Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Spaghetti with Green Garlic and Olive Oil

In this riff on the classic spaghetti aglio e olio (spaghetti with garlic and olive oil), green garlic replaces the traditional pungent cloves and lends a more delicate garlic flavor.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 T bs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. green garlic, green parts cut into 3-inch julienne strands, white parts thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  2 T bs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring 3 quarts of well-salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat.


Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over low heat. Add the green garlic and 2 big pinches of salt; stir to coat. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted and softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.


Boil the spaghetti until just al dente, about 1 minute less than package timing. Set aside about 1/2 cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta.


Return the sauté pan to low heat. Add the spaghetti and 1/4 cup of the cooking water; toss well. Add the Parmigiano and 2 Tbs. of the water; toss again. Season to taste with salt and pepper, adding the remaining water if the pasta seems dry. Serve in heated pasta bowls, sprinkled with additional Parmigiano.

Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Spaghetti with Grilled Ratatouille

Grilled vegetables—that summer side dish staple—easily become a satisfying main course when turned into a vibrant sauce for spaghetti.

• 
  
  1 lb. ripe plum tomatoes, halved
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium zucchini (about 12 oz.), trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch rounds on a slight diagonal
  
  


• 
  
  2 baby eggplants (about 12 oz.), trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch rounds on a slight diagonal
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red bell pepper (about 8 oz.), stemmed, seeded, and quartered
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red onion (about 1 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch slices
  
  


• 
  
  1 small head garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. herbes de Provence
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup pitted Kalamata olives
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh marjoram
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup crumbled feta or goat cheese
  
  

Prepare a high gas or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, red pepper, onion, and garlic with 3 Tbs. of the oil, the herbes de Provence, and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper.


Put the vegetables (tomatoes cut side up) and garlic on the grill in a single layer and cover. Grill the tomatoes without turning until their skins have darkened and their flesh is soft; grill the remaining vegetables, turning once, until grill-marked and tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer the tomatoes and garlic to a medium bowl. Transfer the remaining vegetables to another medium bowl and let cool briefly.


When cool enough to handle, very coarsely chop the zucchini, eggplant, bell pepper, and onion; return to the bowl and add 1/2 cup of the olives to the bowl.

Slip the garlic cloves out of their skins into a food processor. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of olives, the tomatoes, and the remaining 1 Tbs. of oil; process until smooth.


Meanwhile, bring 3 quarts of well-salted water to a boil in a large pot. Cook the spaghetti in the water about 1 minute less than the package timing for al dente texture. Reserve 1/2 cup of the water, drain the pasta, and return it to the pot.


Toss 1/2 cup of the tomato-olive sauce and the basil and marjoram with the warm vegetables in the bowl. Toss the remaining sauce and the reserved cooking liquid with the pasta; stir over low heat for about 2 minutes so the pasta absorbs some of the sauce. Divide the pasta among 4 plates, top with the vegetables, sprinkle with the cheese, and serve.

Spaghetti with Mushroom Cream Sauce

This easy pasta gets complex flavor from a combination of mushrooms (try a mix of cremini, shiitake, black trumpet, portobello, and chanterelle), cream, and a secret ingredient—tawny port.

• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 large shallot, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. mixed mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced 1/4 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. tawny port
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley or 2 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon
  
  


• 
  
  Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
  
  

Over high heat, cook the spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water according to the package directions until al dente.

Meanwhile, heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until it just begins to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms, 3/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper and stir constantly until the mushrooms begin to release their liquid, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes more.

Add the port and stir to deglaze the pan. Add the cream and sour cream, bring to a simmer, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid reduces to a saucy consistency, about 2 minutes.

When the spaghetti is al dente, reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Add the spaghetti and the reserved water to the sauce. Toss over low heat, sprinkle with the parsley or tarragon, and toss again to combine. If the sauce seems thin, continue to toss until it has thickened a bit. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Serve, sprinkling with the parmigiano at the table.

Spaghetti with Grilled Ratatouille

Grilled vegetables—that summer side dish staple—easily become a satisfying main course when turned into a vibrant sauce for spaghetti.

