Food 2: Potatoes

Showing posts with label Potatoes. Show all posts

Monday, December 9, 2013

Fennel Layered with Potatoes & Breadcrumbs (Tortiera di Finocchi e Patate)

Take care to make the potato slices equally thin so they cook evenly. A mandoline or other vegetable slicer makes the job easier, but you can also do it by hand with a sharp knife.

2 lb. yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Gold

1 large fennel bulb, trimmed (3/4 to 1 lb. after trimming)

1 cup firmly packed fresh breadcrumbs

1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino (preferably Tuscan) or Parmigiano-Reggiano

3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish

2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Tip:

To make fresh breadcrumbs, use a dense, day-old French or Italian country-style loaf. Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and process in a food processor until fine.

Peel the potatoes and slice them as thinly as possible, between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick (use a mandoline if you have one). Put the sliced potatoes in a large bowl of cold water to keep them from browning.

Cut the fennel in half lengthwise. Slice the halved fennel crosswise as thinly as possible, between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick. You should have about 4 cups.

In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, and garlic. Mix well with your hands, making sure the garlic is evenly distributed.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400ºF.

Lightly oil the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking dish.

Without draining the potatoes, use your hands to lift out about one-third of the slices and arrange them in the bottom of the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. (The water clinging to them will generate steam as they bake.) Season with 1/2 tsp. of the salt and a couple of grinds of the pepper. Sprinkle the potatoes evenly with 1/4 cup of the breadcrumb mixture. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the oil. Top the potatoes with half of the sliced fennel, spreading it evenly. Sprinkle the fennel with 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/4 cup of the breadcrumb mixture, and 1 Tbs. of the oil. Repeat this layering process, ending with a top layer of potatoes. Season the top layer with the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt and some more pepper. Top with the remaining breadcrumb mixture and the final 2 Tbs. oil.

Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes (be sure the aluminum foil is sealed tightly all around the baking dish, or there won’t be enough steam to cook the potatoes). Uncover and continue baking until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork and the top is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Let rest at least 10 minutes before serving. The tortiera is as good warm as it is hot.

Potato Salad with Peas and Pancetta

For the dressing

1/3 cup buttermilk

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

¼ cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean

1/2 lb. pancetta, cooked and crumbled

1 cup fresh peas, blanched (or substitute thawed frozen peas)

1 cup sugar snap peas, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and blanched

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl

Make the salad

Combine the vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes by scraping off the skin. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With your fingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

When the potatoes have completely cooled, gently fold the pancetta, peas, sugar snaps, basil, chives, and mint into the potatoes. Fold in enough dressing to generously coat the potatoes (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

Southwestern-Style Potato Salad

For the dressing:

1/3 cup sour cream

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1 clove garlic, mashed to a paste

2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano

1-1/2 tsp. cumin seeds, lightly toasted and ground

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean

1-1/4 cup fresh sweet corn kernels, blanched

1-1/4 cup diced red bell pepper

3/4 cup grated Cheddar

1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Make the salad

When the potatoes have completely cooled, gently fold the corn, bell peppers, Cheddar scallions, and cilantro into the potatoes. Fold in enough dressing to generously coat the potatoes (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

Grilled Southwestern Potato Salad

This potato salad is filled with favorite flavorings of the Southwest—corn, chiles, red onions, peppers, and some crisp bacon.

2 large red onions, cut into 1/2-inch disks and threaded onto metal skewers

4 red bell peppers, halved, cored, and seeded

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp. plus 2 Tbs. kosher salt; more as needed

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more as needed

1-1/2 cups cooked fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears)

1/2 lb. bacon (8 to 9 slices), cooked until crisp, drained, and crumbled

3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 tsp. chili powder

3 lb. red potatoes, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces

3 Tbs. cider vinegar; more as needed

Heat a gas grill to medium or prepare a charcoal fire with medium- and low-heat areas. Put the onions and peppers on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the oil, 2 tsp. of the salt, and the pepper. Turn and rub the vegetables to coat all over with the oil and seasonings.

Grill the vegetables, covered, until they have good grill marks, about 5 minutes. Flip, cover, and continue to grill until the peppers are softened and nicely browned, about another 5 minutes. As they finish cooking, transfer the peppers to the baking sheet. Reduce the heat on the gas grill to medium low or transfer the onions to the cooler part of the fire and continue cooking until they are just tender and browned (it’s fine if they’re charred in places), about another 8 minutes. Move to a cutting board and let cool. Scrape the skins off the peppers if you like. Coarsely chop the peppers and onions and toss in a large serving bowl along with the corn, bacon, cilantro, and chili powder.

Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water by a couple of inches, stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. of salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and toss with the grilled vegetables, the remaining 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs. oil, and the vinegar. Season with salt, pepper, and more vinegar to taste. Let sit for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours at room temperature before serving.

Potato Gratin with Gruyere, Bacon, and Leeks

This rich, creamy gratin gets a note of smokiness from the bacon between the layers of tender potatoes. Create your own potato gratin with the Recipe Maker.

2-1/2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled & sliced into 1/8-inch thick rounds

2-1/2 cups heavy or light cream

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 oz. bacon

3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, thinly sliced

6 oz. grated Gruyère

2 to 3 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Butter or oil a 3-quart gratin dish; set aside.

Put the potatoes, cream , 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper in a 12-inch skillet. Simmer, partially covered, over medium to medium-low heat, stirring occasionally and gently with a rubber spatula until the potatoes are barely tender when pierced with a fork or skewer, 8 to 12 minutes.

In a medium skillet, cook the bacon until browned and fully cooked. Set aside to cool, reserving 2 Tbs. of the fat in the skillet. Heat the reserved fat over medium-high heat and sauté leeks until tender, fragrant, and lightly browned. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When the bacon is cool, crumble it into small pieces.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer half the potatoes to the prepared gratin dish, spreading them evenly. Layer on the leeks, bacon, Gruyère, theyme, and nutmeg. Top with the remaining potatoes spreading them evenly, and pour over any liquid remaining in the pan.

In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and melted butter.

Evenly scatter the topping mixture over the potatoes. Bake the gratin until it’s bubbly, the top is brown, and the potatoes are completely tender when poked with a fork or a skewer, 25 to 30 minutes. Let the gratin sit for at least 10 and up to 30 minutes before serving so the liquid is fully absorbed and the layers are cohesive.

Potato Salad with Chickpeas and Indian Spices

For the dressing

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1 Tbs. grainy mustard

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, mashed to a paste

2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger

1-1/2 tsp. cumin seeds, lightly toasted and ground

1-1/2 tsp. coriander seeds, lightly toasted and ground

1 tsp. turbinado sugar

1/2 tsp. ground turmeric

For the salad

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/4 lb. baby potatoes, scrubbed clean

1 cup canned, rinsed chickpeas

3/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro

Make the dressing

Whisk the lime juice, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the oil until combined. Whisk in the garlic, ginger, cumin and coriander seeds, turbinado sugar and turmeric.

Make the salad

Combine the vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 5 to 10 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With your fingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

Gently fold the chickpeas and cilantro into the potatoes. Whisk the vinaigrette back together and fold enough of it into the potatoes to generously coat them (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve while still slightly warm, or at room temperature.

Rustic Mashed Potatoes

These are the real deal—creamy, buttery potatoes that get great texture from leaving the skins on. If you use a ricer or food mill to mash the potatoes there will be small bits of skin in the finished dish. If you use a stand mixer, the skin will be in larger pieces.

5 lb. medium russet (Idaho) potatoes, scrubbed

2-1/2 cups half-and-half

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and softened

Tip:

Russets are your best choice for fluffy mashed potatoes, due to their high starch content. Keeping the skin on adds flavor, texture, and nutrients.

Put the whole unpeeled potatoes in an 8-quart pot and add enough water to cover. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer or toothpick, 25 to 30 minutes.

Cut the potatoes into chunks and pass them through a food mill or a ricer into a large heatproof bowl. Alternatively, put them in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Cover the mixing bowl with a towel to contain any splashes and mix on low speed until mostly smooth, about 1 minute.

Add the half-and-half, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper and mix the potatoes by hand with a wooden spoon until smooth, light, and fluffy. Stir in the butter until melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Potato Salad with Olives, Scallions & Garden Herbs

This potato salad is best made several hours ahead so that the flavors have time to meld. Feel free to experiment with different herbs in place of the mint, such as tarragon, oregano, or thyme. Keep the parsley, though; it makes a nice foundation.

3 lb. small to medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick

Kosher salt

1/4 cup best-quality white-wine vinegar

1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup chopped Kalamata olives

1/3 cup very thinly sliced scallions, both white and green parts

1/3 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint leaves

Put the potatoes in a 6-quart Dutch oven or similar pot and cover with cold water by at least one inch. Add 1-1/2 Tbs. salt, bring to a boil over high heat, and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook until the potatoes are just tender, 6 to 8 minutes from when the water comes to a boil (stir gently and don't overcook, or the potatoes will fall apart).

