Food 2: Jewish

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Monday, December 9, 2013

Potato Salad with Smoked Trout and Horseradish

For the dressing

1/3 cup sour cream

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. lemon juice

2 Tbs. grated fresh or strained jarred horseradish

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

Kosher salt

3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean

1/2 cup shredded hot-smoked trout

1 cup small-diced sweet onion

3/4 cup sliced chives

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Make the salad

Combine the vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes by scraping off the skin. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With yourfingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

When the potatoes have completely cooled, gently fold the smoked trout, sweet onion, and chives into the potatoes. Fold in enough dressing to generously coat the potatoes (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

Matzo Brei with Fresh Chives

Matzo brei is a simple dish of eggs, butter, and matzo (an unleavened cracker-like bread). Although typically served during Passover, it makes a delicious anytime meal. If using salted matzo, halve the amount of salt in the recipe.

4 pieces unsalted matzo (about 4 oz.)

5 large eggs, beaten

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a small saucepan, bring 1-1/4 cups of water to a boil. In a large bowl, crumble the matzo into 1-inch (or smaller) pieces and pour the boiling water over them. Let sit until the matzo softens but doesn’t turn to mush, about 20 seconds. Using a large slotted spoon, press the matzo against the bowl and pour off any excess liquid (there may not be any). Stir in the eggs, chives, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam starts to subside, add the matzo mixture. Use a heatproof spatula to gently scramble and break up the eggs, cooking until they are softly set, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Brisket and Root Vegetable Salad with Creamy Horseradish Dressing

A delicious destination for leftover brisket, this salad is best with meat from the flat end of the brisket, because it holds its shape better than brisket point. Leave the brisket in long slices or cut it into wide strips, and be sure it’s at room temperature so it won’t be too dense.

4 small golden or red beets (about 2-1/2 inches wide)

8 small red potatoes (about 2-1/2 inches wide)

Kosher salt

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 cup drained prepared horseradish

1 Tbs. distilled white vinegar; more as needed

1/2 medium tart apple, peeled, cored, and minced

2 Tbs. minced white onion (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

1 medium bulb fennel, cored and very thinly sliced or shaved with a mandoline or vegetable peeler (about 2-1/2 cups)

1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

16 thin slices leftover brisket, at room temperature

Cut the tails and leaves from the beets but leave about 1 inch of the stems attached. Wash well and put them in a 2-quart saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until tender when pierced with a skewer, 30 to 35 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to cool. When cool enough to handle, slip off the peels. Slice the beets 1/4 inch thick.

While the beets cook, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan with enough water to cover and 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to cool. When cool enough to handle, peel and slice 1/4 inch thick.

In a small bowl, whisk the sour cream, horseradish, and vinegar. Mix in the apple and onion, if using. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and vinegar.

In a medium bowl, toss the fennel and parsley with 2 Tbs. of the horseradish dressing, the olive oil, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a pinch of pepper.

Arrange the brisket, potatoes, and beets on 4 large plates. Sprinkle lightly with salt and drizzle with some of the dressing. Pile the fennel on top and serve the remaining dressing on the side.

Red-Wine-Braised Brisket with Cremini, Carrots, and Thyme

To get a jump start on this recipe, you can season the brisket up to 1 day ahead.

2 Tbs. sweet paprika

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8-1/2 to 9 lb. beef brisket (whole brisket or flat and/or point halves), untrimmed of fat

5 Tbs. vegetable oil

6 large yellow onions, diced (about 12 cups)

3 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 15-oz. can tomato purée

1 cup dry red wine

4 large sprigs fresh thyme

8 large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces

10 oz. cremini or white button mushrooms, quartered if large, halved if small (3 cups)

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1 Tbs. pepper. Rub the mixture all over the brisket. Let rest at room temperature for two hours or cover and refrigerate overnight (bring the meat to room temperature before cooking).

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and pale gold, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the onions to a large heavy-duty roasting pan and spread them in an even layer. Set the brisket fat side up on the onions (it’s okay if the pieces overlap), cover tightly with heavy-duty foil (or a double layer of regular foil), and braise in the oven for 1 hour. As the brisket cooks, it will give off quite a bit of liquid.

