the beaten whites into the carrot mixture to lighten it. Gently fold in the remaining whites until the batter is evenly colored, with no streaks of white. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, gently spreading it with an offset spatula.

Bake, rotating the pan about halfway through, until golden-brown, set to the touch, and beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan, 16 to 18 minutes. Immediately loosen the cake from the sides of the pan with a paring knife. Sift the confectioners’ sugar evenly over the cake.

While the cake is still hot, lay a clean, unscented, lint-free kitchen towel over it. If the towel is long, extend one end about 1-1/2 inches beyond a short side of the cake and don’t worry about the other end. Invert a large rack or cutting board over the towel. Holding both the baking sheet and the rack with protected hands, invert the cake. Remove the baking sheet and parchment.

Using both hands and starting from the short end with the shortest towel overhang, roll the cake and the towel up together. Let cool for 30 minutes.

Carefully unroll the cake; it should look wavy and both ends should curl. (It’s OK if there are some small cracks.) Let cool completely, 10 to 15 minutes.

Using an offset spatula, spread the filling over the cake to within 1-1/2 inches of the far short edge and to within 1/2 inch of the other  edges. Distribute the pineapple over the cream cheese mixture. Be sure to coax the filling into the interior of the  closer curled end so that when the cake is sliced there will be filling in the center of the spiral

Reroll the cake without the towel this time. The filling may squish out of the ends a bit, which is fine.

Finish the cake

With a serrated knife and a sawing motion, trim the ends of the cake. Using 2 large spatulas, transfer the cake to a serving platter.

Combine the confectioners’ sugar and the cinnamon. Just before serving, use a fine sieve to generously dust the top of the roulade with the sugar. Slice the cake with the serrated knife and serve.

Glazed Pork Loin with Pineapple-Scallion Chutney

This twist on the classic pairing of pineapple and ham uses the fruit in a delicious maple-infused glaze and a sweet-spicy chutney for roast pork. If possible, use grade B maple syrup in the glaze; it has a more robust flavor than lighter grades.

• 
  
  2 large cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. toasted coriander seeds, ground
  
  


• 
  
  1 3-lb. boneless pork loin roast
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium fresh pineapple (about 3-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup maple syrup, preferably grade B
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. sherry vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 large shallot, minced
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch ground cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1 large scallion, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
  
  

Peel and coarsely chop the garlic. Sprinkle it with a generous pinch of salt and mash it to a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the oil, lemon zest, coriander, and 1 Tbs. salt.

Put the pork on a large rimmed baking sheet, pat dry with paper towels, and rub all over with the salt mixture. Let sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Roast the pork until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 130°F, about 50 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel and core the pineapple. Cut half into small dice and roughly chop the other half. Purée the roughly chopped pineapple in a blender, then strain it through a fine strainer, pressing on the solids with a spoon, to yield about 3/4 cup juice. In a small saucepan, combine the strained pineapple juice and maple syrup and cook over medium-high heat until reduced to 1/3 cup, 12 to 15 minutes. The liquid will become very bubbly as it reduces; lower the heat as necessary.

Set aside all but 2 Tbs. of the reduced liquid (this will be your glaze). Add the vinegar, shallot, cayenne, and a pinch of salt to the 2 Tbs. liquid remaining in the saucepan and cook over medium heat just until the shallot begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the diced pineapple and scallion whites and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the pineapple softens and releases some of its juice, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

When the pork reaches 130°F, brush it with some of the glaze and continue to roast, brushing with more glaze every 5 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 145°F, about 20 minutes more. Let rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.

When ready to serve, stir the scallion greens and cilantro into the chutney. Slice the pork into 1/2-inch-thick rounds and serve with the chutney.

Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet

Here, honey replaces the sugar syrup that usually sweetens sorbet, lending it a deeper flavor. Be sure to purée the sorbet mixture until completely smooth for the best texture. 

