Potato Salad with Smoked Trout and Horseradish

For the dressing

• 
  
  1/3 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. grated fresh or strained jarred horseradish
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the salad

• 
  
  1/4 cup plain rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup shredded hot-smoked trout
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup small-diced sweet onion
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup sliced chives
  
  

Make the dressing

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Make the salad

Combine the vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes by scraping off the skin. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With yourfingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

When the potatoes have completely cooled, gently fold the smoked trout, sweet onion, and chives into the potatoes. Fold in enough dressing to generously coat the potatoes (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

Roasted Parsnips with Cinnamon & Coriander

The cooking method and the spices play up parsnips’ sweetness, counterbalanced by last-minute additions of lemon juice and chopped fresh cilantro, which add brightness. If cilantro isn’t to your liking, use parsley.

• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. parsnips (about 10 medium)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. sweet paprika (or a mix of mostly sweet and some hot)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Peel the parsnips and cut each into 1-inch pieces crosswise, then cut the thicker pieces into halves or quarters to get chunks of roughly equal size. (Don’t try to match the skinny tail-end pieces.) If the core seems tough or pithy, cut it out. You’ll have about 4 cups.

Arrange the parsnips in a single layer in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Drizzle with the olive oil and toss to coat evenly. Combine the cumin, coriander, paprika, salt, and cinnamon in a small bowl and stir to mix. Sprinkle the spices evenly over the parsnips and toss until the parsnips are well coated.

Roast until completely tender and lightly browned on the edges, 35 to 45 min., stirring once or twice during cooking. Sprinkle with the cilantro and lemon juice and toss well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary before serving.

Matzo Brei with Fresh Chives

Matzo brei is a simple dish of eggs, butter, and matzo (an unleavened cracker-like bread). Although typically served during Passover, it makes a delicious anytime meal. If using salted matzo, halve the amount of salt in the recipe.

• 
  
  4 pieces unsalted matzo (about 4 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  5 large eggs, beaten
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  

In a small saucepan, bring 1-1/4 cups of water to a boil. In a large bowl, crumble the matzo into 1-inch (or smaller) pieces and pour the boiling water over them. Let sit until the matzo softens but doesn’t turn to mush, about 20 seconds. Using a large slotted spoon, press the matzo against the bowl and pour off any excess liquid (there may not be any). Stir in the eggs, chives, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.


Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam starts to subside, add the matzo mixture. Use a heatproof spatula to gently scramble and break up the eggs, cooking until they are softly set, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Quick-Braised Baby Artichokes with Garlic, Mint, and Parsley

This classic Roman dish includes two of the artichoke’s best friends: fresh herbs and lemon juice. Its simplicity requires the freshest artichokes you can find.

• 
  
  16 baby artichokes, trimmed and halved or 12 large artichokes, trimmed to the heart and quartered 
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium cloves garlic, minced (1-1/2 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
  
  

Drain the artichokes and blot dry with a dishtowel. In a 12-inch skillet, heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add half of the artichokes cut side down, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook until golden-brown, 3 to 4 minutes. As each one browns, flip it and brown the outside, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the second batch of artichokes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the reserved cooked artichokes to the ones in the skillet, along with the garlic. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 1/2 cup of water and the lemon juice; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until just tender, about 20 minutes. Uncover the pan, stir in the parsley and mint, raise the heat to medium, and simmer until any remaining liquid is mostly evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Brisket and Root Vegetable Salad with Creamy Horseradish Dressing

A delicious destination for leftover brisket, this salad is best with meat from the flat end of the brisket, because it holds its shape better than brisket point. Leave the brisket in long slices or cut it into wide strips, and be sure it’s at room temperature so it won’t be too dense.

• 
  
  4 small golden or red beets (about 2-1/2 inches wide)
  
  


• 
  
  8 small red potatoes (about 2-1/2 inches wide)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup drained prepared horseradish
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. distilled white vinegar; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium tart apple, peeled, cored, and minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced white onion (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium bulb fennel, cored and very thinly sliced or shaved with a mandoline or vegetable peeler (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  16 thin slices leftover brisket, at room temperature
  
  

Cut the tails and leaves from the beets but leave about 1 inch of the stems attached. Wash well and put them in a 2-quart saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until tender when pierced with a skewer, 30 to 35 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to cool. When cool enough to handle, slip off the peels. Slice the beets 1/4 inch thick.

While the beets cook, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan with enough water to cover and 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to cool. When cool enough to handle, peel and slice 1/4 inch thick.

In a small bowl, whisk the sour cream, horseradish, and vinegar. Mix in the apple and onion, if using. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and vinegar.

In a medium bowl, toss the fennel and parsley with 2 Tbs. of the horseradish dressing, the olive oil, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a pinch of pepper.

Arrange the brisket, potatoes, and beets on 4 large plates. Sprinkle lightly with salt and drizzle with some of the dressing. Pile the fennel on top and serve the remaining dressing on the side.

Red-Wine-Braised Brisket with Cremini, Carrots, and Thyme

To get a jump start on this recipe, you can season the brisket up to 1 day ahead.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  8-1/2 to 9 lb. beef brisket (whole brisket or flat and/or point halves), untrimmed of fat
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 large yellow onions, diced (about 12 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can tomato purée
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine
  
  


• 
  
  4 large sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  8 large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. cremini or white button mushrooms, quartered if large, halved if small (3 cups)
  
  

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1 Tbs. pepper. Rub the mixture all over the brisket. Let rest at room temperature for two hours or cover and refrigerate overnight (bring the meat to room temperature before cooking).

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and pale gold, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the onions to a large heavy-duty roasting pan and spread them in an even layer. Set the brisket fat side up on the onions (it’s okay if the pieces overlap), cover tightly with heavy-duty foil (or a double layer of regular foil), and braise in the oven for 1 hour. As the brisket cooks, it will give off quite a bit of liquid.

