Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  6 whole allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  4 fresh or dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  One 4-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)
  
  

For the mole sauce

• 
  
  3 ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 mulato chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 guajillo chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
  
  


• 
  
  2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
  
  

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

Pork Chops with Green Chiles and Onions

A double dose of chile—canned and powder—adds pleasant heat to this quick skillet braise. The peppers’ light green hue may fade slightly as they simmer, but their spicy essence intensifies into a delicious sauce.

• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin 
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure ancho chile powder or chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 
  
  


• 
  
  4 center-cut boneless pork chops, preferably about 1 inch thick (about 1-1/2 lb. total)
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed   
  
  


• 
  
  1 4-oz. can chopped green chiles 
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. chopped jarred jalapeños (from about 12 slices)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. cider vinegar  
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
  
  

Tip:

Choose all-natural pork for the best flavor and texture. Avoid so-called
extra-juicy chops that have been treated with additives, which can give
them a rubbery texture.

In a small bowl, combine the cumin, chile powder, 1-1/4 tsp. salt and 3/4 tsp. pepper. Sprinkle on both sides of the pork and set aside. In a blender or food processor, purée the chicken broth, green chiles (with their liquid), jalapeños, and vinegar until smooth.

Put the flour in a pie plate and dredge the pork chops, shaking to remove any excess. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Pour in 2 Tbs. of the oil and heat until shimmering hot, about 1 minute. Add the pork chops and cook, without moving, until they’re brown around the edges and release easily from the pan, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, flip, and cook the other side until browned, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a large plate.

Over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and the onion to the skillet. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and golden, about 4 minutes. Add the green chile mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens slightly and the onions are completely tender, 2 to 3 minutes more; add a splash of chicken broth if the mixture seems dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 

Return the chops to the pan, nestling them into the onions. Cover and simmer gently until the pork is fairly firm to the touch with just a little give, 3 to 5 minutes. With a paring knife, make a nick in a thicker chop to make sure it’s only just a little pink. 

Serve the pork chops topped with the sauce. 

Spicy Slow-Cooker Veggie Chili with Summer Squash and Jalapeños

This colorful chili is delicious with sour cream, diced avocados, and warm tortillas or lime-flavored tortilla chips. For less heat, omit the jalapeño.

• 
  
  1⁄4 cup vegetable oil, divided
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups red bell peppers, diced (about 1)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 cups green bell peppers, diced (about 1)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup scallions, white, light green, and some dark green parts, thinly sliced (about 4)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced jalapeño (1 small)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
  
  


• 
  
  5 grinds black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups yellow summer squash, diced (about 2)
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can pinto beans, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced chiles or liquid from a can of chipotle chiles en adobo
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 28-oz. can fire-roasted diced tomatoes, with juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fresh-squeezed, strained lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  Tortilla chips, for serving (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Diced avocado, for serving (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Sour cream, for serving (optional)
  
  

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Heat half of the oil in a 10-inch, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat. When warm, add the bell peppers, scallions, garlic, jalapeño, half of the salt, the black pepper, and chili powder, and sauté until the vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes. Add the squash and sauté until slightly softened, another 3 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker, add the beans, and mix well.

Reduce the heat to medium under the sauté pan and add the remaining oil, plus the tomato paste, chiles or chipotle liquid, and flour. Cook until the mixture is thickened and the flour disappears, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to high and add the tomatoes with their juices, the stock, lime juice, and remaining salt. Boil, stirring well, for 2 minutes, and pour into the slow cooker. Cover and cook on low to meld the flavors, 3 to 4 hours. Stir in the cilantro, and serve with the chips, avocado, and sour cream, if desired.

Creamy Chile Sauce

Chipotle chiles pack some heat, but it’s tamed by sour cream.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup diced fresh poblano chile
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 tsp. minced chipotle in adobo
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup sour cream or crème fraîche
  
  

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, poblano, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to sizzle, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the heat down to low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, and cinnamon and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and let cool for a few minutes. Add the chipotle and process until smooth.

Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the lime juice and sour cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lime juice.

Grilled Moroccan Spice-Crusted Lamb with Spicy Chili Sauce

Serve this grilled lamb with Mediterranean sides like saffron couscous and grilled zucchini and green and yellow bell peppers. Stuff any leftover lamb in a fresh pita with salad greens, tomatoes, and the chili sauce. The sauce is potent, so a little goes a long way.

