Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  6 whole allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  4 fresh or dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  One 4-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)
  
  

For the mole sauce

• 
  
  3 ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 mulato chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 guajillo chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
  
  


• 
  
  2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
  
  

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

Irish Butter-Poached Scallops with Leeks and Sweet Garden Peas

Irish butter is much richer and has fewer milk solids than the everyday butter sold in the United States. You can substitute the more widely available European-style butter, which, like Irish butter, is higher in butterfat than standard U.S. butter.

For the gremolata

• 
  
  1 cup coarsely shredded dried bread crumbs
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, finely minced
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest of 1 lemon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives
  
  

• 
  
  1 large leek, white and light green parts only, outer layers discarded and thinly sliced (3 to 3-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. crème fraîche or heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  7 grinds of black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 to 2 cups shelled fresh or frozen English peas
  
  


• 
  
  12 to 18 jumbo scallops, depending on everyone’s appetite
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup clarified Irish butter
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  
  


• 
  
  Watercress sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Tip:

To clarify the butter, melt it over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden but not browned. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or a coffee filter into a heatproof container, leaving the milk solids behind in the sieve or filter.

Make the gremolata:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread crumbs in a small bowl, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly. Spread in a pie pan or small baking sheet and toast for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Just before serving, stir in the garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

Prepare the leeks and peas:

In a saucepan, combine the leek, butter, crème fraîche, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leeks are a little tender and the sauce is reducing. Use your best judgment as to when to add the peas. If they are fresh but starchy they may take some time, so add them as soon as the leeks start to soften. If they are frozen, they may take just 2 to 3 minutes, so add them at the end. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to change what is on the bottom of the pan with what is on the top. Cook until the vegetables are tender.

Finish the dish:

Once the vegetables are cooking, season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a big sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the scallops in a single layer), melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot and foamy, add the scallops and poach gently for 3 to 5 minutes, basting as needed, until just done. They are ready when they feel just firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon the vegetables into individual deep plates or shallow soup bowls and top with the scallops. Add the lemon zest and juice to the butter from the scallop pan, then drizzle over the scallops. Sprinkle with some of the gremolata and garnish with the watercress.

Irish Butter-Poached Scallops with Leeks and Sweet Garden Peas

Irish butter is much richer and has fewer milk solids than the everyday butter sold in the United States. You can substitute the more widely available European-style butter, which, like Irish butter, is higher in butterfat than standard U.S. butter.

For the gremolata

• 
  
  1 cup coarsely shredded dried bread crumbs
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, finely minced
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest of 1 lemon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives
  
  

• 
  
  1 large leek, white and light green parts only, outer layers discarded and thinly sliced (3 to 3-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. crème fraîche or heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  7 grinds of black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 to 2 cups shelled fresh or frozen English peas
  
  


• 
  
  12 to 18 jumbo scallops, depending on everyone’s appetite
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup clarified Irish butter
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  
  


• 
  
  Watercress sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Tip:

To clarify the butter, melt it over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden but not browned. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or a coffee filter into a heatproof container, leaving the milk solids behind in the sieve or filter.

Make the gremolata:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread crumbs in a small bowl, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly. Spread in a pie pan or small baking sheet and toast for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Just before serving, stir in the garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

Prepare the leeks and peas:

In a saucepan, combine the leek, butter, crème fraîche, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leeks are a little tender and the sauce is reducing. Use your best judgment as to when to add the peas. If they are fresh but starchy they may take some time, so add them as soon as the leeks start to soften. If they are frozen, they may take just 2 to 3 minutes, so add them at the end. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to change what is on the bottom of the pan with what is on the top. Cook until the vegetables are tender.

Finish the dish:

Once the vegetables are cooking, season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a big sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the scallops in a single layer), melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot and foamy, add the scallops and poach gently for 3 to 5 minutes, basting as needed, until just done. They are ready when they feel just firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon the vegetables into individual deep plates or shallow soup bowls and top with the scallops. Add the lemon zest and juice to the butter from the scallop pan, then drizzle over the scallops. Sprinkle with some of the gremolata and garnish with the watercress.

