Showing posts with label Mussels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mussels. Show all posts

Monday, December 9, 2013

Classic Seafood Paella

An icon of Spain's cultural identity, paella done right is a truly spectactular dish: a thin blanket of saffron-scented  rice with a crackly, crunchy bottom crust (or socarrat), studded with fresh seafood.



  • 1/4 tsp. crumbled saffron threads




  • One 8-oz. bottle clam juice




  • 1 small yellow onion (4 oz.)




  • 1 very large or 2 small ripe tomatoes (12 oz. total)




  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 8 medium cloves garlic, 4 finely chopped, 4 peeled but whole




  • 1/2 tsp. sweet or hot pimentón (smoked paprika)




  • Kosher salt




  • 12 large (31 to 40 per lb.) shrimp, peeled with tail segment left intact and deveined (reserve the shells)




  • 1 lb. mussels, rinsed well




  • 1-3/4 cups Spanish bomba rice




  • 12 all-natural (dry-packed) sea scallops, side muscles removed




  • 1 medium lemon, sliced or cut in wedges




Make the saffron-clam broth

In a small saucepan set over medium-low heat, toast the saffron until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Off the heat, use the back of a small spoon to crush the saffron as finely as possible. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside to infuse.



Make the sofrito

Halve and peel the onion. Grate the onion halves on the largest holes of a box grater to get about 1/3 cup of onion purée. Cut the tomato in half horizontally (not through the stem). Grate the tomato halves on the box grater all the way down to the skin to get about 1-1/4 cups juicy tomato pulp.


Set a 16-inch paella pan over medium-low heat. Add 1/4 cup of the oil and when it’s hot, add the grated onion. Cook the onion in the center of the pan, stirring occasionally, until it softens and darkens slightly, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato pulp, chopped and whole garlic, pimentón, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Gently cook the mixture in the center of the pan, stirring frequently, until it’s deep, dark red and very thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed, being careful not to let it burn. If it starts to stick, deglaze by adding a little water and scraping the pan.



Make the shrimp-mussel broth

While the sofrito cooks, put the shrimp shells in a 4-quart saucepan. Stir over medium-high heat until they’re dry and pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 5 cups water and bring to a boil. Pick through the mussels to find the smallest twelve. Remove the beards if present, and reserve the mussels in the refrigerator. Add the remaining mussels to the boiling water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the broth into a 2-quart liquid measure, discarding the shells and mussels. Add the saffron-clam broth and 1-1/2 tsp. salt to the shrimp-mussel broth. Measure out 5-1/4 cups of the broth, reserving the remainder.



Make the paella

When the sofrito is done, add the rice to the paella pan and cook briefly over medium heat, stirring constantly to combine it with the sofrito, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the rice evenly in the pan. Increase the heat to high and slowly pour in the 5-1/4 cups broth—try not to disturb the rice so it stays in an even layer. From this point on, do not stir the rice. Bring to a boil and then adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous simmer, repositioning the pan as needed so it bubbles all the way to the edges (the bubbles at the edge will be much smaller than the bubbles at the center). Simmer vigorously until the rice appears at the level of the broth, about 8 minutes.


Arrange the reserved mussels in the pan, distributing them evenly. Lower the heat so the broth maintains a more moderate simmer, and after another 5 minutes, arrange the shrimp in the pan, pushing them into the rice. Continue simmering until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender but still firm(taste a few grains below the top layer), about 5 minutes more. The rice needs to simmer for roughly 18 minutes total. If at any point the broth seems to be evaporating too quickly, reduce the heat slightly, cover loosely with sheets of foil, or add a little more broth or water, 1/4 cup at a time as needed. Also, if the mussels or shrimp are still undercooked by the time the rice is done, cover loosely with foil for a few minutes to trap the heat and finish the cooking.


While the paella cooks, lightly season the scallops with salt. Heat the remaining 2 tsp. oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallops and cook until nicely browned on both sides and just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side.


