Grilled Corn with Spiced Tasso Butter

Smoked Cajun tasso ham lends and incredible spicy, smoky note to corn that's been grilled and scraped off the cob. If you can't find tasso ham, substitute another smoked ham.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. tasso (smoked Cajun pork), minced (1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. garlic powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. onion powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sweet pimentón (smoked paprika)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground mace
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. dried sage
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  8 medium ears corn, shucked
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

In a small bowl, mix the butter, tasso, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, honey, mace, sage, cayenne, and thyme until well combined. (The tasso butter can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 2 months. Find more ways to use up the rest of the tasso at our Test Kitchen Blog.)


Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct cooking over medium (450°F) heat. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until tender and browned in spots, about 10 minutes. (The corn can be grilled 1 day ahead.)


Cut the corn kernels from the cobs. In a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, melt 2 Tbs. of the tasso butter. Add the corn and toss until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a warm serving bowl, garnish with a dollop of the remaining butter, and serve immediately.

Grilled Corn with Spiced Tasso Butter

Smoked Cajun tasso ham lends and incredible spicy, smoky note to corn that's been grilled and scraped off the cob. If you can't find tasso ham, substitute another smoked ham.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. tasso (smoked Cajun pork), minced (1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. garlic powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. onion powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sweet pimentón (smoked paprika)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground mace
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. dried sage
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  8 medium ears corn, shucked
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

In a small bowl, mix the butter, tasso, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, honey, mace, sage, cayenne, and thyme until well combined. (The tasso butter can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 2 months. Find more ways to use up the rest of the tasso at our Test Kitchen Blog.)


Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct cooking over medium (450°F) heat. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until tender and browned in spots, about 10 minutes. (The corn can be grilled 1 day ahead.)


Cut the corn kernels from the cobs. In a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, melt 2 Tbs. of the tasso butter. Add the corn and toss until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a warm serving bowl, garnish with a dollop of the remaining butter, and serve immediately.

Classic Bananas Foster

Created at Brennan's restaurant in New Orleans in 1951, this classic dessert was named after loyal customer Richard Foster. Firm, ripe bananas are sautéed in a rum-infused caramel sauce, then flambéed in front of diners and spooned over vanilla ice cream. For extra pyrotechnics, throw a pinch of cinnamon onto the sauce as it flames.
Read the Test Kitchen blog for tips on flambéing safely.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup banana liqueur
  
  


• 
  
  4 firm-ripe bananas, peeled, halved lengthwise, then halved crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup amber rum, such as Old New Orleans or Goslings
  
  


• 
  
  1 pint vanilla ice cream
  
  

In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar and cinnamon and cook until moist, about 1 minute. Add the banana liqueur and cook, stirring continuously, until the grainy texture disappears and the mixture rolls off the spoon in a steady stream, 1 to 2 minutes. Put the banana quarters rounded side down in the pan. Cook until the bananas begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.


Turn the bananas onto their flat sides. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the rum. Set the pan over high heat and carefully ignite the rum with a long match or grill lighter. Gently shake the pan until the flame subsides. Remove from the heat.


Place a generous scoop of ice cream in 6 to 8 individual heatproof dessert bowls. Arrange 2 to 3 pieces of sautéed banana around each scoop of ice cream. Spoon on the sauce and serve immediately.

Southern Roast Turkey and Gravy

Buttering and salting the turkey 1 to 2 days before roasting seasons the bird inside and out without the fuss of wet brining. Be sure to let the bird warm up at room temperature before roasting so it cooks up juicy and tender.

For the turkey

• 
  
  1 16-lb. fresh turkey, neck, tail, and giblets reserved for the gravy
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. paprika (hot or sweet)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. celery seed
  
  

For the gravy

• 
  
  1 small yellow onion, quartered
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium stalks celery, halved crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Butter and salt the turkey

Line a 12x16-inch heavy-duty roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Blot the turkey dry inside and out.

In a small bowl, combine the butter with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper; stir in the paprika, thyme, garlic, cayenne, and celery seed. Set aside 1/4 cup of the butter mixture for making the gravy.

Slide your hand under the turkey’s skin to loosen it from the breast and thigh meat. Using your fingers, spread the butter directly on the breast and thigh meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Season the turkey inside and out with 1-1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Tuck the wings behind the neck and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

Set the turkey breast side up in the prepared pan. Loosely cover with waxed paper or parchment and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Make the broth for the gravy

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the turkey neck, tail, giblets (excluding the liver), onion, and celery with the oil; arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until well browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the roasted ingredients to a heavy-duty 5-quart pot. Pour 1 cup of the chicken broth onto the hot baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spatula; transfer to the pot. Add the remaining broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil; lower the heat and simmer gently until reduced to 3 cups, about 1-1/2 hours. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measuring cup; discard the solids.

