Yuca Fries with Garlic Mojo

Mojo (mo-ho) is the Caribbean word for “sauce,” and this garlic mojo is the perfect accompaniment to fried yuca. Peeled frozen yuca chunks can be substituted for fresh (don’t defrost before boiling).

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 large fresh yuca (about 1-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped garlic (about 8 large cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  4 to 5 cups vegetable oil for frying
  
  

Fill a 4- to 5-quart pot halfway with well-salted water and bring to a boil over high heat.

Completely remove the yuca’s brown skin and the purple layer under it with a vegetable peeler. Cut crosswise into 3-inch cylinders and halve the cylinders lengthwise.

Boil the yuca, covered, until tender when pierced with a fork, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the yuca and transfer to a cutting board. Remove any hard, fibrous cores with a fork. Cut the yuca into 1/2-inch-thick sticks and let cool and dry.

Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Combine the olive oil, garlic, onion, lemon juice, and 2 tsp. salt in a 1-quart saucepan and set aside.

Heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil in an 11- to 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Working in batches of 12 to 15, cook the yuca, turning occasionally and separating the pieces as needed, until golden, about 6 minutes. Transfer the fries to the lined baking sheet to drain, sprinkle with salt, then transfer to another rimmed baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while cooking more batches. They’ll stay crisp in the oven for about 45 minutes.

Heat the olive oil mixture over medium heat, whisking occasionally, until fragrant and the garlic and onion are soft, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a dipping bowl and serve with the fries.

Cabbage and Mushroom Pierogi (Pierogi z Kapusta i Grzybami)

These meatless pierogi are a Christmas tradition but they're delicious on any cold night; they can be served either boiled or fried.

For the filling

• 
  
  1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 2-lb. bag refrigerated sauerkraut
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups warm water
  
  

Make the filling

Put the mushrooms in a small saucepan with 2 cups water and a pinch of salt; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the mushrooms until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms out of the liquid, transfer to a cutting board, and chop them. Strain the liquid though a fine sieve lined with a damp paper towel set over a small bowl. Rinse and drain the sauerkraut in a colander, pressing on it to release as much liquid as possible.

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sauerkraut, mushrooms, and the mushroom cooking liquid. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the liquid has evaporated and the sauerkraut is dry, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and cook, stirring often, until the flavors are blended, about 2 minutes more. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Crimson Beet Falafel

Serve these brilliant red-purple falafel with yogurt sprinkled with black sesame seeds.

• 
  
  4 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large onion, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium beets (14 oz.), scrubbed clean
  
  


• 
  
  Scant 1 cup milk
  
  


• 
  
  Scant 1 cup chickpea flour
  
  


• 
  
  Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. cooked chickpeas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  vegetable oil for deep frying
  
  

Heat 1 Tbs. of olive oil in a skillet and sauté the onion, cumin and allspice over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside in a bowl.

Cook the beets in plenty of water until three-quarters cooked (roughly 20 minutes). Drain, cool and peel the beets. Grate coarsely on a box grater (you might want to use rubber gloves to do this!).

In a medium nonstick pan, bring the milk to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Little by little, whisk in the chickpea flour until you have a smooth paste. Keep the mixture moving to avoid lumps. Season, then add the remaining olive oil and cook over low heat for 8 minutes, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Like cream puff dough, as the mixture heats, it will come away from the sides of the pan and shape into a ball.

Cool the ball of paste, then mix in the sautéed onions, chickpeas, lemon juice and grated beets. Using your hands, mold the mixture into golf-ball-sized balls and arrange on a baking sheet. Refrigerate for a couple of hours.

In a large saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 350°F. Carefully place the falafel into the oil and cook for 3-4 minutes, until tinged golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain.

Buttermilk-Battered Onion Rings

The challenge with onion rings is making the coating stick to the onions so you get both onion and crisp outer shell in every bite. The solution is a good soak in viscous buttermilk, which helps the flour and cornmeal coating adhere.