• 
  
  1 or 2 large oranges, zest finely grated to yield 1/2 tsp. and squeezed to yield 1/2 cup juice
  
   
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups chopped, peeled, very ripe mango (from about 3 large)
  
  
   
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  1/2 cup mild honey (like clover)

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh mint
   
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  

Combine all of the ingredients with 1/2 cup water in a blender and purée until completely smooth. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

 

Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight container and freeze for a firmer texture. 
 

Avocado, Mango, and Pineapple Salad with Pistachios and Pickled Shallots

A shower of peppery greens balances the sweetness of the mango in this salad, and lets the avocado shine through.

• 
  
  1 medium shallot (1 to 2 oz.), sliced into very thin rings
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. Champagne or rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. red wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups baby arugula or watercress
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup roasted, salted pistachios, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium firm-ripe avocados (6 to 7 oz. each), pitted, peeled, and sliced lengthwise 1/4-inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  2 kiwis, peeled, halved, and sliced 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium mango seeded, peeled, and sliced lengthwise 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)
  
  

In a medium bowl, toss the shallot with the Champagne vinegar and a pinch of salt and set aside for 10 minutes, stirring once. Drain the shallot into a small bowl and reserve the vinegar. Whisk the olive oil and red wine vinegar into the shallot vinegar.


In a medium bowl, toss 1 Tbs. of the vinaigrette with the pickled shallots, arugula or watercress, pistachios, mint, basil, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Arrange the avocado, kiwi, mango, and pineapple on a platter. Drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette and season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with the arugula mixture and serve immediately.

Spicy Mango Salsa

This tangy salsa’s heat comes from fiery habaneros, available in most supermarkets; if you can’t find them, go with jalapeños instead. When working with the chiles, it is a good idea to wear gloves, or wash your hands and knife thoroughly after touching them. The bright color and sweetness of the mango in the salsa isn’t overpowered by the onion and red pepper, which are quickly seared over high heat to mellow their flavor and texture. The salsa goes great with grilled chicken, steaks, or a full-flavored fish like salmon or tuna.

• 
  
  1/4 cup canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium red onion, finely diced (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1-1/4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 mangos (about 1-1/2 lbs.), pitted and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1 habanero (or 1 to 2 jalapeños), stemmed, seeded, and very finely diced (about 1 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  

Heat the oil in a medium (10-inch) skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion and red pepper; sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables just start to brown and soften a bit, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large plate to cool. Once cool, transfer to a medium bowl and toss with the mangos, cilantro, habanero, and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season the salsa with the remaining Tbs. of lime juice and salt if needed, and serve.

Broiled Pineapple with Lime Sour Cream and Macadamias

This twist on broiled grapefruit comes together in no time, especially if you buy a pineapple that’s already peeled and cored; they’re often sold in the refrigerator case of the grocery store.

• 
  
  1 large ripe pineapple, peeled, cored, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick rings
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup chopped macadamia nuts (preferably salted), toasted
  
  

Position an oven rack 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.

Arrange the pineapple rings in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Blot dry with paper towels and then sprinkle with the sugar. Broil until the sugar is melted and browned, about 5 minutes, rotating the baking sheet as necessary for even broiling.

Meanwhile, mix the sour cream and lime juice in a small bowl.

Transfer the pineapple to serving plates, top with a dollop of the sour cream, and sprinkle with the macadamia nuts.

Carrot Cake Roulade with Pineapple Cream Cheese

Carrot cake gets a new spin when the cream cheese icing becomes a luscious filling punctuated by juicy pieces of pineapple. Though fresh is best, you can use pineapple canned in its own juice.

For the filling

• 
  
  8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1 cup) confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups finely chopped fresh pineapple (about 2/3 of a pineapple), drained in a sieve
  
  

For the cake

• 
  
  Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  3-3/8 oz. (3/4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus 2 Tbs. for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups coarsely chopped carrots (from about 3 medium carrots)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. baking soda
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  5 large eggs, separated, whites at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
  
  

To finish

• 
  
  2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  

Make the filling

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese and butter on medium speed, scraping the bowl as needed, until well combined and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually sift in the confectioners’ sugar, beating and scraping until well combined. Add the vanilla and mix to blend. Reserve the pineapple separately.