Lobster with Sauternes and Curry

Don’t be misled by “curry” in the name of this dish. I use curry the way some French chefs do: as a spice to be judiciously applied the way you would any other seasoning. Here, it offsets the sweet dessert wine Sauternes, with lime juice balancing and uniting the two. I sometimes add baby vegetables (carrots, turnips, pattypan squash, haricots verts, sugar snap peas) cooked in butter and water (or chicken stock), scattering them around the bowl.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Four 1-1/2- to 1-3/4-lb. lobsters
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup canola or other neutral oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tablespoon tomato paste (omit if lobster stock is used)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mild curry powder, preferably Sun Brand Madras curry
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium carrots, unpeeled, cut into 1-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium Spanish onions, unpeeled, cut into large chunks
  
  


• 
  
  2 garlic heads, in their skins, cut in half horizontally
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. fresh ginger, unpeeled, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup Cognac or brandy
  
  


• 
  
  One 750 ml bottle Sauternes or other sweet wine, such as Muscat or Loupiac
  
  


• 
  
  8 cups fish stock, lobster stock or chicken stock
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream, preferably not ultrapasteurized
  
  


• 
  
  Juice of 1/2 lime, or more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh basil (preferably Thai) cut into chiffonade or 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves
  
  

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Kill the lobsters quickly by holding each one to face you, then driving a knife between the eyes and pulling it down through the head, like a lever. (Watch a video of this technique.)Using a heavy knife, split the lobster heads in half down the middle, then remove the heads, chop each one into 6 or 8 small pieces, and set the pieces aside. Separate the claws and tails from the bodies by twisting them, and discard the bodies or freeze them for another use. Put the claws into the boiling water and cook for 1 minute, then add the tails and cook for 1 minute more. Use a slotted spoon to remove them from the water and place them on a clean surface to cool. (You can put them in the refrigerator to speed the process if you like.) The lobster meat will appear quite underdone, but it will finish cooking later. Once it is cool, shell the lobster, splitting the tails and keeping the claw meat as intact as possible. Wrap the lobster meat in plastic wrap and refrigerate while you finish making the dish. Reserve the shells for the sauce.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the lobster head pieces and reserved shells and cook, stirring a few times, for 5 minutes. (You should smell a potent oceanic aroma as the flavor is released.) Add the tomato paste, if using, and curry and stir for another 2 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring, for another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour in the Cognac and Sauternes. Return to high heat and reduce by about two-thirds, until about 1 cup remains, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour in the stock and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl. Wipe out the pot and empty and rinse out the strainer. Line the strainer with cheesecloth, set it over the pot, and strain the broth again, back into the pot. Stir in the cream and bring to a boil, keeping a close eye on the pot so it doesn’t boil over. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until slightly thickened and flavorful, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with lime juice and salt (keeping in mind that lobster is naturally salty). Remove any extra bits of lobster shell by straining the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth set over a medium saucepan. Set the pan over medium heat and whisk in the butter. Add the lobster meat and reheat gently for 2 to 3 minutes.

To serve, place 2 claws and 1 whole tail in each of 4 shallow bowls, then spoon some sauce over each serving. Sprinkle with the basil and serve immediately.

Olive Oil Poached Tuna with Caper and Olive Vinaigrette

The olive oil poaching technique gives the tuna an incredibly tender, silky texture. It's important to let the fish sit at room temperature for about an hour before poaching; straight-from-the-fridge tuna will dramatically lower the temperature of the oil and throw off the cooking time.

For the tuna

• 
  
  1 clove garlic
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  4 to 6 cups extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Four 1-inch-thick tuna steaks (6- to 7-oz. each)
  
  

For the vinaigrette

• 
  
  1/3 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. capers, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  4 Kalamata olives, pitted
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt, as needed
  
  

Poach the tuna

Peel and smash the garlic clove and a pinch of salt to a paste, either with a mortar and pestle or by mincing and then mashing it with the side of a chef’s knife. Combine the garlic paste, rosemary, 1 tsp. salt, and the pepper in a small bowl. Add just enough oil to turn the spice mixture into a smooth paste, about 1/2 tsp. Rub the paste over the tuna—it will be sparse. Let the tuna sit at room temperature for about an hour.


Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 225°F.


Measure the thickness of the tuna steaks and add the same depth of oil to a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan. Heat over low heat until the oil reaches 120°F, 2 to 3 minutes. Put the tuna steaks in the oil in a single layer and immediately transfer the pan to the oven. Poach until a few small whitish droplets rise to the surface of the tuna and the center of the fish is rosy, 25 minutes.

