Banana-Rum Crêpes with Brown Sugar Whipped Cream

• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 firm, ripe bananas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 even-size dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
  
  

To make the crêpe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and the cinnamon. Next, slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, moving from the inside to outside for a smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the melted butter and rum. Chill the batter, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, and up to 24 hours.

To prepare the bananas, peel them, trim off the stem ends, and halve the fruit lengthwise. Slice each banana half crosswise into three pieces (you’ll have eighteen pieces total); set aside.

Preheat the broiler.

While the broiler is heating, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it reaches soft peaks. Add 2 Tbs. of the brown sugar and whip until it is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

Place an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the pan is warm, add one piece of the cold butter and three banana slices. Sauté the bananas until they are lightly golden on one side, then ladle 1/2 cup of crêpe batter into the pan. Using a rubber spatula, lightly push in the edges of the batter and swirl the pan as though you were making an omelet. Once the crêpe has formed in the pan, flip it over, spread 2 Tbs. of the remaining brown sugar evenly on top of the crêpe, and place the crêpe underneath the broiler. Once all the sugar has been caramelized and is a dark shiny amber color, carefully remove the crêpe from the pan and turn out onto a plate. Repeat the process for the rest of the crêpe batter and bananas.

Serve the crêpes dusted with confectioners’ sugar and topped with whipped cream.

Banana-Rum Crêpes with Brown Sugar Whipped Cream

• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 firm, ripe bananas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 even-size dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
  
  

To make the crêpe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and the cinnamon. Next, slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, moving from the inside to outside for a smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the melted butter and rum. Chill the batter, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, and up to 24 hours.

To prepare the bananas, peel them, trim off the stem ends, and halve the fruit lengthwise. Slice each banana half crosswise into three pieces (you’ll have eighteen pieces total); set aside.

Preheat the broiler.

While the broiler is heating, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it reaches soft peaks. Add 2 Tbs. of the brown sugar and whip until it is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

Place an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the pan is warm, add one piece of the cold butter and three banana slices. Sauté the bananas until they are lightly golden on one side, then ladle 1/2 cup of crêpe batter into the pan. Using a rubber spatula, lightly push in the edges of the batter and swirl the pan as though you were making an omelet. Once the crêpe has formed in the pan, flip it over, spread 2 Tbs. of the remaining brown sugar evenly on top of the crêpe, and place the crêpe underneath the broiler. Once all the sugar has been caramelized and is a dark shiny amber color, carefully remove the crêpe from the pan and turn out onto a plate. Repeat the process for the rest of the crêpe batter and bananas.

Serve the crêpes dusted with confectioners’ sugar and topped with whipped cream.

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.

• 
  
  1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

New Orleans-Style Anasazi Beans and Rice

In New Orleans, red beans and rice, affectionately called “red and white,” is traditionally served on a Monday as a way to use up Sunday dinner’s ham bone. Here, smoked sausage lends its spicy flavor to the rice and meaty Anasazi beans. For this recipe, it’s not essential to keep the beans’ shape intact—you want them to be very soft.

• 
  
  1 lb. (2-1/2 cups) dried Anasazi beans
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. pure olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. fully cooked andouille or other spicy smoked sausage, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium celery stalks with leaves, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium scallions, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green or yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  Hot pepper sauce, for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Jarred pickled jalapeños, for serving
  
  

Spread the beans out and pick through them, discarding any rocks, bits of debris, and shriveled beans. Rinse the beans under cold water to remove any dust or dirt. Put the beans in a large metal bowl with enough cool water to cover by about 3 inches. Soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours, adding more water if the level gets low. To see if the beans have soaked long enough, cut one in half. It should be the same color at its center as it is at the edge. Drain and rinse.

 

Tip:

A long soak is the best way to ensure even cooking of the beans, but if you're short on time, you can do a quick soak in lieu of the step above: Put the beans in a large pot with enough cool water to cover by about 3 inches. Bring to a boil; boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 1 to 2 hours. Drain and rinse.