Roast the turkey

Uncover the turkey, discard the paper towels, and set the turkey on a V-rack in the roasting pan. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the turkey, basting occasionally after 1 hour and rotating the pan
halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the
thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. If the skin
gets too dark during roasting, tent with foil.

Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a platter or carving board. Remove the string, tent with foil, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.

Make the gravy

Pour the drippings from the turkey roasting pan into a fat separator and allow the fat to rise to the top. Transfer 1/4 cup of the fat to a 3- to 4-quart saucepan; discard the remaining fat and add the defatted drippings to the reserved broth in the measuring cup.

Add the wine and bay leaves to the roasting pan and boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve set over the measuring cup of broth.

Add the reserved butter to the fat in the saucepan and melt over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the broth mixture and bring to a boil; then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously, whisking occasionally, until the gravy is reduced to 4 cups, 8 to 16 minutes. Discard the bay leaves, stir in the parsley and thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the turkey and serve with the hot gravy.

Smoky Pork Chili with Black-Eyed Peas

The moderately spicy chiles for this smoky pork and black-eyed pea chili were chosen for their flavor, not their heat, which means you can appreciate all of the flavors in the bowl.

For the sofrito

• 
  
  6 plum tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic, peeled
  
  


• 
  
  2 large or 3 medium jalapeños, seeded and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, halved, cored, and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried ancho chiles
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried New Mexico chiles
  
  


• 
  
  2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
  
  

For the chili

• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups fresh or thawed frozen blackeyed peas (or three 15-oz. cans, drained and rinsed)
  
  


• 
  
  Sour cream, for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Thinly sliced scallions, for serving
  
  

Make the sofrito

Tip:

Sofrito is a flavoring base made from aromatic vegetables and herbs. Roasting these ingredients intensifies them.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F.

Put the tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, onion, bell pepper, vinegar, oil, oregano, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper in a 9x13-inch roasting pan and stir to combine. Roast, stirring every 15 minutes and scraping the bottom of the pan, until collapsed and very soft, about 45 minutes. Set aside.

While the vegetables roast, heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Put the ancho and New Mexico chiles in the pan and toast on both sides until blistered, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Put the chiles in a medium bowl, cover with 2 cups warm water (if they rise to the top, weight them down with a bowl), and soak until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve set over a bowl; reserve the soaking water.

Stem, seed, and coarsely chop the chiles. Put them in a food processor with the chipotle chiles and the roasted vegetables and purée until the mixture is completely smooth. Set aside.

Make the chili

Heat the vegetable oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Add the pork, cumin, chili powder, and 1 Tbs. plus 1ƒ tsp. salt; cook, stirring, until the meat is lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the sofrito and stir until thoroughly combined. Add the reserved chile water, chicken broth, and fresh black-eyed peas. Bring the chili to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the black-eyed peas are tender, about 45 minutes (if you’re using canned or frozen black-eyed peas, simmer the meat and broth for 30 minutes, add the peas, and continue to cook for 10 minutes longer). Season to taste with salt. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and scallions sprinkled over the top.

You can make the chili up to 4 days ahead; keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator and reheat gently before serving.

Banana-Rum Crêpes with Brown Sugar Whipped Cream

• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 firm, ripe bananas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 even-size dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
  
  

To make the crêpe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and the cinnamon. Next, slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, moving from the inside to outside for a smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the melted butter and rum. Chill the batter, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, and up to 24 hours.

To prepare the bananas, peel them, trim off the stem ends, and halve the fruit lengthwise. Slice each banana half crosswise into three pieces (you’ll have eighteen pieces total); set aside.

Preheat the broiler.

While the broiler is heating, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it reaches soft peaks. Add 2 Tbs. of the brown sugar and whip until it is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

Place an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the pan is warm, add one piece of the cold butter and three banana slices. Sauté the bananas until they are lightly golden on one side, then ladle 1/2 cup of crêpe batter into the pan. Using a rubber spatula, lightly push in the edges of the batter and swirl the pan as though you were making an omelet. Once the crêpe has formed in the pan, flip it over, spread 2 Tbs. of the remaining brown sugar evenly on top of the crêpe, and place the crêpe underneath the broiler. Once all the sugar has been caramelized and is a dark shiny amber color, carefully remove the crêpe from the pan and turn out onto a plate. Repeat the process for the rest of the crêpe batter and bananas.

