Double-Mushroom Meatloaf

Fresh and dried mushrooms make this meatloaf extra delicious. Craving even more mushroom goodness? Pair it with the mushroom gravy. Or create your own customized meatloaf recipe with the Recipe Maker.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. canola or olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup small-diced fresh cremini or button mushrooms
  
  


• 
  
  2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup dry sherry
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. medium-coarse white bread, such as Italian or French, cut into 2-inch pieces (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground veal
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup dried mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water and chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher Salt
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. ketchup
  
  

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the onion, mushrooms, and garlic, stirring frequently, until softened and just beginning to brown, 6 to 8 minutes.


Add the sherry, and simmer briskly, until almost dry, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool until warm.


In a shallow dish that holds it in a single layer, soak the bread in the milk, flipping once, until soggy but not falling apart, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the coarseness and freshness of the bread. Lightly squeeze a handful of bread at a time to remove some of the milk (it should be wet but not drenched). Finely chop and add to the bowl with the onion-mushroom mixture.


Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.


Add the pork, veal, and eggs to the onion mixture. Scatter the rehydrated dried mushrooms, thyme, and sage over the meat, and then sprinkle with the Worcestershire, 2-1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Use your hands to gently mix all the ingredients until just combined; try not to compact the mixture as you do this.


Heat the remaining 1 tsp. of oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Form 1 Tbs. of the meatloaf mixture into a small patty. When the oil is hot, cook the patty on both sides until cooked through, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper, and other seasonings as needed. Repeat until you're satisfied with the flavor.


Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with parchment. Transfer the meatloaf mixture to the baking pan and form into a 10x4-inch rectangular block (it becomes loaf-shaped as it cooks). Spread the ketchup over the top and lightly down the sides of the meatloaf to glaze it.


Bake until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F in the center of the meatloaf, 40 to 55 minutes.


Let the meatloaf rest for 10 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board or serving platter with a large spatula and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch-thick slices.

Osso Buco

This is the world’s best make-ahead dish—it tastes amazing on the second day. The classic accompaniment is saffron-scented Risotto alla Milanese.

• 
  
  6 1-1/4 inch-thick veal shanks
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups finely diced yellow onion (about 2 medium onions)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely diced celery (about 2 stalks)
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup finely diced carrot (about 2 small carrots)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 28-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, juices reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup low-salt chicken broth, more if needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 large sprig thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. arrowroot mixed with 2 tsp. broth or water
  
  

Tip:

Look for arrowroot in the spice section of your grocery store.

For the gremolata:

• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 large cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 anchovy fillets, minced
  
  

Heat the oven to 350°F.

Tie the veal shanks around the middle with kitchen string (if they’re not tied already) and season them with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a dish. Dredge the shanks very lightly in flour, thoroughly shaking off the excess.

Have ready a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer (9x13-inch works well). In a large heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Put three veal shanks in the pan and sear until nicely browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Move the shanks to the roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining three shanks.

Carefully pour off the fat in the pan and wipe it out with paper towels (it’s fine if the browned bits remain in the pan bottom; just wipe away the used oil). Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter and remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, carrot, oregano, and 1 tsp. salt. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine, and cook, scraping up any brown bits with a wooden spoon, until the wine is reduced to about 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes

Stir in the tomato paste. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the broth, thyme, bay leaf, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, and pour the contents of the pan over the shanks. Cover tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Braise the veal in the oven until fork-tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours, checking the liquid occasionally. If it has cooked down, add enough broth to keep the level about halfway up the shanks. To check for doneness, pierce a shank with a fork. The meat should pull apart easily. Taste a morsel—it should feel soft and tender. Do not overcook, or the veal will fall apart.

Gently brush most of the vegetable bits off the shanks. With a wide, flat metal spatula, carefully transfer the veal shanks to a dish. Strain the pan juices through a medium-mesh sieve into a saucepan, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula to extract as much sauce as you can. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Whisk in the arrowroot mixture and cook briefly to thicken. If you’re working ahead, stop here (see Make-ahead Tips for reheating).

Make the gremolata:

Just before finishing the sauce and serving, combine the parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and anchovies. Add two Tbs. of the gremolata to the sauce. Remove the strings from the shanks. Serve the osso buco topped with the sauce and a small sprinkling of the remaining gremolata.

Slow-Cooker Osso Buco

There are two tricks to this recipe: browning the veal shanks before they go into the slow cooker and reducing the sauce before serving. The result is an osso buco you’d be hard-pressed to distinguish from the labor-intensive classic (trust us).

• 
  
  1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  Four 1-1/2- to 2-inch-thick veal shanks (about 2-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  One 14-1/2-oz. can diced tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1 small red onion, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into
  
  


• 
  
  1/4-inch-thick rounds (1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 stalk celery, chopped (1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  5 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, minced (1 tsp.)
  
  

Put the flour in a wide, shallow dish. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour; shake off the excess flour.


Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, and when it foams, add the shanks to the skillet. Cook until golden, turning once, about 10 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a slow cooker.


Add the wine to the skillet. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet and pour the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker. Add the tomatoes and their juices, chicken broth, onion, carrot, celery, and thyme. Cover and cook on low heat for 6 to 8 hours—the meat will be very tender and almost falling off the bone.


Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Pour the sauce from the slow cooker into a large skillet. Simmer over medium heat until reduced to about 2 cups, 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic to make a gremolata. Serve the veal shanks topped with the sauce and the gremolata.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 
  
  3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
  
  


• 
  
  2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sweet vermouth
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard
  
  

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Meatloaf with Fresh Scallions & Herbs

Scallions add a nice bite to this meatloaf without being overbearing or too oniony, and the sour cream makes this loaf super moist. To make sure the seasoning is correct, you sauté and taste a tiny portion of the meat mixture before forming  the loaf.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. vegetable oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. ground beef (80% lean)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. ground veal
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. sweet paprika, preferably Hungarian
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, lightly beaten; 1 more if needed
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups homemade dry breadcrumbs or panko breadcrumbs; more if needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup thinly sliced scallions (both green and white parts)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup ketchup
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup chopped fresh tarragon
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. lightly chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.

Put the ground beef, veal, and pork in a large bowl and gently knead them with your hands until just combined. Add the cooled onion, paprika, 2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper and gently knead to blend. Add the remaining ingredients (except for the remaining vegetable oil) and gently knead with your hands or stir with a large spoon until just incorporated.

Wipe out the skillet and heat the remaining 1 tsp. oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add a quarter-size piece of the meat and cook, turning halfway through cooking, until the meat is cooked through, about 1 minute on each side. Cool briefly and taste. If it’s too moist to hold together, add up to 1/2 cup more breadcrumbs to the meat mixture; if it’s too dry, add an extra egg. If necessary, add salt and pepper. Repeat cooking quarter-size pieces of the meat until you’re satisfied with the flavor and consistency.

On a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet, mold the meat mixture into a 9x5-inch loaf. Bake until the meat is firm to the touch and has an internal temperature of 160°F, about 1 hour. Allow the meatloaf to rest for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Vitello Tonnato with Tomatoes, Olives, and Basil Oil

Vitello tonnato is a classic Italian dish--perfect on a summer menu. It works equally well as a simple one-course lunch or as part of a buffet. Its beauty lies in the contrast of the sweet, delicate veal agains the creamy intense sauce. I've seen other meats used in place of veal, but I don't think anything else works as well. The meat is poached rather than roasted, to keep it moist and tender.

For the poached veal

• 
  
  3 lb. veal top round
  
  


• 
  
  1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
  
  


• 
  
  3 celery stalks, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 carrots, peeled and chopped
  
  


• 
  
  4 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  small bunch of Italian parsley
  
  


• 
  
  8 to 10 peppercorns
  
  

For the tuna mayonnaise

• 
  
  generous 3/4 cup homemade mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  1 (7-ounce) can fine-quality tuna, drained
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. capers (packed in salt), well rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  3 fine-quality canned anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained
  
  


• 
  
  freshly ground black pepper
  
  

To assemble

• 
  
  3 ripe tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  2 handfuls of arugula leaves
  
  


• 
  
  lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tbsp little black olives (ideally, Niçoise or Ligurian)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. capers, rinsed and drained
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. basil oil
  
  

Poach the veal

Half-fill a cooking pot or heavy pan (large enough to hold the veal) with water. Add the onion, celery, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, and peppercorns (but no salt). Bring the water to a boil, then add the veal. There should be sufficient water to cover the meat-if not, add enough to do so. Turn down the heat to a steady, gentle simmer and cook for 1-1/2 hours. Remove the pan from the heat and let the veal cool completely in the stock (this helps keep it moist).

Make the tuna mayonnaise

Put the tuna into a food processor along with the lemon juice, capers, and anchovy fillets. Add the mayonnaise and process until you have a smooth sauce. Taste for seasoning-the sauce will benefit from a grinding or two of black pepper, but is unlikely to need any salt (as anchovies and capers are both salty). Set aside.

To serve

Lift the meat out of the cold stock and place it on a cutting board. Snip off any string and slice the meat with a sharp knife as finely as possible. Cut the tomatoes into big, uneven chunks. Dress the arugula with a squeeze of lemon juice and a few drops of olive oil.

Layer the veal slices on a platter with the tomatoes and arugula. Spoon the tuna mayonnaise on top of the veal, scatter over the olives and capers, and drizzle over the basil oil. Serve at once, with some good bread.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 
  
  3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
  
  


• 
  
  2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sweet vermouth
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard
  
  

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Fettucine with Ragu alla Bolognese

In historically wealthy Emilia-Romagna, ragù is made from a combination of ground meats—beef, veal, and pork—and enriched with milk and cream. Ragù alla Bolognese, which originated in Bologna, in the heart of the region, is a perfectly delicious example. In this version, mortadella, a smoked beef and pork sausage, brings even more rich flavor to the pot.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium carrots, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground beef
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. ground veal
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine, such as Soave Classico
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups lower-salt beef broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. thinly sliced mortadella, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips (1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. regular or spinach fettucine
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)
  
  

Make the ragu

Heat the oil and butter in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat until the butter melts and begins to sizzle. Stir in the carrots, celery, garlic, onion, and parsley. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and light golden, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, pork, and veal and mix well with a wooden spoon or spatula to break up the clumps. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot until the meat is deep brown and crumbly but still tender and not dry, 60 to 90 minutes—if the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to low.
 

Raise the heat to high, stir in the wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan until it is almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and season the meat with the nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Stir in the milk and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Dilute the tomato paste in a small bowl with a splash of the broth and pour it into the sauce. Mix well and then add the remaining broth. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and cook the sauce at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and fragrant and the vegetables have more or less dissolved, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the cream and mortadella and simmer gently until completely heated through, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook the pasta and serve

Tip:

Resist the urge to rush the meat through browning—it takes 60 to 90 minutes to do this step properly, but your patience will be rewarded with a rich, deeply flavored sauce.

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top, garnished with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, if you like.