Make the cake

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter an 18x13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Line the pan with parchment. Butter the parchment and sprinkle the 2 Tbs. of flour over it, shaking the pan for even coverage and knocking out the excess.

Put the carrots in a 1-quart saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well. Purée in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl, add the orange zest, and cool to room temperature

In a small bowl, sift together the 3/4 cup flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, ginger, pepper, and cloves. Add the salt and stir to combine.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks, brown sugar, and granulated sugar on medium-low speed until combined. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the carrot purée and mix on low speed, scraping down the sides as necessary, until just combined. In three additions, add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed, and scraping the bowl as needed, until just combined. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

In a clean stand mixer bowl, with a clean whisk, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until medium peaks form, about 2 minutes. Fold one-third of the beaten whites into the carrot mixture to lighten it. Gently fold in the remaining whites until the batter is evenly colored, with no streaks of white. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, gently spreading it with an offset spatula.

Bake, rotating the pan about halfway through, until golden-brown, set to the touch, and beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan, 16 to 18 minutes. Immediately loosen the cake from the sides of the pan with a paring knife. Sift the confectioners’ sugar evenly over the cake.

While the cake is still hot, lay a clean, unscented, lint-free kitchen towel over it. If the towel is long, extend one end about 1-1/2 inches beyond a short side of the cake and don’t worry about the other end. Invert a large rack or cutting board over the towel. Holding both the baking sheet and the rack with protected hands, invert the cake. Remove the baking sheet and parchment.

Using both hands and starting from the short end with the shortest towel overhang, roll the cake and the towel up together. Let cool for 30 minutes.

Carefully unroll the cake; it should look wavy and both ends should curl. (It’s OK if there are some small cracks.) Let cool completely, 10 to 15 minutes.

Using an offset spatula, spread the filling over the cake to within 1-1/2 inches of the far short edge and to within 1/2 inch of the other  edges. Distribute the pineapple over the cream cheese mixture. Be sure to coax the filling into the interior of the  closer curled end so that when the cake is sliced there will be filling in the center of the spiral

Reroll the cake without the towel this time. The filling may squish out of the ends a bit, which is fine.

Finish the cake

With a serrated knife and a sawing motion, trim the ends of the cake. Using 2 large spatulas, transfer the cake to a serving platter.

Combine the confectioners’ sugar and the cinnamon. Just before serving, use a fine sieve to generously dust the top of the roulade with the sugar. Slice the cake with the serrated knife and serve.

Spicy Mango Ice Pops (Paletas de Mango Enchilado)

Mango and chile has become one of the most common combinations in sweets in Mexico; in fact, when you eat fresh mango, powdered chile of some kind is always on the table. The chile powder you use is a matter of taste. It isn't just about the heat; it's also about the flavor. I particularly like the piquín chile from Oaxaca, but feel free to substitute it for ground guajillo, chipotle, or your personal favorite.

• 
  
  3/4 cup sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried arbol chiles, with seeds, broken into pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups fresh mango purée
  
  


• 
  
  3 small limes, juiced
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 medium mangoes, diced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 3/4 cup ground piquín or other chile powder (depending on how spicy you want them)
  
  

Combine the sugar, water, and chile pieces in a small pot and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, and strain. Stir in the mango purée and the lime juice. In a medium bowl, toss together the mango pieces with the chile powder.


Divide the chile-coated mango chunks among ice pop molds or wax-lined paper cups, then pour the mango purée mixture over the top. Freeze until beginning to set, 3 to 4 hours. Insert the sticks. Let freeze for at least 3 hours more, and then unmold as directed or peel off the paper cups.


If you prefer to use the chile powder on the outside, unmold the pops and allow to thaw slightly (so the chile powder will stick to it), place the chile powder in a shallow bowl, then dip the pops in to coat.

Pineapple-Ginger Brown Sugar Crisp

Fruit crisps usually showcase apples or stone fruit, but they’re just as good, if not better, made with pineapple. As it bakes, the pineapple releases much of its moisture, so the crisp comes out extra juicy and full of sweet-tart flavor. Serve with vanilla ice cream.  