• 
  
  2 large yellow onions (about 1-1/2 lb.), sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick rounds and separated into individual rings
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 cups buttermilk
  
  


• 
  
  9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (1 cup) finely ground cornmeal
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  5 to 6 cups vegetable oil, as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Ketchup, for serving (optional)
  
  

Put the onions in a large bowl and add enough buttermilk to cover. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours. In a cake pan or pie plate, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet fitted with a rack. Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels.

Pour 1 inch of oil into a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot and clip a deep-fry thermometer to the side of the pot. Heat over medium heat until the thermometer registers 350°F. Working in batches of 4 or 5, remove the rings from the buttermilk, letting any excess drip off, then dredge in the flour mixture, knocking off the excess.

Carefully lower the rings into the oil and fry until lightly browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, gently turn the rings over and continue to fry, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a steady temperature, until golden-brown all over, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the paper towels to drain. Sprinkle generously with kosher salt, then transfer to the rack on the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.

Continue to fry the onions in batches, letting the oil return to 350°F between batches and replacing the paper towels on the plate as needed. Serve with ketchup, if you like.

Fried Squash Blossoms

Dipped in a simple tempura-like batter and fried, squash blossoms can be a crisp, unexpectedly succulent pre-dinner snack.

• 
  
  6 oz. (1-1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups cold plain seltzer (one 12-oz. can)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  10 to 12 squash blossoms, stamens removed
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 200°F.


In a medium bowl, combine the flour and a heaping 1/4 tsp. salt. Add the seltzer and stir to blend. The mixture should be the consistency of a semi-lumpy but loose pancake batter.


Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. When a drop of batter sizzles in the pan, the oil is ready. Holding its stem end, dip a blossom into the batter. Swirl it around to coat. Drag the end of the blossom over the bowl’s edge to remove excess batter. Gently lay the blossom in the pan and repeat with 4 or 5 more blossoms, depending on the size (don’t over-crowd the pan). Cook until the blossoms are light golden-brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn the blossoms with tongs and cook until light golden-brown on the other side, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the blossoms to a rack covered with paper towels and set over a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and transfer to the oven to keep warm. Return the skillet to medium heat and repeat with the remaining blossoms.

Spicy Carrot Fritters

Shredded carrots together with potatoes create a golden twist on traditioal latkes. Serve them with a dollop of sour cream, or play up their spiciness with a homemade salsa.

• 
  
  2 cups shredded carrots
  
  


• 
  
  1 large potato, grated
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped scallions (green parts only)
  
  


• 
  
  3 eggs, lightly beaten
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients except the vegetable oil. The batter will be loose.

In a large skillet, heat 1/4 cup of vegetable oil over high heat until the oil is shimmering, but not smoking. Use a 1/4 cup measuring cup to scoop the batter into the skillet. Put as many fritters in the pan as will fit without crowding. Cook them, turning once, until golden brown on both sides. Remove the fritters from the skillet  and place them on paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining mixture until all the fritters are cooked. Serve immediately.

Chicken Cutlets with Cacciatore Farro Salad and Red Pepper Aïoli

In this riff on classic chicken cacciatore, crisp panko-crusted chicken cutlets and a hearty farro salad are balanced here by bright, fresh arugula, while the creamy aïoli ties the dish together.

For the aïoli

• 
  
  3 large red bell peppers
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil; more for the peppers
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium clove garlic, peeled
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the farro salad

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. (2 cups) pearled farro
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red onion, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium celery stalks, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  5 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup using a rasp grater); more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh oregano leaves, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the chicken:

• 
  
  5 oz. (1-1/2 cups) rice flour or cornstarch
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, beaten
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups panko
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/4 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  6 6-oz. boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, tenders removed
  
  


• 
  
  5 to 8 Tbs. canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. baby arugula (about 3 cups lightly packed)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  

Make the aïoli

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F.

Halve and seed the bell peppers and rub them with oil. Set them cut side down on a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet and roast until just tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to steam, 10 minutes. Pull off and discard the skins. Reserve 4 pepper halves for the farro salad.

Coarsely chop the remaining 2 pepper halves and put in a blender with the mayonnaise, olive oil, garlic, and 2 Tbs. water. Purée until very smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

Make the farro salad

Fill a 4-quart saucepan three-quarters full with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in 2 Tbs. salt and the farro. Cook until tender, 15 to 18 minutes. Drain the farro and spread it on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 Tbs. of the oil and toss to prevent it from sticking.

