Mushroom, Leek, and Fontina Gratin

Rye breadcrumbs add a bold flavor that complements the meaty mushrooms. If you don’t have dry vermouth to deglaze the skillet, dry white wine or chicken or vegetable broth will do the trick.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more at room temperature for the dish
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. medium to large white mushrooms, quartered (8-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. mixed “wild” mushrooms (such as oyster and shiitake), trimmed and cut into bite-size pieces (7 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups coarse fresh rye breadcrumbs
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. coarsely grated fontina (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium to large leeks, trimmed, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 2 cups), and rinsed well
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry vermouth
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  4 sprigs fresh sage, plus 1 Tbs. chopped fresh sage leaves
  
  

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Butter a 9x13-inch (or similar) baking dish.

In a large bowl, toss the white mushrooms with 2 Tbs. of the oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Spread the white mushrooms evenly on a large rimmed baking sheet. Toss the “wild” mushrooms with the remaining 2 Tbs. oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper in the bowl and spread on a second large rimmed baking sheet. Roast, stirring the mushrooms and rotating the baking sheets once, until golden-brown and any liquid has evaporated, about 25 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.

Meanwhile, melt 2 Tbs. of the butter and pour into a medium bowl. Add the breadcrumbs and fontina and toss well.

In a 12-inch skillet, melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and 1 tsp. salt and cook, stirring often with a wooden spatula, until golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the vermouth and boil, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until reduced by half, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream, sage sprigs, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and bring just to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium low and simmer for 5 minutes to infuse. Remove the pan from the heat and discard the sage sprigs.

Add the mushrooms and chopped sage to the leek mixture and toss to coat. Transfer to the prepared dish. Top with the breadcrumb mixture and bake in the top third of the oven until the breadcrumbs are golden-brown, about 30 minutes.

Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Olive-Oil-Braised Leeks with Thyme

The leeks’ delicate flavor deepens as they cook, becoming sweet, robust, and complex. Leeks can be gritty, so wash them well before cooking.

• 
  
  2 lb. leeks (about 5 medium), white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise
  
  


• 
  
  12 small sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. dry white wine (like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Arrange the leek halves cut side down in a snug single layer in a shallow 8-inch square baking dish. Nestle the thyme sprigs among the leeks. In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, wine, and 1 Tbs. water and drizzle over the leeks. Sprinkle evenly with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil.

Braise the leeks in the oven until completely tender and easy to pierce with a fork, about 45 minutes. Uncover the dish and continue to braise until the leeks are caramelized, about 15 minutes more. Remove the thyme sprigs and serve the leeks warm or at room temperature.

Corn & Mushroom Sauté with Leeks & Pancetta

• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 oz. thinly sliced pancetta (4 to 5 slices)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup small-diced leeks (white and light-green parts only, from 1 large leek)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  2 generous cups medium-diced cremini mushrooms (about 6 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 slightly heaping cups fresh corn kernels (from 4 medium ears)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 tsp. coarsely chopped fresh thyme or oregano
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  One-quarter lemon
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until light golden and crisp, 5 to 7 min. Transfer the pancetta to a plate lined with paper towels, leaving the fat in the pan.

Increase the heat to medium and carefully add 1 Tbs. of the butter to the fat. When melted, add the leeks and 1/2 tsp. of the salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally and scraping up any browned bits from the pancetta, until the leeks are softened and slightly shrunken, 3 to 5 min. Uncover and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 1 to 2 min.

Add another 1 Tbs. of the butter, the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, the mushrooms, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are softened and a little shrunken (they will have given off a good bit of liquid), 3 to 4 min. Uncover and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms are lightly browned, 2 to 3 min. (the bottom of the pan will be quite brown).

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and the corn. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, until the corn is tender but still slightly toothy to the bite, 3 to 4 min. (It will begin to intensify in color, glisten, and be somewhat shrunken in size, and the bottom of the pan will be brown.)

Remove the pan from the heat, add the fresh herbs, a few generous grinds of pepper, and a good squeeze of the lemon. Stir in the heavy cream. Let sit a minute or two and stir again, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan (moisture released from the vegetables as they sit will loosen the bits). Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lemon. Crumble the reserved pancetta over top and serve warm.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried
  
  

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Sautéed Celery with Leeks and Mushrooms

This savory sauté tastes just like Thanksgiving stuffing, but without the bread. Serve it alongside roasted chicken.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium leek, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise (white and light-green parts)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, quartered
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium celery stalks, sliced 1/2 inch thick on the diagonal
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chopped fresh sage
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. lower-salt chicken broth or water
  
  

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, leek, and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring often, until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt and cook until the mushrooms are lightly browned and tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the celery and a pinch of salt and cook until crisp-tender, 5 to 8 minutes. With a wooden spoon, stir in the lemon juice and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the rosemary and sage and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Return the pan to medium heat, add the chicken broth or water, and scrape up any remaining bits. Let the liquid reduce by half and then pour over the celery. Serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Seared Scallops with Creamy Spinach and Leeks

Sweet leeks and rich cream mellow the slightly bitter edge of sautéed fresh spinach. Together, they make a luscious bed for seared scallops.