For the lamb

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs/ dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. hot pimentón (smoked paprika) or chipotle powder
  
  


• 
  
  5 lbs. boneless leg of lamb, trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  

For the sauce

• 
  
  1/4 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 large jalapeño peppers (preferably red), cored, seeded, and finely diced (about 1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped (about 1 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes  
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. white vinegar, more to taste
  
  

Prepare the lamb

In a small bowl, mix 4 tsp. salt with the sugar and spices. Sprinkle all over the lamb, transfer to a large non-reactive dish, and cover; refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.

Make the sauce

Heat the oil in a medium (10-inch) sauté pan over medium heat until it’s shimmering. Add the onion, jalapeños, and 1 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens and becomes translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, coriander, cumin, and red pepper flakes, and cook, stirring, until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste, and cook, stirring, until the paste starts to darken, about 1 minute. Add 3/4 cup water and the vinegar; bring to a boil, then simmer until the onion is completely tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and purée. Let cool to room temperature, season to taste with more salt, pepper, and vinegar if needed. Set aside; or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to three days.

Grill the lamb

Tip:

There are plenty of indicators used to check for doneness, but the best way to ensure you get your meat just to your liking is by taking its temperature with an instant-read thermometer. Just insert the thermometer in the thickest part of the meat, away from the bone.

For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium-high and the back burner(s) to medium-low. For a charcoal grill, light a medium-hot fire (400°F) with two-thirds of the coals banked to one side. Clean and oil the grill grates. Grill the lamb over the hotter part of the fire without moving it until it’s nicely browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn, move to the cooler part of the fire, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a thicker part of the lamb registers 135°F for medium-rare, 8 to 10 more minutes.

To serve

Transfer the lamb to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Thinly slice across the grain, transfer to a large platter, and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve with the sauce on the side.

Spicy Mango Salsa

This tangy salsa’s heat comes from fiery habaneros, available in most supermarkets; if you can’t find them, go with jalapeños instead. When working with the chiles, it is a good idea to wear gloves, or wash your hands and knife thoroughly after touching them. The bright color and sweetness of the mango in the salsa isn’t overpowered by the onion and red pepper, which are quickly seared over high heat to mellow their flavor and texture. The salsa goes great with grilled chicken, steaks, or a full-flavored fish like salmon or tuna.

• 
  
  1/4 cup canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium red onion, finely diced (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1-1/4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 mangos (about 1-1/2 lbs.), pitted and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1 habanero (or 1 to 2 jalapeños), stemmed, seeded, and very finely diced (about 1 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  

Heat the oil in a medium (10-inch) skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion and red pepper; sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables just start to brown and soften a bit, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large plate to cool. Once cool, transfer to a medium bowl and toss with the mangos, cilantro, habanero, and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season the salsa with the remaining Tbs. of lime juice and salt if needed, and serve.

Chiles Rellenos

Fried in a fluffy batter and served with a roasted tomato sauce, these stuffed poblano chiles are a Mexican classic. The filling is based on Cuban picadillo, a blend of ground beef, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and raisins.

For the filling

• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (6 medium cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium white or yellow onion, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4
  lb. ripe tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped (about 2-1/4 cups) or one
  28-oz. can whole plum tomatoes, drained and finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. 80% lean ground beef or ground turkey
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup slivered almonds
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup lower-salt chicken or beef broth
  
  

For the sauce

• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, quartered lengthwise
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored and halved horizontally
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. finely chopped garlic (4 medium cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the chiles

• 
  
  8 large poblano chiles
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  5 large eggs, at room temperature, separated
  
  

Make the filling

In a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook until pale golden, about 5 minutes.

Add the green pepper and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, and 2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate and pool, 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the meat and stir, breaking up any lumps. Add the almonds and raisins and stir occasionally until the meat is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

Make the sauce

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the onion and tomatoes cut side down on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and broil, turning the onion once or twice, until charred and softened, about 8 minutes.

Pull off the tomato skins with tongs. Blend the tomatoes and onion to a coarse purée in a blender or food processor.

Heat the oil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Stir in the tomato purée, cumin, oregano, and 2 tsp. salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate and pool, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and keep warm.