Pour the tomato purée and wine around the brisket and add the thyme sprigs. Cover and continue to braise the meat for 2-1/2 hours.

Add the carrots and mushrooms and continue to braise, covered, until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour more.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board and trim the fat. If using a whole brisket or a point half, separate the two layers of meat and trim the fat. With a slotted spoon, move the vegetables to a serving bowl.

Skim the excess fat from the pan juices, strain 2 cups of the juices, and bring to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil until reduced to about 1 cup; the sauce should be rich and flavorful. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Slice as much brisket across the grain as you need for the meal and serve with the vegetables and reduced sauce. Wrap the leftover brisket, vegetables, and juices separately. Leftovers will keep in the fridge for 3 to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Lamb Stew with Parsnips, Prunes, and Chickpeas

North African in spirit, this hearty sweet and savory stew is perfect for the season. Serve it with couscous or good crusty bread.

For the Lamb

• 
  
  3 lb. boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium carrots, cut into 3-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, peeled and stuck with 1 whole clove
  
  


• 
  
  1 three-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  

For the stew

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter or olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. paprika
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seed, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seed, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups cooked chickpeas, rinsed if canned
  
  


• 
  
  18 pitted prunes, halved
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup tomato purée
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. medium parsnips, peeled, cored, and cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Prepare the lamb

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Season the lamb with 2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. In a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven, combine the lamb, carrots, onion, cinnamon, bay leaf, and enough water to cover. Cover and braise in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2-1/2 hours. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve over a large bowl. Discard the vegetables and spices. (The recipe may be prepared to this point up to 2 days ahead. Cool the lamb and broth, and refrigerate separately. Skim the fat from the broth before continuing.)

Make the stew

In a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven, heat the butter or oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, paprika, cumin, coriander, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant (don’t let the garlic burn), 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in the chickpeas, prunes, tomato purée, and a pinch of salt. Add the reserved lamb and 4 cups of the broth and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes and then turn the heat to low. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the parsnips and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve sprinkled with cilantro or parsley.

Tunisian Braised Short Ribs

Dried figs and a Mediterranean spice blend give these short ribs a North African twist. Serve them over a fluffy herbed couscous pile. Or customize your own braised short rib recipe with the Recipe Maker.

• 
  
  4-1/2 to 5 lb. English-style beef short ribs (8 to 12 ribs)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup medium-diced carrots
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup medium-diced onions
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarsely chopped dried figs
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 whole star anise
  
  


• 
  
  2 whole cinnamon sticks
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup lower-sodium soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 to 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh mint
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. In an 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Season the ribs with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Add half of the ribs to the pot (or as many as will fit without overlap), and cook, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the ribs to a platter and repeat with the remaining ribs. Pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the pan.


Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, carrots and onions to the pan. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the aromatics are soft and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Addthe chopped dried figs, ginger, garlic, star anise, and cinnamon sticks, and cook, stirring, until well distributed and fragrant, about 1 minute.


Pour 1/2 cup of the red wine into the pot and cook, stirring to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.


Transfer all the ribs (and any juices that have accumulated) back into the pot. Pour the tomatoes, chicken broth, soy sauce, remaining 1/2 cup of red wine, and 1 cup water over the ribs and using tongs, arrange the ribs as evenly as possible and no more than two layers deep.


Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and put the pot in the oven. Cook, turning the ribs with tongs about every 40 minutes, until they are fork tender, about 2-3/4 hours. (The meat may fall off most of the bones about midway through cooking; this does not mean that the ribs are fully tender.)


Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Serve the ribs with the sauce spooned over, sprinkled with chopped parsley and chopped mint.

Mediterranean-Style Brisket

• 
  
  2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  2 wide strips orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  1 cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch crushed red chile flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1 4- to 5-lb. beef brisket
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely chopped onions
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup finely chopped celery, with leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup finely chopped carrots
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 14-1/2-oz. can peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their juices, plus enough low-salt chicken or beef broth to total 3 cups
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups peeled and diced parsnips (3/4-inch chunks)
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups peeled and diced carrots (3/4-inch chunks)
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups frozen pearl onions (don't thaw)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Brown the meat and aromatics:

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Have ready a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. Cut a large single-layer square of cheesecloth, and rinse it to remove any loose fibers. Spread the cheesecloth flat and pile the garlic, oregano, orange zest, cinnamon stick, and chile flakes in the center. Gather the edges to form a pouch and tie tightly with kitchen twine. Set aside. Pat the brisket dry with paper towels, and season with salt and pepper. In the Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Brown the meat thoroughly on all sides, turning with tongs, about 5 minutes per side. The meat should sizzle but not scorch; adjust the heat accordingly. Remove from the heat and transfer the meat to a large plate.

Pour off and discard all but 2 Tbs. of the drippings and return the pot to medium heat. Add the finely chopped onions, celery and carrots, season with a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper, and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes.

Deglaze and braise:

Add the red-wine vinegar, stirring with a wooden spoon to scrape up any remaining browned bits on the bottom of the pot if necessary. Bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until the liquid has reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.

Add the tomatoes, beef or chicken broth, and the cheesecloth pouch to the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer. There should be at least 1 inch of liquid in the pot. Add more broth if needed. Return the meat to the pot, along with any juices that have accumulated. Return the liquid to a simmer, and cover the pot with a sheet of parchment, pushing down so the paper touches the meat. Set the lid in place. (If your pot doesn't have a tight lid, cover the pot tightly with heavy-duty foil, crimping it well over the edges.) Slide the pot into the oven and cook for 2 hours, turning the brisket with tongs after 1 hour.

