Wild Mushroom Ragoût

I like to keep a batch of this tasty little ragoût on hand because it’s great as a side dish, garnish, or mix-in.

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  1 oz. mixed dried mushrooms (like chanterelles, porcini, morels, and oyster; about 1-1/4 cups)
  
  


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  1/2 oz. dried shiitakes (1/3 cup; 5 medium caps)
  
  


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  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


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  2 large shallots, minced (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


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  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


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  2 Tbs. Cognac or brandy
  
  


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  1 Tbs. soy sauce
  
  


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  1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


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  1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
  
  


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  1 Tbs. heavy cream or unsalted butter
  
  


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  Fresh lemon juice to taste (optional)
  
  

Put the mushrooms in a medium heatproof bowl. Pour in 2 cups boiling water and weight down the mushrooms with a small plate so they are submerged. Soak until they're plumped and softened, about 20 min. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board, squeezing any excess liquid from the mushrooms back into the soaking liquid. Let cool. Remove and discard any tough stems. Coarsely chop the mushrooms. Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or paper towel set in a sieve and reserve.

Heat the butter in a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until it melts and begins to foam. Add the shallots, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring, until they soften and become translucent, 2 to 3 min. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to brown in places, about 5 min. Add the Cognac or brandy and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add all of the mushroom soaking liquid, the soy sauce, and thyme and cook until the liquid reduces by about half, 5 to 7 min.

If using right away, stir in the chives and cream (or butter). Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, if using.