When the rice is done, arrange the scallops on top of the paella. Check for any caramelized rice sticking to the pan by using a spoon to feel for resistance on the bottom of the pan. Check in several areas, especially in the center of the pan. If there is none, increase the heat to medium high and carefully cook, moving the pan around, until you hear a good deal of crackling and feel resistance, 1 to 2 minutes; if you smell burning, immediately remove the pan from the heat.


Remove the pan from the heat, cover with a clean dishtowel, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Arrange the lemon wedges around the perimeter of the pan.


Halibut and Mussel Stew with Fennel, Peppers, and Saffron

This seafood stew, brimming with some of Spain's most celebrated flavors, is easily adaptable to serve meat-lovers and vegetarians alike: see the variation below to serve one vegetarian, or check out the completely meatless version of the stew.



  • 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more for the bread




  • 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (2 cups)




  • 1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed, quartered lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (4 cups)




  • 1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (3/4 cup)




  • 1 small red bell pepper, stem, ribs, and seeds removed and discarded; flesh thinly sliced lengthwise (1-1/2 cups)




  • 3 Tbs. tomato paste




  • 2 medium cloves garlic (1 minced, 1 whole)




  • 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Albariño




  • One 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed




  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme




  • 1/8  tsp. pimentón (smoked paprika)




  • 2 pinches saffron




  • 1 bay leaf




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 4 baguette slices, 3/4 inch thick




  • 11 oz. skinless halibut fillets or other firm white fish, cut into 1-inch chunks




  • 13 mussels, scrubbed and debearded




Heat the oil in a 5-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add 3-1/2 cups of water, the chickpeas, thyme, pimentón, saffron, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the stew has thickened slightly, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet and brush both sides with oil. Broil, flipping once, until both sides are golden-brown, about 4 minutes total. Remove from the oven and rub each slice with the whole clove of garlic.


Gently stir the halibut and mussels into the stew, cover, and simmer until all the mussels have opened and the fish is cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open. Ladle into wide, shallow bowls and serve with the garlic toasts.


Cioppino


For the garlic oil and garlic chips:




  • 4 large cloves garlic




  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper



For the shellfish stock:




  • 1 lb. large shrimp (16-20 count)




  • 6-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth



For the cioppino broth:




  • 1/4 cup olive oil




  • 3 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 2  medium)




  • 1 cup coarsely chopped carrot (about 2  medium)




  • 2/3 cup coarsely chopped celery or fennel (about 2  medium ribs celery or 1/4 medium fennel bulb)




  • 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (5 to 6 large cloves)




  • 6 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, broken up, with their juices, or diced tomatoes with their juices (2 28-oz. cans)




  • 2-1/2 cups (3/4 bottle) medium-bodied red wine, such as Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, or Sangiovese




  • 6 cups Shellfish Stock (above)




  • 3 large bay leaves




  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (or 1 Tbs. dried)




  • 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tsp. dried)




  • 2 tsp. fennel seeds




  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes; more to taste




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper



For finishing the stew:




  • 8 3/4-inch-thick slices sourdough bread




  • Garlic Oil (above)




  • Cioppino Broth (above)




  • 1 to 1-1/2 lb. small hardshell clams, such as mahogany or cherrystones, scrubbed, or 1 whole Dungeness crab (about 2 lb.), cleaned and cut into sections (have the fishmonger do this)




  • 1 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh mussels (18 to 24), scrubbed and debearded




  • 2-1/2 lb. fillets of halibut, monkfish, or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes




  • Reserved peeled shrimp from above




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




  • Garlic Chips (above) for garnish




Up to a day ahead:


Make the garlic oil and garlic chips: Cut the garlic cloves into 1/8-inch slices, put them in a small saucepan with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the garlic turns light golden brown, 15 to 20  min., adjusting the heat as needed to keep the garlic bubbling gently as it cooks. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain, reserving both the oil and the garlic chips separately. Reserve the garlic chips for garnish (don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a day or they’ll get soggy). Refrigerate the oil in a clean, sealed container. (You’ll use the oil for the sourdough croutons; use any leftover oil for vinaigrettes, roasted vege- tables, pasta, or roast chicken.)