Turn the brisket over once more and then scatter the diced parsnips, carrots and pearl onions into the liquid around the roast. Continue braising, covered with the parchment and the lid, until the meat is fork-tender, about one hour longer. Test for doneness by spearing the meat toward the center with a carving fork. Pull out the fork carefully: If it lifts and holds the meat, continue cooking for another 20 to 30 minutes.

Make a sauce from the braising liquid:

Transfer the brisket and vegetables to a shallow platter (don't worry if a few chopped vegetables come along too); tent with foil. Strain the remaining liquid into a measuring cup, discarding the finely chopped vegetables and the cheesecloth sachet of flavorings. Let the fat rise to the surface and spoon it off. Wipe out the braising pot with a paper towel.

Return the strained juices to the pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Taste, and if the flavor seems weak, simmer vigorously over medium-high heat to reduce the volume and concentrate the flavor, 5 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley.

Carve the brisket across the grain into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices. Arrange the meat on a serving platter. Ladle about half the sauce over all, garnish with the vegetables, and serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table.

Pot-Roasted Chicken with Spring Vegetables

Though this dish is easy to make, you shouldn’t think twice about serving it for company. It’s full of flavor and looks elegant presented in shallow bowls.

• 
  
  10 oz. cipollini (about 12) or other small onions
  
  


• 
  
  1 whole chicken (about 3-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. baby carrots with tops (about 12), peeled and stems trimmed to about 1/2 inch
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. small cremini mushrooms, cleaned, stems trimmed flush with caps
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 sprigs fresh thyme, tied together with kitchen string
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or whole small chervil leaves
  
  

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Bring 1 quart of water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan. Add the onions and cook for 1 minute. Drain in a colander, then rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Peel the onions, leaving enough of the root end intact that they will remain whole during cooking.

Remove the giblets from the chicken and discard or save for another use. Pat the chicken dry and trim away any excess fat. Cut off the first two joints of the wings and reserve them. Season the inside of the chicken with salt and pepper. Truss the chicken. Season the outside of the chicken with salt and pepper.

Heat a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over high heat. Add the olive oil and heat until shimmering hot. Add the chicken, breast side down. Lower the heat to medium high and cook, undisturbed, until nicely browned. Turn the chicken with tongs, being careful not to tear the skin, and brown on the remaining sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.

Return the pot to medium-high heat. Add the carrots, mushrooms, cipollini, and reserved wings. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables and wings to the rimmed baking sheet with the chicken. Discard the oil from the pot, add the wine, raise the heat to high, and cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken broth and thyme and return the chicken to the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and braise in the oven for 20 minutes. Take the pot out of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 500°F.

Add the vegetables and wing tips to the pot, return it to the oven (do not cover), and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the breast registers 165°F, about 15 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Transfer the vegetables to a baking dish, cover, and keep warm. Discard the wing tips and thyme.

Pour the braising liquid into a glass measuring cup or fat separator and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Discard the fat and pour the liquid into a 2-quart saucepan. Boil over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1-1/2 cups, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the chicken into breast and leg pieces. Divide the chicken and vegetables among four shallow bowls and pour some of the sauce over all. Sprinkle with the parsley or chervil and serve.

Hazelnut-Almond Dacquoise

Most of the offerings at Flour Bakery + Cafe are decidedly American: chocolate chip cookies, banana bread, puddings, and muffins. But when I wrote the opening menu, I knew I wanted to include this very French cake. I really like how dramatic it looks and how well all of the flavors and textures go together. Dacquoise refers to both the baked meringue layers within the cake and the composed cake itself. First, you make a light meringue and quickly and gently fold in hazelnut and almond flour. Then you pipe three long rectangles of the meringue onto a baking sheet and bake them in a slow oven overnight, so they dry out and get crispy. A creamy espresso buttercream that tastes like soft coffee ice cream and a chocolate ganache filling are sandwiched between the layers. The cake is not difficult to make, but all of its components make it important to read the recipe from start to finish so you can organize your prep schedule. Each component can be made in advance, which makes the final assembly of the cake easier.

• 
  
  1/2 cup blanched whole hazelnuts, plus 3/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup blanched whole almonds, plus 1/4 cup blanched whole hazelnuts, toasted
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/3 cups confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  6 egg whites
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup granulated sugar
  
  

For the bittersweet chocolate ganache

• 
  
  1 lb.semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  

For the espresso buttercream

• 
  
  3/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  2 eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1 egg yolk
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. instant espresso powder, 2 Tbs. instant coffee powder, or 1/4 cup cooled brewed espresso
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 225°F. Line an 18-by-13-inch baking sheet (if you don’t have a sheet that large, line 2 smaller sheets) with parchment paper. Draw three 10-by-3-inch rectangles at least 3 inches apart on one side of the parchment paper, then turn the parchment over and liberally coat the other side of the paper with nonstick cooking spray or butter.

In a food processor, pulse the 1/2 cup hazelnuts until ground to a fine powder. (Stop grinding once they are powdery; if you continue, they will become a paste.) Transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat with the 1/2 cup almonds, and add the ground almonds to the hazelnuts. Sift the confectioners’ sugar into the bowl holding the ground nuts. Add the salt and stir with a rubber spatula until all of the ingredients are well mixed.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they hold soft peaks. (This will take 6 to 7 minutes with a handheld mixer.) The whites will start to froth and turn into bubbles, and eventually the yellowy viscous part will disappear. Keep whipping until you can see the tines of your whip leaving a slight trail in the whites. To test for the soft-peak stage, stop the mixer and lift the whip out of the whites; the whites should peak and then droop.

On medium speed, add the granulated sugar in three equal additions, mixing for 30 seconds after each addition. When all of the granulated sugar has been incorporated, increase the speed to high and beat for about 15 seconds longer. The meringue should be slightly glossy and white and somewhat stiff. Scrape the meringue into a large bowl.