Roast the chiles

Wrap the chile stems in foil to keep them from charring and falling off.

For a gas stove, arrange the chiles over a lit burner (you can fit two to three per burner). For an electric stove, arrange all chiles on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and position it 4 inches below a hot broiler. As each side blackens and blisters, turn the chiles with tongs until they’re blistered all over.

Immediately put the chiles in a large bowl, cover, and let steam for 15 minutes. Remove the skin with your fingers or a paper towel. (It’s OK if you can’t remove all of it.)

Remove the foil from the stems, and slit the chiles lengthwise, starting about 1/2 inch from the stem and ending about 1/2 inch from the point. Remove the seed core, being careful not to damage the stem.

Stuff and fry the chiles

Video:
Watch Shelley Wiseman stuff and fry the chiles.

Spoon about 1/2 cup of the filling into each chile and then press the cut edges together. (If the chiles tear, press the torn edges together.) Arrange the chiles on a tray or baking sheet.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a paper-towel-lined large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 200°F.

Clip a deep-fry or probe thermometer to an 11- or 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan or cast-iron skillet. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat to 350°F.

Meanwhile, mix the flour and 2 tsp. salt in a shallow bowl. In a wide bowl, beat the egg whites and 1/2 tsp. salt with an electric mixer on medium speed until soft peaks form. On low speed, add the yolks one at a time, and beat just until they’re fully incorporated.

Working in batches of 2 or 3, hold a chile by the stem, lightly dredge it in the flour, and then dip it in the egg batter, using a silicone spatula to coat all sides. Lower the chile gently into the hot oil. Fry until one side is golden, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon and tongs, carefully turn the chiles and fry until the other side is golden, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined baking sheet in the oven to stay warm while you finish the remaining chiles.

Serve the chiles on a pool of the sauce.

Chilled Oven-Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup

• 
  
  8 yellow bell peppers
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 jalapeño, stemmed and seeded
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  Generous pinch of granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt or fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup sliced fresh chives (1/4 inch long)
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Put the peppers on a rimmed baking sheet and roast in the oven, turning every 15 minutes, until browned and wrinkled all over, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove the peppers from the oven, cover with a dishtowel, and set aside to cool. Seed, peel, and cut the peppers into quarters.

Heat the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, jalapeño, and rosemary and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the peppers and any accumulated juices, broth, sugar, 1-1/2 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. black pepper, and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Purée the soup in batches in a blender or food processor. Strain the puree through a fine sieve into a bowl, using a ladle to push as many of the solids through as possible. Discard the solids in the sieve and refrigerate the soup for at least 3 hours or overnight.

Once chilled, season the soup to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in chilled bowls, sprinkled with the chives. Finish each serving with a drizzle of olive oil.

Grilled Spareribs with Maple-Chipotle Glaze

Restraint and patience are the keys to grilling ribs properly. You want to put them over indirect heat (that is, over a cool zone) so the meat gently cooks. Make sure to cover the grill so that the ribs’ flavor is enhanced with a healthy waft of smoke.

For the ribs

• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 racks pork spareribs (about 9 lbs.)
  
  

For the glaze

• 
  
  3/4 cup pure maple syrup
  
  


• 
  
  1 chipotle chile, chopped, plus 3 Tbs. adobo sauce (from a can of chipotles en adobo)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. ketchup
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. cider vinegar
  
  

Prepare & cook the ribs

For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium-low and leave the back burner(s) off. For a charcoal grill, light a medium fire (300°F to 350°F) with all the coals banked to one side and the other side empty. Clean and oil the grill grates.

In a small bowl, mix the sugar and spices with 4 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper, and pat over both sides of the ribs. Let sit at room temperature while the grill heats.

Set the ribs meaty side up over the cool zone of the fire and cook covered (with the vents open on a charcoal grill) until the ribs brown and become tender (a paring knife should easily slice into the meat and the ribs should sag if you hold the center up with a pair of tongs), about 1-1/2 hours.

Make the glaze

Stir together the maple syrup, chipotle chile and adobo sauce, ketchup, mustard, and vinegar in a medium bowl until combined. Brush the ribs with half the glaze and cook with the grill covered, brushing the meat every couple minutes, until the glaze browns and becomes sticky on the ribs, about 15 minutes. Remove the ribs from the grill, brush with the remaining glaze, and let cool for a couple minutes; cut in half (meaty side down so they’re easier to slice), and serve.

