Rice Noodle Salad

For the dressing:

• 
  
  3 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 4 tsp. minced fresh hot green chile, such as jalapeño or serrano
  
  


• 
  
  2 small garlic cloves, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. finely grated or very finely minced fresh ginger
  
  

For the salad:

• 
  
  6 oz. medium-width rice noodles
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup shredded romaine lettuce
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh bean sprouts
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup roughly chopped or small whole fresh mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup roughly chopped or small whole fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup peeled, seeded, and diced cucumbers
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup grated carrots
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. chopped peanuts
  
  

Make the dressing:

In a small bowl, mix the lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, sugar, chile, garlic, and ginger. Taste and add more of any of the ingredients to get an assertive but tasty balance of flavors.

Make the salad:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the rice noodles and stir to disperse them. Cook until strands are opaque white and fully tender, but still resilient, 3 to 6 minutes (check the noodles often, as different brands cook at different rates).

Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them under cold water until the noodles are cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, fluffing every few minutes to make sure they stay loose.

When ready to serve, put the rice noodles in a large bowl with the lettuce, bean sprouts, mint, cilantro, cucumbers and carrots. Add the dressing to taste and toss well. Sprinkle with peanuts before serving.

Spicy Peanut Noodles with Ground Pork and Shredded Vegetables

Grated carrots, squash, and chopped mint balance the spicy heat of the jalapeños. For a milder dish, use only 1 chile and remove its seeds and ribs—they’re hotter than the flesh itself.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. dried 1/4-inch-wide rice noodles (pad thai noodles)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. lean ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup crunchy peanut butter, preferably natural
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 or 2 jalapeños, stemmed and finely chopped (seeded, if desired)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium carrots (about 6 oz.), grated
  
  


• 
  
  2 large yellow squash or zucchini (about 1 lb.), grated
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  Lime wedges, for serving
  
  

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rice noodles and cook, stirring often, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water; leave to drain in a colander.


Meanwhile, heat 2 tsp. of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pork and ½ tsp. salt and cook, stirring to break up the meat, until just cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes; set aside.


In a large bowl, whisk the peanut butter, vinegar, fish sauce, the remaining 1 tsp. oil, and 3 Tbs. warm water until smooth. Add the drained noodles, pork, jalapeños, carrots, squash, and all but 2 Tbs. of the mint and toss gently. Garnish with the remaining mint, and serve at room temperature with the lime wedges on the side.

Pork with Rice Noodles, Scallions, and Chile

A riff on larb, a vibrant ground-meat salad from Laos, this dish has sour, salty, and spicy flavors from lime juice, fish sauce, and chile, balanced by a fragrant hit of fresh mint and cilantro.

• 
  
  8 oz. wide rice (pad thai) noodles
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 medium limes)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 bunch scallions (both white and green parts), trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 small fresh green chile, such as Thai or serrano, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped peanuts
  
  

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of water to a boil and boil the noodles following the package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse with cold water.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the pork and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste, then transfer to a bowl.

Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in the skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion, scallions, and chile. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and scallions are softened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Return the pork to the skillet and toss to combine. Add the noodles and cook, tossing gently, until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, add the lime juice mixture and the herbs, and toss gently to combine. Garnish with the peanuts and serve.

Pork with Rice Noodles, Scallions, and Chile

A riff on larb, a vibrant ground-meat salad from Laos, this dish has sour, salty, and spicy flavors from lime juice, fish sauce, and chile, balanced by a fragrant hit of fresh mint and cilantro.

• 
  
  8 oz. wide rice (pad thai) noodles
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 medium limes)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 bunch scallions (both white and green parts), trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 small fresh green chile, such as Thai or serrano, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped peanuts
  
  

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of water to a boil and boil the noodles following the package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse with cold water.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the pork and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste, then transfer to a bowl.

Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in the skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion, scallions, and chile. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and scallions are softened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Return the pork to the skillet and toss to combine. Add the noodles and cook, tossing gently, until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, add the lime juice mixture and the herbs, and toss gently to combine. Garnish with the peanuts and serve.