• 
  
  1 lb. ripe plum tomatoes, halved
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium zucchini (about 12 oz.), trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch rounds on a slight diagonal
  
  


• 
  
  2 baby eggplants (about 12 oz.), trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch rounds on a slight diagonal
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red bell pepper (about 8 oz.), stemmed, seeded, and quartered
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red onion (about 1 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch slices
  
  


• 
  
  1 small head garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. herbes de Provence
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup pitted Kalamata olives
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh marjoram
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup crumbled feta or goat cheese
  
  

Prepare a high gas or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, red pepper, onion, and garlic with 3 Tbs. of the oil, the herbes de Provence, and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper.


Put the vegetables (tomatoes cut side up) and garlic on the grill in a single layer and cover. Grill the tomatoes without turning until their skins have darkened and their flesh is soft; grill the remaining vegetables, turning once, until grill-marked and tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer the tomatoes and garlic to a medium bowl. Transfer the remaining vegetables to another medium bowl and let cool briefly.


When cool enough to handle, very coarsely chop the zucchini, eggplant, bell pepper, and onion; return to the bowl and add 1/2 cup of the olives to the bowl.

Slip the garlic cloves out of their skins into a food processor. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of olives, the tomatoes, and the remaining 1 Tbs. of oil; process until smooth.


Meanwhile, bring 3 quarts of well-salted water to a boil in a large pot. Cook the spaghetti in the water about 1 minute less than the package timing for al dente texture. Reserve 1/2 cup of the water, drain the pasta, and return it to the pot.


Toss 1/2 cup of the tomato-olive sauce and the basil and marjoram with the warm vegetables in the bowl. Toss the remaining sauce and the reserved cooking liquid with the pasta; stir over low heat for about 2 minutes so the pasta absorbs some of the sauce. Divide the pasta among 4 plates, top with the vegetables, sprinkle with the cheese, and serve.

Classic Pasta Carbonara

A great carbonara is about balancing the cheese, eggs, pork, and pasta. Because there are so few ingredients, it’s important that they be high quality to make this dish a stunner. The secret is tossing beaten eggs with hot pasta off the heat so that the eggs thicken into a velvety sauce without scrambling. Eat the pasta very hot, while the sauce is still smooth and creamy.

• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti, linguine, or bucatini (preferably imported from Italy)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3-1/2 cups using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and 2 Tbs. salt and cook until al dente, about 1 minute less than the package directions, stirring often to prevent sticking. Reserve 1 cup of the water and then drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, put the guanciale or pancetta and olive oil in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet (not cast iron), and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not yet crisp, 3 to 5 minutes for guanciale; 5 to 7 minutes for pancetta (you don’t want to render all the fat). Remove the skillet from the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, Parmigiano, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper until well combined. Slowly whisk in 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water.

Immediately after draining the pasta, add it to the skillet and then quickly pour in the egg mixture, tossing continuously with tongs, until the pasta is well coated, 15 to 30 seconds. Add more of the reserved pasta cooking water if needed to achieve a creamy consistency.

Serve hot, sprinkled with additional black pepper to taste.

Spaghetti with Tomato Conserva, Pancetta, and Pecorino

In this version of the classic Italian pasta dish spaghetti all’Amatriciana, tomato conserva delivers deeper tomato flavor than canned tomatoes. If you can get guanciale (cured pig cheek), try it instead of pancetta for more pronounced porkiness.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. thinly sliced fatty pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups Tomato Conserva, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. finely grated aged Pecorino
  
  


• 
  
  Romano (2 cups using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup packed whole flat-leaf parsley leaves
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta for 1 minute less than package directions for al dente. Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta water and then drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown, about 3 minutes.

Add the conserva, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 cup of the pasta water and toss to combine. Add the pasta and cook, tossing, until al dente, 1to 2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium low and add the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil, half of the pecorino, and the parsley. Toss, adding more pasta water, if needed, to loosen the sauce. Season to taste with salt and serve sprinkled with the remaining pecorino.

Classic Pasta Carbonara

A great carbonara is about balancing the cheese, eggs, pork, and pasta. Because there are so few ingredients, it’s important that they be high quality to make this dish a stunner. The secret is tossing beaten eggs with hot pasta off the heat so that the eggs thicken into a velvety sauce without scrambling. Eat the pasta very hot, while the sauce is still smooth and creamy.

• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti, linguine, or bucatini (preferably imported from Italy)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3-1/2 cups using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and 2 Tbs. salt and cook until al dente, about 1 minute less than the package directions, stirring often to prevent sticking. Reserve 1 cup of the water and then drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, put the guanciale or pancetta and olive oil in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet (not cast iron), and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not yet crisp, 3 to 5 minutes for guanciale; 5 to 7 minutes for pancetta (you don’t want to render all the fat). Remove the skillet from the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, Parmigiano, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper until well combined. Slowly whisk in 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water.

Immediately after draining the pasta, add it to the skillet and then quickly pour in the egg mixture, tossing continuously with tongs, until the pasta is well coated, 15 to 30 seconds. Add more of the reserved pasta cooking water if needed to achieve a creamy consistency.

Serve hot, sprinkled with additional black pepper to taste.

Spaghetti with Summer Tomato Sauce

Serve fresh tomato sauce over pasta the first night you make it and still have plenty left for three more great weeknight meals.

• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti, or other pasta shape
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups Fresh Tomato Sauce 
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil leaves
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
  
  

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water according to package directions; drain. In a small saucepan, heat the tomato sauce over medium-low heat until just simmering. Off the heat, stir in the basil and salt to taste. Toss the pasta with the sauce and sprinkle with the Parmigiano.

Spaghetti with Fresh Breadcrumbs, Garlic, and Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

This is a twist on spaghetti aglio e olio, a traditional Italian pasta dish featuring garlic, olive oil, and chile. The fresh breadcrumbs soak up the spicy oil and garlic in a most delicious way. Be sure to brown the breadcrumbs well, or they’ll be soggy in the finished dish. Ciabatta breadcrumbs are best for this dish, but you can use any mild-flavored bread; leave the crusts on for the best texture. The anchovies are optional, but they bring complexity to the dish without making it taste overtly fishy.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  4 drained oil-packed anchovy fillets (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs (with crust), preferably from a ciabatta loaf
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. dried spaghetti, spaghettini, or linguine
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

Meanwhile, heat the oil and red pepper flakes in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spatula, until the pepper flakes are sizzling, about 5 minutes. Add the anchovies, if using, and mash them with the spatula until they begin to dissolve. Raise the heat to medium, add the breadcrumbs, and cook, stirring often, until the crumbs are deep golden, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until the breadcrumbs are crisp and brown, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley, and season with salt to taste (if using anchovies, you may not need extra salt).

Cook the pasta in the boiling water according to package directions until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta. Immediately return the pasta to the pot over medium-low heat, add half the breadcrumb mixture and toss to combine. If necessary, add some of the reserved cooking water to moisten. Season to taste with salt. Serve sprinkled with the remaining breadcrumbs.

Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Spaghetti with Abruzzese Lamb Ragu

Lamb ragù is a specialty of Abruzzo where farmers have raised sheep for centuries, letting them graze in mountain pastures during the spring and summer, and herding them south to the milder climate of Puglia for the winter. The Abruzzesi love adding chile pepper—fresh, dried, or preserved in oil—to their ragùs, and some is always set out for passing at the table. This ragù is traditionally served with maccheroni alla chitarra, a squarecut noodle similar to thick spaghetti.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg of lamb, cut into 6 or 8 pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 small red onion, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh herbs, such as rosemary and sage
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry red or white wine, such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo or Orvieto
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups canned diced tomatoes, with their juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 1/2 lb. thick spaghetti or maccheroni alla chitarra
   
  
  


• 
  
  Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano shavings for serving (optional)
   
  
  


• 
  
  Minced fresh hot chile or crushed red pepper flakes, for serving
  
  

Tip:

You can make this sauce with either red or white wine; consdier using red during the colder months for a heartier flavor.

Make the ragu

Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Season the lamb on both sides with salt and pepper and sear the meat on one side until well browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, turn and sear the other side until browned, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer the lamb to a deep platter.