Spicy Slow-Cooker Veggie Chili with Summer Squash and Jalapeños

This colorful chili is delicious with sour cream, diced avocados, and warm tortillas or lime-flavored tortilla chips. For less heat, omit the jalapeño.

• 
  
  1⁄4 cup vegetable oil, divided
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups red bell peppers, diced (about 1)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 cups green bell peppers, diced (about 1)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup scallions, white, light green, and some dark green parts, thinly sliced (about 4)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced jalapeño (1 small)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
  
  


• 
  
  5 grinds black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups yellow summer squash, diced (about 2)
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can pinto beans, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced chiles or liquid from a can of chipotle chiles en adobo
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 28-oz. can fire-roasted diced tomatoes, with juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fresh-squeezed, strained lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  Tortilla chips, for serving (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Diced avocado, for serving (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Sour cream, for serving (optional)
  
  

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Heat half of the oil in a 10-inch, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat. When warm, add the bell peppers, scallions, garlic, jalapeño, half of the salt, the black pepper, and chili powder, and sauté until the vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes. Add the squash and sauté until slightly softened, another 3 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker, add the beans, and mix well.

Reduce the heat to medium under the sauté pan and add the remaining oil, plus the tomato paste, chiles or chipotle liquid, and flour. Cook until the mixture is thickened and the flour disappears, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to high and add the tomatoes with their juices, the stock, lime juice, and remaining salt. Boil, stirring well, for 2 minutes, and pour into the slow cooker. Cover and cook on low to meld the flavors, 3 to 4 hours. Stir in the cilantro, and serve with the chips, avocado, and sour cream, if desired.

Smoky Pork Chili with Black-Eyed Peas

The moderately spicy chiles for this smoky pork and black-eyed pea chili were chosen for their flavor, not their heat, which means you can appreciate all of the flavors in the bowl.

For the sofrito

• 
  
  6 plum tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic, peeled
  
  


• 
  
  2 large or 3 medium jalapeños, seeded and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, halved, cored, and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried New Mexico chiles
  
  


• 
  
  2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
  
  

For the chili

• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups fresh or thawed frozen blackeyed peas (or three 15-oz. cans, drained and rinsed)
  
  


• 
  
  Sour cream, for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Thinly sliced scallions, for serving
  
  

Make the sofrito

Tip:

Sofrito is a flavoring base made from aromatic vegetables and herbs. Roasting these ingredients intensifies them.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F.

Put the tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, onion, bell pepper, vinegar, oil, oregano, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper in a 9x13-inch roasting pan and stir to combine. Roast, stirring every 15 minutes and scraping the bottom of the pan, until collapsed and very soft, about 45 minutes. Set aside.

While the vegetables roast, heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Put the ancho and New Mexico chiles in the pan and toast on both sides until blistered, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Put the chiles in a medium bowl, cover with 2 cups warm water (if they rise to the top, weight them down with a bowl), and soak until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve set over a bowl; reserve the soaking water.

Stem, seed, and coarsely chop the chiles. Put them in a food processor with the chipotle chiles and the roasted vegetables and purée until the mixture is completely smooth. Set aside.

Make the chili

Heat the vegetable oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Add the pork, cumin, chili powder, and 1 Tbs. plus 1ƒ tsp. salt; cook, stirring, until the meat is lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the sofrito and stir until thoroughly combined. Add the reserved chile water, chicken broth, and fresh black-eyed peas. Bring the chili to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the black-eyed peas are tender, about 45 minutes (if you’re using canned or frozen black-eyed peas, simmer the meat and broth for 30 minutes, add the peas, and continue to cook for 10 minutes longer). Season to taste with salt. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and scallions sprinkled over the top.

You can make the chili up to 4 days ahead; keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator and reheat gently before serving.

Beef and Green Chile Chili

This ground-beef chili features green Hatch chiles, which have a meaty texture and a rich, fruity flavor. Because it's a Texas-style chili, there are no beans. Instead, it gets thickened with fried, pureed corn tortillas, which adds a toasty note.