Coconut Noodle Soup with Tea-Smoked Shrimp

Feel free to substitute other types of curry paste, such as yellow, green, or even the sweet and spiced massaman. Any cooked noodles (or pasta) can work in this recipe.
Extra: To learn more, watch a video series where Robert Danhi demonstrates his tea-smoking technique.

For the soup

• 
  
  Two 13.5- to 14-oz. cans coconut milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. red curry paste
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 stalks lemongrass, lightly smashed
  
  


• 
  
  8 (1/8-inch-thick) slices peeled fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups oyster mushrooms, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
  
  

For the tea-smoked shrimp

• 
  
  1/4 cup Thai or whole-leaf jasmine tea
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rice, preferably jasmine
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced cilantro stems
  
  

For assembly

• 
  
  8 oz. rice noodles (flat or vermicelli), soaked in room-temperature water for 30 minutes to 1 hour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 wild lime leaves, vein removed, cut into short fine threads (optional)
  
  

Make the soup

In a 4-quart pot, simmer 1/2 cup of the coconut milk over medium heat, stirring often until it reduces by half and thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Wisk in the curry paste until dissolved, about 1 minute. Add the remaining coconut milk, chicken broth, lemongrass, and ginger. Raise the heat to medium high, bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.


Strain into another 4-quart pot. Stir in the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Season to taste with more salt. Add the mushrooms and cherry tomatoes and set aside.

Smoke the shrimp

Soak thirteen 8-inch bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes.


Put the tea, rice, and sugar in the center of a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. (If using thinner foil, use 2 or 3 layers.) Fold the foil loosely to form a flat packet.


Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Clean and oil the grill grate; set aside. Set the tea-smoking packet directly on the hot coals or on top of a metal burner shield. Put the grate back on the grill and close the lid. On a charcoal grill, leave the vents partially open and wait for smoke to rise from the vents. On a gas grill, wait 10 minutes, then open the lid to check for smoke. If there is none, close the lid and check again in a few minutes.


Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry with paper towels. Thread three shrimp onto each skewer, season with salt, and sprinkle with the cilantro stems.


Arrange the shrimp skewers on the grill grate so they’re not directly over the packet, and then close the lid. Smoke the shrimp, flipping once, until just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes total. Remove the shrimp from the skewers, cut them in half lengthwise, and set aside.

Assemble the soup

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the soaked noodles and cook, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well and divide among 8 large bowls (about 1 cup of noodles in each). Reheat the soup and pour about 1-1/2 cups into each bowl, evenly distributing the mushrooms and tomatoes. Divide the shrimp among the bowls and garnish with the cilantro leaves and wild lime leaves (if using).

Soft-Shell Crab Laksa

Laksa is a traditional spicy noodle dish of Southeast Asia (especially Malaysia). It’s chile-rich and bright with lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, but has plenty of coconut milk to temper the heat. In this version with crab, it becomes a one-bowl meal.

For the crisp-fried shallots

• 
  
  1 large shallot, cut crosswise into thin rings
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup vegetable oil
  
  

For the laksa

• 
  
  6 oz. bean thread vermicelli noodles
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. (about 2) long red chiles, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro stems
  
  


• 
  
  2 lemongrass stems, white part only, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  5 (single) fresh kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground turmeric
  
  


• 
  
  Three 14-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. grated palm sugar (jaggery)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. tamarind concentrate, optional
  
  


• 
  
  6 cleaned soft shell crabs (about 3-1/2 oz. each after cleaning)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 napa cabbage, finely shredded (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. firm tofu, diced into 3/4-inch cubes
  
  

For serving

• 
  
  1 handful of bean sprouts, trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh basil leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  3 limes, halved
  
  

Fry the shallots

Put the shallots in a wide bowl, add the flour, and toss to coat, separating the rings as you go. Put them in a sieve over the bowl and shake off the excess flour.

Heat the oil in an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the shallots in batches and fry until crisp. Transfer to paper towels to drain as fried. Set aside.

Make the laksa

Soak the noodles in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes to soften.

Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, process the garlic, chiles, cilantro stems, lemongrass, and lime leaves, and turmeric with 2 Tbs. water to make a paste, or pound using a mortar and pestle.

