Cheesy Rice with Garlic and Thyme

Imagine risotto crossed with macaroni and cheese, and that’s what you get in this comforting side dish. Dried porcini lend a savory edge without an overt mushroom flavor. Serve alongside a simple roast chicken, or seared veal or pork chops.

• 
  
  1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 oz. (1 cup) coarsely grated fontina
  
  


• 
  
  3/4oz. (1/2 cup) firmly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground white pepper
  
  

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over high heat.

Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until they’re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1 Tbs. salt, and the rice to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, swirling continuously until it turns a deep golden-brown (be careful not to burn it). Immediately remove the pan from the heat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.

Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strain the cooked rice and mushrooms, catching the broth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to the pan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and the butter mixture and moisten the rice with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.

Spring Risotto with Ramps, Asparagus, and Morels

Ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the fleeting pleasures of early spring. Their pungent, almost spicy garlicky-onion flavor mellows a bit with cooking, and this creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle to show them off, paired with two other spring vegetable stars, morels and asparagus.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup trimmed and roughly chopped ramps
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups asparagus pieces (1 inch)
  
  


• 
  
  7 cups homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped onion
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups short-grain risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dried morels, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch slices (strain and reserve the soaking liquid)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In a medium sauté pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the ramps and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring the broth almost to a boil in a large pot. Reduce the heat to very low; the broth should stay hot but not simmer.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least 10 inches wide or in a similar-sized Dutch oven. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook slowly, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is completely gone and the onion is soft and glistening but not browned, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. Toasted rice should still be white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it.

Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir the mushrooms and their soaking liquid into the rice, and cook, stirring, until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

Ladle in 1-1/2 to 2 cups broth to barely cover the rice and stir constantly. Add another 1/2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is dry enough that your stirring spoon leaves a trail showing the bottom of the pot, ladle in another cup of broth, again stirring until it’s all absorbed. Continue adding broth in 1-cup increments, always stirring, until the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually 12 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid.

When the risotto is a few minutes away from al dente, stir in the sautéed ramps and asparagus.

After you’ve added 5 cups of liquid, (16 to 20 minutes from the first liquid addition), taste the rice to determine if it’s al dente and pleasantly creamy. If it is, remove it immediately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorporating more broth. Gently stir in the cheese and parsley and serve immediately.

Rice Salad with Asparagus, Favas & Peas

This salad is a celebration of spring, with tender asparagus, fava beans, and peas dotting the chewy grains of rice. It's best to boil the rice in lots of boiling water for salads, like pasta. This way, the grains stay separate and are less apt to turn into a pile of mush. Cook the rice until just al dente and spread it out to cool. Be sure to serve rice salads at room temperature; cold rice is hard and unpleasant.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups arborio, carnaroli, or basmati rice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups shelled English peas
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. fresh green asparagus, tough ends snapped off, and cut at an angle into 1⁄4-inch segments
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 cups shelled fava beans (about 1-1⁄2 pounds fava beans in the pod)
  
  


• 
  
  2 shallots, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup chopped chives
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped chervil
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped mint
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Add the rice and boil until the grains are just cooked—they should be slightly al dente—about 15 minutes. Drain well and spread the rice on a baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.

Bring a separate large pot of water to a boil to cook the peas, asparagus, and fava beans. Have a large bowl of ice water ready, and start with the peas. To make this task easier, put the peas in a fine-mesh strainer basket, and submerge the peas and the basket in the water until the peas are just tender, about 2 minutes. Lift the basket out of the water and immediately submerge the peas (still in the strainer basket) in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out of the ice water and drain the peas well. Transfer the peas to a small bowl, and set aside at room temperature temporarily, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

Repeat the process with the asparagus, cook the asparagus in the strainer basket until just tender, about 2 minutes, then immediately submerge the asparagus in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out of the ice, drain well, and transfer the asparagus to a small bowl. Set aside at room temperature, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

If necessary, add more ice to the ice bath. Put the fava beans in the strainer basket, and submerge in the boiling water until the beans slip easily out of their skins and are tender, about 2 minutes. (To test the favas, carefully remove a bean from the basket and pierce the outer layer with your thumb, gently squeezing the bean from its skin.) Immediately submerge the beans in the ice water until thoroughly chilled. Pop the beans out of their skins, and set aside temporarily at room temperature, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt if necessary.

Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss it lightly with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the vegetables and herbs, and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette on top and toss lightly to combine. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice, and/or olive oil if necessary. Transfer to a shallow platter or individual serving plates. Serve at room temperature.

Rice Salad with Asparagus, Favas & Peas

This salad is a celebration of spring, with tender asparagus, fava beans, and peas dotting the chewy grains of rice. It's best to boil the rice in lots of boiling water for salads, like pasta. This way, the grains stay separate and are less apt to turn into a pile of mush. Cook the rice until just al dente and spread it out to cool. Be sure to serve rice salads at room temperature; cold rice is hard and unpleasant.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups arborio, carnaroli, or basmati rice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups shelled English peas
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. fresh green asparagus, tough ends snapped off, and cut at an angle into 1⁄4-inch segments
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 cups shelled fava beans (about 1-1⁄2 pounds fava beans in the pod)
  
  


• 
  
  2 shallots, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup chopped chives
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped chervil
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped mint
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Add the rice and boil until the grains are just cooked—they should be slightly al dente—about 15 minutes. Drain well and spread the rice on a baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.

Bring a separate large pot of water to a boil to cook the peas, asparagus, and fava beans. Have a large bowl of ice water ready, and start with the peas. To make this task easier, put the peas in a fine-mesh strainer basket, and submerge the peas and the basket in the water until the peas are just tender, about 2 minutes. Lift the basket out of the water and immediately submerge the peas (still in the strainer basket) in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out of the ice water and drain the peas well. Transfer the peas to a small bowl, and set aside at room temperature temporarily, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

Repeat the process with the asparagus, cook the asparagus in the strainer basket until just tender, about 2 minutes, then immediately submerge the asparagus in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out of the ice, drain well, and transfer the asparagus to a small bowl. Set aside at room temperature, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

If necessary, add more ice to the ice bath. Put the fava beans in the strainer basket, and submerge in the boiling water until the beans slip easily out of their skins and are tender, about 2 minutes. (To test the favas, carefully remove a bean from the basket and pierce the outer layer with your thumb, gently squeezing the bean from its skin.) Immediately submerge the beans in the ice water until thoroughly chilled. Pop the beans out of their skins, and set aside temporarily at room temperature, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt if necessary.

Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss it lightly with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the vegetables and herbs, and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette on top and toss lightly to combine. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice, and/or olive oil if necessary. Transfer to a shallow platter or individual serving plates. Serve at room temperature.

Parsnip Risotto with Pancetta and Sage

Sweet parsnips, salty pancetta, and aromatic sage—does winter food get any better?

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. medium parsnips, peeled, cored, and cut into medium dice (2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. thinly sliced pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh sage
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups arborio rice
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of crumbled saffron (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
  
  

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the parsnips and boil until firm-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and spread on a rimmed baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the parsnips, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the pancetta and cook until sizzling and crisp, about 2 minutes. Add the sage and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant and the sage is starting to crisp, about 2 minutes more. Set aside.

Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil in an 11- to 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, a small pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.

Add the rice, 2 tsp. salt, and the saffron (if using), stirring well to coat. Add 2 cups of the broth and the wine; simmer, stirring, until the liquid is completely absorbed, 3 to 4 minutes. Continue adding the broth in 1 cup increments, stirring and adjusting the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and letting each addition be almost absorbed before adding the next. The risotto is done when the rice is nearly but not fully tender (al dente) and still a little soupy (this usually takes 14 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid). You may not use all the broth, but you should use at least 4 cups.

Fold the parsnip mixture into the risotto. Add the butter and Parmigiano and stir gently to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with more grated Parmigiano.

Risotto with Corn, Spicy Sausage, and Wilted Arugula

This warming risotto studded with fresh corn kernels and spicy arugula bridges the transition from summer to fall.

• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium ears fresh corn, shucked and halved crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 packed cups trimmed arugula
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


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  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium leek (white and light-green parts only), finely diced (about 3/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. hot Italian pork sausage, casings removed and broken into chunks
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups arborio or carnaroli rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine (like Pinot Grigio)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano; more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)
  
  

Heat the chicken broth in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the corn and cook until the kernels are just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the corn to a cutting board and reduce the heat to keep the broth hot but not simmering.

Once the corn is cool enough to handle, slice the kernels off four of the pieces. Grate the kernels from the remaining two pieces using the large holes of a box grater. Discard the cobs.