• 
  
  1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  7/8 oz. (1/4 cup) old-fashioned rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant)
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 large fresh pineapple (about 4-1/4 lb.), peeled, cored, cut lengthwise into eighths, then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. cornstarch
  
  

Tip:

See the Test Kitchen post to learn how to prep a pineapple.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Combine the brown sugar, flour, oats, butter, nutmeg, and 1/8 tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Using your fingers, rub in the butter until it’s about the size of small peas and the mixture resembles coarse, crumbly breadcrumbs; it should hold together when squeezed. Refrigerate, uncovered, while you make the filling.

Put the pineapple in a large bowl. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, ginger, and a pinch of salt and whisk to blend. Stir the lime mixture into the pineapple. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the pineapple and stir again.

Transfer the pineapple to a 9-inch square baking dish and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and continue to bake until the fruit is bubbling around the edges and the top is golden-brown and crisp, about 15  minutes more. Let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

White Sticky Rice with Mango

This dessert is a favorite of the Thais--and quickly becomes so to anyone who tastes it. The coconut cream must be thick and creamy. Making your own is best, but if you use the canned stuff, don't shake the can and use the solid plug of coconut cream at the top.

For the sweet coconut cream:

• 
  
  1/2 cup coconut cream
  
  


• 
  
  ½ tsp. rice flour, mixed with a little water or coconut cream to form a paste
  
  


• 
  
  good pinch of salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 pandanus leaf (optional, but desirable)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. white sugar, more to taste
  
  

Tip:

You can make your own coconut cream (aka thick coconut milk) or use the thick, solidified portion from a can of coconut milk

For the sticky rice:

• 
  
  1 cup white sticky rice
  
  


• 
  
  6-8 Thai jasmine flowers  (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  2-3 pandanus leaves (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup castor (superfine) sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2  tsp. salt, to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thick coconut cream
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. yellow mung beans
  
  


• 
  
  2 ripe mangoes
  
  


• 
  
  sweet coconut cream (see below)
  
  

Make the sweet coconut cream:

Mix the coconut cream with the flour paste in a small saucepan or brass wok, stirring rigorously to incorporate. Add the salt and pandanus leaf, if using, then bring to the boil, stirring constantly to ensure the cream does not separate. When the coconut cream has thickened, add the sugar and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool before serving.

Make the sticky rice:

Rinse the rice carefully to remove any excess starch without breaking the grains. Soak it overnight, with 2-3 Thai jasmine flowers, if possible.

The next day, drain the rice, rinse and place in a metal steamer; normally the raw grains of rice cling together, so they rarely fall through the holes, but if you're feeling cautious line the steamer with some rinsed muslin (cheesecloth). Make sure the rice is not piled too high in the center, nor too widely spread. Add a pandanus leaf or two to the water in the base of the steamer, if you like, then steam the rice until tender (test some grains from the area where the mound of rice is deepest); this should take about 45 minutes to 1 hour. During this time, make sure that there is plenty of water in the steamer; if you need to top up the water level, use boiling water so as not to interrupt the steaming. When you check on the rice, wipe dry the inside of the steamer lid before replacing it.

Meanwhile, stir the sugar and salt into the coconut cream until dissolved. When the rice is cooked, remove from the steamer and place in a glass or ceramic bowl, then pour over the prepared coconut cream and stir to incorporate fully. (It is important that the rice is still piping hot, so it will more completely absorb the coconut cream and become rich and glistening.) If you like, you can plunge a knotted pandanus leaf into the rice and dot the surface with a few Thai jasmine flowers. Cover and set aside in a warm place for 15 minutes before serving. Some cooks like to swaddle the bowl in a towel to keep it warm and snug!

While the rice is settling, soak the mung beans in water for about 5 minutes then drain well. Dry-roast the mung beans over a low heat in a small, heavy-based pan or a wok, shaking often, until they are golden brown and smell nutty. Remove from the heat and, if necessary, crush coarsely using a pestle and mortar or an electric grinder.