Bring the coconut milk to a boil in a 6-quart pot over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Add the spice paste, palm sugar, and tamarind, if using, and stir well until the sugar is dissolved. Add the crab, bring back to a boil, then turn off the heat and let it sit for 5 minutes, or until the crab is just cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the crab should read 145°F).

Add the fish sauce, lime juice, cabbage, and tofu. Turn the heat back on to medium-high and cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat.

To serve

Divide the noodles and crab among four bowls, spoon over the sauce and garnish with the bean sprouts, herb leaves, and crisp-fried shallots. Serve with the lime halves.

Pork with Rice Noodles, Scallions, and Chile

A riff on larb, a vibrant ground-meat salad from Laos, this dish has sour, salty, and spicy flavors from lime juice, fish sauce, and chile, balanced by a fragrant hit of fresh mint and cilantro.

• 
  
  8 oz. wide rice (pad thai) noodles
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 medium limes)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 bunch scallions (both white and green parts), trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 to 1 small fresh green chile, such as Thai or serrano, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped peanuts
  
  

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of water to a boil and boil the noodles following the package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse with cold water.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the pork and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste, then transfer to a bowl.

Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in the skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion, scallions, and chile. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and scallions are softened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Return the pork to the skillet and toss to combine. Add the noodles and cook, tossing gently, until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, add the lime juice mixture and the herbs, and toss gently to combine. Garnish with the peanuts and serve.

Vietnamese Noodle Salad with Pork Patties (Bún Cha)

• 
  
  8 or 9 oz. rice vermicelli noodles (thin rice sticks)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup very thin carrot strips (julienne)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup very thin daikon radish or jícama strips (julienne)
  
  


• 
  
  3 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. red-wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  
  Vietnamese Dipping Sauce  (nuoc cham)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. ground pork (ask the butcher for coarsely ground pork butt)
  
  


• 
  
  5 small or 4 large scallions, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  6 large leaves romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro
  
  

Soak the rice vermicelli in a large bowl of warm water for 15 min. Meanwhile, bring about 2 quarts water and 1 tsp. kosher salt to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Drain the noodles and add them to the boiling water, stirring with chopsticks to gently separate the strands. When the water returns to a boil (after about 2 min.), drain the noodles in a colander (push the strands against the sides of the colander with chopsticks to help them drain completely). Put the noodles on a platter and fluff them with chopsticks. Set aside until cool, at least 30 min. and up to 2 hours.

Put the carrots and daikon or jícama in a colander. Sprinkle on 1 tsp. of the sugar, the vinegar, and 1/4 tsp. kosher salt and mix well. Let the colander sit in the sink for 10 min., and then gently squeeze the vegetables to get rid of the liquid. Add the vegetables to the bowl of dipping sauce.

Put the pork in a bowl. Add the scallions, the remaining 2 tsp. sugar, the fish sauce, 1/8 tsp. kosher salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper and mix gently with your hands. Shape the meat into small patties about 2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick; you should have ten patties.

Grill the patties over a medium- hot gas or charcoal grill, (or in an oiled grill pan or skillet over medium-high heat) until they’re well browned outside and cooked through but still moist inside, 8 to 10 min. on a grill; 15 min. on a grill pan (cut into one to check—it’s fine if the pork is still a little pink inside). Add the cooked patties, still warm, to the bowl of sauce and vegetables and let sit for 5 to 10 min. before serving.

Serve the noodles on the platter, along with the lettuce, mint, and cilantro. Remove the pork patties from the sauce and put them on a different platter. Give everyone a large bowl and let people serve themselves noodles, lettuce, and herbs, then top that with pork patties and a generous drizzle of the dipping sauce and the vegetables in it. Toss gently.

Ginger-Sesame-Tofu Summer Rolls

These vegetarian rolls make the perfect starter for a Vietnamese or Thai dinner. Use the firmest tofu you can find for this recipe and handle it carefully, as even firm tofu can break fairly easily. Serve with Pineapple-Lime Dipping Sauce.