Put the beans in a 6-quart Dutch oven. Add 2 quarts cool water, or enough to cover the beans by about 3/4 inch. Bring just to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally and adding hot water if necessary to keep the beans submerged, until they begin to soften, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often, until browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the celery, scallions, bell pepper, onion, 1/2 cup of the parsley, the bay leaf, thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the sausage mixture to the beans and return to a simmer. Continue to simmer, stirring often, until the beans are very tender and the liquid is very thick, about 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring 4 cups water to a boil in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan over high heat. Add the rice and 1-1/2 tsp. salt, stir once, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes

Discard the bay leaf from the beans, stir in the remaining 1/2 cup parsley, and season to taste with salt and hot pepper sauce. Serve the beans over the rice, with the hot pepper sauce and pickled jalapeños with their liquid on the side.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 
  
  6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Creole Beef Grillades and Cheese Grits

A grillade is a traditional beef or veal round cut into a square and then pounded thin to be tender. Beef round is the most suitable cut for this dish. Gardner Ranch calves are raised on a diet of grass and clover with the bare minimum of supplements, producing lean yet flavorful meat.

For the Beef Grillades

• 
  
  1 tsp. paprika
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. garlic powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. onion powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. thyme
  
  


• 
  
  One 3-pound beef shoulder, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick cutlets
  
  


• 
  
  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rendered bacon fat, or 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 stalk celery, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 small red or green bell pepper, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups canned chopped tomatoes with juices
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups beef stock
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Cheese Grits (recipe follows)
  
  


• 
  
  2 scallions (green parts only), finely chopped, for garnish
  
  

For the Cheese Grits

• 
  
  Coarse salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup stone-ground white corn grits
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mascarpone or cream cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup grated Edam or Swiss cheese
  
  

Make the Beef Grillades

To make the Creole spices, mix the paprika, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and thyme.


Season the beef with salt and pepper. Season the flour with the Creole spices, and reserve 1/4 cup. Put the remaining 1-3/4 cups flour in a large, shallow bowl, and then dredge the beef in the flour, shaking off the excess.


Heat the rendered bacon fat or butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the cutlets until golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side, making sure not to overcrowd the pan (you might need to cook in batches). Set aside the cooked cutlets on a paper towel–lined plate.


Add the onions to the same pan, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the onions are a deep mahog­any color, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, bell peppers, and garlic, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add a tablespoon of the reserved seasoned flour to the pan and mix well.


Add the tomatoes and beef stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the thyme, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and Worcestershire sauce; return the beef cutlets to the pan. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the meat is fork-tender. Discard the bay leaf. Add hot sauce to taste and more salt and pepper as desired.


To serve, put a heaping spoonful of Cheese Grits on a serving plate, top with 2 or 3 pieces of beef, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Garnish with scallions.

Make the Cheese Grits

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 5 cups of salted water to a boil while slowly whisking in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium low; cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure the grits aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pan; adjust the heat to low if the grits are cooking too quickly.


Remove the cooked grits from the heat and stir in the butter, mascarpone or cream cheese, and grated cheese. Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Calas Fried Rice Fritters

Crisp around the edges with a plump, toothsome belly, these fritters beg to be served with obscene quantities of earthy, sorghum-like cane syrup, though traditionalists may opt for confectioners’ sugar instead.

• 
  
  1/2 cup long-grain white rice (Mahatma brand if you can find it)
  
  


• 
  
  Peanut oil for frying
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  Cane syrup for serving
  
  

Tip:

I usually make calas when I have leftover rice in the fridge—whether it’s from Monday’s red beans or Chinese takeout. If using leftover rice, add 1-1/2 cups of cooked, cold rice to the batter.

Bring 1 cup of water and a pinch of salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the rice, stir once, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pan, cooking 18 to 20 minutes or until the grains of rice are plump and fluff apart with a fork. Turn the rice out onto a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and cool for 15 minutes, then transfer to a plastic container (don’t pack it in). Cover with plastic wrap and poke a few holes in the top. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 2 days.


Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a 2-1/2- to 3-inch depth and bring to a temperature between 350°F and 360°F over medium heat. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.


While the oil heats up, place the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.


Using a stand mixer or a hand mixer, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla on high speed until foamy and tripled in volume, 1-1/2 to 2 minutes. Sift in half of the dry ingredients, add the salt, and mix on low speed until only a few dry streaks remain. Sift in the remaining dry ingredients and mix on low speed for a few turns, then add the rice and mix until the fritter batter just comes together into a loose, roughly textured ball.


Once your oil is hot, dip a teaspoon in the hot oil, then into the batter and scoop out a heaping teaspoonful. Hold the spoon close to the oil and let the batter roll off and into the oil. Repeat with the remaining batter; using a slotted spoon, turn and baste the fritters occasionally, allowing them to become golden brown on all sides. (Fry the fritters in two batches if your pot becomes overcrowded.) If the temperature of the oil dips below 350°F, increase the heat to medium-high. Once the fritters are golden brown, transfer them to the prepared plate to cool slightly. Serve on a small plate drizzled with lots of cane syrup.

Banana-Rum Crêpes with Brown Sugar Whipped Cream

• 
  
  3 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  3 firm, ripe bananas
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 even-size dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
  
  

To make the crêpe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and the cinnamon. Next, slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, moving from the inside to outside for a smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the melted butter and rum. Chill the batter, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, and up to 24 hours.

To prepare the bananas, peel them, trim off the stem ends, and halve the fruit lengthwise. Slice each banana half crosswise into three pieces (you’ll have eighteen pieces total); set aside.

Preheat the broiler.

While the broiler is heating, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it reaches soft peaks. Add 2 Tbs. of the brown sugar and whip until it is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

Place an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the pan is warm, add one piece of the cold butter and three banana slices. Sauté the bananas until they are lightly golden on one side, then ladle 1/2 cup of crêpe batter into the pan. Using a rubber spatula, lightly push in the edges of the batter and swirl the pan as though you were making an omelet. Once the crêpe has formed in the pan, flip it over, spread 2 Tbs. of the remaining brown sugar evenly on top of the crêpe, and place the crêpe underneath the broiler. Once all the sugar has been caramelized and is a dark shiny amber color, carefully remove the crêpe from the pan and turn out onto a plate. Repeat the process for the rest of the crêpe batter and bananas.

Serve the crêpes dusted with confectioners’ sugar and topped with whipped cream.

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
  
  


• 
  
  1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
  

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Seafood Gumbo

If you can, buy fresh shrimp with the shells and heads intact. If not, just the shells can be used to make the stock.

• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. medium shrimp (41 to 50 or 51 to 60 per lb.) or 2 lb. if using head-on shrimp
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped white onion (about 1 large onion; reserve the skin)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped celery (about 2 medium stalks; reserve the trimmings)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 6 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. fresh or thawed frozen okra, sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped green bell pepper (about 1 medium pepper)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat (about 1-1/2 cups), picked over for shells, or 4 to 6 gumbo crabs (about 1 lb. total), thawed (see note at right)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh shucked oysters (halved if large)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 8)
  
  


• 
  
  
  Louisiana-style hot sauce, to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup hot cooked white rice per serving
  
  

Tip:

Gumbo crabs are small blue crabs that have been cleaned and halved or quartered. They are served in the shell, and you pick out the meat as you eat the gumbo. They’re available frozen, usually in 1-pound packages. Ask your fishmonger to get you some if you can’t find them in your grocery. Fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat is a reasonable alternative. Do not use shredded or imitation crabmeat.

Make the shrimp stock:

Remove the shrimp heads, if necessary. Peel and devein the shrimp and refrigerate the shrimp until needed. Combine the shrimp peels and heads and the reserved onion skin and celery trimmings in a 6- to 8-quart pot. Cover with 9 cups of cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a vigorous simmer and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Strain and reserve. You should have about 2 quarts.