To serve:

Peel the mangoes with a sharp knife, then cut the flesh away from the central stone into cheeks. Cut each cheek crosswise into five or six slices.

Divide the rice among four bowls, then place a sliced mango cheek alongside and cover with a spoonful or two of sweetened coconut cream. Sprinkle with the mung beans and serve.

Spicy Mango Ice Pops (Paletas de Mango Enchilado)

Mango and chile has become one of the most common combinations in sweets in Mexico; in fact, when you eat fresh mango, powdered chile of some kind is always on the table. The chile powder you use is a matter of taste. It isn't just about the heat; it's also about the flavor. I particularly like the piquín chile from Oaxaca, but feel free to substitute it for ground guajillo, chipotle, or your personal favorite.

• 
  
  3/4 cup sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried arbol chiles, with seeds, broken into pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups fresh mango purée
  
  


• 
  
  3 small limes, juiced
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 medium mangoes, diced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 3/4 cup ground piquín or other chile powder (depending on how spicy you want them)
  
  

Combine the sugar, water, and chile pieces in a small pot and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, and strain. Stir in the mango purée and the lime juice. In a medium bowl, toss together the mango pieces with the chile powder.


Divide the chile-coated mango chunks among ice pop molds or wax-lined paper cups, then pour the mango purée mixture over the top. Freeze until beginning to set, 3 to 4 hours. Insert the sticks. Let freeze for at least 3 hours more, and then unmold as directed or peel off the paper cups.


If you prefer to use the chile powder on the outside, unmold the pops and allow to thaw slightly (so the chile powder will stick to it), place the chile powder in a shallow bowl, then dip the pops in to coat.

Pineapple-Bourbon Chutney

This sweet-tangy condiment provides a wonderful balance to bites of smoky ham, and it’s also delightful on its own.

• 
  
  1 fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced (about 4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, chopped (about 1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup bourbon or dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

In a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, combine all the ingredients with 1/4 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 1-1/4 hours. Add more salt and pepper to taste.

Tea-Smoked Shrimp Salad with Mango

Smoking food in a wok over a bed of tea leaves, rice, and sugar is a classic Chinese technique, but the flavors of this salad are decidedly western and very refreshing.

• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. peanut oil; more for the rack
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled, deveined, and patted dry
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 tsp. minced garlic (from 3 medium cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup loose black tea leaves, preferably Lapsang Souchong
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 large head Boston lettuce, leaves torn into bite-size pieces (about 6 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
  
  


• 
  
  1 ripe yellow mango (preferably Ataulfo or Champagne), peeled and cut into bite-size pieces (about 3/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. plain rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  

Tip:

Don’t use tea from a tea bag here; bagged tea tends to be finer and more
powdery than loose tea and can lead to burning, not smoking.

Tip:

• Be sure to thoroughly clean the wok before setting it up for smoking so there are no stuck-on bits of food that could burn.
• If you smoke your food for too long, it can develop a bitter flavor.

In a small bowl, combine 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottom wok (preferably seasoned carbon steel) over medium-high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Add the peanut oil, swirl to coat, and then add the shrimp, spreading them evenly in a single layer on the bottom and sides of the wok. Let the shrimp cook, undisturbed, for 1 minute, then flip and cook until they’re just pink, about 1 minute more. Sprinkle the salt mixture and 2 tsp. of the garlic over the shrimp and stir-fry until just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate. Clean the wok and let it cool.

Line the inside of the cleaned wok with heavy-duty aluminum foil, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Be sure the foil sits flat against the bottom of the wok; otherwise, the tea-rice mixture will not smoke. Sprinkle first the rice, then the tea, and then the sugar evenly over the bottom of the wok. Line the inside of the wok’s lid with enough heavy-duty aluminum foil to leave a 1-inch overhang; fold the overhang up over the edge of the lid.

Put a lightly oiled 10-inch round metal rack in the center of the wok over the tea-rice mixture. Arrange the shrimp on the rack in a single layer.