Serve the crêpes dusted with confectioners’ sugar and topped with whipped cream.

Classic Bananas Foster

Created at Brennan's restaurant in New Orleans in 1951, this classic dessert was named after loyal customer Richard Foster. Firm, ripe bananas are sautéed in a rum-infused caramel sauce, then flambéed in front of diners and spooned over vanilla ice cream. For extra pyrotechnics, throw a pinch of cinnamon onto the sauce as it flames.
Read the Test Kitchen blog for tips on flambéing safely.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup banana liqueur
  
  


• 
  
  4 firm-ripe bananas, peeled, halved lengthwise, then halved crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup amber rum, such as Old New Orleans or Goslings
  
  


• 
  
  1 pint vanilla ice cream
  
  

In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar and cinnamon and cook until moist, about 1 minute. Add the banana liqueur and cook, stirring continuously, until the grainy texture disappears and the mixture rolls off the spoon in a steady stream, 1 to 2 minutes. Put the banana quarters rounded side down in the pan. Cook until the bananas begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.


Turn the bananas onto their flat sides. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the rum. Set the pan over high heat and carefully ignite the rum with a long match or grill lighter. Gently shake the pan until the flame subsides. Remove from the heat.


Place a generous scoop of ice cream in 6 to 8 individual heatproof dessert bowls. Arrange 2 to 3 pieces of sautéed banana around each scoop of ice cream. Spoon on the sauce and serve immediately.

Banana-Rum Crêpes with Brown Sugar Whipped Cream

• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 firm, ripe bananas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 even-size dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
  
  

To make the crêpe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and the cinnamon. Next, slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, moving from the inside to outside for a smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the melted butter and rum. Chill the batter, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, and up to 24 hours.

To prepare the bananas, peel them, trim off the stem ends, and halve the fruit lengthwise. Slice each banana half crosswise into three pieces (you’ll have eighteen pieces total); set aside.

Preheat the broiler.

While the broiler is heating, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it reaches soft peaks. Add 2 Tbs. of the brown sugar and whip until it is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

Place an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the pan is warm, add one piece of the cold butter and three banana slices. Sauté the bananas until they are lightly golden on one side, then ladle 1/2 cup of crêpe batter into the pan. Using a rubber spatula, lightly push in the edges of the batter and swirl the pan as though you were making an omelet. Once the crêpe has formed in the pan, flip it over, spread 2 Tbs. of the remaining brown sugar evenly on top of the crêpe, and place the crêpe underneath the broiler. Once all the sugar has been caramelized and is a dark shiny amber color, carefully remove the crêpe from the pan and turn out onto a plate. Repeat the process for the rest of the crêpe batter and bananas.

Serve the crêpes dusted with confectioners’ sugar and topped with whipped cream.

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.

• 
  
  1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

New Orleans-Style Anasazi Beans and Rice

In New Orleans, red beans and rice, affectionately called “red and white,” is traditionally served on a Monday as a way to use up Sunday dinner’s ham bone. Here, smoked sausage lends its spicy flavor to the rice and meaty Anasazi beans. For this recipe, it’s not essential to keep the beans’ shape intact—you want them to be very soft.

• 
  
  1 lb. (2-1/2 cups) dried Anasazi beans
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. pure olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. fully cooked andouille or other spicy smoked sausage, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium celery stalks with leaves, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium scallions, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green or yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  Hot pepper sauce, for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Jarred pickled jalapeños, for serving
  
  

Spread the beans out and pick through them, discarding any rocks, bits of debris, and shriveled beans. Rinse the beans under cold water to remove any dust or dirt. Put the beans in a large metal bowl with enough cool water to cover by about 3 inches. Soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours, adding more water if the level gets low. To see if the beans have soaked long enough, cut one in half. It should be the same color at its center as it is at the edge. Drain and rinse.

 

Tip:

A long soak is the best way to ensure even cooking of the beans, but if you're short on time, you can do a quick soak in lieu of the step above: Put the beans in a large pot with enough cool water to cover by about 3 inches. Bring to a boil; boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 1 to 2 hours. Drain and rinse.