Prepare the okra:

In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat 1/4 cup of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until hot. Fry the okra in two batches until it becomes lightly browned on the edges, 3 to 5 minutes per batch (fry undisturbed for the first minute or two until browning begins and then stir once or twice to flip most pieces and brown evenly). With a slotted spoon, transfer each batch of okra to a plate or platter lined with a paper towel.

Make the roux:

Heat the remaining 6 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat in a 6-quart Dutch oven. Once it’s hot, add the flour and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula until the roux reaches the color of caramel, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and stir until the roux deepens to a chocolate-brown, 1 to 3 minutes. Add the celery and bell pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp stock, okra, tomatoes, gumbo crabs (if using), thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Adjust the heat to medium-low or low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes.

Serve the gumbo:

Five minutes before serving, add the shrimp, fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat (if using), oysters, and scallions. Add hot sauce, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve in large soup bowls over 1/4 cup cooked rice per serving. Pass additional hot sauce at the table.

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.

• 
  
  1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Gumbo Ya Ya

Bone-in chicken gives the stew more flavor; the meat becomes so tender that it falls from the bone. If, however, you don’t feel like fishing out the bones later, you can use the same amount of boneless thighs; they will likely take less time to cook, so check for tenderness sooner.

• 
  
  3 Tbs. plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. skinless chicken thighs, preferably bone-in
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium bunch celery, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  4 large onions, diced
  
  


• 
  
  4 green or red bell peppers, diced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 tsp. cayenne or 5 fresh cayenne peppers, diced
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried basil
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  4 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  8 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked sausage, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. filé powder
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups cooked white rice
  
  


• 
  
  Chopped scallions for garnish
  
  


• 
  
  Tabasco or other Louisiana-style hot sauce
  
  

In a heavy-based soup pot, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over high heat until almost smoking. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously with salt and pepper, dust it with 1/4 cup of the flour, and shake off the excess. Sear the chicken in the hot oil until golden brown, turning once to brown both sides, 4 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and set aside.


Let the oil reheat for a minute and then reduce the heat to medium high and add the celery, onions, and peppers and cook until soft, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching. Remove the vegetables and any liquid from the pan and set aside. Add 3/4 cup oil to the pot and let it heat up for a minute over medium heat. Slowly add the remaining flour to the pan and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the color of chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir carefully, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to prevent scorching. Pay attention not to burn the roux; if you do burn it, you’ll have to start over.


When the roux has reached a good mahogany brown, return the cooked vegetables to the pot, along with the garlic, cayenne, oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves. Stir to scrape the bottom of the pot and cook until well combined, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.


Slowly add the broth while stirring until smoothly blended. Add the chicken and the sausage. Bring to a simmer and skim off excess fat. Simmer uncovered, skimming any foam or fat that rises to the surface, until the chicken meat is so tender that it falls easily from the bones, about 2 hours (begin checking earlier). Remove the bones from the pot and discard.


Return the soup to a boil and stir in the filé powder, stirring vigorously to avoid clumping, until the filé powder is dissolved. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Serve the gumbo in bowls over the cooked white rice with chopped scallions and Tabasco to taste.

New Orleans-Style Anasazi Beans and Rice

In New Orleans, red beans and rice, affectionately called “red and white,” is traditionally served on a Monday as a way to use up Sunday dinner’s ham bone. Here, smoked sausage lends its spicy flavor to the rice and meaty Anasazi beans. For this recipe, it’s not essential to keep the beans’ shape intact—you want them to be very soft.

• 
  
  1 lb. (2-1/2 cups) dried Anasazi beans
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. pure olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. fully cooked andouille or other spicy smoked sausage, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium celery stalks with leaves, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium scallions, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green or yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  Hot pepper sauce, for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Jarred pickled jalapeños, for serving
  
  

Spread the beans out and pick through them, discarding any rocks, bits of debris, and shriveled beans. Rinse the beans under cold water to remove any dust or dirt. Put the beans in a large metal bowl with enough cool water to cover by about 3 inches. Soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours, adding more water if the level gets low. To see if the beans have soaked long enough, cut one in half. It should be the same color at its center as it is at the edge. Drain and rinse.