Heat the olive oil and garlic in a large, heavy saucepan or medium Dutch oven over medium-high heat until the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the arugula and toss with tongs until wilted, about 1 minute. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Transfer the arugula to a cutting board, let it cool slightly, and then coarsely chop it. Wipe the pan clean.

Melt the butter in the cleaned pan over medium heat. Add the leek and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the sausage, breaking it apart with a fork or spoon into crumbles, and cook until no longer pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the grains are well coated with fat and the edges become translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and stir until it’s absorbed, about 30 seconds. Stir in the grated corn.

Ladle enough of the hot broth into the pan to barely cover the rice, about 1-1/2 cups. Bring to a boil and then adjust the heat to maintain a lively simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until the broth is mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Continue adding broth in 1/2-cup increments, stirring occasionally and letting each addition be absorbed before adding the next.

After about 20 minutes, the rice should be just cooked but still fairly firm. At this point, add the whole corn kernels, chopped arugula, and another 1/2 cup broth. Continue to simmer and stir until the corn is warmed through and the rice is just tender to the tooth, an additional 1 to 3 minutes. Stir in another splash of broth if the risotto seems too thick. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the risotto immediately with a sprinkling of cheese and parsley, if using.

Spring Risotto with Ramps, Asparagus, and Morels

Ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the fleeting pleasures of early spring. Their pungent, almost spicy garlicky-onion flavor mellows a bit with cooking, and this creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle to show them off, paired with two other spring vegetable stars, morels and asparagus.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup trimmed and roughly chopped ramps
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups asparagus pieces (1 inch)
  
  


• 
  
  7 cups homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped onion
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups short-grain risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dried morels, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch slices (strain and reserve the soaking liquid)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In a medium sauté pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the ramps and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring the broth almost to a boil in a large pot. Reduce the heat to very low; the broth should stay hot but not simmer.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least 10 inches wide or in a similar-sized Dutch oven. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook slowly, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is completely gone and the onion is soft and glistening but not browned, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. Toasted rice should still be white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it.

Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir the mushrooms and their soaking liquid into the rice, and cook, stirring, until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

Ladle in 1-1/2 to 2 cups broth to barely cover the rice and stir constantly. Add another 1/2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is dry enough that your stirring spoon leaves a trail showing the bottom of the pot, ladle in another cup of broth, again stirring until it’s all absorbed. Continue adding broth in 1-cup increments, always stirring, until the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually 12 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid.

When the risotto is a few minutes away from al dente, stir in the sautéed ramps and asparagus.

After you’ve added 5 cups of liquid, (16 to 20 minutes from the first liquid addition), taste the rice to determine if it’s al dente and pleasantly creamy. If it is, remove it immediately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorporating more broth. Gently stir in the cheese and parsley and serve immediately.

Caramelized Onion Risotto

Onions are often used in risotto, but not usually as the main ingredient. In this soothing dish, you get a bite of beautifully browned, sweet, soft caramelized onions in every forkful. Aged Gouda gives the risotto a slightly toasty butterscotch flavor, but the more traditional Parmigiano-Reggiano is also delicious.

• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. yellow onions (about 4 medium), halved through the root and thinly sliced lengthwise
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups arborio rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. finely grated aged Gouda or Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1 cup on a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Heat the olive oil in a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the onions and reduce the heat to medium. Cook without stirring until the bottom of the pot begins to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt and stir with a wooden spatula. Continue to cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot frequently and adjusting the heat as necessary, until the onions are well browned, 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 3-quart saucepan, combine the broth with 2 cups water and set over medium heat until steaming hot.

Transfer the onions to a small bowl, cover, and keep warm. Add about 1/2 cup of the broth mixture to the pot. Scrape the bottom of the pot with the wooden spatula until any stuck-on bits are released. Pour the liquid back into the broth mixture. Wipe out the pot.

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in the pot over medium heat. Add the rice and cook, stirring gently, until glossy and translucent around the edges, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until absorbed, about 1 minute. Ladle enough broth over the rice to just cover (about 1/2 cup) and simmer, stirring often, until most of the broth has been absorbed (test by running a spoon through the rice; no broth should pool on the pot bottom). Continue to add the broth in this manner, stirring often, until the rice is tender but still has a bit of resistance when you bite into it, 20 to 30 minutes. (You may not need all of the broth.)

Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. butter, the cheese, and all but 1/3 cup of the onions. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately, topped with the remaining onions.