Reduce the heat to medium low and add the carrot, celery, onion, garlic, and herbs. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Return the lamb and its juice to the pot, raise the heat to medium high, and pour in the wine. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes and then add the tomatoes. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium low or low to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover partially and let the sauce simmer until the lamb is forktender, about 2-1/2 hours. Using tongs, transfer the meat to a cutting board and let it cool for a few minutes. Meanwhile, if the sauce seems thin, let it continue simmering until thickened to a saucy consistency. If it seems too thick, add a splash of water.

Shred the lamb with two forks and return it to the pot. Simmer gently until the meat is heated through. Season to taste with salt.

Cook the pasta and serve

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top. Garnish with sahved Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, if you like, and serve with minced chiles or red pepper flakes on the side.  

Spaghetti with Green Garlic and Olive Oil

In this riff on the classic spaghetti aglio e olio (spaghetti with garlic and olive oil), green garlic replaces the traditional pungent cloves and lends a more delicate garlic flavor.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 T bs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. green garlic, green parts cut into 3-inch julienne strands, white parts thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  2 T bs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring 3 quarts of well-salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat.


Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over low heat. Add the green garlic and 2 big pinches of salt; stir to coat. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted and softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.


Boil the spaghetti until just al dente, about 1 minute less than package timing. Set aside about 1/2 cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta.


Return the sauté pan to low heat. Add the spaghetti and 1/4 cup of the cooking water; toss well. Add the Parmigiano and 2 Tbs. of the water; toss again. Season to taste with salt and pepper, adding the remaining water if the pasta seems dry. Serve in heated pasta bowls, sprinkled with additional Parmigiano.

Pasta with Clams, Broccoli Raab, and Chile

Sweet Manila clams balance slightly bitter broccoli raab in this satisfying dish. Boiling the pasta and broccoli raab together saves time and makes the pasta itself more flavorful.

• 
  
  12 oz. thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1 large bunch broccoli raab, trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1-in. pieces
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup bottled clam juice
  
  


• 
  
  3 lb. Manila clams, well-rinsed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In an 8-quart pot, bring about 5-1/2 quarts of well-salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until almost tender, about 3 minutes. Add the broccoli raab and cook until the pasta is al dente and the broccoli raab is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a heavy-duty 6-quart pot, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the clam juice and clams. Cover and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes (discard any that don’t open).

Reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water, drain the pasta and broccoli raab and add them to the clam pot. Toss well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the remaining 3 Tbs. of oil and add pasta water to moisten, if needed. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Spaghetti and Meatballs

Plenty of oregano and a touch of fennel makes these tender meatballs super flavorful. This recipe uses a higher proportion of pork than beef or veal in the meatballs because it gives the best texture, but meatloaf mix—equal parts beef, veal, and pork—is an easy-to-find substitute.

For the sauce

• 
  
  1/2 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, crushed
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dry oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  2 26- to 28-oz. containers diced tomatoes, preferably Pomì brand
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the meatballs

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. 80% lean ground beef
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. ground veal
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarse fresh white breadcrumbs
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 1-1/2 tsp. dry oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground fennel seed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the pasta

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  

Make the sauce

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano, and bay leaf. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft, 6 to 10 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until darkened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice and 1 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer over low heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce has reduced by about a third, 40 to 60 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and season to taste with salt. Keep warm, covered. (The sauce can also be refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for 1 month.)

Make the meatballs

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Coat the bottom and sides of an 8x8-inch baking dish with the olive oil. Set aside.

Combine the ground meats, breadcrumbs, ricotta, eggs, parsley, oregano, fennel seed, red pepper flakes, and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix gently but thoroughly with your hands.

Divide the meat into 16 golf-ball-size portions using a 2-oz., 2-inch-diameter ice cream scoop or your hands; roll with wet hands to make them round. Arrange the balls snugly in the baking dish.

Bake the meatballs until they register about 90°F on an instant-read thermometer and are firm to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes. (If you’ve made the tomato sauce ahead, heat it while the meatballs are cooking.)

Remove the meatballs from the oven and drain excess fat, if there is any, from the pan. Ladle half of the sauce over them, return them to the oven, and continue to bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into one reads 165°F, about 15 minutes. (The meatballs can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 2 weeks.)

Cook the pasta

Bring a large covered pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil.

Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes less than package timing for al dente. Reserve 2 cups of the pasta water and drain.