Make an easy shellfish stock: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. (Refrigerate the shelled shrimp to use later in the stew.) Simmer the shells in the chicken broth for 5  min., covered. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.



Make the broth: Heat the olive oil in an 8-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery of fennel, and chopped garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 15 to 20  min. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the wine, shellfish stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seeds, chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 20 min. Strain through a medium sieve, pressing on the solids in the sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Rinse the pot and return the broth to the pot. Boil the broth until reduced to 8 cups. (If you over-reduce the broth, just add water to compensate.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed, remembering that the fish will add some saltiness to the stew. Refrigerate until ready to use.



Cioppino Recipe


Half an hour before serving:


Make the toast and cook the shellfish: Position a rack directly under the broiler and heat the broiler. Brush the bread on both sides with the reserved garlic oil. Put the bread on a baking sheet (or directly on the rack) and toast on both sides. While you toast the bread, return the broth to a simmer over medium-high to high  heat.


When each batch of seafood is added, it will cause the temperature of the broth to plunge, so you might need to raise and lower the heat to maintain a simmer. If using clams, start by adding them to the broth and simmer until they open, 3 to 5 min. Add the mussels and crab, if using, and simmer until the mussels have opened, 2 to 3 min. Add the fish and shrimp. Stir carefully with a slotted spoon to get all the fish and shrimp into the broth, but try not to break the pieces up. Cover and cook until the fish is just barely cooked through, another 3  to 5 min., keeping in mind that the fish will continue to cook a little in the time it takes to dish out the servings.



Cioppino Recipe


Assemble the stew: Set a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of each warm bowl and evenly portion the seafood into the bowls (be sure to discard any unopened clams or mussels). Ladle the broth on top.



Cioppino Recipe


Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the chopped parsley and garlic chips over all and serve immediately.



Cioppino Recipe

Shellfish with Fennel, Escarole, and Kale

Your Christmas Eve meal should be festive, but not so labor-intensive you spend all your time in the kitchen instead of visiting with family and friends. This simple but indulgent mixed shellfish dish from Michelle Bernstein of Michy's, in Miami, is great on its own with a crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or as part of an authentic Italian holiday feast. 



  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter




  • 2 Tbs. olive oil




  • 12 grape tomatoes




  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel




  • 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced




  • 1 cup thinly sliced escarole leaves




  • 1 Tbs. amontillado sherry




  • 1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice




  • 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed




  • 16 mussels, debearded and scrubbed




  • 6-1/2 oz. (1 cup) medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined, with tails left intact




  • 1 cup thinly sliced kale leaves




  • 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes




  • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish




  • 1/2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced




  • Finely grated zest of half a lemon (2 tsp.)




  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until it turns golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.


In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they start to blister, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic. Cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic becomes golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir for 1 minute. Add the sherry, raise the heat to high, and cook until it evaporates, about 30 seconds. Add the fish broth and boil until it reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the open shellfish and shrimp to a large bowl and cover loosely with foil. Toss any that do not open.


Stir the kale and pepper flakes into the broth and cook until the kale wilts, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and rosemary. Pour in the browned butter. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Distribute the broth, vegetables, and seafood among 4 wide, deep bowls. Garnish with parsley.