Make the vinaigrette

While the fish poaches, combine the parsley, capers, olives, garlic, vinegar, and sugar in a blender and blend to a coarse purée. With the motor running, pour the olive oil through the hole in the blender’s lid and purée until incorporated. Taste for salt (it may not need any) and set aside.


Transfer the tuna to a wire rack to drain for a few minutes. Serve with the vinaigrette spooned over each steak.

Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  6 whole allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  4 fresh or dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  One 4-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)
  
  

For the mole sauce

• 
  
  3 ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 mulato chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 guajillo chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
  
  


• 
  
  2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
  
  

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

Poached Eggs on Brioche Toast with Garlicky Mushrooms

This decadent version of eggs on toast pairs rich brioche with poached eggs, earthy mushrooms, fresh spinach, and garlic oil. The runny egg yolks merge with the oil to become a delicious sauce that dresses the dish.

• 
  
  3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. hen of the woods mushrooms (or other exotic mushrooms, such as oyster), broken into large pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. distilled white vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  8 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  8 (3/4-inch-thick) slices brioche
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) salted butter; or as needed
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. (6 loosely packed cups) baby spinach
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F.


Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add half of the mushrooms in a single layer and brown them on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the mushrooms and cook for 30 seconds more. Season them with salt and transfer to a plate. Repeat with 2 more Tbs. oil and the remaining mushrooms. Season them with salt and return the reserved mushrooms to the skillet. Add 2 Tbs. water, put the skillet in the oven, and roast until tender, about 5 minutes.


While the mushrooms are cooking, bring 3 quarts of water, the vinegar, and 1/2 Tbs. salt to a boil in a 4-quart saucepan over high heat. While the water heats, crack 4 of the eggs into separate cups or coffee mugs. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and then carefully slide the eggs into the water. Poach the eggs until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a plate lined with paper towels, leaving space between each egg. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Trim away any scraggly bits of egg white.


In a small skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 1/2 cup oil and the garlic, stirring, until the garlic is light golden-brown, about 1-1/2 minutes. Carefully add the parsley (it will bubble) and immediately transfer the mixture to a small bowl.


Toast the brioche until golden-brown and butter it.


Divide the spinach among 8 large plates. Lightly season the spinach with salt and drizzle with some of the garlic oil. Position a slice of toast in the center of each plate, and put an egg on top of each slice. Sprinkle the eggs lightly with salt. Arrange the mushrooms on the plates and drizzle with the remaining garlic oil.

Poached Flounder with Mint Beurre Blanc

This classic shallow-poached fish is served with a minty French butter sauce. It’s delicious with a simple rice pilaf and tender green spring vegetables like peas or baby spinach.

• 
  
  6 skinless flounder fillets (1-1/2 lb. total)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground ginger
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh spearmint or ginger mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup minced shallots
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 slices
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. thinly sliced chives
  
  

Lay the fish fillets skinned side up on a cutting board. Slice each fillet in half lengthwise to make 12 strips. In a small bowl mix the ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over all the fish and then sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the chopped mint. Roll each strip into a coil, starting with the fatter end and aligning the roll along the cut edge. Secure with a toothpick, pushing it into the thin end and through the other side.

Sprinkle the shallots over the bottom of a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan. Arrange the fish coils cut edge down in the pan. Pour in the wine and 1/3 cup water. Turn the heat to medium high and bring the liquid to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover, and poach the fish until cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fish to a warm plate. Tent with foil while finishing the sauce.

Increase the heat to high and boil the liquid until it’s reduced to about 3 Tbs. (It should just barely cover the bottom of the pan.) Add the cream and boil for 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in 2 slices of the cold butter, the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. mint, and the chives. When the butter is almost melted, add another slice and whisk until mostly melted. Repeat with the remaining butter, 1 slice at a time. (Take care not to overheat the sauce or it will separate.) Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove the toothpicks from each piece of fish. Serve the fish (3 pieces per serving) drizzled with the sauce.

Honey-Lime-Sake Shrimp

These simple-to-make glazed shrimp have a surprisingly complex flavor. Sake, a Japanese rice wine, lends a savory-sweet note that’s enhanced by the honey, while fresh limes and hot pepper sauce add zing.