Cut the reserved roasted peppers into small dice. In an 11-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 minutes more. Add the wine and simmer vigorously until reduced by half, about 12 minutes. Stir in the farro, butter, cheese, oregano, balsamic, and roasted peppers. Season to taste with salt and pepper and more Parmigiano-Reggiano. Remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm.

Cook the chicken

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F.

Put the rice flour in a shallow bowl. Lightly beat the eggs in a second shallow bowl. In a third, combine the panko with the parsley, Parmigiano-Reggiano, 2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper.

Butterfly the chicken breasts: Slice the thick part of each breast horizontally almost in half so you can open it like a book. Using a meat mallet, pound each chicken breast between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to an even thickness. Season the chicken with salt and pepper.

Dredge each piece of chicken in the flour, shaking off the excess, then in the egg, letting the excess drip off, and then in the panko mixture to coat well. Transfer to a plate.

Heat 3 Tbs. of the canola oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering hot—a few crumbs dropped in the oil should sizzle immediately. Cook 2 of the chicken breasts, flipping once with tongs, until golden-brown and just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain briefly, then to a rimmed baking sheet; keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining chicken in 2 batches, cleaning the pan and adding more oil as necessary.

In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with the lemon juice and a pinch of salt, then toss with the olive oil and season with pepper to taste.

Transfer the chicken breasts to a cutting board and cut them into thirds. Serve with the farro, aïoli, and arugula.

Buttermilk-Battered Onion Rings

The challenge with onion rings is making the coating stick to the onions so you get both onion and crisp outer shell in every bite. The solution is a good soak in viscous buttermilk, which helps the flour and cornmeal coating adhere.

• 
  
  2 large yellow onions (about 1-1/2 lb.), sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick rounds and separated into individual rings
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 cups buttermilk
  
  


• 
  
  9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (1 cup) finely ground cornmeal
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  5 to 6 cups vegetable oil, as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Ketchup, for serving (optional)
  
  

Put the onions in a large bowl and add enough buttermilk to cover. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours. In a cake pan or pie plate, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet fitted with a rack. Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels.

Pour 1 inch of oil into a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot and clip a deep-fry thermometer to the side of the pot. Heat over medium heat until the thermometer registers 350°F. Working in batches of 4 or 5, remove the rings from the buttermilk, letting any excess drip off, then dredge in the flour mixture, knocking off the excess.

Carefully lower the rings into the oil and fry until lightly browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, gently turn the rings over and continue to fry, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a steady temperature, until golden-brown all over, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the paper towels to drain. Sprinkle generously with kosher salt, then transfer to the rack on the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.

Continue to fry the onions in batches, letting the oil return to 350°F between batches and replacing the paper towels on the plate as needed. Serve with ketchup, if you like.

Zucchini Fritters (Kolokithakia keftedes)

If you’re making both the fritters and the lamb meatballs, you can strain and reuse the fritter oil to fry the meatballs. Use a metal sieve, as the oil will be hot.

• 
  
  1 lb. zucchini (about 3 medium)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped fennel stalks and leaves (save the bulb for another recipe)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 1-1/2 cups olive oil for frying
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup grated Greek kefalotyri cheese or Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
  
  

Trim the zucchini and coarsely grate them on a box grater. Put the grated zucchini in a colander and squeeze out as much liquid as possible with your hands.

In a medium bowl, combine the zucchini, onion, flour, fennel, dill, baking powder, oregano, nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper and mix well. The mixture should be just moist enough to form into patties. For each fritter, press 2 generous Tbs. of the mixture into a patty about 3 inches in diameter and 1/4 inch thick. Arrange them in a single layer on a cookie sheet.

Pour the oil into a 12-inch skillet to a depth of 1/4 inch. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it begins to ripple and bubbles immediately when the edge of one patty is dipped into it. Using 2 slotted metal spatulas (one to lift a patty and the other to push it off the spatula), add as many patties as will fit in the pan without crowding and fry, flipping once, until golden brown and crisp on both sides, 1 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the fritters to a paper-towel-lined plate and repeat with another batch, adding more oil as needed.