Thai Seafood Salad (Yum Talay)

This dish boasts a playful mix of flavors: the natural sweetness of fresh seafood, the breezy notes of cilantro and mint, and the sharp accent of lime juice against a little sizzle of chile heat.
In Thai cuisine, a yum is a hearty dish consisting mostly of meat, fish, or seafood, tossed just before serving with a simple mixture of fish sauce, fresh or dried chiles, lime juice, and herbs and often served atop a bed of salad greens. A yum is a stand-alone dish, perfect for a light main course or even an appetizer. The word yum refers to the action of combining an array of hot and tangy ingredients, and talay is the Thai word for ocean; thus, the mixed seafood version is called yum talay.
You can prepare the components in advance but be sure to yum the dressing and seafood right before serving—this is the key to keeping the vibrant flavors distinct.
For the seafood:




  • 24 small mussels




  • 1 Tbs. table salt




  • 3/4 lb. medium (51 to 60 per lb.) fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined




  • 1/2 lb. cleaned squid, bodies sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch rings and tentacles cut in half if large




  • 1/2 lb. sea scallops or bay scallops




  • 1/4 lb. fresh or pasteurized jumbo lump crabmeat




Tip:
You can find frozen cleaned squid in 1-lb. packages in the freezer section. Some markets have thawed cleaned squid on ice at the seafood counter.

For the dressing:




  • 6 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)




  • 4-1/2 Tbs. fish sauce




  • 1-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar




  • 2 tsp. finely chopped unseeded fresh hot green chiles (like serrano or jalapeño)




  • 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)



For the salad:




  • 2 cups bite-size pieces of Boston lettuce, rinsed and spun dry (1 large head)




  • 3 Tbs. thinly sliced shallot (1 large)




  • 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (4 to 5, white and green parts)




  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro




  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint




  • 1/2 cup sliced English cucumber (halve cucumber lengthwise and slice into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons)




  • 1/2 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes




Tip:
Chop the cilantro and mint at the last minute, just before mixing with the salad, so their flavor won't have time to fade.


Cook the seafood:

Scrub the mussels well under running water and pull off any "beards." Discard any mussels that don't close tightly when tapped on the counter. Put closed mussels in a medium saucepan. Add about 1/2 cup water, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan by about 1/4 inch. Cover and set over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and cook until the shells have opened, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a plate, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Discard any unopened ones. Remove the cooked mussels from their shells and put in a medium bowl; discard the shells and cooking liquid.


To cook the remaining seafood, bring a 3-qt. saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and let the water return to a boil. Pour the shrimp into the boiling water and cook until the largest one is pink on the outside, opaque on the inside, and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. The water may not return to the boil before they are done. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and drop into the bowl with the mussels.



After the water returns to a rolling boil, add the squid and cook just until they become firm and the rings turn bright white, about 1 minute. Scoop them out and drop them into the bowl along with the shrimp and mussels.


When the water returns to a rolling boil, cook the scallops until just cooked through and no longer translucent inside, 1 to 2 minutes for bay scallops, 2 to 3 minutes for sea scallops. Scoop them out and drop into the bowl as well (if using sea scallops, you may want to halve or quarter them first).


Add the lump crabmeat chunks to the bowl of seafood. Set the seafood aside on the counter while you prepare the dressing and other ingredients for the salad.



Make the dressing:

In a medium-large bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, chiles, and garlic. Stir to dissolve the sugar and combine everything well. Set aside.



Assemble the salad:

Arrange the lettuce on a large serving platter or on individual serving plates as a bed for the seafood.


Transfer the cooked seafood to the bowl containing the lime-juice dressing. Add the shallots and use your hands or a wooden spoon to gently toss everything well. Add the scallions, cilantro, and mint and mix well again. Scoop the seafood onto the platter or serving plates with a slotted spoon. Toss the cucumber and tomato in the dressing remaining in the bowl and scatter around the seafood. Drizzle any remaining dressing from the bowl over the salad, especially over any lettuce not covered by the seafood. Serve immediately.


Steamed Mussels with Wine, Garlic & Parsley





  • 3-1/2 to 4 lb. mussels




  • 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 1 Tbs. unsalted butter




  • 6 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped




  • 4 shallots, thinly sliced




  • 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes




  • 1-1/2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or any other crisp, herbal white wine




  • 3/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




  • Good-quality crusty bread, sliced or torn into pieces, for serving




Rinse the mussels well under cold water. Pick them over, pulling off any beards and discarding any mussels that are broken or gaping open.