Put the beans in a 6-quart Dutch oven. Add 2 quarts cool water, or enough to cover the beans by about 3/4 inch. Bring just to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally and adding hot water if necessary to keep the beans submerged, until they begin to soften, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often, until browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the celery, scallions, bell pepper, onion, 1/2 cup of the parsley, the bay leaf, thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the sausage mixture to the beans and return to a simmer. Continue to simmer, stirring often, until the beans are very tender and the liquid is very thick, about 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring 4 cups water to a boil in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan over high heat. Add the rice and 1-1/2 tsp. salt, stir once, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes

Discard the bay leaf from the beans, stir in the remaining 1/2 cup parsley, and season to taste with salt and hot pepper sauce. Serve the beans over the rice, with the hot pepper sauce and pickled jalapeños with their liquid on the side.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 
  
  6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Buttermilk Beignets

You haven't visited New Orleans if you haven't had a beignet at Cafe Du Monde in the French Market. When making these at home, have plenty of confectioners' sugar on hand and serve the beignets with a fresh pot of coffee.

• 
  
  3/4 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups buttermilk
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. active dry yeast 
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 Tbs. sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 cups bread flour plus extra for flouring work surface
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp.baking soda
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  Peanut oil for frying
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar for serving, as much as you think you’ll need—then double that!
  
  

Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until small bubbles form at the surface. Remove from the heat, add the buttermilk, and then pour into a stand mixer bowl. Whisk in the yeast and the sugar and set aside for 5 minutes. Add the flour, baking soda, and salt, and mix on low speed, using a dough hook, until the dry ingredients are moistened, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase the mixer speed to medium and continue mixing until the dough forms a loose ball and is still quite wet and tacky, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set the dough aside in a draft-free spot for 1 hour.


Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a depth of 3 inches and bring to a temperature of 375°F over medium heat (this will take about 20 minutes). Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.


Lightly flour your work surface and turn the dough out on it. Sprinkle the top of the dough with flour, gently press to flatten, fold it in half, and gently tuck the ends under to create a rough-shaped round. Dust again and roll the dough out into a 1/2-inch- to 1/3-inch-thick circle. Let the dough rest for 1 minute before using a chef’s knife, a bench knife, or a pizza wheel to cut the dough into 1-1/2-inch squares (you should get about 48).


Gently stretch a beignet lengthwise and carefully drop it into the oil. Add a few beignets (don’t overcrowd them, otherwise the oil will cool down and the beignets will soak up oil and be greasy) and fry until puffed and golden brown, turning them often with a slotted spoon, for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the prepared plate to drain while you cook the rest. Serve while still warm, buried under a mound of confectioners’ sugar, with hot coffee on the side.

Chocolate Cupped Cakes with Coffee and Chicory

This coffee and chicory "cupped cake" is made with a stiff, eggless cake batter that gets topped with a cocoa crumble and then covered with coffee. Baked in actual coffee cups, the cake soufflés up and makes its own built-in lava sauce on the bottom. It’s fantastic eaten within an hour or two of baking, while the cake is still warm, soft, and molten.

• 
  
  2 cups plus 2 Tbs. sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
  
  


• 
  
  3 tsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. instant espresso powder
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup brewed New Orleans-style chicory coffee
  
  

Heat the oven to 350°F. Spray the insides of 6 large oven-safe coffee cups or six 6-oz. ramekins with nonstick cooking spray and place on a rimmed baking sheet.


To make the cocoa sprinkle, whisk 1/4 cup of the sugar, the light brown sugar, and 2 Tbs. of the cocoa powder in a small bowl until most of the brown sugar lumps are broken up, and set aside.


Using a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer), blend the butter and remaining sugar together on medium speed until the sugar looks like wet sand, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and add the cream and vanilla, mixing until well blended, using a rubber spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as necessary.


Whisk the flour, the remaining cocoa powder, espresso powder, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl and then add it to the butter mixture. Mix on low speed until a stiff dough comes together, then increase the speed to medium and beat for 15 seconds.


Divide the batter between the coffee cups, filling each one about half full, using the back of a spoon to press the batter into the cup. Top each with 2 Tbs. of the reserved cocoa sprinkle and then pour 3 Tbs. of coffee over the cocoa. Bake until the cakes soufflé up and the top of each cake is crusty and dry on top with no visible wet spots, about 55 minutes to 1 hour. Cool for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Banana-Rum Crêpes with Brown Sugar Whipped Cream

• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 firm, ripe bananas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 even-size dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
  
  

To make the crêpe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and the cinnamon. Next, slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, moving from the inside to outside for a smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the melted butter and rum. Chill the batter, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, and up to 24 hours.

To prepare the bananas, peel them, trim off the stem ends, and halve the fruit lengthwise. Slice each banana half crosswise into three pieces (you’ll have eighteen pieces total); set aside.