 

Tip:

A long soak is the best way to ensure even cooking of the beans, but if you're short on time, you can do a quick soak in lieu of the step above: Put the beans in a large pot with enough cool water to cover by about 3 inches. Bring to a boil; boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 1 to 2 hours. Drain and rinse.

Put the beans in a 6-quart Dutch oven. Add 2 quarts cool water, or enough to cover the beans by about 3/4 inch. Bring just to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally and adding hot water if necessary to keep the beans submerged, until they begin to soften, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often, until browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the celery, scallions, bell pepper, onion, 1/2 cup of the parsley, the bay leaf, thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the sausage mixture to the beans and return to a simmer. Continue to simmer, stirring often, until the beans are very tender and the liquid is very thick, about 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring 4 cups water to a boil in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan over high heat. Add the rice and 1-1/2 tsp. salt, stir once, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes

Discard the bay leaf from the beans, stir in the remaining 1/2 cup parsley, and season to taste with salt and hot pepper sauce. Serve the beans over the rice, with the hot pepper sauce and pickled jalapeños with their liquid on the side.

Gumbo Ya Ya

Bone-in chicken gives the stew more flavor; the meat becomes so tender that it falls from the bone. If, however, you don’t feel like fishing out the bones later, you can use the same amount of boneless thighs; they will likely take less time to cook, so check for tenderness sooner.

• 
  
  3 Tbs. plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. skinless chicken thighs, preferably bone-in
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium bunch celery, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  4 large onions, diced
  
  


• 
  
  4 green or red bell peppers, diced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 tsp. cayenne or 5 fresh cayenne peppers, diced
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried basil
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  4 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  8 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked sausage, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. filé powder
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups cooked white rice
  
  


• 
  
  Chopped scallions for garnish
  
  


• 
  
  Tabasco or other Louisiana-style hot sauce
  
  

In a heavy-based soup pot, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over high heat until almost smoking. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously with salt and pepper, dust it with 1/4 cup of the flour, and shake off the excess. Sear the chicken in the hot oil until golden brown, turning once to brown both sides, 4 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and set aside.


Let the oil reheat for a minute and then reduce the heat to medium high and add the celery, onions, and peppers and cook until soft, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching. Remove the vegetables and any liquid from the pan and set aside. Add 3/4 cup oil to the pot and let it heat up for a minute over medium heat. Slowly add the remaining flour to the pan and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the color of chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir carefully, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to prevent scorching. Pay attention not to burn the roux; if you do burn it, you’ll have to start over.


When the roux has reached a good mahogany brown, return the cooked vegetables to the pot, along with the garlic, cayenne, oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves. Stir to scrape the bottom of the pot and cook until well combined, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.


Slowly add the broth while stirring until smoothly blended. Add the chicken and the sausage. Bring to a simmer and skim off excess fat. Simmer uncovered, skimming any foam or fat that rises to the surface, until the chicken meat is so tender that it falls easily from the bones, about 2 hours (begin checking earlier). Remove the bones from the pot and discard.


Return the soup to a boil and stir in the filé powder, stirring vigorously to avoid clumping, until the filé powder is dissolved. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Serve the gumbo in bowls over the cooked white rice with chopped scallions and Tabasco to taste.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 
  
  6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Creole Beef Grillades and Cheese Grits

A grillade is a traditional beef or veal round cut into a square and then pounded thin to be tender. Beef round is the most suitable cut for this dish. Gardner Ranch calves are raised on a diet of grass and clover with the bare minimum of supplements, producing lean yet flavorful meat.