In a large pot with a lid, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. Add the garlic, shallots, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant and soft but not colored, 3 to 5 minutes.


Add the mussels, wine, and half of the parsley. Increase the heat to high, and cover the pan. After 2 minutes, remove the lid and toss the mussels well with a large spoon. Cover the pot again and cook until the mussels have opened wide, another 3 to 4 minutes. Add the remaining parsley, give the mussels a final toss, and divide the mussels and the broth among bowls. Serve the bread alongside.


Pine Bough-Roasted Mussels

This preparation has roots in a French seaside tradition of a large cookout similar to a New England clambake. Pine is usually avoided in barbecue circles, as the resinous smoke can be overpowering and bitter. But given the quick cooking time of mussels, this highly aromatic and dense smoke is a perfect touch. Here the mussels are served with tarragon aioli, as the cool flavor of tarragon softens the pitch flavor of pine. But any way you present this, it is an impressive undertaking and one that is sure to have all your guests gathered around the grill to watch.



  • 1 large egg yolk




  • 1 Tbs. white wine vinegar




  • 1 clove garlic, grated on a Microplane or very finely minced




  • Leaves from 8 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped




  • Kosher salt




  • 2 cups canola oil




  • 4 to 6 pine boughs, enough to cover the grill surface




  • 4 lb. mussels, thoroughly scrubbed and debearded (discard any that won’t close)




Mix the egg yolk, vinegar, garlic, tarragon, and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Whisk to combine, then begin to add the canola oil in a slow, steady stream. Continue whisking as you add the oil and, remember, patience is the key. The sauce will thicken as you add the oil until it is a smooth mayonnaise; if it gets too thick, add a couple of drops of water to thin it out. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to serve or up to 2 days (any longer than that, and the garlic flavor gets too strong).


Place the pine boughs over a medium charcoal grill fire in which the coals have been spread out around the base grate. As soon as the pine begins to sizzle and release wisps of steam and smoke, scatter the mussels over the boughs and cover the grill. The pine will smolder and smoke, perfuming the mussels as they pop open. Uncover the grill and check them after 7 minutes. Remove the mussels that have opened, which should be most of them. Continue to cook those that haven’t opened for another 5 minutes or so. Discard any that insist on remaining closed.


Place one of the charred pine boughs on a platter and pile the mussels around it. Provide toothpicks and serve them with a bowl of the aioli.







Where There's Smoke


Simple Seafood Stew

It’s hard to decide which is better, the mix of fresh, sweet seafood or the briny, buttery broth in the bottom of the bowl. Fortunately, each aromatic bowlful of stew contains plenty of both. Serving some crusty bread with this dish for mopping up the broth is simply nonnegotiable.



  • 12 jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled (reserve the shells) and deveined




  • 1 clove garlic, smashed and peeled, plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped




  • 4 large sprigs fresh parsley, plus 1/4 cup chopped




  • 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, more to taste




  • 1 Tbs. olive oil




  • 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot




  • 1 cup dry white wine




  • 2 dozen small littleneck clams, scrubbed




  • 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced




  • 8 large sea scallops, side muscle removed, halved horizontally




In a 5- to 6-quart pot, toast the shrimp shells and the garlic clove over medium-high heat, stirring, until the shells turn pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the parsley sprigs and 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then boil for 3 minutes. Strain the broth into a bowl and reserve.


Heat the butter and olive oil in the cleaned pot over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the chopped garlic and the shallot and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and the reserved shrimp broth and bring to a boil over high heat.


Add the clams and mussels and cook, covered, until the mussels start to open, about 4 minutes. As they open, transfer them with a slotted spoon to a large, wide serving bowl or 4 large individual bowls. Continue to cook the clams, stirring occasionally, until they start to open, about 2 minutes more. Transfer them to the serving bowl. (Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open after 8 minutes.) Sprinkle with half of the chopped parsley.