Arrange the fritters on a platter and sprinkle with both cheeses. Serve warm.

Fried Chickpeas with Garam Masala

Once you start eating these crispy spiced chickpeas, you won’t want to stop. They do pop in the pan as they fry, so use a splatter guard or stand back a bit as they cook.

• 
  
  1 15-oz. can chickpeas
  
  


• 
  
  About 1 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. garam masala
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and pat completely dry with paper towels. Pour the olive oil into a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat to a depth of 1/4 inch. Heat the oil until shimmering hot. Add the chickpeas, cover with a splatter screen if you have one, and fry, shaking the pan occasionally, until browned, crisp, and beginning to split open, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Immediately sprinkle with the garam masala and salt to taste. Serve hot.

Crispy Tofu with Sesame Asparagus and Dipping Sauce

A coating of panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) is the secret to these ultracrisp tofu triangles. Hoisin sauce does double duty, adding flavor to the tofu’s coating and serving as a sweet-tangy dipping sauce.

• 
  
  1 14-oz. package extra-firm tofu, drained
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup plus 3 Tbs. hoisin sauce
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. seasoned rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. Asian chili garlic sauce
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups panko
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup cornstarch
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. peanut oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. medium asparagus, trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
  
  

Slice the tofu in half crosswise. Slice each half once on the diagonal, lay cut side down, and cut each vertically into 3 slices, to make 12 triangles. Arrange the slices on double-thick layers of paper towels and press to remove as much moisture as possible. Repeat as necessary to dry the tofu well.

In a small bowl, whisk 1/2 cup of the hoisin sauce, 3 Tbs. of the vinegar, and the chili-garlic sauce. Set aside.

In a shallow dish, lightly beat the eggs with the remaining 3 Tbs. hoisin sauce and 1 Tbs. vinegar, 2 tsp. of the sesame oil, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Put the panko and cornstarch in separate shallow bowls. Lightly season the tofu on both sides with salt. Dredge each piece of tofu in the cornstarch, shaking off the excess, then in the egg mixture, and then in the panko, setting the triangles on a plate as you finish each one.

Heat 1/4 cup of the peanut oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add half of the tofu triangles and cook, turning once, until golden and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate, and season lightly with kosher salt. Repeat with the remaining tofu.

Wipe out the skillet, add the remaining 1 Tbs. peanut oil and return to medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the asparagus, and cook, turning, until crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tsp. sesame oil and toss well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve the tofu and asparagus with the dipping sauce on the side.

Salt Cod and Crab Fritters

You can prepare the fritters ahead and then fry them when you’re ready to eat. Save the potato skins for Potato Skin Curls with Fresh Herbs.

• 
  
  8 oz. dried salt cod
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes (3 or 4), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. hot pepper sauce; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, separated
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat, drained well and picked over
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  

The day before you plan to serve the fritters, rinse the salt cod well under cool running water to remove any surface salt. Put it in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times.


Bring a 4-quart saucepan filled with enough water to accommodate the cod (about 3 quarts) to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the soaked cod, and simmer gently until it flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain well and let cool. Remove and discard any bits of skin, bone, or spongy ends.


Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add 1 Tbs. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl, and mash well. Set aside.


In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add to the mashed potatoes.


Pulse the cooked cod in a food processor until finely shredded. Add the cod to the potatoes, along with the cilantro and hot sauce. Mix well and season to taste with salt and more hot pepper sauce. Stir in the egg yolk and then gently fold in the crab. In a small bowl, whisk the egg white to soft peaks and gently fold it into the cod mixture.


Pinch off walnut-size pieces of the cod mixture, roll them into balls, and set aside on a tray. (The recipe may be prepared up to this point 2 hours ahead; keep refrigerated.)


Heat 1-1/2 inches of vegetable oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 360°F on a deep fat/candy thermometer. Fry the fritters in batches of 4 or 5 until golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt while still sizzling. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Fried Chickpeas with Garam Masala

Once you start eating these crispy spiced chickpeas, you won’t want to stop. They do pop in the pan as they fry, so use a splatter guard or stand back a bit as they cook.