• 
  
  2-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. baby spinach (about 12 loosely packed cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise, and rinsed (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 large cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  16 large dry-packed sea scallops
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. vegetable oil
  
  

Melt 1/2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the spinach and cook, tossing with tongs, until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a colander set over a bowl; let drain and cool slightly. Repeat with the remaining spinach (you don’t need to add more butter). Squeeze handfuls of the spinach to release as much liquid as possible.

Discard any liquid in the skillet. Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter over medium heat and then add the leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Add the wine, raise the heat to medium high, and cook until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until it’s thickened and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt, a generous grind of pepper, and the nutmeg. Stir in the cheese and gently fold in the spinach. Keep warm.

Pat the scallops dry and remove the side muscle if still attached. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 2 tsp. of the oil over medium heat until shimmering hot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Add half of the scallops to the pan and cook, undisturbed, until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until just opaque in the center, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining 2 tsp. of oil and the scallops. Serve the scallops over the spinach.

Spring Leeks, Fava Beans, and Bacon

• 
  
  3 or 4 young, slim leeks
  
  


• 
  
  6 slices pancetta or unsmoked bacon
  
  


• 
  
  1 thick slice butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. fava beans in their pods
  
  


• 
  
  2 loosely packed Tbs. fresh tarragon leaves, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  
  

Bring a deep pan of water to a boil. Wash and thickly slice the leeks. Remove the rind from the bacon slices and cut each slice into finger-thick strips. Warm the butter in a shallow pan and add the strips of bacon. Let the bacon color lightly in the hot butter until its fat is starting to turn pale gold, then add the sliced leeks and the garlic clove. Partially cover with a lid and let the leeks soften but not color.

While the bacon and leeks are cooking, shell the beans and add them to the boiling water. Salt the water and let the beans cook for four or five minutes, until tender. Drain and rinse in cold water until cool enough to skin. Leave the tiniest of beans unskinned, but it is probably better to skin anything larger than a thumbnail-just squeeze each bean between thumb and finger and pop it out of its skin.

When the leeks and bacon are soft and fragrant, stir in the tarragon, parsley, and the drained and skinned beans, then season. Stir gently, allow to heat through for a minute or two, then serve on warm plates.

Irish Butter-Poached Scallops with Leeks and Sweet Garden Peas

Irish butter is much richer and has fewer milk solids than the everyday butter sold in the United States. You can substitute the more widely available European-style butter, which, like Irish butter, is higher in butterfat than standard U.S. butter.

For the gremolata

• 
  
  1 cup coarsely shredded dried bread crumbs
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, finely minced
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest of 1 lemon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives
  
  

• 
  
  1 large leek, white and light green parts only, outer layers discarded and thinly sliced (3 to 3-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. crème fraîche or heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  7 grinds of black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 to 2 cups shelled fresh or frozen English peas
  
  


• 
  
  12 to 18 jumbo scallops, depending on everyone’s appetite
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup clarified Irish butter
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  
  


• 
  
  Watercress sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Tip:

To clarify the butter, melt it over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden but not browned. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or a coffee filter into a heatproof container, leaving the milk solids behind in the sieve or filter.

Make the gremolata:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread crumbs in a small bowl, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly. Spread in a pie pan or small baking sheet and toast for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Just before serving, stir in the garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

Prepare the leeks and peas:

In a saucepan, combine the leek, butter, crème fraîche, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leeks are a little tender and the sauce is reducing. Use your best judgment as to when to add the peas. If they are fresh but starchy they may take some time, so add them as soon as the leeks start to soften. If they are frozen, they may take just 2 to 3 minutes, so add them at the end. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to change what is on the bottom of the pan with what is on the top. Cook until the vegetables are tender.

Finish the dish:

Once the vegetables are cooking, season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a big sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the scallops in a single layer), melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot and foamy, add the scallops and poach gently for 3 to 5 minutes, basting as needed, until just done. They are ready when they feel just firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon the vegetables into individual deep plates or shallow soup bowls and top with the scallops. Add the lemon zest and juice to the butter from the scallop pan, then drizzle over the scallops. Sprinkle with some of the gremolata and garnish with the watercress.