For the spice mixture

• 
  
  2 dried guajillo chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
  
  

For the chili

• 
  
  8 large fresh Hatch chiles (or Anaheim or Cubanelle chiles)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. 85%- to 90%-lean ground beef
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 6-inch fresh corn tortillas, quartered
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 large green bell pepper, halved, cored, and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 medium jalapeños, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 small cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  5 cups lower-salt chicken broth, heated
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Make the spice mixture

Stem, seed, and grind the chiles to a powder; you should have about 1 Tbs. In a medium bowl, combine the chile powder with the remaining spice mixture ingredients.

Make the chili

Position an oven rack about 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Broil the chiles on a large, heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet, turning with tongs as needed, until charred on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer the chiles to a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside until cool enough to handle. With gloved hands, peel, seed, and finely chop the chiles; set aside.

Put the ground beef in a large bowl. Mix in 3 Tbs. of the spice mixture.

Line a plate with paper towels. Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy-duty pot over high heat. Add the beef and cook, stirring often, until browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the beef to a medium bowl and set aside.

Put the tortillas in the hot oil and fry on both sides, turning occasionally with tongs, until golden-brown and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the tortillas to the paper-towel-lined plate and set aside.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add 1-1/2 cups of the onions and the remaining spice mixture to the pot. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan constantly. Add 1/2 cup of the roasted chiles, half of the bell peppers, and half the jalapeños. Cook the mixture, stirring frequently, until the green peppers are softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.

Stir the flour into the vegetables and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly and scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add 1 cup of the broth, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan until no lumps remain. Add the remaining 4 cups of broth and 1 Tbs. salt, stir, and return to a boil.

While the mixture comes to a boil, transfer 1 cup of the broth mixture to a food processor. Crumble in the fried tortillas and process until the tortillas are finely chopped. Pour the tortilla-broth mixture back into the pot and stir in the remaining onions, bell peppers, and the meat.

Return the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low to low and simmer, stirring occasionally and skimming the surface as needed, until the chili is thick, about 50 minutes.

Stir in the remaining roasted chiles and jalapeños and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Skim off any oil that rises to the surface. Season to taste with salt and serve.

Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  6 whole allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  4 fresh or dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  One 4-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)
  
  

For the mole sauce

• 
  
  3 ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 mulato chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 guajillo chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
  
  


• 
  
  2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
  
  

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

Chiles Rellenos

Fried in a fluffy batter and served with a roasted tomato sauce, these stuffed poblano chiles are a Mexican classic. The filling is based on Cuban picadillo, a blend of ground beef, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and raisins.

For the filling

• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (6 medium cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium white or yellow onion, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4
  lb. ripe tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped (about 2-1/4 cups) or one
  28-oz. can whole plum tomatoes, drained and finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. 80% lean ground beef or ground turkey
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup slivered almonds
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup lower-salt chicken or beef broth
  
  

For the sauce

• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, quartered lengthwise
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored and halved horizontally
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. finely chopped garlic (4 medium cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the chiles

• 
  
  8 large poblano chiles
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  5 large eggs, at room temperature, separated
  
  

Make the filling

In a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook until pale golden, about 5 minutes.

Add the green pepper and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, and 2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate and pool, 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the meat and stir, breaking up any lumps. Add the almonds and raisins and stir occasionally until the meat is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

Make the sauce

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the onion and tomatoes cut side down on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and broil, turning the onion once or twice, until charred and softened, about 8 minutes.

Pull off the tomato skins with tongs. Blend the tomatoes and onion to a coarse purée in a blender or food processor.

Heat the oil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Stir in the tomato purée, cumin, oregano, and 2 tsp. salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate and pool, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and keep warm.

Roast the chiles

Wrap the chile stems in foil to keep them from charring and falling off.

For a gas stove, arrange the chiles over a lit burner (you can fit two to three per burner). For an electric stove, arrange all chiles on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and position it 4 inches below a hot broiler. As each side blackens and blisters, turn the chiles with tongs until they’re blistered all over.

Immediately put the chiles in a large bowl, cover, and let steam for 15 minutes. Remove the skin with your fingers or a paper towel. (It’s OK if you can’t remove all of it.)

Remove the foil from the stems, and slit the chiles lengthwise, starting about 1/2 inch from the stem and ending about 1/2 inch from the point. Remove the seed core, being careful not to damage the stem.

Stuff and fry the chiles

Video:
Watch Shelley Wiseman stuff and fry the chiles.