• 
  
  1 15-oz. can chickpeas
  
  


• 
  
  About 1 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. garam masala
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and pat completely dry with paper towels. Pour the olive oil into a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat to a depth of 1/4 inch. Heat the oil until shimmering hot. Add the chickpeas, cover with a splatter screen if you have one, and fry, shaking the pan occasionally, until browned, crisp, and beginning to split open, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Immediately sprinkle with the garam masala and salt to taste. Serve hot.

Homemade Tortilla Chips

Nothing beats warm, salty, homemade tortilla chips when you're serving guacamole or other dips, and they couldn't be easier to make. In fact, they're so good, you might want to make a double batch while the oil is hot.

• 
  
  2 to 3 quarts peanut or canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  One 10-pack 6-inch corn tortillas
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Pour the oil into a 6-quart pot to a depth of at least 2 inches and set over medium-high heat. While the oil heats, stack the tortillas and, cutting through the entire stack, cut the tortillas into six wedges each. When the oil is shimmering hot but not smoking, drop in a piece of tortilla. If the oil is hot enough, the tortilla will float to the surface and brown in about 1 minute. If it’s not hot enough, it will sink.


Fry as many chips as you can at a time without overcrowding the pot (it may be just a handful), turning halfway through, until they’re lightly colored, about 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chips to a large paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat.


Put the warm chips in a clean paper bag, add 1/4 tsp. salt, close the bag, and gently shake to season them. Season with more salt to taste.

Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp with Rémoulade Sauce

A shot of hot sauce in the batter counters the sweetness of the shrimp, which get a double dose of crunch from a coating of shredded coconut and panko. A cast iron pan is ideal for frying these shrimp because it holds a
fairly constant temperature even when shrimp are added to the oil. As a result, the shrimp's coating is quickly sealed and absorbs less oil.

For the rémoulade sauce

• 
  
  1/2 cup mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced celery
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced shallot
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely chopped capers
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. whole-grain mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1 small orange, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 1-1/2 tsp. juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
  

For the shrimp

• 
  
  about 4-1/2 cups peanut or canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Cajun seasoning
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup pale lager beer, such as Corona
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. Frank’s RedHot Original cayenne pepper sauce or other hot sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup panko
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
  
  


• 
  
  12 colossal (13 to 15 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact
  
  

Make the rémoulade sauce

In a small bowl, combine all of the sauce ingredients and set aside.

Coat and fry the shrimp

Clip a deep fat/candy thermometer to the side of a 12-inch cast-iron skillet and add enough oil to measure 3/4 inch deep. Heat to 360°F over medium heat.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, Cajun seasoning, and 1/2 tsp. salt; then slowly whisk in the beer and hot sauce to make a smooth batter. In a shallow bowl, combine the panko and shredded coconut.

Holding a shrimp by its tail, dip it into the batter, letting any excess drip off, then dredge it in the panko mixture, pressing and rolling it several times to coat well. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining shrimp.

Fry the shrimp in the hot oil, turning once with tongs, until golden-brown, about 2 minutes. If necessary, adjust the heat to maintain the oil at 360°F. Transfer the shrimp with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain briefly.

Serve the shrimp with the rémoulade sauce.

Classic French Fries

There are three secrets to restaurant-quality French fries at home: choose the right potatoes (see tip below), cut them uniformly, and fry them twice. The first fry, at a lower temperature, softens and cook the potatoes, while the second fry browns them to crispy perfection. For more-rustic-looking fries that have a slightly earthy note, leave the peel on the potatoes; this also makes prep that much easier.

• 
  
  2 lb. Burbank russet potatoes (about 3 large), peeled if you like
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 quarts canola oil or peanut oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt or coarse sea salt
  
  

Tip:

Burbank russets develop a crisper texture and cook more evenly than the other widely available variety of russet potato, Norkotah. If the variety isn't indicated on the bag, try asking the produce manager which variety is typically stocked. Russets may also be labeled as Idaho or baking potatoes.