For the Beef Grillades

• 
  
  1 tsp. paprika
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. garlic powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. onion powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. thyme
  
  


• 
  
  One 3-pound beef shoulder, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick cutlets
  
  


• 
  
  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rendered bacon fat, or 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 stalk celery, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 small red or green bell pepper, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups canned chopped tomatoes with juices
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups beef stock
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Cheese Grits (recipe follows)
  
  


• 
  
  2 scallions (green parts only), finely chopped, for garnish
  
  

For the Cheese Grits

• 
  
  Coarse salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup stone-ground white corn grits
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mascarpone or cream cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup grated Edam or Swiss cheese
  
  

Make the Beef Grillades

To make the Creole spices, mix the paprika, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and thyme.


Season the beef with salt and pepper. Season the flour with the Creole spices, and reserve 1/4 cup. Put the remaining 1-3/4 cups flour in a large, shallow bowl, and then dredge the beef in the flour, shaking off the excess.


Heat the rendered bacon fat or butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the cutlets until golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side, making sure not to overcrowd the pan (you might need to cook in batches). Set aside the cooked cutlets on a paper towel–lined plate.


Add the onions to the same pan, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the onions are a deep mahog­any color, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, bell peppers, and garlic, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add a tablespoon of the reserved seasoned flour to the pan and mix well.


Add the tomatoes and beef stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the thyme, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and Worcestershire sauce; return the beef cutlets to the pan. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the meat is fork-tender. Discard the bay leaf. Add hot sauce to taste and more salt and pepper as desired.


To serve, put a heaping spoonful of Cheese Grits on a serving plate, top with 2 or 3 pieces of beef, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Garnish with scallions.

Make the Cheese Grits

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 5 cups of salted water to a boil while slowly whisking in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium low; cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure the grits aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pan; adjust the heat to low if the grits are cooking too quickly.


Remove the cooked grits from the heat and stir in the butter, mascarpone or cream cheese, and grated cheese. Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Creole Beef Grillades and Cheese Grits

A grillade is a traditional beef or veal round cut into a square and then pounded thin to be tender. Beef round is the most suitable cut for this dish. Gardner Ranch calves are raised on a diet of grass and clover with the bare minimum of supplements, producing lean yet flavorful meat.

For the Beef Grillades

• 
  
  1 tsp. paprika
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. garlic powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. onion powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. thyme
  
  


• 
  
  One 3-pound beef shoulder, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick cutlets
  
  


• 
  
  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rendered bacon fat, or 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 stalk celery, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 small red or green bell pepper, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups canned chopped tomatoes with juices
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups beef stock
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Cheese Grits (recipe follows)
  
  


• 
  
  2 scallions (green parts only), finely chopped, for garnish
  
  

For the Cheese Grits

• 
  
  Coarse salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup stone-ground white corn grits
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mascarpone or cream cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup grated Edam or Swiss cheese
  
  

Make the Beef Grillades

To make the Creole spices, mix the paprika, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and thyme.


Season the beef with salt and pepper. Season the flour with the Creole spices, and reserve 1/4 cup. Put the remaining 1-3/4 cups flour in a large, shallow bowl, and then dredge the beef in the flour, shaking off the excess.


Heat the rendered bacon fat or butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the cutlets until golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side, making sure not to overcrowd the pan (you might need to cook in batches). Set aside the cooked cutlets on a paper towel–lined plate.


Add the onions to the same pan, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the onions are a deep mahog­any color, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, bell peppers, and garlic, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add a tablespoon of the reserved seasoned flour to the pan and mix well.


Add the tomatoes and beef stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the thyme, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and Worcestershire sauce; return the beef cutlets to the pan. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the meat is fork-tender. Discard the bay leaf. Add hot sauce to taste and more salt and pepper as desired.


To serve, put a heaping spoonful of Cheese Grits on a serving plate, top with 2 or 3 pieces of beef, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Garnish with scallions.

Make the Cheese Grits

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 5 cups of salted water to a boil while slowly whisking in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium low; cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure the grits aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pan; adjust the heat to low if the grits are cooking too quickly.


Remove the cooked grits from the heat and stir in the butter, mascarpone or cream cheese, and grated cheese. Season with salt to taste and serve warm.