Open the windows and turn the exhaust fan on high. Heat the wok over high heat, waiting until the tea mixture emits a few faint wisps of smoke, 1 to 4 minutes. Cover the wok tightly, crimp the foil overhangs together to seal in the smoke, lower the heat to medium low, and smoke for 2-1/2 minutes. If it smells like the tea is burning, lower the heat to low or remove the wok from the burner.

Uncover the wok and transfer the shrimp to a plate. The smoking may impart a slight hint of color to the shrimp.

In a large bowl, combine the lettuce, cherry tomatoes, and mango. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, cilantro, mustard, the remaining 1/2 tsp. garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil.

Toss the salad with just enough dressing to coat. Top the salad with the shrimp and serve.

Crisp Tea-Smoked Duck with Green Mango and Basil Salad

Searing the duck breasts in a skillet after smoking gives them delicious crisp skin. You can substitute apples, plums, or peaches for the mangos.
Extra: To learn more, watch a video series where Robert Danhi demonstrates his tea-smoking technique.

For the pan-roasted peanuts

• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted peanuts
  
  

For the tea-smoked duck

• 
  
  1 medium orange
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup whole-leaf lychee tea
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rice, preferably jasmine
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 large or 4 small boneless duck breasts (about 2 lb. total )
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the mango-basil salad

• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium clove garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 small shallot, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 red serrano chile (or other small hot red chile), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. light brown palm sugar (or light brown sugar); more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 large unripe mangos, peeled and cut into 1/8 -inch-thick slices
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup roughly chopped basil, preferably Thai or Asian basil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Roast the peanuts

Cook the peanuts in an 8-inch skillet over low heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Coarsely chop the peanuts. Set aside.

Smoke the duck

Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest from the orange in 1x2-inch strips, avoiding as much of the white pith as possible. Reserve the orange for another use. Put the orange zest, tea, rice, and sugar in the center of a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. (If using thinner foil, use 2 or 3 layers.) Fold the foil loosely to form a flat packet.


Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Clean and oil the grill grate; set aside. Set the tea-smoking packet directly on the hot coals or on top of a metal burner shield. Put the grate back on the grill and close the lid. On a charcoal grill, leave the vents partially open and wait for smoke to rise from the vents. On a gas grill, wait 10 minutes, then open the lid to check for smoke. If there is none, close the lid and check again in a few minutes.


Meanwhile, with a sharp knife, trim any silver-skin from the duck breasts and score the skin in a diamond pattern without cutting all the way through to the meat. Pat dry with paper towels and season generously all over with salt and pepper.


Arrange the breasts skin side up on the grill grate so they’re not directly over the packet, and then close the lid. Smoke the duck until the skin turns an uneven amber-brown color on the edges, 15 to 17 minutes (the skin side will still be uncooked). Remove from the grill.


Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, add the smoked duck breasts skin side down and cook slowly, undisturbed, until some fat renders, the skin gets deep brown and crisp, and the breasts are cooked to medium-rare or medium doneness (an instant-read thermometer inserted into a breast should read 135°F to 140°F), 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board skin side up and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice thinly.

Make the salad

In a medium bowl, whisk the lime juice, fish sauce, garlic, shallot, chile, and sugar. Add the mangos and basil and gently toss to coat. Season to taste with lime juice, sugar, and salt (the riper the mango, the less sugar and the more lime juice you’ll need).


Divide and arrange the salad and then the duck on 4 plates; sprinkle with the peanuts.

Tropical Mango Sorbet

Papaya and pineapple juice build on the clean, sweet flavor of mango in this sorbet, while a splash of coconut milk smoothes its texture. If papayas aren’t readily available or in season, just add another mango. 

• 
  
  4 mangos (about 3 lb.), pitted and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium papaya (about 3/4 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pineapple juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup coconut milk
  
  


• 
  
  Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
  
  

Working in batches if necessary, purée all of the ingredients in a blender until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until cold (about 2 hours). Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the sorbet to an airtight container and freeze overnight to finish setting. Take the sorbet out of the freezer and let it soften for about 5 minutes before serving. It will keep in the freezer for about two weeks.