Pour the tomato purée and wine around the brisket and add the thyme sprigs. Cover and continue to braise the meat for 2-1/2 hours.

Add the carrots and mushrooms and continue to braise, covered, until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour more.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board and trim the fat. If using a whole brisket or a point half, separate the two layers of meat and trim the fat. With a slotted spoon, move the vegetables to a serving bowl.

Skim the excess fat from the pan juices, strain 2 cups of the juices, and bring to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil until reduced to about 1 cup; the sauce should be rich and flavorful. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Slice as much brisket across the grain as you need for the meal and serve with the vegetables and reduced sauce. Wrap the leftover brisket, vegetables, and juices separately. Leftovers will keep in the fridge for 3 to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Mediterranean-Style Brisket

2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled

1/2 tsp. dried oregano

2 wide strips orange zest

1 cinnamon stick

Pinch crushed red chile flakes

1 4- to 5-lb. beef brisket

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbs. olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onions

1/3 cup finely chopped celery, with leaves

1/3 cup finely chopped carrots

1/4 cup red-wine vinegar

1 14-1/2-oz. can peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their juices, plus enough low-salt chicken or beef broth to total 3 cups

2 cups peeled and diced parsnips (3/4-inch chunks)

2 cups peeled and diced carrots (3/4-inch chunks)

2 cups frozen pearl onions (don't thaw)

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Brown the meat and aromatics:

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Have ready a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. Cut a large single-layer square of cheesecloth, and rinse it to remove any loose fibers. Spread the cheesecloth flat and pile the garlic, oregano, orange zest, cinnamon stick, and chile flakes in the center. Gather the edges to form a pouch and tie tightly with kitchen twine. Set aside. Pat the brisket dry with paper towels, and season with salt and pepper. In the Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Brown the meat thoroughly on all sides, turning with tongs, about 5 minutes per side. The meat should sizzle but not scorch; adjust the heat accordingly. Remove from the heat and transfer the meat to a large plate.

Pour off and discard all but 2 Tbs. of the drippings and return the pot to medium heat. Add the finely chopped onions, celery and carrots, season with a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper, and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes.

Deglaze and braise:

Add the red-wine vinegar, stirring with a wooden spoon to scrape up any remaining browned bits on the bottom of the pot if necessary. Bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until the liquid has reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.

Add the tomatoes, beef or chicken broth, and the cheesecloth pouch to the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer. There should be at least 1 inch of liquid in the pot. Add more broth if needed. Return the meat to the pot, along with any juices that have accumulated. Return the liquid to a simmer, and cover the pot with a sheet of parchment, pushing down so the paper touches the meat. Set the lid in place. (If your pot doesn't have a tight lid, cover the pot tightly with heavy-duty foil, crimping it well over the edges.) Slide the pot into the oven and cook for 2 hours, turning the brisket with tongs after 1 hour.

Turn the brisket over once more and then scatter the diced parsnips, carrots and pearl onions into the liquid around the roast. Continue braising, covered with the parchment and the lid, until the meat is fork-tender, about one hour longer. Test for doneness by spearing the meat toward the center with a carving fork. Pull out the fork carefully: If it lifts and holds the meat, continue cooking for another 20 to 30 minutes.

Make a sauce from the braising liquid:

Transfer the brisket and vegetables to a shallow platter (don't worry if a few chopped vegetables come along too); tent with foil. Strain the remaining liquid into a measuring cup, discarding the finely chopped vegetables and the cheesecloth sachet of flavorings. Let the fat rise to the surface and spoon it off. Wipe out the braising pot with a paper towel.

Return the strained juices to the pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Taste, and if the flavor seems weak, simmer vigorously over medium-high heat to reduce the volume and concentrate the flavor, 5 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley.

Carve the brisket across the grain into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices. Arrange the meat on a serving platter. Ladle about half the sauce over all, garnish with the vegetables, and serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table.

Crimson Beet Falafel

Serve these brilliant red-purple falafel with yogurt sprinkled with black sesame seeds.