Reduce the heat to medium and season the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Add the tomato, scallops, and shrimp to the broth, cover, and cook until the shrimp turn pink and the scallops are opaque, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp, scallops, and broth to the bowl and sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley.


Grilled Mussels, Clams, and Oysters

  Nothing quite matches the sweet, intense,and slightly charred taste of shellfish when it's cooked on the grill. Serve these simple grilled mussels, clams, and oysters with Bloody Mary Cocktail Sauce, Old Bay Dipping Sauce, or Orange-Saffron Aioli.



  • 30 fresh mussels, clams, or oysters in the shell




Scrub the shellfish with a stiff brush under cool running water. If the mussels have beards, pull them off. Pat dry.


Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal fire. When the grill is ready, set the shellfish directly on the cooking grate (oysters cupped side down). Grill until the shells pop open, the meat is plump, and the juices are boiling and sizzling in the shell, 3 to 7 minutes for mussels, 6 to 10 minutes for clams, and 4 to 6 minutes for oysters; there’s no need to turn the shellfish. (Cooking times can vary widely, because the larger the shellfish, the longer it will take to cook; on the other hand, the fresher it is, the shorter the cooking time.) Remove the shellfish as they finish cooking, protecting your hands with tongs or hot pads. Discard any that don’t open. Serve on the half shell with the dipping sauce of your choice.


Classic Seafood Paella

An icon of Spain's cultural identity, paella done right is a truly spectactular dish: a thin blanket of saffron-scented  rice with a crackly, crunchy bottom crust (or socarrat), studded with fresh seafood.



  • 1/4 tsp. crumbled saffron threads




  • One 8-oz. bottle clam juice




  • 1 small yellow onion (4 oz.)




  • 1 very large or 2 small ripe tomatoes (12 oz. total)




  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 8 medium cloves garlic, 4 finely chopped, 4 peeled but whole




  • 1/2 tsp. sweet or hot pimentón (smoked paprika)




  • Kosher salt




  • 12 large (31 to 40 per lb.) shrimp, peeled with tail segment left intact and deveined (reserve the shells)




  • 1 lb. mussels, rinsed well




  • 1-3/4 cups Spanish bomba rice




  • 12 all-natural (dry-packed) sea scallops, side muscles removed




  • 1 medium lemon, sliced or cut in wedges




Make the saffron-clam broth

In a small saucepan set over medium-low heat, toast the saffron until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Off the heat, use the back of a small spoon to crush the saffron as finely as possible. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside to infuse.



Make the sofrito

Halve and peel the onion. Grate the onion halves on the largest holes of a box grater to get about 1/3 cup of onion purée. Cut the tomato in half horizontally (not through the stem). Grate the tomato halves on the box grater all the way down to the skin to get about 1-1/4 cups juicy tomato pulp.


Set a 16-inch paella pan over medium-low heat. Add 1/4 cup of the oil and when it’s hot, add the grated onion. Cook the onion in the center of the pan, stirring occasionally, until it softens and darkens slightly, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato pulp, chopped and whole garlic, pimentón, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Gently cook the mixture in the center of the pan, stirring frequently, until it’s deep, dark red and very thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed, being careful not to let it burn. If it starts to stick, deglaze by adding a little water and scraping the pan.



Make the shrimp-mussel broth

While the sofrito cooks, put the shrimp shells in a 4-quart saucepan. Stir over medium-high heat until they’re dry and pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 5 cups water and bring to a boil. Pick through the mussels to find the smallest twelve. Remove the beards if present, and reserve the mussels in the refrigerator. Add the remaining mussels to the boiling water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the broth into a 2-quart liquid measure, discarding the shells and mussels. Add the saffron-clam broth and 1-1/2 tsp. salt to the shrimp-mussel broth. Measure out 5-1/4 cups of the broth, reserving the remainder.