Preheat the broiler.

While the broiler is heating, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it reaches soft peaks. Add 2 Tbs. of the brown sugar and whip until it is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

Place an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the pan is warm, add one piece of the cold butter and three banana slices. Sauté the bananas until they are lightly golden on one side, then ladle 1/2 cup of crêpe batter into the pan. Using a rubber spatula, lightly push in the edges of the batter and swirl the pan as though you were making an omelet. Once the crêpe has formed in the pan, flip it over, spread 2 Tbs. of the remaining brown sugar evenly on top of the crêpe, and place the crêpe underneath the broiler. Once all the sugar has been caramelized and is a dark shiny amber color, carefully remove the crêpe from the pan and turn out onto a plate. Repeat the process for the rest of the crêpe batter and bananas.

Serve the crêpes dusted with confectioners’ sugar and topped with whipped cream.

Grilled Corn with Spiced Tasso Butter

Smoked Cajun tasso ham lends and incredible spicy, smoky note to corn that's been grilled and scraped off the cob. If you can't find tasso ham, substitute another smoked ham.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. tasso (smoked Cajun pork), minced (1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. garlic powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. onion powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sweet pimentón (smoked paprika)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground mace
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. dried sage
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  8 medium ears corn, shucked
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

In a small bowl, mix the butter, tasso, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, honey, mace, sage, cayenne, and thyme until well combined. (The tasso butter can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 2 months. Find more ways to use up the rest of the tasso at our Test Kitchen Blog.)


Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct cooking over medium (450°F) heat. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until tender and browned in spots, about 10 minutes. (The corn can be grilled 1 day ahead.)


Cut the corn kernels from the cobs. In a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, melt 2 Tbs. of the tasso butter. Add the corn and toss until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a warm serving bowl, garnish with a dollop of the remaining butter, and serve immediately.

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
  
  


• 
  
  1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
  

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Seafood Gumbo

If you can, buy fresh shrimp with the shells and heads intact. If not, just the shells can be used to make the stock.

• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. medium shrimp (41 to 50 or 51 to 60 per lb.) or 2 lb. if using head-on shrimp
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped white onion (about 1 large onion; reserve the skin)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped celery (about 2 medium stalks; reserve the trimmings)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 6 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. fresh or thawed frozen okra, sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped green bell pepper (about 1 medium pepper)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat (about 1-1/2 cups), picked over for shells, or 4 to 6 gumbo crabs (about 1 lb. total), thawed (see note at right)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh shucked oysters (halved if large)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 8)
  
  


• 
  
  
  Louisiana-style hot sauce, to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup hot cooked white rice per serving
  
  

Tip:

Gumbo crabs are small blue crabs that have been cleaned and halved or quartered. They are served in the shell, and you pick out the meat as you eat the gumbo. They’re available frozen, usually in 1-pound packages. Ask your fishmonger to get you some if you can’t find them in your grocery. Fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat is a reasonable alternative. Do not use shredded or imitation crabmeat.

Make the shrimp stock:

Remove the shrimp heads, if necessary. Peel and devein the shrimp and refrigerate the shrimp until needed. Combine the shrimp peels and heads and the reserved onion skin and celery trimmings in a 6- to 8-quart pot. Cover with 9 cups of cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a vigorous simmer and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Strain and reserve. You should have about 2 quarts.

Prepare the okra:

In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat 1/4 cup of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until hot. Fry the okra in two batches until it becomes lightly browned on the edges, 3 to 5 minutes per batch (fry undisturbed for the first minute or two until browning begins and then stir once or twice to flip most pieces and brown evenly). With a slotted spoon, transfer each batch of okra to a plate or platter lined with a paper towel.

Make the roux:

Heat the remaining 6 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat in a 6-quart Dutch oven. Once it’s hot, add the flour and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula until the roux reaches the color of caramel, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and stir until the roux deepens to a chocolate-brown, 1 to 3 minutes. Add the celery and bell pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp stock, okra, tomatoes, gumbo crabs (if using), thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Adjust the heat to medium-low or low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes.

Serve the gumbo:

Five minutes before serving, add the shrimp, fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat (if using), oysters, and scallions. Add hot sauce, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve in large soup bowls over 1/4 cup cooked rice per serving. Pass additional hot sauce at the table.

Southern Roast Turkey and Gravy

Buttering and salting the turkey 1 to 2 days before roasting seasons the bird inside and out without the fuss of wet brining. Be sure to let the bird warm up at room temperature before roasting so it cooks up juicy and tender.