Spoon about 1/2 cup of the filling into each chile and then press the cut edges together. (If the chiles tear, press the torn edges together.) Arrange the chiles on a tray or baking sheet.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a paper-towel-lined large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 200°F.

Clip a deep-fry or probe thermometer to an 11- or 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan or cast-iron skillet. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat to 350°F.

Meanwhile, mix the flour and 2 tsp. salt in a shallow bowl. In a wide bowl, beat the egg whites and 1/2 tsp. salt with an electric mixer on medium speed until soft peaks form. On low speed, add the yolks one at a time, and beat just until they’re fully incorporated.

Working in batches of 2 or 3, hold a chile by the stem, lightly dredge it in the flour, and then dip it in the egg batter, using a silicone spatula to coat all sides. Lower the chile gently into the hot oil. Fry until one side is golden, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon and tongs, carefully turn the chiles and fry until the other side is golden, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined baking sheet in the oven to stay warm while you finish the remaining chiles.

Serve the chiles on a pool of the sauce.

Pork Tamales with Double-Chile Sauce

There are different styles of tamales throughout Latin America, but their essential components—masa, a filling, and a wrapper—are the same. Wrapped in corn husks and served with a smoky chile sauce, these are traditionally Mexican.

For the pork filling

• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. lard or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  3- to 3½-lb. boneless pork shoulder or Boston butt, cut into 3-inch chunks and trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic, lightly smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  4 dried bay leaves, toasted 
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme, marjoram, or mild oregano, or 1 Tbs. dried Mexican oregano
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 guajillo, New Mexico, ancho, chipotle, or other dried red chiles, toasted, stemmed, and seeded
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. whole allspice berries
  
  

For the chile sauce

• 
  
  2 Tbs. lard or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium white onion, roughly chopped (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium heads garlic, peeled (about 35 cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  6 ancho chiles, toasted, stemmed, seeded, soaked in very hot water for 15 minutes, and drained
  
  


• 
  
  3 guajillo chiles, toasted, stemmed, seeded, soaked in very hot water for 15 minutes, and drained
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups canned, puréed fire-roasted or regular tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups (approximately) reserved pork cooking broth or lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. tamale-grind masa harina
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. brown sugar or honey; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cumin seed, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. dried Mexican oregano, toasted (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  One 2- to 3-inch cinnamon stick
  
  

For the masa

• 
  
  3-1/2 cups tamale-grind masa harina
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. (1-1/2 cups) lard, unsalted butter, vegetable shortening, or a combination, softened
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 2-1/2 cups reserved pork cooking broth
  
  


• 
  
  40 dried corn husks
  
  

Make the pork filling

Heat the lard or oil in a heavy-duty 8-quart pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook the pork until well browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer each batch to a bowl after browning.

Return all of the pork to the pot and add the remaining pork filling ingredients and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the meat is fall-apart tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Remove the meat from the pot, cool briefly, and shred it using 2 forks. Strain the broth, discarding the solids, and let cool briefly. Skim off the excess fat and reserve the broth. (The recipe may be made to this point up to 2 days ahead; refrigerate the meat and broth separately.)

Make the chile sauce

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the lard or oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer the onion and garlic to a blender.


Add the soaked chiles, tomatoes, and a little of the broth to the blender and purée until smooth.


Heat the remaining 1/2 Tbs. lard or oil in the saucepan over medium-high heat, add the masa harina, and cook for about 1 minute. Add the chile-tomato mixture and cook, stirring regularly, until it has darkened in color, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sugar or honey, cumin, oregano (if using), allspice, cloves, 2-1/2 tsp. salt, and enough pork broth to thin the purée to a sauce consistency. Add the cinnamon stick, lower the heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the color deepens slightly, the consistency is smooth, and a light sheen develops on the surface of the sauce, an additional 15 to 20 minutes, adding more broth as needed. Season to taste with salt and sugar. (The sauce may be made up to 2 days ahead; keep refrigerated.)

Make the masa

In a large bowl, mix the masa harina with 2-1/4 cups hot (140°F to 160°F) water. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or refrigerate for up to 2 days.


Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a hand mixer), whip the lard, butter, or shortening on medium-high speed until fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 1 tsp. salt and continue beating while adding the masa in golf-ball-size pieces, waiting a few seconds between each addition. When about half of the masa is mixed in, start alternating the masa with the pork broth until all of the masa is used, along with about 2 cups of the broth. Add 1/4 cup of the chile sauce and whip until light and fluffy, adding more broth if the mixture seems too dry.