4 Tbs. olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 tsp. ground cumin

1/4 tsp. ground allspice

3 medium beets (14 oz.), scrubbed clean

Scant 1 cup milk

Scant 1 cup chickpea flour

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

3 Tbs. cooked chickpeas

2 Tbs. lemon juice

vegetable oil for deep frying

Heat 1 Tbs. of olive oil in a skillet and sauté the onion, cumin and allspice over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside in a bowl.

Cook the beets in plenty of water until three-quarters cooked (roughly 20 minutes). Drain, cool and peel the beets. Grate coarsely on a box grater (you might want to use rubber gloves to do this!).

In a medium nonstick pan, bring the milk to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Little by little, whisk in the chickpea flour until you have a smooth paste. Keep the mixture moving to avoid lumps. Season, then add the remaining olive oil and cook over low heat for 8 minutes, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Like cream puff dough, as the mixture heats, it will come away from the sides of the pan and shape into a ball.

Cool the ball of paste, then mix in the sautéed onions, chickpeas, lemon juice and grated beets. Using your hands, mold the mixture into golf-ball-sized balls and arrange on a baking sheet. Refrigerate for a couple of hours.

In a large saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 350°F. Carefully place the falafel into the oil and cook for 3-4 minutes, until tinged golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain.

Vegetarian Chopped Liver

This rich mushroom-walnut pâté is especially good with pumpernickel or rye bread.

2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter

1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced into half moons

2 fresh thyme sprigs

3/4 lb. cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, cut into medium dice (4-1/2 cups)

1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps cut into medium dice (2 cups)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. dry sherry

1 cup walnuts, toasted

1 small clove garlic, minced

1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste

1/4 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and roughly chopped

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Flaky sea salt, for garnish

Thinly sliced scallion greens or chives, for garnish

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is dark brown, 15 to 20 minutes—it should be darker than golden, but not black. Stir in the cremini and shiitake, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are soft and golden and the liquid they release has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the sherry and cook, scraping up the browned bits from the pan, until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.

Transfer half of the mushroom mixture to a food processor. Add the walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, zest, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Process until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining mushroom mixture and the eggs. Pulse until coarsely chopped. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Serve in a crock or bowl or mounded on a platter, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with flaky sea salt and scallion greens or chives.

Chopped Liver

I put this recipe on my menu at Mother's Bistro when I couldn't find a decent version in Portland. This recipe is excerpted from the cookbook Mother's Best.

1 lb. chicken livers, defrosted if previously frozen

3 Tbs. chicken fat

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

5 hard-cooked eggs, 1 yolk removed and discarded or reserved for another use

Place the livers in a colander set in the sink to drain any excess liquid.

Heat a large (10- to 12-inch) sauté pan over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes, or until very hot. Add 2 Tbs. of the chicken fat. Once it has almost melted, add the onions and sauté until they start to color and soften. Lower the heat to medium and continue to sauté until the onions are lightly caramelized, but not dark brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the onions from the pan (try to leave as much fat in the pan as possible) and set aside.

Place the empty pan over high heat until it is very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. of chicken fat. When it's hot, add the chicken livers. (It's important the fat and the pan are searing hot so the livers sauté rather than steam.) Season with the salt and pepper. Sauté for 4 or 5 minutes, or until the livers are cooked through. They should be brown on the outside and pink in the center. Do not overcook or the chopped liver will be dry.

Transfer the livers to a bowl and allow to cool slightly. Using a food processor, meat grinder, or the grinder attachment of an electric mixer, grind or process half the livers with half the hard-cooked eggs and half the sautéed onions. If using a food processor, pulse the mixture, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl, until it is a coarse purée. (It should be smooth, but not the consistency of baby food.) Scrape the puréed liver mixture into a bowl.

Repeat with the remaining livers, sautéed onions, and hard-cooked eggs. Add to the mixing bowl with the first batch and taste for seasoning. Adjust with additional salt and pepper if desired.

Spoon the chopped liver into a serving bowl or individual ramekins or press it into a greased mold. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a lid (so the surface doesn't get dried out), and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Or freeze in small portions and thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Serve with crackers or thin slices of toasted challah or brioche bread.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. Daniel Leader's grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that he remembers with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since he enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach him how to make it. When he finally got around to coming up with his own babka recipe, he tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Babka is often made with cream cheese, but Daniel likes mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)

2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt

20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 Tbs. instant yeast

5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits

8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

2 Tbs. heavy cream

Tip:

Best-quality European chocolate, such as Callebaut, is essential for this babka.