Meanwhile, in a bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk the vinegar and mustard. Whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Drain the potatoes in a colander and spread them on a rimmed baking sheet. While they're still hot, drizzle them evenly with 3 Tbs. of the dressing. Let cool completely.

Transfer the cooled potatoes to a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the olives, scallions, parsley, and mint. Pour about 1/2 cup of the remaining vinaigrette over the salad. With a large spoon or rubber spatula, gently toss. Take care to break as few of the potato slices as possible. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for at least an hour so the flavors can blend.

Just before serving, season to taste again with salt and pepper and add more dressing if the salad seems dry—you may not need all of the dressing.

Delicata Squash Salad with Fingerling Potatoes and Pomegranate Seeds

This autumnal salad is a kaleidoscope of shapes and colors.

1-1/2 lb. fingerling potatoes (about 16 medium)

1/2 cup plus 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 medium delicata squash (about 2-1/2 lb.)

2 Tbs. minced shallot

2 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice, more as needed

2 Tbs. champagne vinegar, more as needed

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. honey

10 cups packed baby arugula (about 8 ounces)

Seeds from 1 medium pomegranate (about 1 cup)

1 cup shaved or grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Tip:

You can roast the potatoes and sqaush well ahead of time, then assemble the salad just before serving.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 425°F.

Cut the potatoes lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slabs. Mound on a large
rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1/4
teaspoon salt, and toss to coat the potatoes evenly. Arrange in a snug
single layer and roast until just tender and starting to brown, 20 to 25
minutes.

While the potatoes are roasting, prepare the squash. Trim the squash, halve them lengthwise, and scoop out and discard the seeds and strings. Slice into thin half-moons, about 1/8 inch thick. Transfer to a large bowl, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and sprinkle on 1/4 teaspoon salt. With your hands, gently toss to coat evenly.

When the potatoes are out of the oven, line 2 large rimmed
baking sheets with parchment or a nonstick liner and arrange the squash slices
across them. Roast, rotating the pans after 10 minutes, until the slices are
just tender and starting to brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Be sure not to overcook,
or the squash will dry out. Note: Some slices will be darker than others even
when cooked perfectly; this provides textural interest and depth of flavor.
When done, set aside and let cool to room temperature.

In a small bowl, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, honey, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Whisk to blend, and slowly drizzle in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil, continuing to whisk vigorously.

Just before serving, put the potatoes and squash in a large bowl and drizzle with the vinaigrette. Toss well with your hands, taste, and adjust with more vinegar, lemon juice, or salt as needed.

Add the arugula, half the pomegranate seeds, and half of the Parmigiano and gently mix in with your hands. To serve, sprinkle the salad with the remaining cheese and pomegranate seeds and top with a few grinds of black pepper.

Glazed Fingerling Potato Salad with Pancetta and Warm Mustard Vinaigrette

Potatoes, crisp pancetta, and aged Gouda, along with some good-for-you greens, make for one delicious salad.

4 Tbs. unsalted butter

3/4 lb. fingerling potatoes (7 or 8 medium), quartered lengthwise

Kosher salt

2 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1/3 cup)

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs. finely chopped shallot

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper

4 oz. escarole, torn into small pieces (6 cups)

1/2 cup shaved aged Gouda (1-1/2 oz.)

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes and enough water to just cover them (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil. Add 1 tsp. salt, cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the potatoes are just tender, about 8 minutes. Uncover the pan, raise the heat to medium high, and add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until all of the liquid has reduced to a glaze and the potatoes are lightly browned, about 20 minutes more.

Meanwhile, cook the pancetta in an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off any fat from the pan, return the pan to medium heat, and add 1/2 Tbs. of the oil. Add the shallot to the pan and cook, stirring, until tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and mustard and cook until the mustard is smooth, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 4-1/2 Tbs. oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put the escarole and pancetta in a large bowl and toss with 3 Tbs. of the vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the salad and the potatoes among 4 salad plates and sprinkle with the cheese. Drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette and serve.

Crushed Potato and Watercress Cakes

Yukon Gold potatoes bring extra buttery flavor to these cakes, and their waxy texture (as opposed to a russet’s floury texture) helps hold the cakes together.

1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes

Kosher salt

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for the baking sheet

1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

1/2 lb. watercress, stemmed

1/2 cup mascarpone

Freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Scrub the potatoes and pat them dry. Put them on a baking sheet and lightly sprinkle with salt. Bake until tender when poked with a skewer, 40 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle.