• 
  
  1/2 cup mild honey (such as clover)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sake
  
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium limes, finely grated to yield 2 tsp., squeezed to yield 1/3 cup juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. hot sauce (such as Cholula)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  24 colossal shrimp (13 to 15 per lb.; about 1lb.), shelled (tails left intact, if you like) and deveined
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
  
  

In a 12-inch skillet, combine the honey, sake, lime juice and zest, garlic, ginger, hot sauce, and 1tsp. salt and stir until thoroughly mixed. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then add the shrimp, toss to coat, and cook until just pink and opaque throughout, about 1 minute per side.

Transfer the shrimp to a serving bowl with a slotted spoon or tongs. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, adding any juice that has accumulated from the shrimp, until reduced to a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes. Pour the sauce over the shrimp, sprinkle with the cilantro, and toss to coat. Serve immediately.

Poached Eggs with Creamy Brussels Sprouts and Bacon

Brussels sprouts and eggs may seem like a surprising combination, but in this classy version of poached eggs on toast they make a perfect pair.

• 
  
  1 tsp. plus 2 Tbs. cider vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  8 slices bacon, cut crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  4 slices country-style white sandwich bread, halved diagonally
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  1 large shallot, minced
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. (4 cups) medium Brussels sprouts, trimmed and shredded (use the slicing blade on a food processor)
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  8 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, for garnish
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Fill a 12-inch-wide, 2- to 3-inch-deep pan with 1-1/2 inches of water and 1 tsp. cider vinegar. Bring the water to a simmer over high heat; reduce the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer.


Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until browned and crisp, about 7 minutes.


While the bacon is cooking, spread one side of the bread triangles with 1 Tbs. of the butter and arrange butter side up on a small baking sheet. Toast in the oven until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes.


With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Pour off all but 1 Tbs. bacon fat from the skillet. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and the shallot to the skillet and cook over medium heat until softened, about 2 minutes. Add 1/3 cup water and the Brussels sprouts, cream, the remaining 2 Tbs. cider vinegar, and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper; cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Cover the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the Brussels sprouts are just tender, 5 to 7 minutes.


While the Brussels sprouts cook, crack the eggs one at a time into a small bowl or teacup and then gently slide each egg into the simmering vinegar water. Poach until the whites are completely opaque but the yolks are still soft, 3 to 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water (in the same order they were added) and gently blot dry with a paper towel.


Put 2 toast triangles on each of 4 plates and top each toast with an egg. Season the eggs lightly with salt and pepper and spoon the Brussels sprout mixture on top. Sprinkle with the bacon and a few shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately.

Irish Butter-Poached Scallops with Leeks and Sweet Garden Peas

Irish butter is much richer and has fewer milk solids than the everyday butter sold in the United States. You can substitute the more widely available European-style butter, which, like Irish butter, is higher in butterfat than standard U.S. butter.

For the gremolata

• 
  
  1 cup coarsely shredded dried bread crumbs
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, finely minced
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest of 1 lemon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives
  
  

• 
  
  1 large leek, white and light green parts only, outer layers discarded and thinly sliced (3 to 3-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. crème fraîche or heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  7 grinds of black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 to 2 cups shelled fresh or frozen English peas
  
  


• 
  
  12 to 18 jumbo scallops, depending on everyone’s appetite
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup clarified Irish butter
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  
  


• 
  
  Watercress sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Tip:

To clarify the butter, melt it over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden but not browned. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or a coffee filter into a heatproof container, leaving the milk solids behind in the sieve or filter.

Make the gremolata:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread crumbs in a small bowl, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly. Spread in a pie pan or small baking sheet and toast for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Just before serving, stir in the garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

Prepare the leeks and peas:

In a saucepan, combine the leek, butter, crème fraîche, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leeks are a little tender and the sauce is reducing. Use your best judgment as to when to add the peas. If they are fresh but starchy they may take some time, so add them as soon as the leeks start to soften. If they are frozen, they may take just 2 to 3 minutes, so add them at the end. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to change what is on the bottom of the pan with what is on the top. Cook until the vegetables are tender.

Finish the dish:

Once the vegetables are cooking, season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a big sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the scallops in a single layer), melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot and foamy, add the scallops and poach gently for 3 to 5 minutes, basting as needed, until just done. They are ready when they feel just firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon the vegetables into individual deep plates or shallow soup bowls and top with the scallops. Add the lemon zest and juice to the butter from the scallop pan, then drizzle over the scallops. Sprinkle with some of the gremolata and garnish with the watercress.