Cut each potato lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick disks, then cut these disks lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick sticks. Try to keep your cuts uniform so the potatoes cook evenly.

Soak the potato sticks in cold water for 20 minutes. Drain and rinse the potatoes in 3 changes of fresh cold water, draining after each rinse. Let the potatoes dry in a single layer on a towel-lined baking sheet.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pot that holds at least 6 quarts over medium heat until it reaches 330°F on a deep-fry thermometer.

Blot the potatoes completely dry with more towels. Gently drop one-third of the potatoes into the oil and increase the heat to medium high (the oil temperature will drop to about 300°F and then gradually rise—it’s fine if it doesn’t return to 330°F). Cook, stirring occasionally with a skimmer or a large slotted spoon, until the potatoes soften (you should be able to cut them with the side of the spoon) and are slightly blistered and creamier in color (remove them if they start to brown), 2 to 3 minutes.

Scoop out the potatoes, shaking them to drain off excess oil, and transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels, arranging them in a single layer. Fry the remaining 2 batches of potatoes in the same manner, letting the oil return to 330°F before each batch.

Heat the oil until it reaches 360°F. Add one-third of the potatoes and cook, stirring, until they turn golden-brown and become crisp (to test, carefully drain one on paper towels and try it), 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the fries to a baking sheet lined with fresh paper towels and sprinkle generously with salt. Fold the edges of the paper towels up and over the fries (to make a little pouch) and shake well so the salt is evenly distributed. Serve the fries immediately. Fry the remaining 2 batches of fries in the same manner, letting the oil return to 360°F before each batch.

Fried Goat Cheese Salad with Grapes and Hazelnuts

This bistro-style salad pairs crispy cakes of fried goat cheese with mildly bitter radicchio, peppery arugula, crunchy hazelnuts, and sweet grapes.

• 
  
  8 oz. fresh goat cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup plain panko
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dry mustard, such as Coleman’s
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. sherry vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. pure maple syrup
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup roasted hazelnut or walnut oil, or extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 small head radicchio, cored and thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. baby arugula (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. seedless red grapes, halved (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup toasted, skinned hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
  
  

Slice the goat cheese into four 2-oz. disks. Shape the disks into 2-1/2-inch cakes. Freeze in a single layer until firm, about 10 minutes.

Combine the panko, parsley, mustard, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper in a small bowl. In another small bowl, beat the egg with 1 Tbs. water.

Dip the goat cheese cakes in the egg mixture, shaking off any excess, and then in the panko mixture. Repeat, coating each cake twice.

Heat the vegetable oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering hot. Fry the cakes, flipping once, until golden-brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.

Whisk the vinegar, maple syrup, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the nut or olive oil until emulsified.

Toss the radicchio, arugula, and grapes in a large bowl with enough dressing to lightly coat. Divide the salad among 4 plates, top each with a goat cheese cake, sprinkle with the hazelnuts, and drizzle with more of the dressing.

Steak Tartare with Cinnamon, Allspice, and Sesame-Tofu Sauce

For the best steak tartare, use beef tenderloin (the tail end) and always hand-chop the meat. It should never be ground. Chef Anita Lo adds a bit of bulgur for even more texture.

For the tartare

• 
  
  8 oz. fresh beef tenderloin
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup bulgur
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped red onion
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. extra–virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  
  

For the tofu sauce

• 
  
  7 oz. silken tofu
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. Chinese sesame paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 small clove garlic, minced and mashed into a paste
  
  


• 
  
  Finely grated zest of one lemon
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Garnishes

• 
  
  1 cup canola oil, for frying
  
  


• 
  
  One 8-inch round spring roll wrapper
  
  


• 
  
  1 green onion, green parts only, cut into 2-inch thin strips
  
  


• 
  
  Extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Chinese red chili oil
  
  


• 
  
  Cayenne pepper
  
  

Make the tartare

Freeze the beef for 30 minutes in order to make it firm and easier to dice. Using a sharp knife, dice the meat into 1/8-inch cubes. Place in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to use.

Cook the bulgur according to the package directions. Rinse with cold water, drain well, and set aside until room temperature.