To test if the masa is ready, take a small piece (about 1/2 tsp.) and drop it in a cup of cold water. It should easily float. If not, simply whip the masa for a few more minutes and test again. Often, adding a bit more of the pork broth or cool water during this second mixing will help; don’t add too much liquid, however, or you’ll end up with overly soft masa and shapeless tamales.

Assemble the tamales

Soak the corn husks in very hot water for 30 to 45 minutes, or overnight in cool water with a plate or bowl set on top of the husks to keep them submerged. You’ll have enough husks to make the tamales, plus extra to line the steamer and make up for any broken husks.


In a medium bowl, mix 2 cups of the chile sauce with the shredded meat and season to taste with salt.


Wipe a soaked husk dry and put it smooth side up on a work surface. If necessary, trim the bottom with scissors so the husk can lie mostly flat. Put about 1/3 cup masa in the center of the widest portion of the husk. With a spoon or spatula, spread it evenly over one-half to two-thirds of the husk leaving a 1/2-inch border at each edge.


Put 2 to 3 Tbs. of the pork filling in the center of the masa about ½ inch from the wide end.


Fold the corn husk in half lengthwise so the edges meet. Fold the seam back so it’s in the center of the tamale. Fold the tail of the wrapper to cover the seam (at least half the length of the tamale). Flip seam side down onto a tray or rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.


The tamales can be steamed as they are, or tied to make them more secure or to dress them up. To make ties, rip long, thin strips off one or two corn husks. Then place a strip of corn husk under the tamale, wrap it around the middle (making sure that you have some of the tail underneath) and tie securely.

Steam the tamales

Fill a deep 8-quart pot with a pasta insert with enough water to reach just below the insert. Without the insert in place, cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Have ready a kettle or pot of almost boiling water to add if the water gets low. Arrange the tamales upright (open end up) in the insert, leaving room for the steam to circulate. Fit the insert into the pot over the boiling water. Use he extra husks to cover the tamales (this helps concentrate the heat). Cover the pot with a lid. Steam for 1 to 1-1/2 hours, adjusting the heat as needed to keep the water just boiling. Check the water level frequently and add more as needed to keep the pot from going dry.


To test for doneness, quickly remove a tamale and replace the lid on the pot to continue the cooking. Put the tamale on the counter for a few minutes and then carefully unwrap it. If ready, the masa should be set and will pull away from the wrapper easily.


Let the tamales rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving to allow the masa to firm up. For softer tamales, let them rest in the pot with the heat off and the lid and extra leaves removed. For firmer tamales, let them rest out of the pot, covered with a cloth.


Serve the tamales in their wrappers with extra sauce passed on the side, and have diners unwrap them just before eating. Once unwrapped, they cool quickly.

Poblano-Pepita Salsa

Toasted pumpkin seeds add a surprising crunch to this fresh salsa.

• 
  
  2 medium poblano chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. tomatillos, husked and rinsed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup unsalted, roasted, hulled pepitas
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup packed chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Char the chiles over a gas burner or under a broiler until blackened on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic, and cool. Peel, stem, seed, and finely chop the chiles.

Heat a griddle or large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the tomatillos, turning occasionally, until dark brown in spots, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Coarsely chop the pepitas in a food processor; transfer to a medium bowl. Without washing the food processor, add the tomatillos and process to the consistency of a chunky sauce. Transfer to the bowl with the pepitas. Stir in the chiles, cilantro, and salt to taste.

Pumpkin Enchilada Casserole with Red Chile Sauce and Poblano-Pepita Salsa

If you need a vegetarian “star” for the Thanksgiving table, this is it. (But if you have leftover cooked turkey on hand, it also makes a delicious addition to the filling.)

For the Sauce

• 
  
  3 oz. dried California chiles (about 10)
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 oz. dried ancho chiles (about 2)
  
  


• 
  
  6 large cloves garlic, peeled
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the Filling

• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups 1/2-inch-diced peeled, seeded pumpkin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups diced leftover skinless roast turkey or rotisserie chicken (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For Assembly

• 
  
  Olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Ten 6-inch corn tortillas
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups packed grated Monterey Jack cheese (3/4 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 recipe Poblano-Pepita Salsa 
  
  


• 
  
  Crema Mexicana or sour cream, for serving
  
  

Make the sauce

Stem, seed, and rinse the chiles. Put the chiles, garlic, oregano, and 3 cups water in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chiles and garlic are very tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 30 minutes. Purée in a blender.