Sprinkle the nut-sugar mixture on top of the meringue. Working quickly and gently, use a rubber spatula to fold the nuts into the meringue, scraping the sides of the bowl to catch any loose nuts. The final consistency will be soupy, gloupy, and puddingy.

Fit a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch round plain tip and fill the bag with the meringue. Following the guidelines you drew on the underside of the parchment paper, pipe 3 rectangles of meringue, “fill in” the rectangles to form your individual layers. Space the rectangles about 3 inches apart (they will expand in the oven).

Bake for about 3 hours, or until the dacquoise rectangles are firm to the touch. Turn off the oven and leave the rectangles in the closed oven for at least 6 hours or for up to 12 hours.

To make the chocolate ganache

Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, scald the cream over medium-high heat (bubbles start to form around the edge of the pan, but the cream is not boiling). Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for about 1 minute, then slowly whisk the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. You should have about 4 cups. Let cool, cover, and store at room temperature for up to overnight. (The ganache can be made up to 1 week in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Remove it from the refrigerator 1 day before using.)

To make the buttercream

In a small saucepan, stir together the granulated sugar and water. Place the pan over high heat, bring to a boil, and cook, without stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the syrup registers 238°F on a candy thermometer (the soft-ball stage). Meanwhile, fit the stand mixer with the whip attachment (or use a handheld mixer) and beat together the eggs and egg yolk on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until pale and light.

When the syrup is ready, remove from the heat. On low speed, slowly add the syrup into the eggs, drizzling it down the side of the bowl to keep it from hitting the whip and spattering. Turn the speed up to medium and whip for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture turns light and fluffy, is pale, and is cool to the touch. Turn the speed down to low and add the butter, a few chunks as a time. Increase the speed to medium and continue to whip for 4 to 5 minutes. The mixture will break and look curdled at first, but don’t worry. It will soon become smooth and silky.

Add the espresso powder and salt and whip until completely combined. You should have about 3 cups. Use within 30 minutes, or cover and leave at room temperature for up to 8 hours, and then beat vigorously with a wood spoon until smooth before using. (Or, transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, then bring to room temperature and beat with the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for a few minutes until smooth before using.)

To assemble the cake

When the dacquoise rectangles are ready, carefully peel them from the parchment paper. Using a small paring knife or a small, serrated knife, trim the edges so they are even and the rectangles are all about the same size. The rectangles are fairly delicate at this point, and if you are not careful, they could shatter. The best way to avoid this is to shave off a little piece at a time until the rectangles are roughly uniform. If a rectangle shatters as you are trimming it, don’t fret. That rectangle can be the middle layer. If 2 or all 3 rectangles shatter, again don’t fret. You can piece them together as you assemble the cake. The cake will not be quite as neat, but the final product will taste the same.

Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the dacquoise rectangles and place one rectangle on the cardboard. Fit a pastry bag fitted with the 1/2-inch round plain tip and fill with about half of the ganache. Pipe a layer of ganache about 1/2 inch thick on top of the dacquoise. Gently press a second dacquoise rectangle directly on top of the ganache layer and press lightly to adhere the dacquoise to the ganache. Fill the pastry bag with about two-thirds of the espresso buttercream and pipe a layer of buttercream about 1/2 inch thick on top of the second dacquoise layer.

Top the buttercream with the last dacquoise rectangle, placing it upside down so the flat side is on top. Press lightly to adhere this last rectangle to the buttercream. Use a small offset spatula to spread the remaining buttercream into the gaps between the layers and to spread a very thin layer all over the dacquoise. Do your best to make the exterior of the cake as smooth as you can—you will need to use a fair amount of buttercream to fill in all the gaps.

Place the cake in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to chill all of the layers. (At this point, the cake can be well wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. If frozen, thaw overnight in the refrigerator before serving.)

When ready to serve, spoon the remaining ganache into a small heatproof bowl, place over (not touching) simmering water in a saucepan, and heat just until melted. (Or, place in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on low power for 30 to 45 seconds, or just until melted and warmed enough to pour freely—not warmer than that). Place a wire rack on a baking sheet (to catch the drips), and place the cake on the rack. Pour the melted ganache evenly over the entire dacquoise, so it covers the top and drips down the sides. Use a small offset spatula to level off the ganache on the top of the cake. Then, with the spatula, spread the ganache that drips down the sides so that it covers the sides evenly. Some of the ganache may mix into the buttercream, which is okay, because the sides will be covered with sliced almonds. Now, press the sliced almonds into the sides of the cake, covering them completely. (It helps to tilt the cake with one hand and press the almonds with your other hand.) Place the cake on a cake plate, and press the whole hazelnuts along the top edge for decoration.

The cake can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Lamb Stew with Parsnips, Prunes, and Chickpeas

North African in spirit, this hearty sweet and savory stew is perfect for the season. Serve it with couscous or good crusty bread.

For the Lamb

• 
  
  3 lb. boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium carrots, cut into 3-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, peeled and stuck with 1 whole clove
  
  


• 
  
  1 three-inch cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  

For the stew

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter or olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. paprika
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cumin seed, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. coriander seed, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups cooked chickpeas, rinsed if canned
  
  


• 
  
  18 pitted prunes, halved
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup tomato purée
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. medium parsnips, peeled, cored, and cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Prepare the lamb

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Season the lamb with 2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. In a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven, combine the lamb, carrots, onion, cinnamon, bay leaf, and enough water to cover. Cover and braise in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2-1/2 hours. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve over a large bowl. Discard the vegetables and spices. (The recipe may be prepared to this point up to 2 days ahead. Cool the lamb and broth, and refrigerate separately. Skim the fat from the broth before continuing.)