While the potatoes are cooling, heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add the watercress. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, just until the watercress wilts, 1 to 2 minutes.

Put the potatoes in a large bowl and break them into small chunks with a spoon. Add the watercress mixture and the mascarpone, mix to combine, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide and shape the potato mixture into 16 equal patties, about 2 inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. (The cakes can be made to this point up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated.)

Heat the oven to 200°F. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet. Heat the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Working in 2 batches, cook the potato cakes until golden on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer each batch to the baking sheet, season lightly with salt, and keep warm in the oven for up to 30 minutes before serving.

Carrot, Fingerling Potato, and Pea Ragoût

Hearty caramelized carrots and potatoes are the base for this delicious side dish, while peas, baby spinach, lemon, and tarragon add a bright, fresh twist. Serve with roast chicken or seared fish.

1 medium lemon

1 tsp. balsamic vinegar

1 tsp. maple syrup

3-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter, chilled

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed

1-1/2lb. large carrots, cut into 2-inch-long, 1/2-inch-thick sticks

Kosher salt

12 oz. small fingerling potatoes, cut in half lengthwise (if longer than 2 inches, cut in half crosswise)

1 cup lower-salt chicken broth or water

1-1/2 tsp. minced garlic

3 oz. (about 3/4 cup) fresh peas, blanched, or frozen peas, thawed

2 oz. stemmed baby spinach leaves

2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon

Finely grate the lemon to yield 1 tsp. zest and juice it to yield 1-1/2 tsp. juice. In a small bowl, combine the zest, juice, vinegar, maple syrup, and 1 Tbs. water.

In a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven (or other deep, wide pan), heat 1 Tbs. of the butter and the olive oil over low heat. Add the carrots and 3/4 tsp. salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently but gently, until the carrots are nicely browned and just tender, about 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the carrots to a large plate.

Add 1 Tbs. butter to the remaining fat in the pan. (If there’s no fat in the pan, add 1 Tbs. olive oil too.) When the butter has melted, arrange the fingerlings cut side down in a single layer in the pan and season with 3/4 tsp. salt. Cover partially and cook, undisturbed, until the potatoes are deep golden-brown on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chicken broth or water and bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer and cover partially. Cook until the potatoes are tender and the liquid has reduced to 2 to 3 Tbs., 12 to 14 minutes.

Add the garlic to the potatoes and cook, stirring very gently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the reserved carrots and the peas, spinach, and lemon juice mixture. Stir gently until the spinach is wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. butter until just melted. Stir in the tarragon. Transfer the vegetables to a platter and serve.

Ember-Roasted Salt Potatoes with Scallion Cream

The salt potato is a wonder to behold. Those who think that they have experienced the true essence of earthy starchiness that is the potato but have not tried this method are in for a surprise. The secret is to not be afraid of the salt. A true salt potato is boiled in water salted in a ratio of 1 pound salt for every 4 pounds of potatoes. Yes, that is a lot of salt. It’s so much salt that it crystallizes on the skins of the cooked potatoes, making them look like something dug up on a paleontological excavation. But, boy, do they taste great. In this recipe the salt content is reduced and the potatoes are then further subjected to the withering heat and smoke of an aromatic fire. The result? An addictive melding of salty, crunchy, fluffy, flaky goodness.

1-1/2 lb. new potatoes (red or white)

1/4 cup kosher salt

1/2 bunch scallions, trimmed

1 cup sour cream

Place the potatoes in a pan just large enough to hold them and provide a little headroom. Cover them with cold water and add the salt. Cook over medium heat until the potatoes are fork tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and let them cool slightly.

Set the potatoes in the embers of a dying fire and cover the grill. Cook until the skins are blistered and the potatoes are heated through, about 20 minutes. Remove them from the coals and brush off any ash. Cut them in half and arrange them on a platter.

Combine the scallions and sour cream with a pinch of salt in a food processor. Purée until the mixture is smooth. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary, but consider the salt content of the potatoes!

Serve the potatoes either warm or at room temperature with the sour cream sauce.

Caramel Potatoes

It may seem odd to cook potatoes in caramel, but they’re incredibly delicious, and Christmas dinner at our house wouldn’t be the same without them. The secret to this recipe is letting the potatoes simmer slowly and gently in the caramel, turning them every now and again, to coat them layer by layer.

4-1/2 lb. baby potatoes (about 1 inch in diameter)

Kosher salt

1 cup granulated sugar

4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 8-quart pot, add cool water to cover and 1/4 cup salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a baking sheet to cool slightly, about 20 minutes. Peel.

