Spring Risotto with Ramps, Asparagus, and Morels

Ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the fleeting pleasures of early spring. Their pungent, almost spicy garlicky-onion flavor mellows a bit with cooking, and this creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle to show them off, paired with two other spring vegetable stars, morels and asparagus.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup trimmed and roughly chopped ramps
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups asparagus pieces (1 inch)
  
  


• 
  
  7 cups homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped onion
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups short-grain risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dried morels, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch slices (strain and reserve the soaking liquid)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In a medium sauté pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the ramps and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring the broth almost to a boil in a large pot. Reduce the heat to very low; the broth should stay hot but not simmer.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least 10 inches wide or in a similar-sized Dutch oven. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook slowly, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is completely gone and the onion is soft and glistening but not browned, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. Toasted rice should still be white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it.

Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir the mushrooms and their soaking liquid into the rice, and cook, stirring, until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

Ladle in 1-1/2 to 2 cups broth to barely cover the rice and stir constantly. Add another 1/2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is dry enough that your stirring spoon leaves a trail showing the bottom of the pot, ladle in another cup of broth, again stirring until it’s all absorbed. Continue adding broth in 1-cup increments, always stirring, until the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually 12 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid.

When the risotto is a few minutes away from al dente, stir in the sautéed ramps and asparagus.

After you’ve added 5 cups of liquid, (16 to 20 minutes from the first liquid addition), taste the rice to determine if it’s al dente and pleasantly creamy. If it is, remove it immediately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorporating more broth. Gently stir in the cheese and parsley and serve immediately.

Wild Mushroom Toasts

These toasts are best slightly warm, so hold off on toasting the bread until just before serving. You can use cremini mushrooms if you can’t find the exotic varieties listed below.

• 
  
  1 lb. wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, maitakes, hedgehogs, or morels
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


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  2 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
  
  


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  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


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  1/2 cup crème fraîche (about 4 oz.)
  
  


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  1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


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  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


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  18 slices baguette (cut 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick)
  
  


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  1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  

Gently clean the mushrooms with a damp cloth or a paring knife to remove any dirt or dark spots. Cut off any tough stems. If the mushrooms appear muddy, quickly dip them into a large basin of water and drain. Leave small, bite-size mushrooms whole; quarter or halve larger mushrooms.

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter together with 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until any liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are nicely browned, 5 to 8 minutes. (If the mushrooms are dry and the pan begins to scorch, add a drizzle of olive oil.) Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board. Let them cool slightly and chop them coarsely.

Return the pan to the stovetop over medium heat and add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. oil. When the butter has melted, add the shallots, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until the shallots are tender and lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Return the mushrooms to the pan, stir in the crème fraîche (if you’re making this ahead, see the note below), and cook, stirring, to coat the mushrooms with the crème fraîche. Stir in the parsley and season with several grinds of pepper. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and hold in a warm spot.

Shortly before serving, position an oven rack about 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler to high. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and brush them with olive oil. Broil until the bread is golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and toast the other side, about 1 minute. Spread the warm mush­room mixture on the toasts, sprinkle some of the Parmigiano-Reggiano on top, and serve.

Spring Risotto with Ramps, Asparagus, and Morels

Ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the fleeting pleasures of early spring. Their pungent, almost spicy garlicky-onion flavor mellows a bit with cooking, and this creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle to show them off, paired with two other spring vegetable stars, morels and asparagus.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup trimmed and roughly chopped ramps
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups asparagus pieces (1 inch)
  
  


• 
  
  7 cups homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped onion
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups short-grain risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dried morels, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch slices (strain and reserve the soaking liquid)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In a medium sauté pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the ramps and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring the broth almost to a boil in a large pot. Reduce the heat to very low; the broth should stay hot but not simmer.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least 10 inches wide or in a similar-sized Dutch oven. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook slowly, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is completely gone and the onion is soft and glistening but not browned, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. Toasted rice should still be white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it.

Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir the mushrooms and their soaking liquid into the rice, and cook, stirring, until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

Ladle in 1-1/2 to 2 cups broth to barely cover the rice and stir constantly. Add another 1/2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is dry enough that your stirring spoon leaves a trail showing the bottom of the pot, ladle in another cup of broth, again stirring until it’s all absorbed. Continue adding broth in 1-cup increments, always stirring, until the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually 12 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid.

When the risotto is a few minutes away from al dente, stir in the sautéed ramps and asparagus.

After you’ve added 5 cups of liquid, (16 to 20 minutes from the first liquid addition), taste the rice to determine if it’s al dente and pleasantly creamy. If it is, remove it immediately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorporating more broth. Gently stir in the cheese and parsley and serve immediately.