Green Olive Spread

What makes this spread such a marvel is its “milk mayonnaise” base, an eggless emulsion of milk and vegetable oil. It creates a luscious, neutral canvas, allowing the flavor of the olives to take center stage. You can make the base of the spread 3 days ahead and stir in the olives when ready to serve.

• 
  
  2/3 cup whole milk; more if needed
  
  


• 
  
  12 large oil-packed anchovy fillets
  
  


• 
  
  2 small cloves garlic, smashed
  
  


• 
  
  16 fresh cilantro sprigs, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground white pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/3 cups pitted brined green olives, rinsed if particularly salty, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 baguette, sliced 1/2 inch thick and toasted
  
  

Purée the milk, anchovies, garlic, cilantro, and a pinch of pepper in a blender. With the motor running, slowly pour the oil through the feed hole in the blender cap.


Scoop the spread into a serving bowl, cover with plastic, and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 3 days. Just before serving, stir in the olives. The spread will thicken a bit more when the olives are added. If it thickens too much, thin it with a bit of milk.


Serve with the toasted baguette slices.

Gazpacho Shots

On a particularly hot day in Portugal, a single ice cube is often added to a bowl of gazpacho for cool relief. Here, a tomato juice ice cube and a frozen cucumber slice do the same, in style.

• 
  
  2-1/2 cups rustic bread pieces (torn by hand)
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. very ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped (5 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium English cucumber, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, crushed
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups tomato juice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Working in batches if necessary, pulse the bread, tomatoes, half of the cucumber slices, bell pepper, garlic, and oregano in a blender or food processor until smooth. Add the oil, vinegar, and 3/4 cup water and pulse again. Pass the soup through a fine sieve into a large bowl, pushing on the solids with the back of a ladle to extract as much of the liquid as possible.


Cover with plastic, and refrigerate until very cold, at least 4 hours and up to overnight. Meanwhile, arrange the remaining cucumber slices on a baking sheet lined with a nonstick baking mat or waxed paper and freeze. Fill an ice cube tray with the tomato juice and freeze.


When ready to serve, season the gazpacho to taste with salt and pepper. Pour it into small chilled cups and add a frozen tomato juice cube and a frozen slice of cucumber.

Warm Marinated Olives

Turkish bay leaves have a more complex, well-rounded flavor than the domestic variety. Here, they add a subtle, sweet astringency to a combination of green and black olives.

• 
  
  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
  
  


• 
  
  4 (3x1-inch) strips orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  3 (3x1-inch) strips lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 large or 2 small dried Turkish bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  Generous pinch of ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pitted brined green olives, preferably picholine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pitted brined black olives, preferably Kalamata
  
  

Heat the oil and garlic in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-low heat until the garlic turns golden, about 3 minutes. Add the orange and lemon zests, the rosemary, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, and allspice and sizzle for 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Add the olives and toss to coat. Transfer to a bowl to cool, then cover and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, for at least 2 days and up to 1 week.


Just before serving, gently reheat the olive mixture in a small saucepan over low heat until warmed through, 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop the olives and aromatics into a serving bowl and pour a bit of the oil on top. Serve warm.

Gazpacho Shots

On a particularly hot day in Portugal, a single ice cube is often added to a bowl of gazpacho for cool relief. Here, a tomato juice ice cube and a frozen cucumber slice do the same, in style.

• 
  
  2-1/2 cups rustic bread pieces (torn by hand)
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. very ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped (5 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium English cucumber, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, crushed
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups tomato juice
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Working in batches if necessary, pulse the bread, tomatoes, half of the cucumber slices, bell pepper, garlic, and oregano in a blender or food processor until smooth. Add the oil, vinegar, and 3/4 cup water and pulse again. Pass the soup through a fine sieve into a large bowl, pushing on the solids with the back of a ladle to extract as much of the liquid as possible.


Cover with plastic, and refrigerate until very cold, at least 4 hours and up to overnight. Meanwhile, arrange the remaining cucumber slices on a baking sheet lined with a nonstick baking mat or waxed paper and freeze. Fill an ice cube tray with the tomato juice and freeze.


When ready to serve, season the gazpacho to taste with salt and pepper. Pour it into small chilled cups and add a frozen tomato juice cube and a frozen slice of cucumber.

Spicy Pickled Onions

These onions are a great addition to a cheese plate. Make them at least 5 days before serving to allow the flavors to develop.

• 
  
  3/4 lb. (3 to 3-1/2 cups) fresh or frozen small white or yellow pearl onions (1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter), thawed if frozen
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  5 whole allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 (1-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch slices
  
  


• 
  
  2 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  1 small fresh hot red chile, such as cayenne or piquin, stemmed, or a large pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

If using fresh onions, have a bowl of ice water at the ready. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the onions and blanch until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer them to the ice bath and let cool. To peel, snip off the tip with kitchen scissors and remove the papery outer layers. Set the onions aside. (If using thawed frozen onions, skip this step.)

Pack the onions into a clean 1-quart glass jar. In a 3-quart saucepan over high heat, bring 1/2 cup water and the vinegar, garlic, allspice, sugar, bay leaf, ginger, cloves, chile, and a pinch of salt to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and simmer for 5 minutes to let the flavors blend.