For the turkey

• 
  
  1 16-lb. fresh turkey, neck, tail, and giblets reserved for the gravy
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. paprika (hot or sweet)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. celery seed
  
  

For the gravy

• 
  
  1 small yellow onion, quartered
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium stalks celery, halved crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Butter and salt the turkey

Line a 12x16-inch heavy-duty roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Blot the turkey dry inside and out.

In a small bowl, combine the butter with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper; stir in the paprika, thyme, garlic, cayenne, and celery seed. Set aside 1/4 cup of the butter mixture for making the gravy.

Slide your hand under the turkey’s skin to loosen it from the breast and thigh meat. Using your fingers, spread the butter directly on the breast and thigh meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Season the turkey inside and out with 1-1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Tuck the wings behind the neck and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

Set the turkey breast side up in the prepared pan. Loosely cover with waxed paper or parchment and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Make the broth for the gravy

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the turkey neck, tail, giblets (excluding the liver), onion, and celery with the oil; arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until well browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the roasted ingredients to a heavy-duty 5-quart pot. Pour 1 cup of the chicken broth onto the hot baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spatula; transfer to the pot. Add the remaining broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil; lower the heat and simmer gently until reduced to 3 cups, about 1-1/2 hours. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measuring cup; discard the solids.

Roast the turkey

Uncover the turkey, discard the paper towels, and set the turkey on a V-rack in the roasting pan. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the turkey, basting occasionally after 1 hour and rotating the pan
halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the
thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. If the skin
gets too dark during roasting, tent with foil.

Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a platter or carving board. Remove the string, tent with foil, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.

Make the gravy

Pour the drippings from the turkey roasting pan into a fat separator and allow the fat to rise to the top. Transfer 1/4 cup of the fat to a 3- to 4-quart saucepan; discard the remaining fat and add the defatted drippings to the reserved broth in the measuring cup.

Add the wine and bay leaves to the roasting pan and boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve set over the measuring cup of broth.

Add the reserved butter to the fat in the saucepan and melt over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the broth mixture and bring to a boil; then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously, whisking occasionally, until the gravy is reduced to 4 cups, 8 to 16 minutes. Discard the bay leaves, stir in the parsley and thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the turkey and serve with the hot gravy.

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.

• 
  
  1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Gumbo Ya Ya

Bone-in chicken gives the stew more flavor; the meat becomes so tender that it falls from the bone. If, however, you don’t feel like fishing out the bones later, you can use the same amount of boneless thighs; they will likely take less time to cook, so check for tenderness sooner.

• 
  
  3 Tbs. plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. skinless chicken thighs, preferably bone-in
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium bunch celery, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  4 large onions, diced
  
  


• 
  
  4 green or red bell peppers, diced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 tsp. cayenne or 5 fresh cayenne peppers, diced
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried basil
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  4 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  8 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked sausage, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. filé powder
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups cooked white rice
  
  


• 
  
  Chopped scallions for garnish
  
  


• 
  
  Tabasco or other Louisiana-style hot sauce
  
  

In a heavy-based soup pot, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over high heat until almost smoking. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously with salt and pepper, dust it with 1/4 cup of the flour, and shake off the excess. Sear the chicken in the hot oil until golden brown, turning once to brown both sides, 4 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and set aside.


Let the oil reheat for a minute and then reduce the heat to medium high and add the celery, onions, and peppers and cook until soft, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching. Remove the vegetables and any liquid from the pan and set aside. Add 3/4 cup oil to the pot and let it heat up for a minute over medium heat. Slowly add the remaining flour to the pan and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the color of chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir carefully, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to prevent scorching. Pay attention not to burn the roux; if you do burn it, you’ll have to start over.


When the roux has reached a good mahogany brown, return the cooked vegetables to the pot, along with the garlic, cayenne, oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves. Stir to scrape the bottom of the pot and cook until well combined, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.


Slowly add the broth while stirring until smoothly blended. Add the chicken and the sausage. Bring to a simmer and skim off excess fat. Simmer uncovered, skimming any foam or fat that rises to the surface, until the chicken meat is so tender that it falls easily from the bones, about 2 hours (begin checking earlier). Remove the bones from the pot and discard.


Return the soup to a boil and stir in the filé powder, stirring vigorously to avoid clumping, until the filé powder is dissolved. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Serve the gumbo in bowls over the cooked white rice with chopped scallions and Tabasco to taste.