Crisp Tea-Smoked Duck with Green Mango and Basil Salad

Searing the duck breasts in a skillet after smoking gives them delicious crisp skin. You can substitute apples, plums, or peaches for the mangos.
Extra: To learn more, watch a video series where Robert Danhi demonstrates his tea-smoking technique.

For the pan-roasted peanuts

• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted peanuts
  
  

For the tea-smoked duck

• 
  
  1 medium orange
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup whole-leaf lychee tea
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rice, preferably jasmine
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 large or 4 small boneless duck breasts (about 2 lb. total )
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the mango-basil salad

• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium clove garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 small shallot, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 red serrano chile (or other small hot red chile), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. light brown palm sugar (or light brown sugar); more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 large unripe mangos, peeled and cut into 1/8 -inch-thick slices
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup roughly chopped basil, preferably Thai or Asian basil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Roast the peanuts

Cook the peanuts in an 8-inch skillet over low heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Coarsely chop the peanuts. Set aside.

Smoke the duck

Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest from the orange in 1x2-inch strips, avoiding as much of the white pith as possible. Reserve the orange for another use. Put the orange zest, tea, rice, and sugar in the center of a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. (If using thinner foil, use 2 or 3 layers.) Fold the foil loosely to form a flat packet.


Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Clean and oil the grill grate; set aside. Set the tea-smoking packet directly on the hot coals or on top of a metal burner shield. Put the grate back on the grill and close the lid. On a charcoal grill, leave the vents partially open and wait for smoke to rise from the vents. On a gas grill, wait 10 minutes, then open the lid to check for smoke. If there is none, close the lid and check again in a few minutes.


Meanwhile, with a sharp knife, trim any silver-skin from the duck breasts and score the skin in a diamond pattern without cutting all the way through to the meat. Pat dry with paper towels and season generously all over with salt and pepper.


Arrange the breasts skin side up on the grill grate so they’re not directly over the packet, and then close the lid. Smoke the duck until the skin turns an uneven amber-brown color on the edges, 15 to 17 minutes (the skin side will still be uncooked). Remove from the grill.


Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, add the smoked duck breasts skin side down and cook slowly, undisturbed, until some fat renders, the skin gets deep brown and crisp, and the breasts are cooked to medium-rare or medium doneness (an instant-read thermometer inserted into a breast should read 135°F to 140°F), 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board skin side up and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice thinly.

Make the salad

In a medium bowl, whisk the lime juice, fish sauce, garlic, shallot, chile, and sugar. Add the mangos and basil and gently toss to coat. Season to taste with lime juice, sugar, and salt (the riper the mango, the less sugar and the more lime juice you’ll need).


Divide and arrange the salad and then the duck on 4 plates; sprinkle with the peanuts.

Tamarind Date Chutney

Chutneys run the gamut from thin and smooth to thick and chunky. This smooth chutney, which balances the tartness of tamarind with the sweetness of dates, is a delicious accompaniment to the Salmon, Lentil, and Rice Kedgeree.

• 
  
  6 oz. tamarind pulp (from a block or shelled pods), cut into chunks
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups boiling water
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped dates
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. coriander seeds, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. fennel seeds, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

In a medium, nonreactive bowl, soak the tamarind pulp in the boiling water for about 20 minutes, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it becomes more pliable. Once softened, pour it into a medium-mesh sieve set over a 4-quart, nonreactive saucepan. Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, press the pulp through the sieve until only seeds and fiber are left behind. Be sure to scrape any strained tamarind from the underside of the sieve into the pan. Discard the solids left in the sieve.


Add the dates and sugar to the tamarind and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and stir in the ginger, chili powder, cumin, coriander, and fennel. Simmer until the mixture has thickened slightly and the dates are soft, 15 to 20 minutes.


In a blender, purée the chutney until smooth. Let cool and then season to taste with salt (you may not need any, depending on the tamarind). Store the chutney in a jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Serve at room temperature.