For the tofu filling:

• 
  
  14 oz. firm tofu
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  

For the rolls:

• 
  
  6-1/2 oz. thin dried rice noodles
  
  


• 
  
  16 large round rice paper wrappers (about 8 inches in diameter); plus a few extra in case of breakage
  
  


• 
  
  20 leaves bibb or Boston lettuce, cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips (to yield about 5 cups loosely packed strips)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup packed fresh mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup packed fresh cilantro or basil leaves, or a mix
  
  


• 
  
  4 scallions, trimmed, cut into 4-inch-long pieces, and sliced lengthwise into thin strips
  
  

Make the Filling:

Lay the block of tofu flat on a cutting board and slice it lengthwise into four even pieces. Flip each piece onto its wide side and slice again into four even pieces to get a total of 16 long (about 4-1/2-inch) rectangular strips. Lay the tofu strips on a paper towel and pat them dry. In a small (about 11x7-inch) baking dish, combine the soy sauce, ginger, sugar, sesame oil, and salt. Stir until the sugar and salt dissolve. Add the tofu strips and carefully turn them until they’re evenly coated with the marinade. Let the tofu stand at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, turning once. (Or marinate the tofu for up to 2 hours, covered, in the refrigerator.)

Gently transfer the tofu from the marinade to a platter, brushing off any ginger clinging to it. Blot the tofu dry with paper towels. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Carefully add half of the tofu strips. Cook until nicely browned on one side, 1 to 2 min., and then gently turn with a spatula to brown the opposite side, another 1 to 2 minutes. Return the cooked tofu to the platter and cook the remaining tofu in the same manner. Let the tofu cool to room temperature or refrigerate, covered, until ready to roll.

Assemble the Rolls:

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Drop in the rice noodles. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand for 8 to 10 minutes, gently lifting and stirring the noodles now and then as they soften, to cook them evenly and to keep them from clumping. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them with cold water to stop the cooking. You should have about 4 cups cooked noodles.

Arrange the noodles, rice paper wrappers, lettuce, herbs, scallions, and cooled tofu around a large cutting board or tray set before you. Have a platter nearby for the finished rolls.

Fill a large skillet halfway with very warm water. Slide a sheet of rice paper into the water and press gently to submerge it until it becomes very pliable, 15 to 30 seconds. Remove the rice paper carefully, shaking gently to help excess water drain off, and lay it before you on a cutting board or tray. (If the water becomes too cool to soften the paper, reheat it briefly on the stove.)

Starting on the lowest third of the wrapper and working away from you, line up a narrow tangle of noodles (about 1/4 cup), a row of lettuce strips (about 1/4 cup), 5 to 7 good-size mint leaves, a row of cilantro or basil leaves, and a row of scallion strips. Leave about 1 inch of empty space along the wrapper's bottom and side edges.

Starting from the edge closest to you, roll the wrapper up and over the fillings. Stop after the first turn to tuck and compress everything snugly into the wrapper. Once the first turn is good and tight, fold the right and left sides of the wrapper in onto the roll, closing off the ends, as though making an envelope.

Just above the cylinder you've already rolled, lay one strip of tofu. Roll the wrapper tightly, all the way to the top, and press the seam closed. If the wrapper is too dry to stick, dip your finger in the water and run it along the paper to moisten and then press the seam closed. Set the roll, seam side down, on the platter. Continue to fill and roll up the rice paper sheets until you've made 16 rolls. (Don't let the finished rolls touch one another or they'll stick.) Serve immediately (or drape a damp dishtowel over the rolls, wrap the platter tightly in plastic, and serve within two hours.)

Phat Si Ew (Stir-Fried Rice Noodles with Pork, Chinese Broccoli & Soy Sauce)

A quick cook in a screaming-hot wok—what I now recognize to be the Chinese stir-fry technique—is the key to achieving the smoky, charred flavor common to the best versions of the dish. The recipe serves one; to make more, double or quadruple the ingredients, but cook each batch separately.