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Cheese Blintzes with Macerated Strawberries

The light, eggy blintz is as much a part of traditional Jewish cooking as the crêpe is to the French. For this rendition, fresh strawberries steeped in orange juice are served over the cheese-filled crêpes, but you could also top with blueberries or caramelized apple slices.

For the crêpes

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

4 large eggs, beaten

2-1/2 cups whole milk

2 Tbs. melted butter

1/4 tsp. salt

For the macerated strawberries

1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced

1 tsp. fresh orange juice

1 Tbs. sugar

For the farmer cheese filling

1 large egg

1 lb. farmer cheese

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour

1/8 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

For cooking and assembly

2 Tbs. butter, more for the pan

Make the batter

Put the flour, eggs, milk, butter, and salt in a blender and blend on high speed until smooth, pausing once or twice to scrape down the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Macerate the strawberries

In a large bowl, combine the strawberries, orange juice, and sugar, and stir gently to mix. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Make the cheese filling

In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg with a whisk. Add the cheese and whisk to combine. Add the sugar, flour, and lemon zest and whisk to combine.

Cook the crêpes

Heat a crêpe pan with an 8-inch base or a 10-inch nonstick frying pan with an 8-inch base over medium-high heat until it’s hot enough for a drop of water to sizzle. Using a folded paper towel, grease the pan with about 1 tsp. butter. The butter should sizzle upon contact but not instantly turn brown. If it does, reduce the heat as necessary.

Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan while simultaneously lifting the pan from the heat and tilting and turning it in all directions so the batter spreads evenly across the bottom in a thin circle. If the crêpe has any holes in it, quickly add a few drops of batter to fill them in.

Cook until the edges begin to dry and lift from the sides of the pan and the bottom is nicely browned (lift up an edge with a small silicone spatula or butter knife), about 1 minute. Use the spatula and your fingers to flip the crêpe over. Cook until the second side is browned, about 15 seconds more.

Slide the crêpe from the pan onto a large plate or cooling rack. Repeat
with the remaining batter, adjusting the heat and spreading more butter
in the pan every two or three crêpes, or whenever the pan begins to look
a bit dry. You can stack the crêpes on the plate as they’re done; they
won’t stick. The crêpes will soften as they cool. (Your first crêpes may
not turn out perfectly but will still be delicious!)

Assemble the crêpes

Choose the 12 best-looking crêpes (save any remaining for another use). Spoon a heaping Tbs. of the filling into the center of each crêpe. Fold one long edge in over the filling, followed by the two short edges, and finally, the second long edge (like a burrito). Arrange the blintzes seam side down on a large plate or baking sheet. (The blintzes can be prepared several hours ahead up to this point. Keep refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to heat and serve.)

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Arrange half of the blintzes in the pan seam side up in a single layer and cook until light brown on the bottom, 2 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until light brown on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined tray. Repeat with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and blintzes. To serve, arrange two blintzes on each of six plates and top with the strawberries.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish

1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces

4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)

1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)

4
stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
more whole scallions, chopped

Kosher salt

1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)

8 large eggs, preferably organic

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Chocolate Babka

This is the ultimate in yeasted coffee cakes. Eastern European in origin, it's made with a yeasted dough enriched with butter and eggs. The dough is left to rise overnight in the refrigerator. The next morning, it's rolled out, slathered with more butter, and dusted with sugar, chocolate, and nuts. The adorned dough is rolled into a log, cut into spirals, and fitted, free-form, into a tube or Bundt pan. After baking, those spirals give the babka its delicious nooks and crannies filled with melting chocolate and crunchy nuts, which make for an amazing breakfast cake.