Make the paella

When the sofrito is done, add the rice to the paella pan and cook briefly over medium heat, stirring constantly to combine it with the sofrito, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the rice evenly in the pan. Increase the heat to high and slowly pour in the 5-1/4 cups broth—try not to disturb the rice so it stays in an even layer. From this point on, do not stir the rice. Bring to a boil and then adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous simmer, repositioning the pan as needed so it bubbles all the way to the edges (the bubbles at the edge will be much smaller than the bubbles at the center). Simmer vigorously until the rice appears at the level of the broth, about 8 minutes.


Arrange the reserved mussels in the pan, distributing them evenly. Lower the heat so the broth maintains a more moderate simmer, and after another 5 minutes, arrange the shrimp in the pan, pushing them into the rice. Continue simmering until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender but still firm(taste a few grains below the top layer), about 5 minutes more. The rice needs to simmer for roughly 18 minutes total. If at any point the broth seems to be evaporating too quickly, reduce the heat slightly, cover loosely with sheets of foil, or add a little more broth or water, 1/4 cup at a time as needed. Also, if the mussels or shrimp are still undercooked by the time the rice is done, cover loosely with foil for a few minutes to trap the heat and finish the cooking.


While the paella cooks, lightly season the scallops with salt. Heat the remaining 2 tsp. oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallops and cook until nicely browned on both sides and just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side.


When the rice is done, arrange the scallops on top of the paella. Check for any caramelized rice sticking to the pan by using a spoon to feel for resistance on the bottom of the pan. Check in several areas, especially in the center of the pan. If there is none, increase the heat to medium high and carefully cook, moving the pan around, until you hear a good deal of crackling and feel resistance, 1 to 2 minutes; if you smell burning, immediately remove the pan from the heat.


Remove the pan from the heat, cover with a clean dishtowel, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Arrange the lemon wedges around the perimeter of the pan.


Halibut and Mussel Stew with Fennel, Peppers, and Saffron

This seafood stew, brimming with some of Spain's most celebrated flavors, is easily adaptable to serve meat-lovers and vegetarians alike: see the variation below to serve one vegetarian, or check out the completely meatless version of the stew.



  • 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more for the bread




  • 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (2 cups)




  • 1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed, quartered lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (4 cups)




  • 1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (3/4 cup)




  • 1 small red bell pepper, stem, ribs, and seeds removed and discarded; flesh thinly sliced lengthwise (1-1/2 cups)




  • 3 Tbs. tomato paste




  • 2 medium cloves garlic (1 minced, 1 whole)




  • 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Albariño




  • One 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed




  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme




  • 1/8  tsp. pimentón (smoked paprika)




  • 2 pinches saffron




  • 1 bay leaf




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 4 baguette slices, 3/4 inch thick




  • 11 oz. skinless halibut fillets or other firm white fish, cut into 1-inch chunks




  • 13 mussels, scrubbed and debearded




Heat the oil in a 5-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add 3-1/2 cups of water, the chickpeas, thyme, pimentón, saffron, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the stew has thickened slightly, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet and brush both sides with oil. Broil, flipping once, until both sides are golden-brown, about 4 minutes total. Remove from the oven and rub each slice with the whole clove of garlic.


Gently stir the halibut and mussels into the stew, cover, and simmer until all the mussels have opened and the fish is cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open. Ladle into wide, shallow bowls and serve with the garlic toasts.


Steamed Mussels with Chorizo, Smoked Paprika, and Garlicky Croutons

Just 30 minutes to a delicious dinner that could work on a weeknight or even a casual dinner party. The chorizo and mussels cook together, creating a briny, smoky broth that begs to be sopped up with garlic toast. Add a salad and you’re done.



  • 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 6 cloves garlic, 2 minced and 4 thinly sliced




  • 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced




  • Kosher salt




  • 3/4 tsp. smoked sweet paprika




  • 1 cup seeded and diced fresh tomato or one 14-1/2-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained




  • 1 cup dry white wine




  • 6 oz. Spanish-style chorizo, cut into




  • 3/8-inch pieces (1-1/4 cups)




  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme




  • 4 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded




  • 1 baguette, cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices




  • Freshly ground black pepper




Combine 3 Tbs. of the olive oil and the minced garlic in a small bowl and set aside.