For the pork

• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small clove peeled garlic, lightly crushed into small pieces in a mortar
  
  


• 
  
  Scant
  4 oz. boneless pork loin or lean shoulder, thinly sliced against the
  grain into bite-size (approximately 1/8-inch-thick) strips
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. Thai fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  

For the noodles

• 
  
  6 oz. fresh wide (about 1-1/2-inch), flat rice noodles
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Thai thin soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. Thai black soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Small pinch ground white pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Naam Man Krathiem (Fried-garlic oil) or Naam Man Hom Daeng (Fried-shallot oil)
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  11 grams peeled garlic cloves, halved lengthwise and lightly crushed into small pieces in a mortar (about 1 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  2
  oz. baby Chinese broccoli, stems trimmed to 1 or 2 inches and clusters
  separated, or regular Chinese broccoli, leaves coarsely chopped and
  stems thinly sliced
  
  

Tip:

The ideal Chinese broccoli for phat si ew is the young, thin-stemmed kind that’s sometimes called gai lan miew (essentially, “little Chinese broccoli”) or gai lan “tips” and occasionally labeled choy sum. (The term choy sum essentially means “small shoots” and is used to refer to many different vegetables in their young form.) If you can’t find this type, you can make do with the thick-stemmed version.

Cook the pork

Heat a wok over very high heat, add the oil, and swirl it in the wok to coat the sides. When it begins to smoke lightly, add the garlic, take the wok off the heat, and let the garlic sizzle, stirring often, until it’s fragrant but not colored, about 15 seconds.

Put the wok back on the heat, add the pork, and stir well. Then add the fish sauce and sugar and stir-fry (constantly stirring, scooping, and flipping the ingredients) until the pork is just cooked through, about 1 minute. Transfer the pork to a bowl. You can cover and refrigerate it for up to 2 days.

Prepare the noodles

Carefully separate the noodles. Unless you’ve found freshly made noodles, either microwave them briefly or briefly dunk them in boiling water (for a few seconds) just until they’re pliable enough to separate without crumbling. Drain them well before proceeding.

Stir-fry and serve the dish

Combine the thin and black soy sauces, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl and stir well.

Wipe out the wok, if necessary, then heat it over very high heat, add the garlic oil, and swirl it in the wok to coat the sides. When the oil begins to smoke lightly, crack in the egg. It should spit and sizzle violently and the whites should bubble and puff. Cook without messing with it until the egg turns light golden brown at the edges, about 30 seconds. Flip the egg (it’s fine if the yolk breaks), push it to one side of the wok (up the wall of the wok is fine).

Add the noodles and cook for 15 seconds or so, prodding and stirring them lightly them so they spread out a bit and don’t clump together. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds or so, stirring to mix and to break up the noodles and egg slightly. Add the Chinese broccoli and stir-fry (constantly stirring, scooping, and flipping the ingredients) until the leaves just begin to wilt, about 15 seconds.

Add the pork, then the soy sauce mixture (add a splash of water, if necessary, to make sure nothing’s left behind in the bowl), and stir-fry, letting the egg break up as you do, until the pork is heated through and the noodles have had a chance to absorb the liquids, about 1 minute. Transfer it to a plate and season to taste with the fish sauce, sugar, vinegar-soaked chiles, and chile powder.

Rice Noodles with Shrimp and Cilantro

This colorful variation on pad Thai skips the bean sprouts, eggs, and peanuts in favor of fresh red bell pepper and cilantro.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. 1/4-inch-wide dried rice noodles (pad thai)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium limes, 1 juiced and 1 cut into wedges
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. peeled and deveined large shrimp (31 to 40 per lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium jalapeño, seeded and finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1 large shallot, finely diced
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  

Bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the noodles, lower the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles are just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a colander and run under cold water to cool slightly. Drain well.


In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, sugar, soy sauce, and fish sauce; set aside.


In a medium bowl, toss the shrimp with 1 Tbs. of the oil, the coriander, 1/2 tsp. pepper, and 1/4 tsp. salt.


Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the red pepper, jalapeño, and shallot, sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, until it turns pink and is almost cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add the lime juice mixture and cook, stirring, until the shrimp is cooked through, about 1 minute more. Add the noodles and half of the cilantro; toss until the noodles heat through and pick up the sauce, 1 to 2 minutes.


Serve sprinkled with the remaining cilantro, with the lime wedges on the side for squeezing.

Soft-Shell Crab Laksa

Laksa is a traditional spicy noodle dish of Southeast Asia (especially Malaysia). It’s chile-rich and bright with lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, but has plenty of coconut milk to temper the heat. In this version with crab, it becomes a one-bowl meal.