For the sponge:

1 package active dry yeast

1 cup whole milk

1 Tbs. honey

1 cup Kamut flour

1/4 cup millet flour

For the dough:

2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for mixing

1 Tbs. kosher salt

3 eggs

8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

To finish the babka:

Butter and sugar for the pan

1 cup pecan halves

8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped into 1/4- and 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 oz. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Make the sponge:

Pour the yeast into the bowl of a standing mixer. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat to a temperature that is warm to the touch, about 100°F, and pour it over the yeast. Stir together with a spoon to combine. Add the honey, Kamut flour, and millet flour and stir again. Add the all-purpose flour to the top of the sticky dough, then the salt. Do not stir. Let the sponge sit for approximately 30 minutes, until the flour begins to crack and the sponge seeps upward.

Make the dough:

While the sponge sits, set the eggs, in their shells, into a bowl of hot water to bring them to room temperature.

After 30 minutes, crack the eggs and add them to the sponge. Put the bowl onto the mixer with the hook attachment and mix on low until the flour is incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Watch the dough to see if it’s sticking to the sides. If it is, add additional allpurpose flour, 1 Tbs. at a time—it may take as much as 1/2 cup until the dough is pulling away from the sides of the bowl. Once the dough has formed a cohesive mass and is pulling away from the sides, turn the mixer to medium and set a 5-minute timer. The dough will be moister than many bread doughs and will mostly cohere around the hook, occasionally letting off a tail of dough. Listen for the slapping noises as the dough goes around and around, releasing and incorporating the tail of dough. Halfway through the mixing time, stop the mixer and scrape the dough thoroughly from the hook. Mix the dough for 5 minutes more, making sure to set a timer.

After 10 minutes the dough should be a supple, elastic mass. Add the butter 1 Tbs. at a time and mix on medium speed, waiting to add the next piece until the first one is fully incorporated. The dough will come apart and back together again as the butter is incorporated into the dough. Once all the butter is added, the dough should be shiny and soft.

For the first rise, scrape the dough into a buttered bowl, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and leave to rise for 2 hours, or until doubled in size. The dough is ready when a floured finger stuck into it leaves an impression. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently fold the dough into itself and gather it back into a ball. Cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Finish the babka:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Rub a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan with butter, then lightly dust it with sugar. Toast the pecans in the pan until golden, about 15 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt.

Dust a work surface with flour. Remove the challah dough from the refrigerator, flour the top, and scrape the dough onto the work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour and roll into a rectangle about 10 inches by 16 inches.

Rub the softened butter evenly over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle the sugar mix over the butter, then break up the pecans a bit and sprinkle them on top of the sugar. Sprinkle the chocolate last. Starting at the 16-inch length, roll the dough into a tight log. Cut the log into 13 pieces, each about 1-1/4 inches thick.

Place the pieces in the pan in a haphazard way, so that as the dough proofs the odd-shaped spaces are filled in. Here is one way: Create the bottom layer by laying 4 circles at the bottom of the pan with the spirals facing up. Set a circle upright in between each of those circles. For the top layer, set 3 circles in areas that will create empty pockets. Slice the last 2 circles in half and fit them into the gaps that remain. Cover the pan with a towel and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. The babka should be a beautiful golden-brown on top and have risen to the top or slightly over the top of the pan. Let it cool slightly, about 15 minutes, before placing a rack on top of the pan and turning the pan upside down to get the babka out of its pan and onto the rack to cool.

Chocolate Babka

For the sponge:

1 package active dry yeast

1 cup whole milk

1 Tbs. honey

1 cup Kamut flour

1/4 cup millet flour

For the dough:

2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for mixing

1 Tbs. kosher salt

3 eggs

8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

To finish the babka:

Butter and sugar for the pan

1 cup pecan halves

8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped into 1/4- and 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 oz. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Make the sponge:

Make the dough:

While the sponge sits, set the eggs, in their shells, into a bowl of hot water to bring them to room temperature.

Finish the babka:

Vegetarian Chopped Liver

This rich mushroom-walnut pâté is especially good with pumpernickel or rye bread.