Position an oven rack about 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sliced garlic and cook until the edges of the onion begin to brown, about 1 minute. Stir in the smoked paprika and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, wine, chorizo, and thyme and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Stir in the mussels, coating them with the sauce mixture. Cover and cook, stirring 2 or 3 times, until the mussels have opened, 8 to 10 minutes.


Meanwhile, arrange the baguette slices in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and brush them with the garlic oil, dividing the bits of garlic evenly among the slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and then broil, rotating the baking sheet as needed, until evenly browned and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes.


Discard any mussels that have not opened. Serve the mussels with the sauce and the croutons.


Thai Shrimp, Scallop, and Mussel Curry

Jarred curry paste, available in the ethnic section of most supermarkets, instantly adds lots of flavor to a coconut curry. Because this dish cooks so quickly, it’s best to have almost everything prepared before you start to cook.



  • 1-1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil




  • 1/4 cup Thai green curry paste




  • 1 13- to 14-oz. can of unsweetened coconut milk




  • 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice




  • 1 Tbs. fish sauce




  • 1/4 tsp. chile sauce, such as sambal oelek or Sriracha




  • 1 lb. mussels, rinsed and debearded




  • 1/2 lb. dry-packed sea scallops, side muscle removed and halved crosswise




  • 3/4 lb. baby bok choy (5 to 6 heads), thinly sliced




  • 3/4 lb. medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.), peeled and deveined




  • 3 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced




  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil




  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro




Heat the oil in a wide 5- to 6-quart pot or a deep 12-in. skillet over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring with a wooden spatula, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to high and stir in the coconut milk, 3/4 cup water, the lime juice, fish sauce, and chile sauce. Cover and cook for 2 minutes to blend the flavors.


Add the mussels, scallops, and bok choy. Cover and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook until the shrimp and scallops are just opaque in the center and the mussels open, about 3 minutes (discard any that don’t open). Serve sprinkled with the scallions, basil, and cilantro.


Pine Bough-Roasted Mussels

This preparation has roots in a French seaside tradition of a large cookout similar to a New England clambake. Pine is usually avoided in barbecue circles, as the resinous smoke can be overpowering and bitter. But given the quick cooking time of mussels, this highly aromatic and dense smoke is a perfect touch. Here the mussels are served with tarragon aioli, as the cool flavor of tarragon softens the pitch flavor of pine. But any way you present this, it is an impressive undertaking and one that is sure to have all your guests gathered around the grill to watch.



  • 1 large egg yolk




  • 1 Tbs. white wine vinegar




  • 1 clove garlic, grated on a Microplane or very finely minced




  • Leaves from 8 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped




  • Kosher salt




  • 2 cups canola oil




  • 4 to 6 pine boughs, enough to cover the grill surface




  • 4 lb. mussels, thoroughly scrubbed and debearded (discard any that won’t close)




Mix the egg yolk, vinegar, garlic, tarragon, and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Whisk to combine, then begin to add the canola oil in a slow, steady stream. Continue whisking as you add the oil and, remember, patience is the key. The sauce will thicken as you add the oil until it is a smooth mayonnaise; if it gets too thick, add a couple of drops of water to thin it out. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to serve or up to 2 days (any longer than that, and the garlic flavor gets too strong).


Place the pine boughs over a medium charcoal grill fire in which the coals have been spread out around the base grate. As soon as the pine begins to sizzle and release wisps of steam and smoke, scatter the mussels over the boughs and cover the grill. The pine will smolder and smoke, perfuming the mussels as they pop open. Uncover the grill and check them after 7 minutes. Remove the mussels that have opened, which should be most of them. Continue to cook those that haven’t opened for another 5 minutes or so. Discard any that insist on remaining closed.


Place one of the charred pine boughs on a platter and pile the mussels around it. Provide toothpicks and serve them with a bowl of the aioli.







Where There's Smoke