For the crisp-fried shallots

• 
  
  1 large shallot, cut crosswise into thin rings
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup vegetable oil
  
  

For the laksa

• 
  
  6 oz. bean thread vermicelli noodles
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. (about 2) long red chiles, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro stems
  
  


• 
  
  2 lemongrass stems, white part only, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  5 (single) fresh kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. ground turmeric
  
  


• 
  
  Three 14-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. grated palm sugar (jaggery)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. tamarind concentrate, optional
  
  


• 
  
  6 cleaned soft shell crabs (about 3-1/2 oz. each after cleaning)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 napa cabbage, finely shredded (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. firm tofu, diced into 3/4-inch cubes
  
  

For serving

• 
  
  1 handful of bean sprouts, trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh basil leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh mint leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  3 limes, halved
  
  

Fry the shallots

Put the shallots in a wide bowl, add the flour, and toss to coat, separating the rings as you go. Put them in a sieve over the bowl and shake off the excess flour.

Heat the oil in an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the shallots in batches and fry until crisp. Transfer to paper towels to drain as fried. Set aside.

Make the laksa

Soak the noodles in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes to soften.

Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, process the garlic, chiles, cilantro stems, lemongrass, and lime leaves, and turmeric with 2 Tbs. water to make a paste, or pound using a mortar and pestle.

Bring the coconut milk to a boil in a 6-quart pot over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Add the spice paste, palm sugar, and tamarind, if using, and stir well until the sugar is dissolved. Add the crab, bring back to a boil, then turn off the heat and let it sit for 5 minutes, or until the crab is just cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the crab should read 145°F).

Add the fish sauce, lime juice, cabbage, and tofu. Turn the heat back on to medium-high and cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat.

To serve

Divide the noodles and crab among four bowls, spoon over the sauce and garnish with the bean sprouts, herb leaves, and crisp-fried shallots. Serve with the lime halves.

Coconut Noodle Soup with Tea-Smoked Shrimp

Feel free to substitute other types of curry paste, such as yellow, green, or even the sweet and spiced massaman. Any cooked noodles (or pasta) can work in this recipe.
Extra: To learn more, watch a video series where Robert Danhi demonstrates his tea-smoking technique.

For the soup

• 
  
  Two 13.5- to 14-oz. cans coconut milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. red curry paste
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 stalks lemongrass, lightly smashed
  
  


• 
  
  8 (1/8-inch-thick) slices peeled fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups oyster mushrooms, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
  
  

For the tea-smoked shrimp

• 
  
  1/4 cup Thai or whole-leaf jasmine tea
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup rice, preferably jasmine
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced cilantro stems
  
  

For assembly

• 
  
  8 oz. rice noodles (flat or vermicelli), soaked in room-temperature water for 30 minutes to 1 hour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 wild lime leaves, vein removed, cut into short fine threads (optional)
  
  

Make the soup

In a 4-quart pot, simmer 1/2 cup of the coconut milk over medium heat, stirring often until it reduces by half and thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Wisk in the curry paste until dissolved, about 1 minute. Add the remaining coconut milk, chicken broth, lemongrass, and ginger. Raise the heat to medium high, bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.


Strain into another 4-quart pot. Stir in the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Season to taste with more salt. Add the mushrooms and cherry tomatoes and set aside.

Smoke the shrimp

Soak thirteen 8-inch bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes.


Put the tea, rice, and sugar in the center of a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. (If using thinner foil, use 2 or 3 layers.) Fold the foil loosely to form a flat packet.


Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Clean and oil the grill grate; set aside. Set the tea-smoking packet directly on the hot coals or on top of a metal burner shield. Put the grate back on the grill and close the lid. On a charcoal grill, leave the vents partially open and wait for smoke to rise from the vents. On a gas grill, wait 10 minutes, then open the lid to check for smoke. If there is none, close the lid and check again in a few minutes.


Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry with paper towels. Thread three shrimp onto each skewer, season with salt, and sprinkle with the cilantro stems.