Corn & Mushroom Sauté with Leeks & Pancetta

• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 oz. thinly sliced pancetta (4 to 5 slices)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup small-diced leeks (white and light-green parts only, from 1 large leek)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  2 generous cups medium-diced cremini mushrooms (about 6 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  2 slightly heaping cups fresh corn kernels (from 4 medium ears)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 tsp. coarsely chopped fresh thyme or oregano
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  One-quarter lemon
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until light golden and crisp, 5 to 7 min. Transfer the pancetta to a plate lined with paper towels, leaving the fat in the pan.

Increase the heat to medium and carefully add 1 Tbs. of the butter to the fat. When melted, add the leeks and 1/2 tsp. of the salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally and scraping up any browned bits from the pancetta, until the leeks are softened and slightly shrunken, 3 to 5 min. Uncover and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 1 to 2 min.

Add another 1 Tbs. of the butter, the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, the mushrooms, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are softened and a little shrunken (they will have given off a good bit of liquid), 3 to 4 min. Uncover and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms are lightly browned, 2 to 3 min. (the bottom of the pan will be quite brown).

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and the corn. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, until the corn is tender but still slightly toothy to the bite, 3 to 4 min. (It will begin to intensify in color, glisten, and be somewhat shrunken in size, and the bottom of the pan will be brown.)

Remove the pan from the heat, add the fresh herbs, a few generous grinds of pepper, and a good squeeze of the lemon. Stir in the heavy cream. Let sit a minute or two and stir again, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan (moisture released from the vegetables as they sit will loosen the bits). Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lemon. Crumble the reserved pancetta over top and serve warm.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried
  
  

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Roast Salmon with Bacon and Leeks

Salmon is one of those versatile ingredients that work well for weeknight dinners and when you have guests. Here, crisp bacon and sautéed leeks complement the fish’s rich, full flavor. 

• 
  
  2 lbs. salmon fillet, skin on, cut into four 8-oz. pieces
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. thickly sliced bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 large leek (white and light green parts only), trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise into rings (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cider vinegar
  
  

Tip:

If entertaining, you can cook and serve the fillet whole.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Rub the salmon flesh with 1 Tbs. oil and then sprinkle with half the thyme, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper.

In a large (12-inch), oven-proof skillet (like a cast-iron pan) over medium heat, cook the bacon in 1 Tbs. oil, stirring occasionally, until it crisps and renders most of its fat, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Discard the bacon fat and wipe the pan with a paper towel.

Add the remaining Tbs. oil and the leek to the pan, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, the remaining thyme, and the vinegar, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the leek softens completely and turns light brown, about 10 minutes.

Spread the leeks evenly around the pan and set the salmon skin side down on top. Transfer to the oven and roast uncovered until the salmon browns and becomes mostly firm to the touch (it should be just a little pink inside when you flake open a thicker piece of the fish), about 20 minutes.

Serve the salmon with leeks and crisp bacon on top.

Olive-Oil-Braised Leeks with Thyme

The leeks’ delicate flavor deepens as they cook, becoming sweet, robust, and complex. Leeks can be gritty, so wash them well before cooking.

• 
  
  2 lb. leeks (about 5 medium), white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise
  
  


• 
  
  12 small sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. dry white wine (like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Arrange the leek halves cut side down in a snug single layer in a shallow 8-inch square baking dish. Nestle the thyme sprigs among the leeks. In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, wine, and 1 Tbs. water and drizzle over the leeks. Sprinkle evenly with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil.

Braise the leeks in the oven until completely tender and easy to pierce with a fork, about 45 minutes. Uncover the dish and continue to braise until the leeks are caramelized, about 15 minutes more. Remove the thyme sprigs and serve the leeks warm or at room temperature.

Irish Butter-Poached Scallops with Leeks and Sweet Garden Peas

Irish butter is much richer and has fewer milk solids than the everyday butter sold in the United States. You can substitute the more widely available European-style butter, which, like Irish butter, is higher in butterfat than standard U.S. butter.

For the gremolata

• 
  
  1 cup coarsely shredded dried bread crumbs
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, finely minced
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest of 1 lemon
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives
  
  

• 
  
  1 large leek, white and light green parts only, outer layers discarded and thinly sliced (3 to 3-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. crème fraîche or heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  7 grinds of black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 to 2 cups shelled fresh or frozen English peas
  
  


• 
  
  12 to 18 jumbo scallops, depending on everyone’s appetite
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup clarified Irish butter
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  
  


• 
  
  Watercress sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Tip:

To clarify the butter, melt it over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden but not browned. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or a coffee filter into a heatproof container, leaving the milk solids behind in the sieve or filter.

Make the gremolata:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread crumbs in a small bowl, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly. Spread in a pie pan or small baking sheet and toast for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Just before serving, stir in the garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

Prepare the leeks and peas:

In a saucepan, combine the leek, butter, crème fraîche, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leeks are a little tender and the sauce is reducing. Use your best judgment as to when to add the peas. If they are fresh but starchy they may take some time, so add them as soon as the leeks start to soften. If they are frozen, they may take just 2 to 3 minutes, so add them at the end. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to change what is on the bottom of the pan with what is on the top. Cook until the vegetables are tender.