Poached Flounder with Mint Beurre Blanc

This classic shallow-poached fish is served with a minty French butter sauce. It’s delicious with a simple rice pilaf and tender green spring vegetables like peas or baby spinach.

• 
  
  6 skinless flounder fillets (1-1/2 lb. total)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground ginger
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh spearmint or ginger mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup minced shallots
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 slices
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. thinly sliced chives
  
  

Lay the fish fillets skinned side up on a cutting board. Slice each fillet in half lengthwise to make 12 strips. In a small bowl mix the ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over all the fish and then sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the chopped mint. Roll each strip into a coil, starting with the fatter end and aligning the roll along the cut edge. Secure with a toothpick, pushing it into the thin end and through the other side.

Sprinkle the shallots over the bottom of a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan. Arrange the fish coils cut edge down in the pan. Pour in the wine and 1/3 cup water. Turn the heat to medium high and bring the liquid to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover, and poach the fish until cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fish to a warm plate. Tent with foil while finishing the sauce.

Increase the heat to high and boil the liquid until it’s reduced to about 3 Tbs. (It should just barely cover the bottom of the pan.) Add the cream and boil for 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in 2 slices of the cold butter, the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. mint, and the chives. When the butter is almost melted, add another slice and whisk until mostly melted. Repeat with the remaining butter, 1 slice at a time. (Take care not to overheat the sauce or it will separate.) Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove the toothpicks from each piece of fish. Serve the fish (3 pieces per serving) drizzled with the sauce.

Vitello Tonnato with Tomatoes, Olives, and Basil Oil

Vitello tonnato is a classic Italian dish--perfect on a summer menu. It works equally well as a simple one-course lunch or as part of a buffet. Its beauty lies in the contrast of the sweet, delicate veal agains the creamy intense sauce. I've seen other meats used in place of veal, but I don't think anything else works as well. The meat is poached rather than roasted, to keep it moist and tender.

For the poached veal

• 
  
  3 lb. veal top round
  
  


• 
  
  1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
  
  


• 
  
  3 celery stalks, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 carrots, peeled and chopped
  
  


• 
  
  4 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  small bunch of Italian parsley
  
  


• 
  
  8 to 10 peppercorns
  
  

For the tuna mayonnaise

• 
  
  generous 3/4 cup homemade mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  1 (7-ounce) can fine-quality tuna, drained
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. capers (packed in salt), well rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  3 fine-quality canned anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained
  
  


• 
  
  freshly ground black pepper
  
  

To assemble

• 
  
  3 ripe tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  2 handfuls of arugula leaves
  
  


• 
  
  lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tbsp little black olives (ideally, Niçoise or Ligurian)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. capers, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. basil oil
  
  

Poach the veal

Half-fill a cooking pot or heavy pan (large enough to hold the veal) with water. Add the onion, celery, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, and peppercorns (but no salt). Bring the water to a boil, then add the veal. There should be sufficient water to cover the meat-if not, add enough to do so. Turn down the heat to a steady, gentle simmer and cook for 1-1/2 hours. Remove the pan from the heat and let the veal cool completely in the stock (this helps keep it moist).

Make the tuna mayonnaise

Put the tuna into a food processor along with the lemon juice, capers, and anchovy fillets. Add the mayonnaise and process until you have a smooth sauce. Taste for seasoning-the sauce will benefit from a grinding or two of black pepper, but is unlikely to need any salt (as anchovies and capers are both salty). Set aside.

To serve

Lift the meat out of the cold stock and place it on a cutting board. Snip off any string and slice the meat with a sharp knife as finely as possible. Cut the tomatoes into big, uneven chunks. Dress the arugula with a squeeze of lemon juice and a few drops of olive oil.

Layer the veal slices on a platter with the tomatoes and arugula. Spoon the tuna mayonnaise on top of the veal, scatter over the olives and capers, and drizzle over the basil oil. Serve at once, with some good bread.

Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  6 whole allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  4 fresh or dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  One 4-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)
  
  

For the mole sauce

• 
  
  3 ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 mulato chiles
  
  


• 
  
  3 guajillo chiles
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup raisins
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
  
  


• 
  
  2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
  
  

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.