Carefully ladle the vinegar mixture over the onions in the jar. Let cool to room temperature, then cover with the lid. Refrigerate for at least 5 days to let the flavors develop.

Salt Cod and Crab Fritters

You can prepare the fritters ahead and then fry them when you’re ready to eat. Save the potato skins for Potato Skin Curls with Fresh Herbs.

• 
  
  8 oz. dried salt cod
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes (3 or 4), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. hot pepper sauce; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, separated
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat, drained well and picked over
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  

The day before you plan to serve the fritters, rinse the salt cod well under cool running water to remove any surface salt. Put it in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times.


Bring a 4-quart saucepan filled with enough water to accommodate the cod (about 3 quarts) to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the soaked cod, and simmer gently until it flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain well and let cool. Remove and discard any bits of skin, bone, or spongy ends.


Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add 1 Tbs. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl, and mash well. Set aside.


In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add to the mashed potatoes.


Pulse the cooked cod in a food processor until finely shredded. Add the cod to the potatoes, along with the cilantro and hot sauce. Mix well and season to taste with salt and more hot pepper sauce. Stir in the egg yolk and then gently fold in the crab. In a small bowl, whisk the egg white to soft peaks and gently fold it into the cod mixture.


Pinch off walnut-size pieces of the cod mixture, roll them into balls, and set aside on a tray. (The recipe may be prepared up to this point 2 hours ahead; keep refrigerated.)


Heat 1-1/2 inches of vegetable oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 360°F on a deep fat/candy thermometer. Fry the fritters in batches of 4 or 5 until golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt while still sizzling. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Green Olive Spread

What makes this spread such a marvel is its “milk mayonnaise” base, an eggless emulsion of milk and vegetable oil. It creates a luscious, neutral canvas, allowing the flavor of the olives to take center stage. You can make the base of the spread 3 days ahead and stir in the olives when ready to serve.

• 
  
  2/3 cup whole milk; more if needed
  
  


• 
  
  12 large oil-packed anchovy fillets
  
  


• 
  
  2 small cloves garlic, smashed
  
  


• 
  
  16 fresh cilantro sprigs, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground white pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/3 cups pitted brined green olives, rinsed if particularly salty, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 baguette, sliced 1/2 inch thick and toasted
  
  

Purée the milk, anchovies, garlic, cilantro, and a pinch of pepper in a blender. With the motor running, slowly pour the oil through the feed hole in the blender cap.


Scoop the spread into a serving bowl, cover with plastic, and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 3 days. Just before serving, stir in the olives. The spread will thicken a bit more when the olives are added. If it thickens too much, thin it with a bit of milk.


Serve with the toasted baguette slices.

Salt Cod and Crab Fritters

You can prepare the fritters ahead and then fry them when you’re ready to eat. Save the potato skins for Potato Skin Curls with Fresh Herbs.

• 
  
  8 oz. dried salt cod
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes (3 or 4), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. hot pepper sauce; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, separated
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat, drained well and picked over
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  

The day before you plan to serve the fritters, rinse the salt cod well under cool running water to remove any surface salt. Put it in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times.


Bring a 4-quart saucepan filled with enough water to accommodate the cod (about 3 quarts) to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the soaked cod, and simmer gently until it flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain well and let cool. Remove and discard any bits of skin, bone, or spongy ends.


Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add 1 Tbs. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl, and mash well. Set aside.


In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add to the mashed potatoes.


Pulse the cooked cod in a food processor until finely shredded. Add the cod to the potatoes, along with the cilantro and hot sauce. Mix well and season to taste with salt and more hot pepper sauce. Stir in the egg yolk and then gently fold in the crab. In a small bowl, whisk the egg white to soft peaks and gently fold it into the cod mixture.


Pinch off walnut-size pieces of the cod mixture, roll them into balls, and set aside on a tray. (The recipe may be prepared up to this point 2 hours ahead; keep refrigerated.)


Heat 1-1/2 inches of vegetable oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 360°F on a deep fat/candy thermometer. Fry the fritters in batches of 4 or 5 until golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt while still sizzling. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Pine Nut and Orange Cookies

The addition of olive oil makes these tasty cookies moist and rich.

• 
  
  1/2 cup pine nuts
  
  


• 
  
  6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar; more for rolling
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 medium oranges)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, beaten
  
  

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.


Toast the pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to cool.


In a medium bowl, stir the flour, sugar, zest, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and pine nuts. In a small bowl, whisk the oil and egg and add to the dry ingredients. Mix with your hands until the dough is evenly moist and holds together when squeezed, 1 to 2 minutes.


Fill a small bowl with about 1/4 cup sugar. Pinch off 1 rounded teaspoonful of dough (about 1/2 oz.). Shape it into a ball, coat it in the sugar, and set it in on a light-colored nonstick cookie sheet. Dip the bottom of a drinking glass in the sugar and flatten the cookie to slightly less than 1/4 inch thick. Repeat to make 13 more cookies.


Bake until the tops are golden and the edges are brown, 9 to 13 minutes. Let the cookies cool on the sheet for several minutes, then transfer them to a rack to cool completely. While the first batch of cookies bakes, shape the remaining dough into cookies and arrange on a second cookie sheet. When the first batch is done, bake the second batch.


The cookies will keep in an air-tight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.