Peas with Lemon, Mint, and Scallions

Fresh peas should not really be available year-round at the grocery store, as they don’t store well. We should all enjoy them in late spring and early summer when we see them at the farmers’ market, or we should grow our own, because they’re sweet, tender, and delicious. If you do see fresh peas at the grocery store, they will definitely be fresher if they are still in the shell. The rest of the year, you shouldn’t think twice about using frozen peas.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. shelled fresh peas (about 2 cups) or frozen peas (about 1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  4 large scallions (white and light green parts), thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. packed finely grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

If using fresh peas: Fill a large saucepan half full with water and 2 tsp kosher salt and bring to a boil. Drop the peas into the boiling water and cook until just tender (taste one or two), 2 minutes for smaller peas, 3 minutes for larger, older peas. Begin timing immediately; don’t wait for the water to return to a boil. Use a mesh strainer to transfer the peas to a dish towel or a few layers of paper towels to drain. Discard the water the peas were boiled in, but reserve the pot.

If using frozen peas: Put them in a colander and run cold water over them for a few minutes until they’re mostly thawed. Spread them out on a few layers of dish towels to drain

Melt the butter in the reserved saucepan over low heat. Add the scallions and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the heavy cream, half of the mint, the lemon zest, 1/4 tsp of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until it thickens slightly and a wooden spoon leaves a wide path when scraped across the bottom of the pan, about 1 minute. Add the peas and stir until they’re heated through and well coated with the sauce, 1 minute more. Remove the pan from the heat, taste for salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnished with the remaining mint.