Finish the dish:

Once the vegetables are cooking, season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a big sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the scallops in a single layer), melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot and foamy, add the scallops and poach gently for 3 to 5 minutes, basting as needed, until just done. They are ready when they feel just firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon the vegetables into individual deep plates or shallow soup bowls and top with the scallops. Add the lemon zest and juice to the butter from the scallop pan, then drizzle over the scallops. Sprinkle with some of the gremolata and garnish with the watercress.

Seared Scallops with Creamy Spinach and Leeks

Sweet leeks and rich cream mellow the slightly bitter edge of sautéed fresh spinach. Together, they make a luscious bed for seared scallops.

• 
  
  2-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. baby spinach (about 12 loosely packed cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise, and rinsed (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 large cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  16 large dry-packed sea scallops
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. vegetable oil
  
  

Melt 1/2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the spinach and cook, tossing with tongs, until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a colander set over a bowl; let drain and cool slightly. Repeat with the remaining spinach (you don’t need to add more butter). Squeeze handfuls of the spinach to release as much liquid as possible.

Discard any liquid in the skillet. Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter over medium heat and then add the leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Add the wine, raise the heat to medium high, and cook until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until it’s thickened and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt, a generous grind of pepper, and the nutmeg. Stir in the cheese and gently fold in the spinach. Keep warm.

Pat the scallops dry and remove the side muscle if still attached. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 2 tsp. of the oil over medium heat until shimmering hot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Add half of the scallops to the pan and cook, undisturbed, until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until just opaque in the center, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining 2 tsp. of oil and the scallops. Serve the scallops over the spinach.

Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Sour Cream and Leek Mashed Potatoes

Potatoes and leeks are a classic flavor pairing, and here, they come together in luscious, creamy mashed potatoes. Serve with roast chicken, meatloaf, or as a bed for seared or roasted fish. This recipe doubles or triples easily, but add the milk in increments, as you may not need it all.

• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, washed, and sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide pieces (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup whole milk, heated; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground white or black pepper
   
  
  

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, add a generous 1/2 tsp. salt, and lower the heat to a steady simmer. Cover the pot partially and cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté, stirring often, until tender but not browned, about 6 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and return to the pan. Steam-dry over low heat, shaking the pan until the potatoes leave a light film on the bottom, about 3 minutes.

Mash the potatoes with a potato masher. Stir in the leeks, sour cream, and milk, adding more milk as needed to reach your desired consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve.
 

Roast Salmon with Bacon and Leeks

Salmon is one of those versatile ingredients that work well for weeknight dinners and when you have guests. Here, crisp bacon and sautéed leeks complement the fish’s rich, full flavor. 

• 
  
  2 lbs. salmon fillet, skin on, cut into four 8-oz. pieces
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. thickly sliced bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 large leek (white and light green parts only), trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise into rings (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cider vinegar
  
  

Tip:

If entertaining, you can cook and serve the fillet whole.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Rub the salmon flesh with 1 Tbs. oil and then sprinkle with half the thyme, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper.

In a large (12-inch), oven-proof skillet (like a cast-iron pan) over medium heat, cook the bacon in 1 Tbs. oil, stirring occasionally, until it crisps and renders most of its fat, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Discard the bacon fat and wipe the pan with a paper towel.

Add the remaining Tbs. oil and the leek to the pan, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, the remaining thyme, and the vinegar, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the leek softens completely and turns light brown, about 10 minutes.

Spread the leeks evenly around the pan and set the salmon skin side down on top. Transfer to the oven and roast uncovered until the salmon browns and becomes mostly firm to the touch (it should be just a little pink inside when you flake open a thicker piece of the fish), about 20 minutes.

Serve the salmon with leeks and crisp bacon on top.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried
  
  

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Sautéed Celery with Leeks and Mushrooms

This savory sauté tastes just like Thanksgiving stuffing, but without the bread. Serve it alongside roasted chicken.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium leek, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise (white and light-green parts)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, quartered
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium celery stalks, sliced 1/2 inch thick on the diagonal
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chopped fresh sage
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. lower-salt chicken broth or water
  
  

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, leek, and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring often, until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt and cook until the mushrooms are lightly browned and tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the celery and a pinch of salt and cook until crisp-tender, 5 to 8 minutes. With a wooden spoon, stir in the lemon juice and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the rosemary and sage and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Return the pan to medium heat, add the chicken broth or water, and scrape up any remaining bits. Let the liquid reduce by half and then pour over the celery. Serve immediately.