In a small bowl, mix the red onion, olive oil, lemon juice, cinnamon and allspice. Set aside.

Make the tofu sauce

Combine the tofu, sesame paste, garlic, lemon zest and juice, 1 tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. of pepper in a blender. Puree until the mixture is smooth, scraping down the sides of the blender as necessary, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour the sauce into a bowl and taste and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Make the garnish

Heat the canola oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat until it is shimmering hot. Using a pair of kitchen scissors, cut the spring roll wrapper into 8 triangles, by first cutting it in half, and then each half into quarters.

Heat the canola oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat until it is shimmering hot. Using a pair of kitchen scissors, cut the spring roll wrapper into 8 triangles, by first cutting it in half, and then each half into quarters.

Fry the triangles one or two at a time until they just crisp, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the triangles to paper towels to drain. Season lightly with salt.

To assemble and serve

Add the bulgur and red onion mixture to the beef, and fold the mixture together with a wooden spoon until well combined.

Divide the tartare mixture into 4 equal portions, about 3 oz. each. Position a 2 x 2-1/2-inch rectangular (or similar) mold on a plate and place a portion of the tartare into it, pressing down and spreading the mixture into the mold evenly with the back of a teaspoon, or simply scoop a portion into a mound on the plate.

Top the tartare with several strips of scallion. Spoon about 1/4 cup of the tofu sauce on the plate next to the tartare. Lightly dust the tofu sauce with the cayenne pepper. Put a few drops of chili oil and extra-virgin olive oil on the plate next to the tofu sauce. Place two of the crispy spring roll wrapper triangles on the plate. Repeat with the remaining tartare on three more plates.

Fried Egg Pitas with Arugula

The secret to this spin on a fried egg sandwich is the tapenade, a tangy, salty olive and caper spread. Look for it near the jarred olives in the supermarket, or make your own.

• 
  
  2 white or whole wheat pitas, halved crosswise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
  
  


• 
  
  4 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup tapenade, store-bought or homemade 
  
  


• 
  
  1 lightly packed cup baby arugula (about 3/4 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Position an oven rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Broil the pitas on the rack until golden on one side, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, break the eggs into the skillet and cook to your preferred doneness, 3 to 4 minutes for sunny side up, or flip and cook about 1 minute longer for over easy.

While the eggs are cooking, open the pitas and spread the tapenade evenly inside each. Divide the arugula among the pitas.

When the eggs are done, sprinkle them with a pinch of salt and pepper. Use a spatula to transfer each egg to a pita. Drizzle a little olive oil into each pita and serve immediately.

Jelly-Filled Doughnuts

This recipe uses a leaner, less sugary dough than your typical American jelly doughnut. For the best results, use either homemade preserves or best-quality local jam you can find. If your jam is very chunky, purée it in a blender or small food processor so that it will pass without effort through the tip of a pastry bag and into the doughnut.

• 
  
  17.62 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄3 cup sugar, plus more for coating the doughnuts
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. plus 1-1⁄2 tsp. instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  3⁄4 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  2.5 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. raspberry jam
  
  

Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, milk, butter, eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, and vanilla in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (the hook is not needed here, since this is a rather loose batter) and mix on low speed until smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Brush a thin layer of vegetable oil on the paper. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and divide into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a round and then flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Place the rounds seam side down on the oiled paper. Let stand uncovered at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F. Line a large platter or baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Place a few of the doughnuts in the hot oil, being careful not to crowd them in the pot.

Fry until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute. Turn and continue to fry until golden on both sides, another minute or two. Don’t worry that there is a line of light-colored dough around the perimeter of each doughnut. This will be the “soft spot” where you will insert the tip of a pastry bag to pipe in some jam. Drain the cooked doughnuts on the paper towels, roll them in sugar, and repeat with the remaining dough, keeping an eye on the thermometer to make sure the oil stays at a steady 350°F and adjusting the heat as necessary.

To fill the doughnuts, place the jam in a bowl and stir it thoroughly so that there are no lumps. Scrape it into a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Insert the tip into the soft spot of each doughnut and squeeze about 1 tsp. of the jam into the center. Serve immediately.