Make the stew

In a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven, heat the butter or oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, paprika, cumin, coriander, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant (don’t let the garlic burn), 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in the chickpeas, prunes, tomato purée, and a pinch of salt. Add the reserved lamb and 4 cups of the broth and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes and then turn the heat to low. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the parsnips and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve sprinkled with cilantro or parsley.

Matzo-Stuffed Cornish Game Hens

For some reason, you never see Cornish hens in restaurants anymore. Too bad, because this recipe, stuffing the birds with matzo and chicken livers and serving them with chicken jus (a brown chicken stock reduced to a glaze consistency), is a winner.

For the roasted chicken jus

• 
  
  2 lb. uncooked chicken bones
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 celery ribs, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 carrot, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 garlic cloves
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  12 black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine (such as Cabernet Sauvignon—an inexpensive one is fine)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  

For the stuffing

• 
  
  1 cup chicken livers (about 7 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 garlic cloves, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh sage
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 matzo crackers (full sheets), crushed into pieces
  
  

For the hens

• 
  
  4 Cornish game hens
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter (1/2 stick), cut into small pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher or fine sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 carrots, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  
  

Tip:

To make this dish for a kosher meat meal, dot the
hens with margarine instead of butter, or brush them with canola or
olive oil.

Make the jus

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the bones in a roasting pan and drizzle with the oil. Roast, stirring several times so they cook evenly, until the bones turn light golden-brown—30 to 40 minutes total. Leaving the oven on, transfer the bones to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and wipe the pan dry. Return the roasted bones to the pan; add the celery, onions, carrots, garlic, thyme, and peppercorns. Pour in the wine and stir in the tomato paste and salt. If appropriate, add water to cover. Return the pan to the oven and cook for 4 hours, adding water as necessary to keep the bones covered.

Pour the liquid from the pan through a mesh strainer into a small saucepan; discard the bones. Bring the liquid to boiling over medium heat and boil gently until it is reduced to 2-1/2 cups, skimming off any impurities. Transfer the jus to a storage container.

Make the stuffing

To clean the livers, use the tip of a sharp paring knife to remove the sinew that runs into the meat and trim off any yellow spots or unevenly colored areas. Rinse the livers under cold running water and pat them dry thoroughly with paper towels. Coarsely chop the livers into 1/2-inch pieces. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, and garlic, cook for 2 minutes; lower the heat to medium-low and continue to cook until the vegetables are translucent and begin to soften—6 to 8 minutes. Add the livers, sage, salt, and pepper; sauté until the livers are cooked—about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Place the crushed matzos in a medium bowl; add the liver mixture and mix well with a wooden spoon. Taste the stuffing and add more salt or pepper if you wish

Stuff and roast the hens

Trim any excess fat from the hens; wash them under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside.

Mix the carrots, celery, and onions in the bottom of a roasting pan large enough to hold all 4 hens.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Loosely fill the cavity of each hen with stuffing. Drizzle 1-1/2 tsp. oil over each hen and rub into skin. Sprinkle each hen with salt and pepper. Truss the hens with twine (tie the legs together, tuck the wings under the backs). Place the hens, breast up, in the roasting pan, on the bed of chopped vegetables. Dot each with the butter, dividing equally. (If there is extra stuffing, place it in an appropriate size casserole or ramekin; add it to the oven with the hens about halfway through the roasting time.)

Place the pan in the oven and roast for 10 minutes, lower the heat to 325°F. Roast for 40 minutes more, until done (the internal temperature of the thigh should register 160° on an instant read thermometer), checking from time to time that the hens are browning evenly and rotating the pan 180 degrees about halfway through the cooking time.

Make the sauce and serve

Transfer the hens to a cutting board and cover with foil to keep warm. Transfer the vegetables and pan juices to a small saucepan and add 1 cup of the roasted chicken jus. Bring to simmering over medium heat; simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh strainer into another pan or serving pitcher; discard the solids and keep the sauce warm.

Slice the thighs, legs, and breast meat from each hen—as you would when carving a turkey. Carefully spoon the stuffing from inside each hen and place on individual plates. Arrange the meat from one hen on top of the stuffing on each plate. Spoon the sauce over the top and serve.

Roasted Asparagus with Garlic & Coriander Oil

• 
  
  2 lb. medium or large asparagus, tough bottom ends snapped off
  
  


• 
  
  5-1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (3 large cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  3 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475°F. Line two heavy-duty rimmed baking sheets with parchment.

In a medium bowl, toss the asparagus with 3 Tbs. of the olive oil to coat generously, the salt, and a few grinds of pepper.Turn the asparagus out onto the baking sheets and arrange the spears so that they are evenly spaced (ideally at least 1/2 inch apart from each other).

Roast the asparagus for 5 minutes, then flip with a spatula or tongs. Continue to roast until the asparagus are tender and a bit shriveled, 5 to 8 minutes more.

While the asparagus finishes roasting, combine the remaining olive oil and the garlic in a small saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and cook until the smaller pieces of garlic turn light golden-brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the coriander and cook for about 20 seconds. Immediately remove from the heat and transfer to a small heatproof bowl to prevent overcooking.

Remove the asparagus from the oven, and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and arrange on a serving platter. Spoon the toasted garlic oil over the asparagus.

Pot-Roasted Chicken with Spring Vegetables

Though this dish is easy to make, you shouldn’t think twice about serving it for company. It’s full of flavor and looks elegant presented in shallow bowls.

• 
  
  10 oz. cipollini (about 12) or other small onions
  
  


• 
  
  1 whole chicken (about 3-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. baby carrots with tops (about 12), peeled and stems trimmed to about 1/2 inch
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. small cremini mushrooms, cleaned, stems trimmed flush with caps
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 sprigs fresh thyme, tied together with kitchen string
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or whole small chervil leaves
  
  

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Bring 1 quart of water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan. Add the onions and cook for 1 minute. Drain in a colander, then rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Peel the onions, leaving enough of the root end intact that they will remain whole during cooking.