2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter

1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced into half moons

2 fresh thyme sprigs

3/4 lb. cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, cut into medium dice (4-1/2 cups)

1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps cut into medium dice (2 cups)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. dry sherry

1 cup walnuts, toasted

1 small clove garlic, minced

1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste

1/4 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and roughly chopped

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Flaky sea salt, for garnish

Thinly sliced scallion greens or chives, for garnish

Cheese Blintzes with Macerated Strawberries

For the crêpes

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

4 large eggs, beaten

2-1/2 cups whole milk

2 Tbs. melted butter

1/4 tsp. salt

For the macerated strawberries

1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced

1 tsp. fresh orange juice

1 Tbs. sugar

For the farmer cheese filling

1 large egg

1 lb. farmer cheese

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour

1/8 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

For cooking and assembly

2 Tbs. butter, more for the pan

Make the batter

Macerate the strawberries

In a large bowl, combine the strawberries, orange juice, and sugar, and stir gently to mix. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Make the cheese filling

In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg with a whisk. Add the cheese and whisk to combine. Add the sugar, flour, and lemon zest and whisk to combine.

Cook the crêpes

Assemble the crêpes

Boiceville Bialys

I spend a lot of time in New York City, selling bread at the Union Square Greenmarket®. Whenever I can, I make the trip a little farther downtown to the Lower East Side. First, I’ll stop at the Doughnut Plant at 379 Grand Street for one of the incredible yeasted doughnuts, and then I’ll move a few doors down, to 367, where Kossar’s Bialys has been producing superior bialys, bagels, bulkas, pletzels, and other kosher bread specialties for more than 65 years.
I enjoy watching Kossar’s bakers expertly pull each tagelach (the Yiddish word for “dough ball”) into the characteristic shape before filling all their indented centers with fresh onions and poppy seeds. Our production schedule at Bread Alone has never allowed me to make bialys, but this hasn’t stopped me from making them at home, attempting every time to achieve the same lightness and flavor that they achieve at Kossar’s. My recipe is pretty faithful to the original. The bialys come out light and bubbly, with a thin but wonderfully crisp crust. When you make them, don’t forget to prick the indented centers with a fork. If you don’t, they will bubble up.
If you want to serve these for breakfast, you can make the dough the night before, let it rise, and then refrigerate the shaped dough balls. While the oven heats the next morning, make the filling and make the wells in the balls. Bake and serve warm, with smoked salmon.

For the filling

2 tsp. olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

1 Tbs. poppy seeds

1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt

Ground black pepper, to taste

For the dough

1-1⁄2 cups room temperature water (70°F to 78°F)

1 package (2-1⁄4 tsp.) instant yeast

17.63 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

1-1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt

Make the filling

Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, poppy seeds, salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent but hasn’t yet started to color, 5 to 7 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

Make the dough

Pour the water into the bowl of a standing mixer. Add the yeast, flour, and salt and stir with a rubber spatula just until all the water is absorbed and a rough dough forms. Attach the dough hook and knead the dough on medium speed until it is springy and smooth, 5 to 6 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

Line a baker’s peel or a rimless baking sheet with parchment paper. Set another piece of parchment paper on the counter.

Turn the dough out onto the parchment paper on the counter and use a bench scraper or sharp chef’s knife to divide it into 10 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a tight round.

Transfer half of the rounds, seam sides down, to the lined peel or baking sheet, leaving at least 2 inches between each one. Transfer the other half to the other piece of parchment paper. Lightly dust with flour, drape with plastic wrap, and let stand until increased in size about 1-1⁄2 times, about 1-1⁄2 hours.

One hour before baking, place a baking stone on the middle rack of the oven. Heat the oven to 450°F.

Press both thumbs into the center of each bialy, creating a shallow well. Don’t make the center too thin—think about making a mini pizza. Pierce the wells with the tines of a fork to prevent them from bubbling up in the oven. When all of the bialys are shaped, fill each one with a heaping teaspoon of the filling.

Slide the first batch of bialys, the ones on the peel or baking sheet, onto the baking stone. Bake until golden brown, 7 to 9 minutes.

Slide the peel or the rimless baking sheet under the parchment paper to remove the bialys from the oven. Cool for about 5 minutes on a wire rack, and then peel them off the parchment paper. Repeat with the second batch of bialys, sliding them, still on the parchment, onto the peel or baking sheet, and then sliding them, still on the parchment, onto the baking stone. Bialys are best eaten on the day they are baked. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for 15 to 30 minutes, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Goat Cheese Blintzes

For the crepes:

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup regular or low-fat goat milk (or cow milk, if you must)

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp. salt

Goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must), for greasing the skillet

For the filling:

8 ounces fresh chevre or soft goat cheese

1 large egg yolk

2 Tbs. granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

4 Tbs. goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must)

Make the crepes:

Whir the two eggs and the milk in a blender (preferably) or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade until creamy. Add the flour and salt; blend or process until smooth.