Put the sugar in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and let it melt, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, about 6 minutes; it will be a medium amber color. Stir in the butter and 1/2 tsp. salt until the foam from the butter begins to subside, 1 to 2 minutes. The butter and caramel will be separate at this point.

Add the potatoes and stir once to coat. The caramel will seize and become stringy, but that’s OK. Use the spatula to push any hard bits of caramel to the bottom of the skillet so they can melt again; as the potatoes cook, the caramel will smooth out into a homogenous sauce. Adjust the heat to keep the caramel at a simmer and cook, occasionally turning the potatoes, until the caramel thickens and begins to coat them, about 20 minutes. Gently and constantly turn the potatoes until they are coated layer by layer with the caramel, 5 to 10 minutes more; there will still be a thin layer of caramel in the bottom of the skillet. Remove any potatoes that fall apart as you stir. Serve the potatoes with the caramel.

Potato Salad with Shrimp and Tarragon

For the dressing

1/3 cup crème fraîche

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/4 lb. baby red potatoes, scrubbed clean

1-1/2 cups cooked, diced shrimp

1-1/2 cups thinly sliced celery (include the leaves, roughly chopped)

1/2 cup sliced fresh chives

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Make the salad

Combine the vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 5 to 10 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

When the potatoes have completely cooled, gently fold the shrimp, celery, and chives into the potatoes. Fold in enough dressing to generously coat the potatoes (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

Potato Salad with Smoked Trout and Horseradish

For the dressing

1/3 cup sour cream

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. lemon juice

2 Tbs. grated fresh or strained jarred horseradish

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean

1/2 cup shredded hot-smoked trout

1 cup small-diced sweet onion

3/4 cup sliced chives

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Make the salad

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes by scraping off the skin. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With yourfingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

When the potatoes have completely cooled, gently fold the smoked trout, sweet onion, and chives into the potatoes. Fold in enough dressing to generously coat the potatoes (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

Roasted Fingerling Potatoes

If you have trouble finding fingerling potatoes, you can substitute baby red-skin potatoes; just cut any large ones in half.

8 lb. small fingerling potatoes, washed and scrubbed, skin on

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 Tbs. thinly sliced chives

1/4 cup white truffle oil (optional)

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Put two large rimmed baking sheets in the hot oven. In a large bowl, toss the potatoes, olive oil, 1-1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. When the pans are hot, divide the potatoes between the pans in a snug single layer (they should sizzle). Roast for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, and then rotate the pans. Continue to roast, stirring occasionally, until they are browned in spots and tender when pierced with a fork, about 40 minutes longer. Return the potatoes to the large bowl, add the chives and truffle oil, if using, and toss. Season to taste with more salt and pepper and pour onto a serving platter (make sure to pour all the oil in the bowl over the potatoes). Keep warm until ready to serve.

Potato Salad with Shrimp and Tarragon

For the dressing

1/3 cup crème fraîche

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/4 lb. baby red potatoes, scrubbed clean

1-1/2 cups cooked, diced shrimp

1-1/2 cups thinly sliced celery (include the leaves, roughly chopped)

1/2 cup sliced fresh chives

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Make the salad

Combine the vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 5 to 10 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Potato Salad with Peas and Pancetta

For the dressing

1/3 cup buttermilk

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

¼ cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean

1/2 lb. pancetta, cooked and crumbled

1 cup fresh peas, blanched (or substitute thawed frozen peas)

1 cup sugar snap peas, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and blanched

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl

Make the salad

Herb-Roasted Potatoes and Onions

In this dish, hardy herbs are roasted with the potatoes and onions, infusing them with flavor. Then tender herbs are tossed with the hot potatoes just before serving; the heat brings out the herbs’ flavors, but they stay green and fresh tasting.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for the baking sheet

2 lb. small (about 1-1/2-inch) potatoes, halved

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. coarsely chopped mixed hardy fresh herbs, such as rosemary, savory, and thyme

1 large onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

1/2 cup coarsely chopped mixed tender fresh herbs, such as chives, parsley, and tarragon

Flaky sea salt for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

In a medium bowl, toss the potatoes with the olive oil and 1 tsp. salt to coat.

Sprinkle the hardy herbs over the bottom of the baking sheet, spread the onion slices over the herbs, and top with the potatoes, cut side down. Scrape any olive oil remaining in the bowl over the potatoes.

Roast until the potatoes are tender and brown on the edges, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the potatoes and onions to a bowl and toss with the tender herbs. Season to taste with sea salt, if using, or kosher salt and serve.