Heat the olive oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir until it begins to color, 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully stir in the chile mixture—it will spatter—and bring to a boil. Stir in the sugar and 2 tsp. salt. Keep warm.

Make the Filling

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until nicely browned, about 11 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the pumpkin and stir to coat. Lower the heat to medium, add the broth, cover, and simmer until the pumpkin is just tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the turkey (if using) and season to taste with salt. asse mble

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Brush a 9x13-inch baking dish with olive oil. Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce evenly over the bottom of the dish. Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and brush lightly with oil. One at a time, heat 5 tortillas until softened and pliable, about 1 minute per side. Arrange the griddled tortillas over the sauce in the pan (you can cut them to fit if necessary). Spread 1/2 cup sauce over the tortillas. Spoon the filling evenly over the sauce and top with 1 cup cheese. Drizzle 1/2 cup of the sauce over the cheese. Heat the remaining tortillas on the griddle. Arrange the tortillas evenly over the sauce, filling, and cheese. Spread the remaining sauce over the tortillas and sprinkle withthe remaining cheese. Bake until the cheese bubbles and the casserole is heated through, 30 to 35 minutes. Let sit for at least 10 minutes before serving with the salsa and crema.

Grilled Spareribs with Maple-Chipotle Glaze

Restraint and patience are the keys to grilling ribs properly. You want to put them over indirect heat (that is, over a cool zone) so the meat gently cooks. Make sure to cover the grill so that the ribs’ flavor is enhanced with a healthy waft of smoke.

For the ribs

• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 racks pork spareribs (about 9 lbs.)
  
  

For the glaze

• 
  
  3/4 cup pure maple syrup
  
  


• 
  
  1 chipotle chile, chopped, plus 3 Tbs. adobo sauce (from a can of chipotles en adobo)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. ketchup
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. cider vinegar
  
  

Prepare & cook the ribs

For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium-low and leave the back burner(s) off. For a charcoal grill, light a medium fire (300°F to 350°F) with all the coals banked to one side and the other side empty. Clean and oil the grill grates.

In a small bowl, mix the sugar and spices with 4 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper, and pat over both sides of the ribs. Let sit at room temperature while the grill heats.

Set the ribs meaty side up over the cool zone of the fire and cook covered (with the vents open on a charcoal grill) until the ribs brown and become tender (a paring knife should easily slice into the meat and the ribs should sag if you hold the center up with a pair of tongs), about 1-1/2 hours.

Make the glaze

Stir together the maple syrup, chipotle chile and adobo sauce, ketchup, mustard, and vinegar in a medium bowl until combined. Brush the ribs with half the glaze and cook with the grill covered, brushing the meat every couple minutes, until the glaze browns and becomes sticky on the ribs, about 15 minutes. Remove the ribs from the grill, brush with the remaining glaze, and let cool for a couple minutes; cut in half (meaty side down so they’re easier to slice), and serve.

Poblano-Pepita Salsa

Toasted pumpkin seeds add a surprising crunch to this fresh salsa.

• 
  
  2 medium poblano chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. tomatillos, husked and rinsed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup unsalted, roasted, hulled pepitas
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup packed chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Char the chiles over a gas burner or under a broiler until blackened on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic, and cool. Peel, stem, seed, and finely chop the chiles.

Heat a griddle or large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the tomatillos, turning occasionally, until dark brown in spots, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Coarsely chop the pepitas in a food processor; transfer to a medium bowl. Without washing the food processor, add the tomatillos and process to the consistency of a chunky sauce. Transfer to the bowl with the pepitas. Stir in the chiles, cilantro, and salt to taste.

Creamy Chile Sauce

Chipotle chiles pack some heat, but it’s tamed by sour cream.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup diced fresh poblano chile
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 tsp. minced chipotle in adobo
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup sour cream or crème fraîche
  
  

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, poblano, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to sizzle, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the heat down to low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, and cinnamon and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and let cool for a few minutes. Add the chipotle and process until smooth.

Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the lime juice and sour cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lime juice.