Arrange the shrimp skewers on the grill grate so they’re not directly over the packet, and then close the lid. Smoke the shrimp, flipping once, until just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes total. Remove the shrimp from the skewers, cut them in half lengthwise, and set aside.

Assemble the soup

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the soaked noodles and cook, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well and divide among 8 large bowls (about 1 cup of noodles in each). Reheat the soup and pour about 1-1/2 cups into each bowl, evenly distributing the mushrooms and tomatoes. Divide the shrimp among the bowls and garnish with the cilantro leaves and wild lime leaves (if using).

Phat Si Ew (Stir-Fried Rice Noodles with Pork, Chinese Broccoli & Soy Sauce)

A quick cook in a screaming-hot wok—what I now recognize to be the Chinese stir-fry technique—is the key to achieving the smoky, charred flavor common to the best versions of the dish. The recipe serves one; to make more, double or quadruple the ingredients, but cook each batch separately.

For the pork

• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small clove peeled garlic, lightly crushed into small pieces in a mortar
  
  


• 
  
  Scant
  4 oz. boneless pork loin or lean shoulder, thinly sliced against the
  grain into bite-size (approximately 1/8-inch-thick) strips
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. Thai fish sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  

For the noodles

• 
  
  6 oz. fresh wide (about 1-1/2-inch), flat rice noodles
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Thai thin soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. Thai black soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Small pinch ground white pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Naam Man Krathiem (Fried-garlic oil) or Naam Man Hom Daeng (Fried-shallot oil)
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  11 grams peeled garlic cloves, halved lengthwise and lightly crushed into small pieces in a mortar (about 1 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  2
  oz. baby Chinese broccoli, stems trimmed to 1 or 2 inches and clusters
  separated, or regular Chinese broccoli, leaves coarsely chopped and
  stems thinly sliced
  
  

Tip:

The ideal Chinese broccoli for phat si ew is the young, thin-stemmed kind that’s sometimes called gai lan miew (essentially, “little Chinese broccoli”) or gai lan “tips” and occasionally labeled choy sum. (The term choy sum essentially means “small shoots” and is used to refer to many different vegetables in their young form.) If you can’t find this type, you can make do with the thick-stemmed version.

Cook the pork

Heat a wok over very high heat, add the oil, and swirl it in the wok to coat the sides. When it begins to smoke lightly, add the garlic, take the wok off the heat, and let the garlic sizzle, stirring often, until it’s fragrant but not colored, about 15 seconds.

Put the wok back on the heat, add the pork, and stir well. Then add the fish sauce and sugar and stir-fry (constantly stirring, scooping, and flipping the ingredients) until the pork is just cooked through, about 1 minute. Transfer the pork to a bowl. You can cover and refrigerate it for up to 2 days.

Prepare the noodles

Carefully separate the noodles. Unless you’ve found freshly made noodles, either microwave them briefly or briefly dunk them in boiling water (for a few seconds) just until they’re pliable enough to separate without crumbling. Drain them well before proceeding.

Stir-fry and serve the dish

Combine the thin and black soy sauces, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl and stir well.

Wipe out the wok, if necessary, then heat it over very high heat, add the garlic oil, and swirl it in the wok to coat the sides. When the oil begins to smoke lightly, crack in the egg. It should spit and sizzle violently and the whites should bubble and puff. Cook without messing with it until the egg turns light golden brown at the edges, about 30 seconds. Flip the egg (it’s fine if the yolk breaks), push it to one side of the wok (up the wall of the wok is fine).

Add the noodles and cook for 15 seconds or so, prodding and stirring them lightly them so they spread out a bit and don’t clump together. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds or so, stirring to mix and to break up the noodles and egg slightly. Add the Chinese broccoli and stir-fry (constantly stirring, scooping, and flipping the ingredients) until the leaves just begin to wilt, about 15 seconds.

Add the pork, then the soy sauce mixture (add a splash of water, if necessary, to make sure nothing’s left behind in the bowl), and stir-fry, letting the egg break up as you do, until the pork is heated through and the noodles have had a chance to absorb the liquids, about 1 minute. Transfer it to a plate and season to taste with the fish sauce, sugar, vinegar-soaked chiles, and chile powder.