Return the pasta to the pot and mix with the remaining sauce. Add 1 cup pasta water to thin the sauce and cook over medium heat until the pasta is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more pasta water if necessary, and season to taste with salt.

Transfer the spaghetti to a large heated serving bowl. Top with the meatballs and their sauce and serve.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

If you’d like to make this pasta for four people, double the recipe, but transfer the pasta back into the pot used for cooking it and then toss it with the eggs and cheese.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced 1/4 inch thick and cut into 1-1/2 x 1/2-inch rectangles
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup diced red onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs, chilled
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. imported dried spaghetti (I like Setaro brand; avaiable online)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup lightly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. (If the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and continue to cook until it’s soft and golden and the meat is crisp, about 5 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the heat and carefully spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add 1 Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any brown bits from the bottom.

Beat the eggs in a small bowl until smooth and set aside.

Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water according to package directions until it’s just shy of al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al dente, about 1 minute. If the pasta is too dry or starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or 2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of the pan to be just barely wet. If the pan is too dry, the eggs will scramble when you add them.

Remove the skillet from the heat and pour the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important, as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.)

The sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and pepper (you may not need additional salt, as both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty). Serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta, and Hazelnuts

With every bite, this soothing pasta becomes more and more interesting as the heat from the crushed red pepper and the sweetness from the hazelnuts comes through. A sharp chef’s knife makes quick work of slicing Brussels sprouts.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced; some whole leaves are fine (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup coarsely chopped, toasted hazelnuts, preferably peeled
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper-towel-lined plate. Add the garlic to the skillet and cook, swirling the pan, until fragrant, 30 seconds. Remove and discard the garlic. Add the red pepper flakes, Brussels sprouts, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, tossing with tongs, until the sprouts are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in half of the Parmigiano and the lemon juice and remove from the heat.

Boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, drain the pasta, and then add it to the skillet along with 1/4 cup of the reserved water.

Cook over medium-high heat, tossing and adding more water as needed, until the Brussels sprouts are tender, about 1 minute. Stir in the pancetta and season generously with black pepper. Taste and season with additional salt and lemon juice, if you like. Serve topped with the hazelnuts and the remaining Parmigiano.

Spaghetti with Garlic & Spinach

Quickly cooking the garlic over low heat draws out some of its pungency, leaving behind lots of garlicky taste without the bite.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 to 8 large cloves garlic (1-1/2 oz.), halved lengthwise, peeled, germs (the sprout in the center of the clove) removed, and thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. baby spinach (10 loosely packed cups)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup (about 2 oz.) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.

Combine the oil and garlic in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring often, until the garlic becomes fragrant and is just beginning to turn golden, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the spinach, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, tossing gently with tongs, until the spinach begins to wilt, 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in the boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until it’s just tender to the tooth (see the package for cooking time). Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta.

Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the drained pasta and 1/2 cup of the reserved cooking water. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, tossing and stirring to combine and blend the flavors. If the pasta isn’t tender or seems dry, add the remainder of the cooking water and continue to cook and stir until done. Toss with the cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Classic Pasta Carbonara

A great carbonara is about balancing the cheese, eggs, pork, and pasta. Because there are so few ingredients, it’s important that they be high quality to make this dish a stunner. The secret is tossing beaten eggs with hot pasta off the heat so that the eggs thicken into a velvety sauce without scrambling. Eat the pasta very hot, while the sauce is still smooth and creamy.

• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti, linguine, or bucatini (preferably imported from Italy)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3-1/2 cups using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and 2 Tbs. salt and cook until al dente, about 1 minute less than the package directions, stirring often to prevent sticking. Reserve 1 cup of the water and then drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, put the guanciale or pancetta and olive oil in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet (not cast iron), and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not yet crisp, 3 to 5 minutes for guanciale; 5 to 7 minutes for pancetta (you don’t want to render all the fat). Remove the skillet from the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, Parmigiano, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper until well combined. Slowly whisk in 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water.

Immediately after draining the pasta, add it to the skillet and then quickly pour in the egg mixture, tossing continuously with tongs, until the pasta is well coated, 15 to 30 seconds. Add more of the reserved pasta cooking water if needed to achieve a creamy consistency.

Serve hot, sprinkled with additional black pepper to taste.