Lightly grease an 8-inch nonstick skillet with a little butter on some wadded up paper towel. Set the skillet over medium heat, let it warm up a bit, then pour in 2 Tbs. of the flour batter. Swirl and shake the skillet so that the batter evenly covers its bottom. Cook until set, about 30 seconds. Flip the crepe, then cook for another 30 seconds or so, just until firm. Transfer the crepe from the skillet to a plate or cutting board; cover with a clean kitchen towel. Butter the skillet again, add 2 more Tbs. of batter, and keep going, repeating ad nauseam, until you have 16 crepes.

Fill and cook the blintzes

For the filling, stir the fresh chèvre or soft goat cheese, egg yolk, sugar, and vanilla in a big bowl until creamy. Set one of the crepes on your work surface, mound 2 tsp. of this cheese mixture in the middle of the crepe, flatten the filling a little, fold the two sides of the crepe to your left and right over the filling, fold up the bottom, the part nearest you. Now roll the crepe away from you so that it folds up into a little packet. Set aside under a clean kitchen towel and continue filling all the crepes.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the butter and about half the blintzes. Fry them on both sides until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes in all, turning once. Transfer these to a serving platter, add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter to the skillet, and fry the rest of them.

Whole Wheat Challah with Apricots

As an organic baker specializing in whole grain breads, I often wondered what challah would taste like if made with stone-ground whole wheat flour. This may sound outlandish, considering that challah is the whitest of white breads. But it makes sense if you remember that observant Jews baked and ate this bread hundreds of years ago, before millers began to sift the bran from flour, and all flour was whole wheat. So I went ahead and developed this recipe. Since I was already bucking the norm, I decided to add some chopped apricots to temper the bite of the whole wheat.
Instead of braiding the dough, you may divide it and bake it in two greased 9 by 5-inch loaf pans or shape it into a round and bake it on a baking stone. Loaf pan challah is wonderful sliced and battered to make French toast.

8.47 oz. (2 cups) whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground

7.23 oz. (1-3⁄4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

2-1⁄4 tsp. instant yeast

1-1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt

3⁄4 cup room temperature water (70°F to 78°F)

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1⁄2 cup olive oil

1⁄4 cup honey

1⁄4 cup finely chopped dried apricots

Combine the whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, yeast, sea salt, water, 2 of the eggs, olive oil, and honey in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook. Give the mixture a few turns with a rubber spatula to moisten all of the ingredients, and then knead on medium-high speed until your dough is smooth, 4 to 6 minutes. It will cling to the hook and clear the sides of the bowl. Add the apricots and knead until they’re just incorporated, another minute or two.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, 1-1⁄2 to 2 hours.

Gently press on the dough while it’s still in the bowl to deflate it, and then turn it onto a lightly floured countertop. Divide it into 3 equal portions and, with the palms of your hands, roll each portion into a 15-inch-long rope, just the way you used to roll clay into ropes when you were a kid.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the 3 dough ropes side by side on the sheet. Pinch the ropes together at one end, tucking them under the loaf. Braid the ropes together, right over center and then left over center, as tightly as you can, until the ropes are too short to braid. Pinch the ends of the braid together and tuck them under the loaf as you did with the other end.

Dust the loaf lightly with flour, drape with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until almost doubled in volume, 1 to 2 hours (alternatively, refrigerate the covered loaf overnight and bring it to room temperature before letting it rise completely).

Heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the remaining egg and brush it all over the top of the loaf. Bake the challah until the top is deep golden brown and the bottom makes a hollow sound when tapped, about 40 minutes. Transfer the bread to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing and serving. Whole Wheat Challah with Apricots will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for an hour or two, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Breakfast Casserole

1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish

1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces

4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)

1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)

4
stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
more whole scallions, chopped

Kosher salt

1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)

8 large eggs, preferably organic

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper