1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
4 (3x1-inch) strips orange zest
3 (3x1-inch) strips lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves
1 large or 2 small dried Turkish bay leaves
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
Generous pinch of ground allspice
1 cup pitted brined green olives, preferably picholine
1 cup pitted brined black olives, preferably Kalamata
Heat the oil and garlic in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-low heat until the garlic turns golden, about 3 minutes. Add the orange and lemon zests, the rosemary, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, and allspice and sizzle for 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Add the olives and toss to coat. Transfer to a bowl to cool, then cover and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, for at least 2 days and up to 1 week.
Just before serving, gently reheat the olive mixture in a small saucepan over low heat until warmed through, 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop the olives and aromatics into a serving bowl and pour a bit of the oil on top. Serve warm.
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