Remove the giblets from the chicken and discard or save for another use. Pat the chicken dry and trim away any excess fat. Cut off the first two joints of the wings and reserve them. Season the inside of the chicken with salt and pepper. Truss the chicken. Season the outside of the chicken with salt and pepper.

Heat a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over high heat. Add the olive oil and heat until shimmering hot. Add the chicken, breast side down. Lower the heat to medium high and cook, undisturbed, until nicely browned. Turn the chicken with tongs, being careful not to tear the skin, and brown on the remaining sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.

Return the pot to medium-high heat. Add the carrots, mushrooms, cipollini, and reserved wings. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables and wings to the rimmed baking sheet with the chicken. Discard the oil from the pot, add the wine, raise the heat to high, and cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken broth and thyme and return the chicken to the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and braise in the oven for 20 minutes. Take the pot out of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 500°F.

Add the vegetables and wing tips to the pot, return it to the oven (do not cover), and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the breast registers 165°F, about 15 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Transfer the vegetables to a baking dish, cover, and keep warm. Discard the wing tips and thyme.

Pour the braising liquid into a glass measuring cup or fat separator and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Discard the fat and pour the liquid into a 2-quart saucepan. Boil over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1-1/2 cups, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the chicken into breast and leg pieces. Divide the chicken and vegetables among four shallow bowls and pour some of the sauce over all. Sprinkle with the parsley or chervil and serve.

Braised Fingerling Potatoes with Thyme & Butter

This recipe is ripe for interpretation. Swap out the thyme for another favorite herb, such as rosemary or bay. Use olive oil in place of butter. And for a richer flavor, braise the potatoes in lower-salt chicken broth instead of water.

• 
  
  1-3/4 lb. fingerling potatoes, scrubbed
  
  


• 
  
  6 large sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Leave the potatoes whole if less than 1 inch in diameter; halve them lengthwise if fatter. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer in a 12-inch skillet. They will be crowded, but they shouldn’t be stacked. Tuck the thyme sprigs between the potatoes. Cut 3 Tbs. of the butter into 3 pieces. Add the butter, 3/4 tsp. salt, and a few generous grinds of pepper to the potatoes.

Pour over just enough water to almost cover the potatoes (about 2 cups). Partially cover and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Simmer, stirring gently once or twice, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, about 25 minutes. (If the water threatens to dry up before the potatoes are tender, add another 1/2 cup.)

Transfer the potatoes to a serving dish with a slotted spoon. Increase the heat to high and boil the remaining liquid, uncovered, until it’s reduced to a buttery glaze, 5 to 8 minutes, depending on the amount of liquid. Remove the thyme sprigs (most of the leaves will have fallen off). If you would like a richer sauce, swirl in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter. Pour the glaze over the potatoes and serve immediately.

Almond Macarons

The subtly sweet almond flavor of these meringue cookies makes them incredibly versatile: They serve as a blank canvas for different flavor variations.
Watch the video to see Joanne demonstrate how to make classic French macarons and their sweet fillings.

• 
  
  7-3/8 oz. (1-3/4 cups plus 2 Tbs.) confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  4-3/8 oz. (1-1/4 cups plus 2 Tbs.) almond flour
  
  


• 
  
  4 large egg whites, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 recipe filling: either Lemon Curd, Buttercream, or Chocolate Ganache
  
  

Make the batter

Line 3 completely flat baking sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners and set aside.


Using a medium-mesh sieve, sift the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour into a large bowl and set aside. In a clean stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a large bowl and a hand mixer), whip the egg whites on medium speed until foamy and the wires of the beater(s) leave a trail, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 1 Tbs. of the granulated sugar and continue to whip for another 30 to 45 seconds. Repeat 3 times with the remaining granulated sugar. Once all of the sugar is mixed in, continue whipping the whites until they turn glossy and stiff (when you lift the beater(s) from the bowl, the whites should hold a straight peak that doesn’t curl at the tip), 4 to 8 minutes more.


With a large rubber spatula, fold in half of the confectioners’ sugar mixture. Once most of it has been incorporated, fold in the remaining mixture until just combined.

Pipe the cookies

Using a piping bag fitted with a 1/2- to 3/4-inch round tip (Ateco#806 to #809), pipe the batter onto the prepared sheets in rounds that are about 1 inch in diameter and 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, spaced about 1-1/2 inches apart. As you pipe, hold the bag perpendicular to the baking sheet and flick the tip of the bag as you finish each cookie to minimize the peaks. Rap the sheet against the counter several times to flatten the mounds and pop any large air bubbles. Let rest until the meringues no longer feel tacky, 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Bake the cookies

Put 2 of the cookie sheets in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 300°F (let the third sheet sit at room temperature). Bake, rotating the sheets and swapping their positions after 8 minutes, until the meringues are very pale golden, 15 to 20 minutes total. Cool completely on the baking sheets on racks. Meanwhile, return the oven temperature to 325°F and then bake the third sheet as above.


Remove the meringues from the parchment and pair them by size.

Fill the cookies

Using a piping bag with the same tip used to pipe the cookies, pipe 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoons of the filling onto half of the cookies—you want to use just enough filling that it spreads to the edge when topped but doesn’t squish out much when bitten. Top the filled halves with their partners. The cookies are best the day they’re made, but you can store them in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.

Hazelnut-Almond Dacquoise

Most of the offerings at Flour Bakery + Cafe are decidedly American: chocolate chip cookies, banana bread, puddings, and muffins. But when I wrote the opening menu, I knew I wanted to include this very French cake. I really like how dramatic it looks and how well all of the flavors and textures go together. Dacquoise refers to both the baked meringue layers within the cake and the composed cake itself. First, you make a light meringue and quickly and gently fold in hazelnut and almond flour. Then you pipe three long rectangles of the meringue onto a baking sheet and bake them in a slow oven overnight, so they dry out and get crispy. A creamy espresso buttercream that tastes like soft coffee ice cream and a chocolate ganache filling are sandwiched between the layers. The cake is not difficult to make, but all of its components make it important to read the recipe from start to finish so you can organize your prep schedule. Each component can be made in advance, which makes the final assembly of the cake easier.

• 
  
  1/2 cup blanched whole hazelnuts, plus 3/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup blanched whole almonds, plus 1/4 cup blanched whole hazelnuts, toasted
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/3 cups confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  6 egg whites
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup granulated sugar
  
  

For the bittersweet chocolate ganache

• 
  
  1 lb.semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  

For the espresso buttercream

• 
  
  3/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup water
  
  


• 
  
  2 eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1 egg yolk
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 2-inch chunks
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. instant espresso powder, 2 Tbs. instant coffee powder, or 1/4 cup cooled brewed espresso
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 225°F. Line an 18-by-13-inch baking sheet (if you don’t have a sheet that large, line 2 smaller sheets) with parchment paper. Draw three 10-by-3-inch rectangles at least 3 inches apart on one side of the parchment paper, then turn the parchment over and liberally coat the other side of the paper with nonstick cooking spray or butter.

In a food processor, pulse the 1/2 cup hazelnuts until ground to a fine powder. (Stop grinding once they are powdery; if you continue, they will become a paste.) Transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat with the 1/2 cup almonds, and add the ground almonds to the hazelnuts. Sift the confectioners’ sugar into the bowl holding the ground nuts. Add the salt and stir with a rubber spatula until all of the ingredients are well mixed.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they hold soft peaks. (This will take 6 to 7 minutes with a handheld mixer.) The whites will start to froth and turn into bubbles, and eventually the yellowy viscous part will disappear. Keep whipping until you can see the tines of your whip leaving a slight trail in the whites. To test for the soft-peak stage, stop the mixer and lift the whip out of the whites; the whites should peak and then droop.

On medium speed, add the granulated sugar in three equal additions, mixing for 30 seconds after each addition. When all of the granulated sugar has been incorporated, increase the speed to high and beat for about 15 seconds longer. The meringue should be slightly glossy and white and somewhat stiff. Scrape the meringue into a large bowl.

Sprinkle the nut-sugar mixture on top of the meringue. Working quickly and gently, use a rubber spatula to fold the nuts into the meringue, scraping the sides of the bowl to catch any loose nuts. The final consistency will be soupy, gloupy, and puddingy.

Fit a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch round plain tip and fill the bag with the meringue. Following the guidelines you drew on the underside of the parchment paper, pipe 3 rectangles of meringue, “fill in” the rectangles to form your individual layers. Space the rectangles about 3 inches apart (they will expand in the oven).

Bake for about 3 hours, or until the dacquoise rectangles are firm to the touch. Turn off the oven and leave the rectangles in the closed oven for at least 6 hours or for up to 12 hours.

To make the chocolate ganache

Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, scald the cream over medium-high heat (bubbles start to form around the edge of the pan, but the cream is not boiling). Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for about 1 minute, then slowly whisk the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. You should have about 4 cups. Let cool, cover, and store at room temperature for up to overnight. (The ganache can be made up to 1 week in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Remove it from the refrigerator 1 day before using.)

To make the buttercream

In a small saucepan, stir together the granulated sugar and water. Place the pan over high heat, bring to a boil, and cook, without stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the syrup registers 238°F on a candy thermometer (the soft-ball stage). Meanwhile, fit the stand mixer with the whip attachment (or use a handheld mixer) and beat together the eggs and egg yolk on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until pale and light.

When the syrup is ready, remove from the heat. On low speed, slowly add the syrup into the eggs, drizzling it down the side of the bowl to keep it from hitting the whip and spattering. Turn the speed up to medium and whip for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture turns light and fluffy, is pale, and is cool to the touch. Turn the speed down to low and add the butter, a few chunks as a time. Increase the speed to medium and continue to whip for 4 to 5 minutes. The mixture will break and look curdled at first, but don’t worry. It will soon become smooth and silky.

Add the espresso powder and salt and whip until completely combined. You should have about 3 cups. Use within 30 minutes, or cover and leave at room temperature for up to 8 hours, and then beat vigorously with a wood spoon until smooth before using. (Or, transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, then bring to room temperature and beat with the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for a few minutes until smooth before using.)

To assemble the cake

When the dacquoise rectangles are ready, carefully peel them from the parchment paper. Using a small paring knife or a small, serrated knife, trim the edges so they are even and the rectangles are all about the same size. The rectangles are fairly delicate at this point, and if you are not careful, they could shatter. The best way to avoid this is to shave off a little piece at a time until the rectangles are roughly uniform. If a rectangle shatters as you are trimming it, don’t fret. That rectangle can be the middle layer. If 2 or all 3 rectangles shatter, again don’t fret. You can piece them together as you assemble the cake. The cake will not be quite as neat, but the final product will taste the same.

Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the dacquoise rectangles and place one rectangle on the cardboard. Fit a pastry bag fitted with the 1/2-inch round plain tip and fill with about half of the ganache. Pipe a layer of ganache about 1/2 inch thick on top of the dacquoise. Gently press a second dacquoise rectangle directly on top of the ganache layer and press lightly to adhere the dacquoise to the ganache. Fill the pastry bag with about two-thirds of the espresso buttercream and pipe a layer of buttercream about 1/2 inch thick on top of the second dacquoise layer.

Top the buttercream with the last dacquoise rectangle, placing it upside down so the flat side is on top. Press lightly to adhere this last rectangle to the buttercream. Use a small offset spatula to spread the remaining buttercream into the gaps between the layers and to spread a very thin layer all over the dacquoise. Do your best to make the exterior of the cake as smooth as you can—you will need to use a fair amount of buttercream to fill in all the gaps.

Place the cake in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to chill all of the layers. (At this point, the cake can be well wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. If frozen, thaw overnight in the refrigerator before serving.)

When ready to serve, spoon the remaining ganache into a small heatproof bowl, place over (not touching) simmering water in a saucepan, and heat just until melted. (Or, place in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on low power for 30 to 45 seconds, or just until melted and warmed enough to pour freely—not warmer than that). Place a wire rack on a baking sheet (to catch the drips), and place the cake on the rack. Pour the melted ganache evenly over the entire dacquoise, so it covers the top and drips down the sides. Use a small offset spatula to level off the ganache on the top of the cake. Then, with the spatula, spread the ganache that drips down the sides so that it covers the sides evenly. Some of the ganache may mix into the buttercream, which is okay, because the sides will be covered with sliced almonds. Now, press the sliced almonds into the sides of the cake, covering them completely. (It helps to tilt the cake with one hand and press the almonds with your other hand.) Place the cake on a cake plate, and press the whole hazelnuts along the top edge for decoration.

The cake can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Red-Wine-Braised Brisket with Cremini, Carrots, and Thyme

To get a jump start on this recipe, you can season the brisket up to 1 day ahead.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  8-1/2 to 9 lb. beef brisket (whole brisket or flat and/or point halves), untrimmed of fat
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 large yellow onions, diced (about 12 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can tomato purée
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine
  
  


• 
  
  4 large sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  8 large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. cremini or white button mushrooms, quartered if large, halved if small (3 cups)
  
  

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1 Tbs. pepper. Rub the mixture all over the brisket. Let rest at room temperature for two hours or cover and refrigerate overnight (bring the meat to room temperature before cooking).

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and pale gold, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the onions to a large heavy-duty roasting pan and spread them in an even layer. Set the brisket fat side up on the onions (it’s okay if the pieces overlap), cover tightly with heavy-duty foil (or a double layer of regular foil), and braise in the oven for 1 hour. As the brisket cooks, it will give off quite a bit of liquid.

Pour the tomato purée and wine around the brisket and add the thyme sprigs. Cover and continue to braise the meat for 2-1/2 hours.

Add the carrots and mushrooms and continue to braise, covered, until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour more.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board and trim the fat. If using a whole brisket or a point half, separate the two layers of meat and trim the fat. With a slotted spoon, move the vegetables to a serving bowl.

Skim the excess fat from the pan juices, strain 2 cups of the juices, and bring to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil until reduced to about 1 cup; the sauce should be rich and flavorful. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Slice as much brisket across the grain as you need for the meal and serve with the vegetables and reduced sauce. Wrap the leftover brisket, vegetables, and juices separately. Leftovers will keep in the fridge for 3 to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Barbecue-Braised Moroccan Lamb Shanks with Honey-Mint Glaze

Sweet and savory flavors—a hallmark of Moroccan food—combine in this dish. The vegetables and lamb are served over couscous.

For the lamb:

• 
  
  1 Tbs. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. turmeric
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried mint
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  4 meaty lamb shanks, trimmed (about 1 lb. each)
  
  

For the braising liquid:

• 
  
  3 cups chopped yellow onion
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped canned tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro stems (save leaves for garnish)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped garlic
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch lengths, thicker pieces split lengthwise 
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium purple turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chickpeas (freshly cooked or canned)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the glaze:

• 
  
  1/4 cup honey
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dried mint
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. harissa (optional)
  
  

For serving:

• 
  
  1 cup couscous, cooked  
  
  


• 
  
  Reserved cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  
  Harissa (optional)
  
  

Season:

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, ginger, turmeric, cayenne, mint,  coriander, cumin, 2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Rub the shanks with 2 Tbs. of the spice mixture (save the rest for the braising liquid). Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight.

Sear:

Prepare a gas grill for direct grilling over medium heat. Grill the lamb shanks until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Let cool briefly and then tie each shank with 3 or 4 loops of butcher’s twine.

Braise:

Prepare the grill for indirect grilling. In an 8-quart heavy-duty pot, combine the onion, tomatoes, cilantro stems, lemon juice, garlic, and the remaining spice mixture. Stir in 4 cups water and 1 tsp. salt. Nestle the lamb shanks into the pot in a single layer. Set the pot on the grill over the cool zone. Cover the pot and close the grill lid. After 1 hour, add the carrots, turnips, and chickpeas. Cover the pot and the grill, and braise until the lamb shanks and vegetables are fork-tender, an additional 1/2 to 1 hour.

Transfer the shanks to a tray. With a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables and chickpeas to a bowl and keep warm.

Pour the braising liquid into a heat-proof vessel, such as a Pyrex measuring cup, and let sit until the fat rises to the top. Skim off and discard the fat. Taste the liquid; if it’s too watery, return to the pot and boil over high heat until flavorful. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Keep warm.

Glaze:

Prepare the grill for direct grilling over medium heat. In a small saucepan, combine 3 Tbs. of the braising liquid with the honey, lemon juice, mint, and harissa (if using). Boil over medium heat until the mixture has the consistency of a light syrup, 1 to 2 minutes.

Brush the mixture on the shanks and then grill them, turning and basting until the glaze has bubbled and has a few black spots, about 5 minutes total.

To serve, remove the strings from the shanks. Mound the couscous in a large shallow serving bowl. Spoon the vegetables and chickpeas over the couscous. Set the shanks on top, and sprinkle with the cilantro. Season the remaining braising liquid to taste with harissa (if using) and serve on the side.